Front Wheel bearing issues
Moderator: F9K9
Front Wheel bearing issues
Have been told by some that I can also look forward to replacing front wheel bearings pretty often (compared to other vehicles) Any truth to this rumor ???
- HenryJ
- Admin K Elite
- Posts: 12705
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
- Contact:
Probably more often than rear wheel bearings, but nothing to lose sleep over.
They are a caged double ball bearing design. Tapered roller bearings are a better design and last longer. Nothing we can do about the design. I would guess that the width limitations may have had something to do with it?
I have seen the fullsize with the same style bearings go 150k+ miles and I am sure that there are S-series with the same results. My old S-10 has over 170k miles on one wheel bearing. I have close to 65k miles on one of mine now.
Roll the dice and see what you get.
They are a caged double ball bearing design. Tapered roller bearings are a better design and last longer. Nothing we can do about the design. I would guess that the width limitations may have had something to do with it?
I have seen the fullsize with the same style bearings go 150k+ miles and I am sure that there are S-series with the same results. My old S-10 has over 170k miles on one wheel bearing. I have close to 65k miles on one of mine now.
Roll the dice and see what you get.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- F9K9
- Mod K Elite
- Posts: 6183
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2004 12:26 pm
- Location: London, Kentucky, United States
X2!HenryJ wrote:........Roll the dice and see what you get.
Have been a member of several forums for a couple of yrs. Have been told that some tire, wheel and spacers have destroyed many front ends. I am still happily rolling on my stock components but, will accept repairs when they become needed.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
[b]"Those who don't know history are destined to repeat it." Edmund Burke[/b][/size]
- WVHogRider
- Crew Elite
- Posts: 415
- Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2006 9:09 am
- Location: Wheeling, WV
X3 At 82K right now with no bearing issues. Yes, I replaced a wheel bearing not too long ago on the CC, but it turned out I actually didn't need it. The problem was the tire had cupped and needed re-balanced, so I wasted $140. Anybody need a "slightly" used wheel bearing??? j/k I still got the original in the bed of my truck.f9k9 wrote:X2!HenryJ wrote:........Roll the dice and see what you get.
Have been told that some tire, wheel and spacers have destroyed many front ends. I am still happily rolling on my stock components but, will accept repairs when they become needed.
[size=75]'01 CC w/ a bunch of Mods. More always on the way.
Realization...All women need medication...Just find one on the right medication & make sure she stays on it!!!![/size]
Realization...All women need medication...Just find one on the right medication & make sure she stays on it!!!![/size]
You need a 36mm deep socket for the nut on the axle with a break-over bar. I also used a 18mm socket to get the bolts off for the capilar and the 3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing on. You will also need a 13mm socket and wrench, a 10 mm socket for the bolts that hold the ABS cable on. Some people may have used a gear puller to get the bearing out. I didn't have one so I used a small hammer. I also used a crowbar to hold the hub while removing the axle nut. Someone please feel free to add anything else I may have missed. Thanks.
It's a lot easier to take the nut off by doing it before you pull the brakes off. Just put a brass drift or an allen key through the caliper into the vents on the rotor, which will hold the rotor in place while you pull the nut off.
[size=75][url=http://www.synergyoffroad.com]Synergy Offroad[/url][/size]
- roadrunner
- Crew K Elite
- Posts: 1267
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:39 pm
- Location: NW KS
Not on mine. Just really tight. Factory torque is something like 180ft lbs. First time I took mine off after buying a 36mm deep socket I used a 3/4 inch T-handle breaker bar and cheater pipe to loosen with the truck sitting on the ground and wheels on in park.
2001 CC LS, pewter, stock, 4.3,Wait4meperformance, CFM throttle blade, Helix throttle body spacer, 4spd auto, 3button electric 4x4 shift, heavy duty factory suspension, Bilsteins, 1" rear wheel spacers, skid plates.
- HenryJ
- Admin K Elite
- Posts: 12705
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
- Contact:
I would suggest having a friend step on the brake pedal while you put torque to the nut. Or a bar braced between the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning. That is the way I did mine. Stressing the drivetrain and risk of rolling the vehicle would be my conserns.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK