Avalanche help!

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:13 pm

Quite a bit of time working on installs:

Jotto mount

Inverter

So nice to have the laptop working!

The VHF radio is mounted. I still have to make a cable and mount antennas. Tomorrow I'll add a sixth power port for the APRS.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 5:56 pm

Back on the air

Yaesu FT8800 dual band. The external speaker is that square black box on the side of the console. I wasted lots of time searching for that safe place I put the antenna duplexer. Grrr! Same twin 1/4 wave whips up top.
APRS is going again too.
I ran the power cable and installed the quick connector out back. The circuit beaker is back on the top post of the Diehard Platinum.
The LED back up light is strung across the back and all tied in.
Lots of progress today.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:58 pm

What kinda before and after ground clearance numbers do you got? Looks better but, still doesnt look like it has the clearance to go where the CC did? Or maybe its an illusion with the bigger body and longer wheel base?

Its starting to look familer though. Does that avalanche have the HIR lightbulbs stock? Iv skimmed over the thread, but what kinda lighting mods are you planning? Aside from quad beam if that hasnt already been done, im sure thats a given.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 8:24 pm

fallvitals wrote:What kinda before and after ground clearance numbers do you got?

I didn't do the before. I have what I had with the S-10. 12" at the lowest point on the front shield and 10" at the rear differential.

Does that avalanche have the HIR lightbulbs stock? Iv skimmed over the thread, but what kinda lighting mods are you planning? Aside from quad beam if that hasnt already been done...

It has X88 listed in the RPO codes as having had HIR bulbs. They were not in it though. It did bump the lows to 60W. Some day I'll buy another set of HIR bulbs for the highs.
I did do the diode quad beam mod. My lows and fogs are on with the highbeams. Works pretty darn good.
I did add a halogen back up light to the drivers side tail lamp and now the LED lights are under the back, so that lighting is better.
I do miss my HIDs on the winch. I'll probably solve that this weekend. I plan to build a receiver for the front tomorrow.

ckholloway · Post by **ckholloway** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:43 am

Now its starting to look like you own it. Tires make it look much better

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 2:04 pm

Tires and roof rack make all the difference in the world. It's starting to look like it's at home.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:18 pm

Now it feels better. I have my winch and HIDs back!
Today I put together a front receiver hitch.

First up was to cut a hole in the bumper-

Then fab up a receiver-

Bolt it in eight ways behind the bumper. Tied in top and bottom-

Put it all back together-

Cut the hitch tube down 2.5" to tighten things up-

Go out for some poser pics-

I'm done playing with things for a while. Right now I am waiting on the exhaust to show up. Maybe next week?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 6:31 pm

10 years of modifications in my old truck, fast tracked into this one.
I did the $2.49 Audio input mod, installed new Autolite XP iridium sparkplugs, added an underhood light -

Hayes trailer brake controller was plug-n-play, installed a new wireless light controller for the HID lights and installed a Spectre ProFab air intake

I added the Insultek insulation around the heat shield and stitched up a polyester pre-cleaner for the filter.
O'Reillys did a price match on the intake kit so I got it for $119.99 and the fabric for the pre-cleaner cost $10. I have enough fabric and elastic left to make a spare or two.

Still waiting on exhaust. New ship date is not until the 23rd. Looks like that might be a Thanksgiving day project.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 9:06 pm

Wow thats clean! You'll have to save some work for future projects, don't finish all the mods now!

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 18, 2010 10:30 pm

Exhausted! Not me the Avalanche. Cherry bombed. Took about an hour.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:53 am

My Jotto desk laptop mount hindered the two cup holders quite a bit. I really wonder why they did not add one to the door pocket. Those worked great in the s-series.

Anyway...

I had used a pair of the German designed cup holders available from Groit's Garage in my old truck. They were...Ok. They survived for quite a while. The passenger side broke a couple of the pins. It still held a drink, but took efforts to close properly.
With experience behind me now, I did not reinvest in those again. Too pricey for the durability. This time I opted for the less expensive folding cup holders: NAPA Cup Holder # 751-1027 $5.49

Availability is good. Less than half the price of the German cup holders. Time will tell if they are a good investment.

Mounted below my knee on the sides of the center console. Should work out just fine.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:21 pm

HenryJ wrote:Exhausted! Not me the Avalanche. Cherry bombed. Took about an hour.

