_STUCKY's junk

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:11 pm

Good luck! Mine pushed a 2500 class GMC 12 passenger van out of a snow plow pile from a side street in Queens. Back two years ago when we had the really bad snow storm out here and they blew the plowing budget. It was a one way street, the right turn was blocked by a stuck tractor trailer and the left turn was blocked by the van. I put it in 4 low told him to keep his wheel straight and the van popped right out. Of course my bumper and right fender were never the same after that which is why they got replaced but now I will be getting a good pushbar for these types of situations. Until that happens, my truck is self propelling only, no helper service. LOL

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Mar 09, 2013 8:13 pm

I got skid plates, with brackets! Not too sure if the gas tank skid is gonna work. Payed $80 for the full set, which is $5 less each than the junkyard wanted. Also, I picked up an explorer front driveshaft for my jeep. I'll need one for when I finally get the sye in the np231 and the 8.8 in the back. I paid $30 for the driveshaft. My buddy also got a driveshaft, a throttle cable, and some lil plastic interior piece for his old body style s10, all for $50. Fair prices, but not as cheap as I was hoping to get out of there for.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:10 pm

I got a little done to the truck today

I may have been motivated by a picture I saw yesterday.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:14 pm

_STUCKY wrote: I may have been motivated by a picture I saw yesterday.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 5:46 pm

I'm going to drive around for about a week to see if the intake has any effect, by itself, on fuel mileage. I got the ball rolling today on the exhaust. I have a buddy who has been doing some side work at a local fab/hot rod/ basically anything automotive shop. I've heard through the grapevine from several people that the owner is the guy to go to for custom exhaust. Hopefully, sometime early next week they can get me in. I will not be getting mandrel bends, although that would be nice. I just can't find a shop around here that has one. I have heard tale of a shop that does, but no one can give me a name or anything, so non mandrel bends it is.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:47 pm

I held off on doing the exhaust because I am not sure what it will be worth when/if the truck is converted to a v8? So far the new air box and K&N really screams. I am satisfied. the truck really has some more pull and way better throttle response. Its got a nice angry growl to it as well. Hopefully i can keep my foot off the pedal and see how the MPGs are over the next few weeks.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:12 pm

Hey, that reminds me! Check out this:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/11 ... oject.html

By no means does that go into much detail about how to do it, but it does show that it can be done.

However, I see 4.3s on Craigslist almost every day in the $200-500 range. I would think that whatever is wrong with yours could be remedied. Are you sure it's not a computer issue? Before i bought my yj, it sat for about a year with a terrible misfire. It would run on 3 cylinders, poorly. No power. The owner replaced the computer with a supposedly good one, but it started misfiring on a different cylinder. I bought it, took it to my mechanic, he replaced the computer and all is well. It sounds great bouncing off the rev limiter. It spins the tires just fine now.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 7:49 pm

It is possible, with the AC on in the summer for the week it was super hot and I drove it last summer, the CEL went off and it ran a little better. However, I hate AC and I dont use it so I have yet to hold that theroy together and take it to inspection lol. Wouldnt I need a ECU that matches a BCU though? Then it would have to be from a crew cab or programmed for my crew cab?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:18 pm

I do not know. I am still new to these truck. And honestly, I'm not much of a motor guy. All I know is whatever your truck does can be fixed. It could also have a motor swapped in.

But I think you could get an AC delete pulley and exnay all the AC stuff. It might give the illusion of putting the horses on steriods? I haven't had a functioning AC for years though, so mine stays. I'm not recommending this, just saying lol

But yea, people have been swapping motors around and making them work in different applications since the beginning of time. AVTekk seems pretty knowledgeable about the subject. I am gonna go do some reading...

Edit lol:

"I kinda had the idea of taking the entire powertrain and front suspension out of a Buick Regal GS with the supercharged 3.8 and sticking it in the bed. Then I realized, that would sort of render the bed useless, which is the point of owning a truck.

Then I thought of putting an I-6 from a Trailblazer in it, and then I realized that the thought of spending $4000 or more on a $500 truck is ridiculous.

So I will probably just keep the 2.8 in it and gripe about the power until I can trade up."

Bingo:
http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/index.php?showtopic=32282

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Mar 12, 2013 9:00 pm

Having a hard time loading any websites at work right now. I wouldnt want to delete the AC, it seems with it ON thats the only way the truck has NO check engine light LOL. I still have a good working system so I would like to keep it if possible, being its leather seating, its kinda mandatory to have AC in the summer.

I have been meaning to get with AVTekk to talk more about this whole motor swap mess but work has really had me swamped down the past 3 weeks.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:53 am

My brother sent me this.

