Torsion bar re-index

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:23 pm

ok i re did the t-bar crank... and shackles.. the passenger side is maxed out the bolt is run all the way up... but the drivers side is only like a 1/4 of the way up from stock... both sides sit even just like a 1/4 inch below 33inches from ground to fender lip..can i remove my passenger t-bar and key... move the key around a notch and reinstall or would that be to much of a difference for it.. i was just thinking if the drivers side is only a 1/4 above the stock setting and the pass is maxed... it should roughly make up the difference if i moved the key around a notch thanks for any advise... its really cold outside and i dont want to go tear my front end apart just for the heck of it right now

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:34 pm

A "notch" will be too much.
If you are within the Z height measurement, then you are fine. If you can not reach the maximum Z height, then you need new torsion bars, or think about swapping to 2" lift keys.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:55 pm

it is at max z height from the lower c arm bolt to the bottom of the arm at the ball joint... the cv axles have gone from perfectly level to a good bit of angle i'm just trying to figure out why my truck still sits like 2-3 inches lower than a true ZR2 will going from 235/75's to 31/10.5's really make that much difference? i was at a red light sitting next to a ZR2 and i was still looking up at the driver not just looking over at the same level

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 07, 2013 4:14 pm

The ZR2 is truly different. The suspension mounting points, frame and suspension components are what make it "Higher and Wider". A Non-RPO ZR2 can not match that suspension package.
You can do things to get very close though. Adjustments will not get there. Check out the MML ( Marvelous Mystery Lift ). That will get you just a little bigger than a ZR2

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:35 am

Hartleybl wrote:it is at max z height from the lower c arm bolt to the bottom of the arm at the ball joint... the cv axles have gone from perfectly level to a good bit of angle i'm just trying to figure out why my truck still sits like 2-3 inches lower than a true ZR2 will going from 235/75's to 31/10.5's really make that much difference? i was at a red light sitting next to a ZR2 and i was still looking up at the driver not just looking over at the same level

It's not a ZR2.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:11 am

Hartleybl wrote:... i'm just trying to figure out why my truck still sits like 2-3 inches lower than a true ZR2 will going from 235/75's to 31/10.5's really make that much difference?

and can not be as tall as. The difference in tire size is not all the difference. Tire size is a gain, but only 1"-1.5" in this case.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:05 am

It is normal for the t-bar bolts to be at different positions even when the truck is sits perfectly level. This is due to the torsion springs having slightly different spring rates even when new and sometimes gets worse as more mileage is put on them.

If you want your CC to sit about the same as a stock ZR2 you will have to almost max out your Z-height setting, add a 2" body lift, 1-1/2" to 2" shackles or a bigger spring pack, and run 31" tires. There is good information on this setup in the Marvelous Mystery Lift topic.

Steve

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:12 am

thanks i just read up on it and when i can afford the body lift i'm gonna go for it i wish i could find the differential drop brackets for sell but i cant seem to find them without buying an entire package deal of some sort...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 12:34 am

Look at this:

http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8786

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:56 pm

nice pics and info i cant wait to finish the process on mine.. but i'll have to live with t-bar crank and shackles that i have till i can get a better paying job

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 9:25 pm

dang.. i should have left it well enough alone... i lowered it 1inch in the front and put 2 inch block in the rear now if i put it in 4wd it makes a terrible howling noise and it gets 3 times as bad when i let off the gas and start coasting... does it at all speeds... and only in 4 hi..... 4low is normal... im unlowering tommarow and i'm just gonna leave it stock cant win for loseing.... lift it... makes weird noises... lower it sounds like its gonna sling apart...

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:16 pm

U-Joints dry?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 6:37 am

HenryJ wrote:U-Joints dry?

That's exactly what mine did after my last major mod. I took the front down 3" and the rear down 4". Now I sit exactly 6" to the frame . After a lot of trial and error alignment , got it out to test and had a terrible roar underneath . Got up on a lift and ran it locked and unlock only to discover my rear u-joints wabbling and falling apart. New DANA joints at both ends and it's gold.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 4:30 pm

i checked everything all my u-joints are great no slack at all front shaft and rear.. it only makes it when im in 4wd and gets alot worse when i start coasting... it looks like the passenger side axle is kinda pushed out of the tube 1/4 in or so there is now a shiney spot between the inner CV and the axle tube...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 14, 2013 5:47 pm

Hartleybl wrote:i checked everything all my u-joints are great no slack at all front shaft and rear....

Did you pull the shafts and each cap to inspect them? That is the only way to know for sure. What happens is they dry out and create a groove where they normally run. When you changed the angle, you moved the wear to a new place in the range. Now it is binding at that point. The noise will go away eventually. Usually spectacularly and taking other things with it

PITA to pull the shaft and inspect, but if you have no other suspects, it is really not all that bad. Be sure to clean the threads on the strap retention bolts and add some fresh LockTite.

Plenty of other suspects. Pinion bearings, CV on the half shafts, wheel bearings front and rear. Lots to check.

You said you lowered it? Did you check the driveshaft length to make sure it did not bottom out in the transfercase? You do not want the shafts in a bind. They need room to move in and out.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:30 pm

i unlowered it today and its back at stock 31.5 in front and 32.5 in back thats how it was before i ever put i wrench to it and it still makes that noise... it does sound kinda like its coming from the t-case sounds like its directly under the truck... but the front end is making a noise only when i hit a dip in the road evenly with both tires like backing out of my driveway or pulling into my driveway... it makes a noise similar to how coil springs sound with those twist in boosters.... if that helps... i greased it and it went away for like 5 miles.... and now its back..

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:34 pm

oh yeah... the noise is not quite as bad... but it still makes it... and only in 4x4... and it seems like it takes longer for it to disengage 4x4 also... like 200-300 ft before you hear/feel it disengage it used to be like 50-70 ft...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:36 pm

Did you re-align the front end after each adjustment?

Don't engage 4x4 on dry pavement. All sorts of things will make bad noises

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 4:48 pm

yes it has been realigned... i payed for a lifetime front end alignment and im getting my moneys worth out if it lol and i only use 4x4 on dirt roads/ gravel roads... theyre are plenty of those around here in foley al.... my 4x4 testing road is county road 55 like a mile from the house ... i just hope i havent messed anything major up... i know since ive lifted it and lowered it and now put it back to stock... the passenger side axle tube is leaking diff oil... but it still has plenty in it i saw a video on youtube that i found the link to on s10forum.com but the guy said it only made the noise in 2wd... but but it showed pictures in the thread of the axle engagement gear with almost 50 % of the teeth worn off the edge... mine is making that same noise as the truck in the video.... but instead of it doing it in 2wd... it does it in 4x4... so i am Not gonna use my 4x4 any more till i can find out whats going on with it...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:10 pm

If your axle tube is leaking oil, you might suspect a bad axle and axle bearing. That would be unrelated to any suspension adjustments. If you are referring to the front right axle tube, it too should be unrelated to suspension adjustments. Maybe time to replace some seals though.
Easiest to just drop the whole front dif out in that case.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:01 pm

so its also possible that the sound i am hearing in 4wd could be a bad axle bearing? ... maybe i can find a bravada around here in a pull-a-part or u-pull-it i'd really like to get rid of the 2 piece axle and vac engagement..

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 6:44 pm

Not a real fan of that mod myself. You have the wrong transfercase for that frontend, IMO.
The front diff is really pretty good. Bearings have not been an issue. If the cable has been stuck , then yes there can be problems. Other than that, normal stuff. Seals need to be replaced when they outlive their pliable life

Rear axle bearings and shafts, yes those are a common replacement. Move up to the bigger ZR2 rear axle.

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