Front Wheel bearing issues

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 4:39 pm

Have been told by some that I can also look forward to replacing front wheel bearings pretty often (compared to other vehicles) Any truth to this rumor ???

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:17 pm

Probably more often than rear wheel bearings, but nothing to lose sleep over.

They are a caged double ball bearing design. Tapered roller bearings are a better design and last longer. Nothing we can do about the design. I would guess that the width limitations may have had something to do with it?
I have seen the fullsize with the same style bearings go 150k+ miles and I am sure that there are S-series with the same results. My old S-10 has over 170k miles on one wheel bearing. I have close to 65k miles on one of mine now.
Roll the dice and see what you get.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:56 pm

HenryJ wrote:........Roll the dice and see what you get.

X2!

Have been a member of several forums for a couple of yrs. Have been told that some tire, wheel and spacers have destroyed many front ends. I am still happily rolling on my stock components but, will accept repairs when they become needed.

Hog18Jags · Post by **Hog18Jags** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 5:10 am

I just changed my first one this past weekend on the right side.....wasn't too difficult once I found the right tools I needed. The next one will go easier now that I know what to do. My truck has 81,000 miles on it.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 6:47 am

If you do end up having to replace your bearings... let me know:

S10 Bearings at SO

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:14 am

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:........Roll the dice and see what you get.
X2!

Have been told that some tire, wheel and spacers have destroyed many front ends. I am still happily rolling on my stock components but, will accept repairs when they become needed.

X3 At 82K right now with no bearing issues. Yes, I replaced a wheel bearing not too long ago on the CC, but it turned out I actually didn't need it. The problem was the tire had cupped and needed re-balanced, so I wasted $140.

Anybody need a "slightly" used wheel bearing???

j/k I still got the original in the bed of my truck.

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:55 pm

Thanks guys. Hey Hog18Jags, what kind of tools would I need ? anything expensive ? I need an excuse to go to the snap on truck again anyway lol

Hog18Jags · Post by **Hog18Jags** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 7:43 am

You need a 36mm deep socket for the nut on the axle with a break-over bar. I also used a 18mm socket to get the bolts off for the capilar and the 3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing on. You will also need a 13mm socket and wrench, a 10 mm socket for the bolts that hold the ABS cable on. Some people may have used a gear puller to get the bearing out. I didn't have one so I used a small hammer. I also used a crowbar to hold the hub while removing the axle nut. Someone please feel free to add anything else I may have missed. Thanks.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 8:07 am

It's a lot easier to take the nut off by doing it before you pull the brakes off. Just put a brass drift or an allen key through the caliper into the vents on the rotor, which will hold the rotor in place while you pull the nut off.

Hog18Jags · Post by **Hog18Jags** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:49 pm

That's a good idea. I just placed the crowbar between 2 studs and braced it on the shop floor, but I like your idea better. I will have to remember that next time. Thanks.

Jigg · Post by **Jigg** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:06 pm

yeah, i tried it the way you did it... except i used a tire iron. Figured there had to be an easier way, so i checked the Chilton's manual.... they suggested the caliper trick.

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:38 pm

Thanks to all, I have most of the tools listed, just not the 36 mm socket. Now just have to wait till warmer weather (no garage yet)

mudtaxi · Post by **mudtaxi** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 11:30 am

is the axle nut left handed tread cuz i can not break it lose

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:53 pm

Not on mine. Just really tight. Factory torque is something like 180ft lbs. First time I took mine off after buying a 36mm deep socket I used a 3/4 inch T-handle breaker bar and cheater pipe to loosen with the truck sitting on the ground and wheels on in park.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:56 pm

I would suggest having a friend step on the brake pedal while you put torque to the nut. Or a bar braced between the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning. That is the way I did mine. Stressing the drivetrain and risk of rolling the vehicle would be my conserns.