Yesterday, I was sent out into one of our fields with a catapiller tracked tractor. It was very muddy. Tracked tractors and mud do not mix very well. What I was pulling drags the ground and you can't back it up. If you fold up the implement, all the weight goes on the tires and it sinks. Basically, once I hit the mud, I had no control and could only sit there and hang on and see where it took me. I ended up with the tractor bottomed out to the frame, in the neighbor's field. No one was impressed.

The recovery effect included another catapiller tracked tractor and a ginourmas chain. Since my truck is the lightest and best suited candidate to haul a chain out there, that's what I did. All went well. But, after getting the tractor out, I kept driving it in the field towards our shop, and wouldn't you know it, I sank again.

This picture was taken right after taking the chain out the second time. Roaster tails were flying. I really thought that it was actually going to need pulled, but I put it in 4 hi 1st gear pedal to the metal and out it came.

I'm yet to get it stuck and need a pull from someone.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:28 pm

Good show. I have had mine stuck twice, though only in snow, never had to get pulled out but there was plenty of shoveling and pushing.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Mar 16, 2013 2:15 pm

_STUCKY wrote:........................I'm yet to get it stuck and need a pull from someone.

Not a smart comment and one you'll live to regret. Better button up your aerial defenses ASAP!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Mar 19, 2013 8:09 am

F9K9 wrote:Not a smart comment and one you'll live to regret. Better button up your aerial defenses ASAP!

I try not to abuse it too awfully bad

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:20 pm

I aired the tires up on the Comanche today. I might try to find out why they leak....

I also put a battery and some tranny fluid in the 91 K5. I want to drive it again....

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:43 am

HJ, I'm curious if you think the dual headlight relay deal would work on my 91 K5. I've had no luck researching this. Best thing I found was a thread where the guy was putting in HIDs (I think) and he had a 2 relay plug and play setup, which of course I can't find anywhere online. I would like to wire it up myself instead of using a kit. After driving the ol' junker for a couple days, brighter headlights are high on the to do list. Driving my s10, compared to the K5, in terms of luxury, that thing is a palace, where as the K5 is like living in an old refrigerator box.

Monday night was spent cutting fenders on the K5. It has basically just sat for a year. In that time I had moved from stock aluminum wheels to a set of used mickey Thompson classic IIs. This put my tires in a different position, causing some major interference with the sheet metal. Nothing a sawzall wouldn't fix. We peeled most of the trim off at the same time. I am seriously considering pulling the carpet and doing some roll on bed liner along with a major gutting of the inside. The thing makes so many noises.

On another note, I think I am going to do a slight tune up on the Comanche and take it to Attica for Memorial Day weekend. It has an idle issue that needs addressed, and the fenders need hacked more. But overall, that truck is a perfect trail rig.

Oh yea, is there any info on Thunder I? If not would you put some info and pictures up, please?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:30 pm

You can do the all four on high mod to it , but it will require using a relay to keep the lows on with the highs. I think Painless made a kit do do just that? Should be easy to do. Just running some heavier wire and running relays will improve things quite a bit. The stock wiring is pretty small and they don't end up getting full voltage through the stock system.

Thunder resides up the hill from my work. A retired Vet bought it and loves it. Thunder Chevy

Thunder II

Never saw ThunderII again...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:42 pm

Oooooh I thought Thunder I was a full size Chevy. So you didn't get as in depth with it as you did on Thunder II? Still a pretty good looking truck though. I have always liked the box style s10s, especially, for some reason, the later ones with the shelf under the dash. Around here, they always seem to have rusted out bodies and the front of the frame around the sway bar mounts. A clean body is rare around here for those.

I'll do some more reading on the headlights in the K5.

As far as me planning to take the Comanche to attica, that plan has changed. I cleaned the throttle body today and took it for a spin in the cow pasture. I promptly slid sideways into a tree at low speed and busted the passenger side window and was stuck. In the attempts to unstuck it, the 4.0 was revved to high rpms. Strange noises started happening, like death rattles. I ended up winching out with the other jeep. I think it would be a wise choice to just keep it within a mile or so of home.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:08 pm

My old 3/4T '73 Chevy came before those. 400 BB jump truck

I watched way too much "Fall Guy".

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:57 pm

How did the Dana 44 hold up?

Jumping the 87 K5 over dry dams resulted in a busted ujoint, but as far as I could tell that was it. That truck had a limited lifespan anyways.

I believe ~78 was the first year of Dana 60s in the 1 tons. That is also about the same time they switched from the Dana 44 fronts to the 10 bolts in the 1/2-3/4 tons. No 1/2-3/4 ton ever got a Dana 60 from the factory. All 1/2 fronts are the same as 3/4 fronts with the exception of the brakes and bolt pattern. There is no "Dana 44 HD", the 3/4 ton trucks have the same axle as 1/2 ton trucks. All 4x4 73-87(91) front axles have the same mounting points. All 4x4 1/2-3/4 ton trucks have the same rear axle spring perch widths. And while I'm at it, 87 is the first year of TBI (on trucks at least), but 87 ONLY has v belts. 88+ has a serpentine belt.

So with all that, it would be very simple to build a 1/2 ton truck. Find a Dana 60 from a 1 ton 4x4, find a 3/4 ton full float 14 bolt, make sure the gears match before you buy them, and bolt them in. Of course there is always driveshafts, brakes, steering, wheels, ect ect.

Now if only I could rattle that stuff off about s10s, it might help someone here.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:58 am

_STUCKY wrote:How did the Dana 44 hold up?

Great. I did drop the exhaust system after a long jump. I hit the dune at around 70 mph and it started to nose over. On the second bounce I broke all my exhaust hangers

Should have kept it down the 40 mph or so where it was manageable. Alcohol may have been a contributing factor?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:47 am

Any pictures of Pre-Thunder? Also since Thunder I is still around, can you get a current picture? What are you planning for the dreadful day your son gets his license? Starting on a new platform or you gonna whip out an s10 on 33s?

I wouldn't mind seeing Thunder II.2. I know for a fact that with both a yj or a k5, if starting fresh and having some cash to throw at it, I would do things differently than I did the first time. On a yj, I'd go with new front wagoneer springs front and rear for about 2-3 inches of lift and ~3 stretch, while keeping the stock mounting points on the frame and the stock gas tank. On a K5, I'd put 73-87(91) 1/2 ton rear springs in the front, shackle flip the rear on stock leaves, and 1 tons with 38-42s. Simple, right? Lol

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:45 pm

_STUCKY wrote:Any pictures of Pre-Thunder?

Just some old photos in a photo album. Mostly old Polaroids

... since Thunder I is still around, can you get a current picture?

I'll snap a cell phone pic, if I see it. It looks just the same. Last week he had the topper off. He did mount a safari basket on the topper.

What are you planning for the dreadful day your son gets his license? Starting on a new platform or you gonna whip out an s10 on 33s?

I have a 1971 V-8 Vega Delivery in the garage. It will be his when he puts a new paint job on it. I will disable the NOS while on the street. It is a wonderful little car. 283 ci and a powergilde

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:13 pm

HenryJ wrote:I have a 1971 V-8 Vega Delivery in the garage. It will be his when he puts a new paint job on it. I will disable the NOS while on the street. It is a wonderful little car. 283 ci and a powergilde

Gee I wish I had someone like you as a father! However I am sure with my brains I would find a way to re-enable the NOS. LOL

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Apr 19, 2013 4:54 am

ApproachMedium wrote:... I am sure with my brains I would find a way to re-enable the NOS. LOL

I have a feeling my MicroTrak RTG will also go in there. Dad WILL be watching

I will know where, when and how fast 24/7-365

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri May 24, 2013 7:41 am

I haven't updated this in a while. Not much has changed. I've been driving the s10 like a race car since the intake and exhuast, so still no real mileage improvements. It does sound great and certainly has a little more power. However....

F9K9 wrote:Not a smart comment and one you'll live to regret. Better button up your aerial defenses ASAP!

I did get it stuck....

This made me angry. I had headed down to the creek to get a coffee can full of sand. All was going just fine, until I dropped it in the creek the second time to cross back over. Long story short, it didn't have enough power to spin the tires, kept backfiring, kept dying, wouldn't move, ... I wasn't thrilled. So I walked up and got the jeep and winched the truck out, by myself. Once on flat ground, I did something I should have done to begin with, I popped the hood for a look see, and the top hose clamp furthest from the filter had popped off. 2 minutes with a screw driver and it was fixed. I honestly think I could have driven it out if I had fixed it in the creek. I have had the clamps come loose 2 other times on the road and it acted totally different. On the road, it would drive fine, until you really got on the gas from a stop or like 5 mph and less. Then it would act all jumpy, like little spurts of power mixed in with nothingness. By the way, I had forgot to get the sand that I went down there to get, the can is still in the back of the truck haha

Anywho....

Here's some random pictures.

Oh yea, I'm taking the van and the jeep to Attica again this weekend with my lady friend and my buddy and his wife in the blue tj from the first post in this thread. I'm already loaded up, and just have some piddly stuff to do before I'm ready.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:27 am

So yesterday I had a turn signal out. I stop at o'rielly's and see that they have some red LEDs, direct replacement. Pop them in and the blinker flashes fast, no surprises there. So I look online for a solution and this is what I found. I'll be trying it soon.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f202/98-f ... sh-376306/

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:11 am

Alot of LED direct replacements do not work well in lenses made for incandescent bulbs in tail lights. They will be hard to see in bright sunlight, so check it out before you go crazy with it. I tried a few direct replacment bulbs in my old suburban and my old S10 and they were OK at night but during the day light nobody could see me braking.

If the mod does not work just get an electronic flasher relay. I bought one for mine at a local auto parts store for about 13 bucks i think. They are the ones usually made for when you add a trailer etc so that the load of bulbs does not change the flash rate.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 9:16 am

I checked it out last night in the dark and it looked to be ok. I'll check again her shortly. That mod only disables the flash fast feature of the relay, so lets say I left the bulbs as incandescents, and 1 goes out, the indicator on the dash wouldn't blink fast. Other than that, it should work fine.

Did you have to use a "load equalizer"?

Edit: how was the drive? I wish I would have been ready to get a picture of that boat on the interstate. Haha

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 7:27 pm

I did not put load equalizers on. They are used if you dont get the special relay. With the special relay I removed the load equalizers because the crappy wire that came out of them broke off anyways. They are a waste of money.

Drive was good, got to Joliet around 10PM sat and watched trains for an hour then went to the hotel in Tinley Park. And yes I wish i had the go pro on snapping away for a time lapse because the wide angle lens would have caught that. Oh well.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:05 am

Last week, I did a ton of maintenance to this ol girl, bolted on my 35s, and went to Attica with my dad. It has exactly 0 inches of lift. It only died 1 time, I never needed to get pulled out, and nothing really broke. All in all, a good weekend.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:21 am

Well, whats really left to break on it? LOL

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 1:18 pm

Haha. Not a lot. The steering started to feel pretty loosey goosey. It really did surprised me at how well it did though. Main things I did before the trip was a crankshaft position sensor, fuel pump, had to mess with the tighteners on the rear brakes, and a lot, and I do mean a lot, of sledgehammering the wheel wells. It could really use all new u joints, new motor and tranny mounts, and some not bent steering. Fuel tank leaks somewhere. Not sure if I want to put the time or money into it, but I'm thinking about a fuel cell, building a flat bed, and getting some not crunched doors and fenders.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Sep 04, 2013 7:47 am

Well I got some work done to the yj. Things that have changed since I broke the stock rear axle:

Ford 8.8 with artec truss
Wagoneer front leaf springs on the back
Made rear shackles that don't hit the frame
Cut rear fenders and straightened some sheet metal
Fuel tank moved to the bed to make room for the axle (temporary until a fuel cell)
Driveshaft lengthened 1 inch because of the leaves
Swapped in 1 piece front axle shafts and spicer u joints all around
New front calipers
Broke a braided stainless steel brake line, replaced with 90 c1500 front line

Things I've done to the van:
Wired up the 110v outlets and the AC for 0$
Had the under hood AC recharged
Fixed a broken brake line
New hitch receiver and ball
Re caulked the outside
Patched a hole in the floor of the box in the back, generator exhaust went out the hole

We are heading to Attica Friday

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Oct 20, 2013 8:53 am

^i never updated this after that trip. It didn't really go well. I toasted the motor in the van on the way there, I'm still not sure what the deal is on that. I still made it to Attica though. I ended up breaking the front axle on the jeep, ring and pinion I think, still haven't opened it up to see. Was a fun weekend, but I am yet to see how much the repairs are gonna cost me.

But, in more current news, I have been plotting a solid axle swap on the s10. I didn't realize how much of the parts I have around, but I have been collecting parts for like 10 years so I wasn't really surprised. I may try to get a different truck to do it to since mine works just fine for daily driver duties as it is. The local kid with an 01 is willing to sell. It's a little beat up and would be perfect for an axle swap.

Anyways, the reason for this post is Friday night I took my s10 and my grandpas pop up tent thing that he pulls with his motorcycle to Attica. They were having the last trec race of the season (and possibly ever). It was also customer appreciation day, but I didn't know that. My buddy and his wife took her jeep and I rode in the back. Met up with some other central IL guys and got invited to a night wheeling get together on private land in 2 weeks. But anyways, the owners of the offroad park did a raffle and this guy won a smittybilt xrc8 winch. So I think that since I already have one on the yj, I may as well buy the s10 winch mount from synergy offroad and put it on. I'm gonna have to rename my account to un-STUCKY.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:33 am

Alright guys, so here is the plan as of now. I got ahold of offroad direct and talked to 4wdjoey. This is his thread on s10forum.com :

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f221/1997 ... ct-474412/

I am going to order their solid axle swap kit and winch mount today.

My plan as of now is:

82 wagoneer drivers side drop Dana 44. Needs a gear change, and I bought used 4.10s from a rubicon jk and am planning a Jana k4 kit and Chevy 8 lug outers. I have wagoneer 4 inch springs from the same 82 and am planning on staying spring under axle. From the way 4wdjoey talked, I can use the stock steering box with a jeep pitman arm with the stock jeep steering. For the back I have a 4.10 geared cab and chassis 14 bolt and a Detroit. Planning a disk swap. For the transfer case I have a Dakota case for the front output and a 6 planetary gear set from an np241. For brakes I have a 90 suburban to rob the needed parts, can't remember off the top of my head what it is I'm needing exactly, but I think it was the brake booster, either way I have what I need there. I have a pile of driveshafts and a local driveshaft shop that can do whatever I need. For the rear suspension, I am going to try to stay spring under, but not sure I'll be able to. I will match the front, wherever it is. A leaf swap to a longer pack and a taller shackle may be in order, but I'll have to see where the front is and go from there. Tires and wheels are not really in the plan yet. I'll stuff the biggest tire I can get in there. The blazer that 4wdjoey built has 3 inch springs and 33s, where as I'll have 4 inch springs, so there is hope that 35s will fit. If they will fit, I'll put my toyos from the k5 on and buy 8 lug 15s. If they won't fit, I have no idea what I'll do haha. Oh and the winch.

I am in no hurry to do all this. My plan all along has been solid axle before 100,000 miles, and I'm at like 86,000, so I figure I have a year to get the axles ready. I'm going to try to acquire another s truck to either drive or to do this all to.

Thoughts? Input? Criticism? Free parts? All are welcome.

border man · Post by **border man** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 4:19 pm

You can always buy my truck. My tranny finally failed, so its just sitting. The bronco has stepped up to daily driver duties...

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 7:25 pm

border man wrote:You can always buy my truck. My tranny finally failed, so its just sitting. The bronco has stepped up to daily driver duties...

Gawd, it's good to see you again, Bro!!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Oct 24, 2013 8:25 pm

Is it in Arizona? If it is, that's a bit far... Unless it's cheap.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 4:12 am

_STUCKY wrote:Is it in Arizona? If it is, that's a bit far... Unless it's cheap.

Road trip! LOL.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:37 pm

I just ordered some parts from offroad direct.

Also last night I got a bunch of Dana 44 parts.

Things are looking good.

border man · Post by **border man** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:24 pm

_STUCKY wrote:Is it in Arizona? If it is, that's a bit far... Unless it's cheap.

Yeah, but you know what that means. No rust!

border man · Post by **border man** » Sun Oct 27, 2013 4:28 pm

border man wrote:
You can always buy my truck. My tranny finally failed, so its just sitting. The bronco has stepped up to daily driver duties...
Gawd, it's good to see you again, Bro!!

I'm still here, just not as active

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Oct 29, 2013 5:35 pm

border man wrote:........I'm still here, just not as active .............

You have a PM then.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 06, 2013 8:34 am

I have been gathering parts. I now have ruff stuff disk brake brackets for the cab and chassis 14 bolt. I have my flat top knuckles stripped down, and I got new spindle studs, and everything from the knuckles out except rotors and wheel studs. I ordered longfield spindle bearings that should be here this week. My used jk rubicon rear 4.10 Dana 44 gears came in, and look beefy. Seems I'm forgetting something.

I still have a lot to do and a lot to gather. I still need ball joints, rotors, wheel studs and lug nuts, new calipers (I have cores), get the pass side flat top drilled and tapped, and again it seems like I'm forgetting something haha

I'm thinking about getting synergy ball joints, chromoly shafts and some good u joints, but that is all a little while off.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:23 am

Well my ord kit shipped today.

I've been trying to get all the 44 parts cleaned up. I bought a jug of molasses. Yep, that's right molasses. I have been soaking the parts in a roughly 9 parts water 1 part molasses mixture to break up the rust. After a week, I took them out and pressure washed them, then wire wheeled it all. I was rather surprised with the molasses. I didn't want to have them all sand blasted, because I didn't want the bearing surfaces pitted. Currently the front hubs and caliper brackets are in the goop. My passenger side knuckle still needs milled, drilled, and tapped. Also I found some drive slugs for spares at the shop, most likely from a circa 90' dodge 3/4 ton. When the hubs come out of the goop, I'll finish cleaning them up and get the new bearings and seals in. I still need to order the Jana 44 kit to swap the jk gears to the wagoneer housing. I also still need 8 lug rotors, new calipers, wheel studs, and lug nuts. But, it's all coming along.

As far as my Dana 30 for the yj project, the 4.88 gears and spartan locker are in. I'm waiting on my buddy to drill out the knuckles for the tie rod flip things I bought, then it's time for ball joints. I'm going to get new unit bearings (warranty) and the jeep recently (a few months ago?) got new calipers, rotors and pads. I still haven't opened up the broken d30 to check my shafts, but hopefully they are still good. I'm slightly concerned that the splined section on one of the shafts may be toast at the differential side. I still need to buy 4.88 stuff for the 8.8.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:26 pm

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:59 am

I'll be watching this thread...

_STUCKY wrote:I may try to get a different truck to do it to since mine works just fine for daily driver duties as it is. The local kid with an 01 is willing to sell. It's a little beat up and would be perfect for an axle swap.

Please SAS your crew.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Fri Nov 29, 2013 11:18 am

Show off..... lol

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 6:19 pm

I drooled on those pics.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:52 pm

That is a bad ass lookin truck!!!!!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 8:22 am

So earlier this year when I gutted the bravada for all the goodies, I took the homelink console and the harness and everything that plugs into it. Yesterday I decided to do something with it. My truck has an aftermarket sunroof installed, which complicated things tremendously. I am very grateful to my buddy who stopped by and to approachmedium for answering questions.

First thing was pulling the old harness out from behind the dash and getting the new one in. We couldn't get the new harness plugged in so we took a dremil and cut a hole out behind the light switch. It made life easier and no one will ever see it.

Secondly, we took the old console down to see what we were dealing with, and it was a slight mess. The original console has had a large part cut out and reworked for the sunroof, and the rear section of it had a cobbled mess for the lights. This was our major hold up, but after some trial and error, we got the lights all working correctly. However....

The bravada console was not going to work in my truck without a rework. The mounting tabs for the rear of it landed smack dab in the frame of the sunroof. So we studied on the 2 consoles for a while and ended up switching the display part of them. We put the bravada display in the hacked up original console.

I did not put the visors in because they are a different color and are showing their age. I did not put the mirror on yet because it's a pain in the arse. The homelink part of the console stayed with the bravada console. I got the main thing I wanted, which is the range, instant MPGs, and average MPGs. It literally looks exactly the same inside my truck except the bottom button on the console is now "mode" instead of "on/off". And an added bonus, my sunroof works again! Not sure what we did that made it work, but it wasn't sliding back and now it does. Go figure haha

Also in non s10 news, I have the Dana 30 for the yj back. It still needs some work but is almost ready. Currently it has: 4.88 gears. Spartan locker. Homemade truss. Homemade u bolt eliminator. Tie rod flip inserts in the knuckles. New spicer ball joints. And a bigger yoke. Still needs gussets on the upper C's that will double as shock mounts and a little more work in the spring plates. Also I have a line on some used 4.88s for the other 8.8 I have. My buddy is going to get the 4.10 geared and artec trussed 8.8 for the purple tj (which is in the newest petersons 4 wheel and offroad in the readers rides section)

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:01 pm

What trouble were you having with the dimming mirror? That harness should have the plug right on it for the mirror. To get old mirror off put a screwdriver up in to the bottom of it to release it. It will take a lot of jiggling and cursing to get it off. New mirror slides right over it and plugs right in.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:05 pm

We didn't really have any trouble with the mirror, we just didn't mess with it then. I put it on yesterday.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:11 pm

Ohhh ok. Isn't auto dimming the greatest thing ever?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 11:28 pm

To bad it don,t work with tinted windows and a topper....

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 7:41 am

Haha yea I couldn't case less for the auto dimmer. Tinted windows and a topper on mine. I didn't notice it do a thing, even when shining my nice little led flashlight into the sensor. I'd rather have a light on the mirror honestly.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 5:45 pm

In order for it to dim with your light on the sensor the sensor on the rear of the mirror needs to be covered too. That sensor is the ambient light sensor so it knows its day or night out.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:55 am

Ordered another piece of the puzzle:

http://shop.synergyoffroad.com/Synergy- ... hMount.htm

I really wish I had more time on my hands so I could work on the s10 and the yj.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Mar 21, 2014 9:53 am

So this was driving me nuts. I couldn't find an answer online. The question: will the ord hanger and the synergy winch plate work together?

Answer: yes but the winch plate will need a little trimmed out on the bottom braces for the hanger to fit tight against it.

This guy is happy.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 1:48 pm

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/95 ... -info.html

For my LS 5.7L engine, I looked to the GM Vortec 6.0L with hydroboost. Napa part number NSP 81-1411 . Current cost as of 1/26/11 is $38.99 with a $7.80 core.

Hose Port Type : Tube Fitting
P/S Pump Line Thread Size : M16 x 1.5
P/S Pump Shaft Type : w/ Hub, Internal Thread

This pump is rated to produce 1280-1550psi and puts out 1.7GPM at 400rpm and 3.6GPM at 1600rpm.

I called into our tech line on this.

Stock ratings for the 4.3L Vortec pump (I looked up a '96 S10 all models 2wd/4wd) are as follows:

Max PSI is when you're at knuckle stop, cranking the wheel. = 850-1120psi
GPM at idle (IIRC S10's idle around 550rpm) = 1.0-1.4gpm
GPM max (maxes out at 1500 rpm engine speed) = 2.2-2.9gpm

That's for Napa part number NSP 81-1209.
Hose Port Type : O-ring
P/S Pump Line Thread Size : M16 X 1.5
P/S Pump Shaft Type : Press On

Seeing as it's a common P-pump, I'd probably try the 81-1411 pump I listed above. If it doesn't work for some reason, bring it back.

^pirated from pirate

has anyone used this power steering pump? Is there a write up anywhere? I can't seem to find one, but seems to be a good swap.

Also, I have been really pondering on what to do to the rear suspension when I swap in my axles. I really would like to stay spring under axle and push the axle back a little. Looking at this link:

http://littlekeylime.com/MrN/mrnimages/leaf_springs.png

It says that s10 springs are 54 inches long, center pin is at 26 inches back. 94-01 dodge 1/2 ton springs are 60 inches long, center pin is about 28 inches back. So my question is, how do you guys think those would work out with a longer shackle, spring under axle? Also are there any build threads or write ups of anyone doing different leaves in the rear? I can't find any. I'm thinking spring over will be taller than I am wanting, but don't think I can get as high I'll need with just a longer shackle.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:14 am

Pump pressure is regulated. Pump up your own pump. There is a thread on the modifications to be made. I did mine.

I would SOA the rear axle. Long shackles will be worrisome at that level. You risk rubbung the driveshaft on the fueltank shield. Ask Hobie

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:13 am

You have a link to the pump info? I'm coming up blank...

As for the leaves, I have been searching every s10 site I can think of and it seems everyone does spring over. I'm really wanting to stay away from that though. I feel the rear tire is already close enough to the front corner of the rear fender, and there isn't much metal I can remove, however at the rear there's a lot of trimming I can do. The shackle wouldn't need to be much longer than what people use for lift shackles anyway, it'd be very similar to swapping longer springs into a jeep. I could always order a set of weld on bushings and move the shackle mount too. As for driveshaft hitting the tank skid plate, I could see that. The pinion on a 14 bolt is offset a little to one side but can't remember which side, so may not be an issue if it's to the passenger side. I'm gonna try to find a set of the dodge springs and play around with them when the time comes. If it works, I'll be famous in the s10 crowd haha. If not, well I'll just toss them in my pile of parts.

Edit: the yoke on a 14 bolt axle is offset to the passenger side

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:16 pm

Power steering Pump Volume and Pressure Upgrades

HenryJ wrote:This one did work out very well. I have had no resistance or hesitation when turning at idle speeds since I made this modification. Even in rough terrain I have had no need to bump the idle to turn.
I tried to make things worse by switching to the ZQ8 quick ratio steering box. It still works great.

I think it is a better match for the system and larger tires. It is not super easy steering. It feels natural and there is still feedback.
I would do it again I would probably cuss, and complain, swearing never to try it again though.

What parts do I need?
GM PART # 26009894 $12.44 FITTING
GM PART # 5688035 $2.72 SEAL V
GM PART # 5688037 $3.52 SPRING V

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 8:09 pm

looks like I have some reading to do

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Apr 05, 2014 10:06 am

Hmmmm... Something has changed with my photo bucket account, and I'm not sure what to do about it. It's displaying only part of my pictures....

So anyways...

I put the alternator that I bought from HJ on yesterday. Went pretty smooth, only took about 1/2 an hour. I could not find a diagram for the belt under the hood or in the manual, so had to google it. It all seems to be working just fine. Took a long drive home last night to see if my headlights were still dimming, and I didn't notice it at all.

AC Delco part #: 334-2481A (Alternator)
Napa part #: 060960 (belt)

Thanks Brule!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Apr 06, 2014 4:44 pm

Great to hear! I bought a new one for mine with a two pin regulator. Solved my over charging issue. Took a second shipment to get it right, but it all worked out eventually. I installed a 250amp alternator. Pretty sure the only difference is the overdrive pulley.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun May 11, 2014 7:11 am

I now have an 04 astro van steering box

I'm going to start buying my brake parts next, but I need to do some research on wheel studs. I believe I have everything I need for my dodge knuckles to mount the Chevy brakes to. We finished in the fields yesterday, so I should have some time to mess with it in the near future. However, my next project I'm going to tackle is rebuilding the Tbi on my k5. We are planning to go to flat nasty Memorial Day weekend and I'll take the k5 if I can get a little work done to it, if not I'll putt around in the mj. I've been driving the k5 the last few weeks. Figured I had better give it some love, since I went to move it and it fired right up after sitting for a year. I had to replace the fuel pump relay on the mj but it's running as good as is to be expected. It has the tsl's on it again. I had 2 of them not holding air so said screw it and had tubes put in all 4. The yj is still broke, but the new front axle is complete except for the home brew spring plates and a few other minor things. I'm really hoping that by winter I have all (maybe I should say most haha) of my junk in drivable condition.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu May 15, 2014 7:43 am

It's been really quiet around here lately...

So in an attempt to get the disk brakes in the k5 to stop how they should, I have ordered a master cylinder from an 80 trans am with 4 wheel disk brakes and an adjustable proprtioning valve.

In an attempt at rear passenger comfort, I took my good top off of it and took my junk top and removed the windows and sawzalled some of the fiberglass out. Basically I cut it to cover the "bed" but still be open. I don't know why I haven't done it before, I'm loving it. I probably dropped 100+ pounds off of it.

Also in the plan is go pull the seats out of the 87 k5, take the seats off the brackets, and see if I can easily mount the corbeau seats to those brackets. It looks like the seat belts will work with those seats. I'm hoping to retain the sliders.

Also I got a nice 35x12.5x15 for free the other day so I'm gonna mount it up on one of the stock 87 wheels for a spare. Need to find my bed mount or just pull the one out of the 87. (I'm not going to ether it haha)

I'm also on the look out for a cheap stereo with an aux and USB input, preferably a marine grade stereo. Anyone have one sitting around that works, I'd be interested. I'm thinking I'm going to attempt to make some speaker "pods" out of PVC and mount them to the roof of the hacked up top. Local kid made something similar for his 4 wheeler and I know I can make some that look better.

Oh and I did end up rebuilding the Tbi on the 91 k5. The fuel pressure regulator was leaking bad and 1 injector wasn't.. Injecting... So it all got cleaned as good as I could with carb cleaner and a wire brush and I swapped the injectors from the 87 k5 into it, along with all the parts from the rebuild kit. It runs a lot better than it has in years, wish I'd have done that along time ago too.

I'll see if my photobucket is acting screwy still, if it's not ill put up a few pics

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu May 15, 2014 8:24 am

This is the 91 with the good top on it. Pic is a couple years old but it looks the same except I've peeled all the trim and junk off, trimmed the fenders a little more, and it's more rusty.

Hacked up top

(why is this pic so big? Anyone know what i need to change for it to display like the one above it?)

Good top off, rear window out.

And hacked up top on

Ok so after messing with it for a little bit, I think my new phone is taking pics that are too big. What size do I need to resize them to, to get them to display correctly?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu May 15, 2014 8:27 am

I dont know how much of it they have out there, but being I am boat LA LA land out here on the jersey shore I can probably pick up a marine grade stereo and speaker set for you for about 200 bucks or less if you want. They usually put them on sale about now because the summer is coming.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu May 15, 2014 8:58 am

That's way more than I want to spend haha. I found some no name receiver for 25$ plus shipping with USB, aux, and an sd card slot. Not sure I want to take the gamble on it, but if it lasts a year I'd get my money out of it. If you do find a good deal though, let me know, I might be interested.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu May 15, 2014 11:30 am

Will do! I always see the speakers on sale too.

http://www.westmarine.com/marine-stereo ... --15004468

Something like this is probably not too bad to start off with. I am an audio nut so I have no problem spending 200 bucks on a Pioneer or Kenwood that will last forever lol.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu May 15, 2014 9:04 pm

Got these in today. Ended up putting them on the sliders from the 87, on the brackets from the 91. Had to cut a bracket that came on these seats and weld a piece between the halves, and drilled 2 holes in he sliders. Seat belts will work fine also. 4 bolts on each side and the stock seats can go back in.

I rounded up my spare tire and wheel and will be taking them to town in the morning. Couldn't find the spare tire mount from the 91 so pulled it from the 87.

The 90 suburban I have has front tow hooks that I plan to pull tomorrow. My proportioning valve will be here Saturday, master cylinder is in the back of the truck. I'm hoping to have the brakes dealt with this weekend. And I lost one of the wires for the radio, and none of the 3 parts trucks I have has another.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat May 17, 2014 8:03 pm

I wired the headlights on the k5 up for all 4 to come on on bright. Only thing I didn't have was the circuit breaker. Still had 2 of the brackets from the 88-98 Chevy trucks for the ac. Was pretty simple. Also got the spare mounted and in the bed. My prop valve won't be here until Monday so planning to get brakes dealt with Tuesday.

Edit: I still don't know why my pics are so big. It's not showing the whole thing. What do I need to do?