Is that setup dual?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:22 pm

HenryJ wrote:My Jotto desk laptop mount hindered the two cup holders quite a bit. I really wonder why they did not add one to the door pocket. Those worked great in the s-series.

Anyway...

I had used a pair of the German designed cup holders available from Groit's Garage in my old truck. They were...Ok. They survived for quite a while. The passenger side broke a couple of the pins. It still held a drink, but took efforts to close properly.
With experience behind me now, I did not reinvest in those again. Too pricey for the durability. This time I opted for the less expensive folding cup holders: NAPA Cup Holder # 751-1027 $5.49

Availability is good. Less than half the price of the German cup holders. Time will tell if they are a good investment.

Mounted below my knee on the sides of the center console. Should work out just fine.

Nice

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 20, 2010 5:48 pm

Jim wrote:Is that setup dual?

Nope. Single 3" mandrel bent tube.

Cherry bomb Products

They do make a single in dual out for the Tahoe.

Jim wrote:Nice

Thanks! I think they are similar to some that you used in your wife's car? How did they hold up?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 6:46 pm

Sail panel LEDs installed today. I like'em

Youtube video (not mine)

Amber DRL and wigwag'd up front.

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 8:09 pm

HenryJ wrote:Amber DRL and wigwag'd up front.

What bulbs did you use in your DRLs? I've been wanting to change mine to amber.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 01, 2010 9:04 pm

Jim wrote:What bulbs did you use in your DRLs? I've been wanting to change mine to amber.

3157A
The relay to wig wag them with the turn signal is a pretty easy install. It makes the turn stand out nicely.

border man · Post by **border man** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:31 am

Does it have the same wig-wag effect with the hazards on? Looks cool.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:19 am

border man wrote:Does it have the same wig-wag effect with the hazards on? Looks cool.

Yes! That was exactly why I wanted it. I get to use them fairly frequently responding to the station.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 12:51 pm

Today I took care of a weak link up front. Literally. The link between the tierod end and relay rod is small and is known to bend or break. These are just a couple examples:

H2 tierod failure
Pull Chevy bent tierods

Today I installed stainless steel sleeves on both rods:

They were on sale for $50 a pair from Merchant-Automotive. I had to drill the inside threaded portion down .125" so that the sleeve would thread on far enough to set the toe properly. A 9/16" drill bit did the job.

One less worry. Next up, servos.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 06, 2010 4:59 am

Nice upgrade!

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:35 pm

OPT , Oregon Performance Transmission set me up again. I ordered the Corvette servo , billet fourth and cover. Good prices and here quickly.
Installed tonight. It now shifts like it should.
This transmission is not the slush box the last started as, but it did need a little help. Those stock servos were indeed sloppy.
I have only the ride home under my belt. I am sure that it is a good improvement. The install took about 40 minutes. Just enough room for the install to make it fairly easy.

Next up may be the auxiliary fuel tank. That will likely be a X-mas break project.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:39 am

Something just dawned on me with the rapid progress that you are making on the rig. The time of year and if, you are having another "seasonal lay off"?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 09, 2010 5:53 am

Nope. I think they learned their lesson on that one. thirty years with no workers compensation insurance claims and then all the sudden they get hit. The premium increase was not worth the savings. They are still paying for that one and will be for a while.

I had been planning a Canada trip this spring. This truck is not ready for that. I am trying to get it to that point and have time to recover financially. That clock is running out though.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Dec 09, 2010 7:22 pm

Your work is proceeding at a great rate then. 6 1/2 years later, you still amaze me!

For the newer members........

Brule was doing all of this PLUS, being active on several forums, being a moderator on, at least, one and doing it on a "dial up" connection until rather recently.

Looking good, is all that I can say, Brule!

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 10, 2010 5:51 pm

I just happened across a post on a bed mount rack for bikes. It sure looked similar to the rack we use on the Maxx. Inspired, I went out to the garage and dusted off the Thule 400xtr Rapid Aero clamp on racks. They fit clamped to the cover panels on the bed!

I had one Yakima Blockhead mount. I modified a couple elevator bolts to work as channel bolts and mounted it in the center of the front bar. I'll try hauling Tach's bike a few times and see how well it works. It looks like it should work well. If it does I'll buy a couple more Blockheads and carry three bikes back there.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:34 pm

I have been looking for a way to vent underhood heat, much as the cowl hood did for my last truck. I did not like the engine heat vented right where the air is picked up for the interior though. No cowl hood for this one.
I did lots of looking for something that might work. There are several louvered panels available, but I'm not so happy with their appearance or methods to attach them.
I came across this install : Oman 4x4 Hood Vent Install
My search for new louvers ended when I found out they have been discontinued and the few that are still out there underwent a substantial price increase. $160 plus freight was more than I was willing to spend.
One local yard had two Pontiac Grand Prix the correct years. They had checked the green one last week and forgot to call me to tell me they were gone. I saw that they had a white 1996 hood with louvers. They had not checked out that one. I offered to come over and check it out.
Over the hill and through the snow! It was iced over and had six inches of snow on it, but they were both there. The hood was 80% , but I knew the guy running this yard and he was willing to let them go. I shoveled the hood off , pulled them and $20 later they were mine.
Returning home I coated them with paint stripper and removed three layers of white paint. I'd say this car had been repainted more than once. Down to original paint, I scuffed them good and gave them a coat of black satin Krylon Fusion.

There are a few minor imperfections, but they are not too bad.

My son arrived home from school and off we went to the shop to get inside. Masking tape and below 20 degrees outside just don't mix well.
I had already laid out templates and spacing earlier so once masked off things went pretty quickly.
Sixteen holes drilled, there was no going back now.

I would have liked them farther back and more toward the outside, but hood braces hindered any other positions. This was the only place with space enough on the underside. These need to be functional, so there was no other option.
I did not realize that I was out of metal blades for the jigsaw, so a run to Wally world slowed the progress a little. Once we returned I cut out the big holes. Then I installed the hood insulation and chalked it to cut holes on the interior. Once that was ready I painted the raw edges of the hood , trimmed up some 1/2" neoprene to fill the void and hold some tension on the screws, attached the screws with fender washers and reinstalled the hood insulation.

The open area of both add up to 12.5 square inches (.25"x5"x5x2 ) The design of the louvers creates a low pressure zone behind each opening. At speed that should draw heat out. At low speeds at least it has some where to go.

Finished after dark. I guess I get to see what I have done on the morning.

I checked them after I parked. If nothing else they make great handwarmers

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:36 pm

Looks good! Got a full view picture?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:08 pm

Nope. As with any mod it finishes after dark. I was pushing it to get done as a winter storm is predicted for tomorrow.
I still need to black the bottom side as I see the picture shows too much color.
My wife says they don't look too bad. I still have the rose color glasses on , so I know I can not be objective. They should be functional. That is what counts.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 10:39 pm

Well atleast you can do it inside! I finished the first of two bays in my garage, though the second i plan to do very little too. I finished my workshop. They are both small my work shop is 8x20 rounded up to the nearest foot. And my second bay is just a little wider. Might be able to pull a car in for a oil change or something, but the garage door is so short, my crew wouldn't fit, lol. Maybe I'll post pics of my shop from start to finish tomorrow. It took a few months a lot more cash then I expected but it's my shop! Just need to find a tv and have dad install coaxial connectors.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 3:38 pm

Warmed up more than I thought it would today.

A small victory on the quest for the second fuel tank:

Deciding on a location for a fill and having it ready is a load off my mind. They will be close, but should work. This will be better. The fill attendants always looked at me a little silly when I asked to fill both tanks on the old truck and they only saw one. This will make things much simpler.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 3:59 pm

HenryJ wrote:...................The fill attendants always looked at me a little silly when I asked to fill both tanks on the old truck and they only saw one. This will make things much simpler.

Fill attendants? Now that is a blast from the past!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:13 pm

Oregon, one of the last places that thinks we are not properly trained to fill our own fuel tanks

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 6:40 pm

Iv always wanted to go to a state that still did that! Do you have to tip or anything? Looks like a easy set up!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 18, 2010 6:44 pm

No tipping. At least I have never heard of that. Very few are full service now. You might get the windshield washed if they are bored, or motivated.
To me it is a bit of a hassle. It is someone to chat with at the pump though. I guess that is not so bad.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:50 am

HenryJ wrote:

Awesome

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:16 pm

Up bright and early. Sawzall in hand the first step to the tank install:

I had to cut the fill tube and add a few inches of height. I did not have enough filler hose at the shop, so I grabbed a piece when I returned home for dinner.

Crossmembers made:

Tank has been in and out more times than can be counted now.

Lots of drilling , painting and welding...

The tank is bolted in place. It hangs just below the frame rails. Tomorrow I finish the fill tube and look into hanging the spare back underneath. No going back now.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:47 pm

Looking good, Brule!!!! You have no idea how comforting your extra tank, in the CC, made me feel after I tossed in my extra 5 gallons of gas while on the WRT.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:18 pm

That sort of stretch is SOP around here. The run over the Steens was over 500 miles with only one place that offered fuel. They don't list s price at the pump. Over $4.50 a gallon is what Gabe said

Not a place I want to fill up.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Dec 25, 2010 9:06 am

Got plans to shield that new tank for protection from rocks etc on the trails you take?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 25, 2010 3:49 pm

roadrunner wrote:Got plans to shield that new tank for protection from rocks etc on the trails you take?

Probably not this tank. It sits way up there and actually I do have a bit of a shield with the tire under it.

I finished up most of it today. I now have two filler caps under the door-

All plumbed to the tank-

Pump line tee'd into the main tank fill vent line and the tank vent tied into the main tank vent line-

Another shot of the tank in place that gives a bit better perspective on how far up it hides. Well out of harm's way-

It is up far enough that I decided to go ahead and hang the spare back underneath. It is a bit lower than before, but not terrible.

A little lower than the hitch. It is above the bottom of the axle. 11" at the lowest point and 12" across the tire. While it may be too low for rougher trails, it is high enough for moderate trails and road duty. I can always drop it and toss it on top in the rough stuff , if I need to.

My battery tray arrived yesterday. Long story, but it was gathered from another dealer as the one I ordered never showed. Bob really did me a favor getting it in time for the Xmas break.

I'll probably wire in the isolator and install the other two bike mounts on the rack tomorrow.

Once the fuel gauge for the auxiliary tank arrives I'll finish wiring it up and be done with that project.

Progress is good.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 8:02 pm

Parts finally arrived today.

The fuel gauge is in-

All wired up and ready for fuel. The gauge is a little lower than I might have preferred. The fuel button is in a nice place though. I may have to work a little to check the fuel level. Tomorrow I think that I'll heat the panel and tip it up a little bit.
I'll fill the tank and check the gauge calibration too.

The second battery arrived. I wired it to charge from the isolator-

...and added my surplus Battery Brain as the method of combining them.

I can manually combine them under the hood , or use the remotes. The way it is set up this battery charges when the truck is running. It remains full and fresh. When I need extra reserve I combine them and "jump start" myself. Fairly simple right now. We will see what the future brings.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Dec 30, 2010 2:41 pm

I did heat up the knee bolster and push the top in more as well as adding a wedge around the bottom side to angle it upward a bit more.

The gallons display is now visible from my driving position.

Still need to fill up. I'll do that on my next trip to town.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 3:07 pm

As with any new project I work out the bugs as I find them. Filling the truck last night I found that the tee I inserted into the vent line for the transfer tank , served to restrict that and slow the filling for the main tank. Not acceptable.
I also found the during a transfer while traveling, the engine would stumble after a little while. I don't know what in the vent system might be contributing to this, but moving the fill line is a must now. That was the second strike.

I picked up a copper 1"x1/2"x1" tee and a brass barbx1/2" sweat fitting. This tee is cut into the fill tube for the main tank. I used some braided stainless line I had lying around this time. It held up well on the last truck too.

I put a splice in the vent line, so it is free and clear as it was stock. This should be a better solution and probably what I should have done to begin with.

The gauge is now set for 18 gallons when full. I think it is all where I want it now.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 4:45 pm

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:35 pm

Looks like a few more mods for my Avalanche:
Looks like a few more mods for my Avalanche

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 11:43 am

Finished up a few little items.
Two more Yakima Blockhead mounts on the back-

Now we can carry all three bikes.

Added two recovery hooks to the back.

Towing a friends Tahoe last week reminded me that I had forgot to add those.
I think I'm finally to that "happy place". I can not think of anything I am missing from my old truck. Sure there might come something small in the future, but for now I think that I'm ready to get it "out there" and build some confidence in this truck.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 2:59 pm

I give you about two weeks and you'll be at it again. What you've done so far looks good, and is quite functional.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 3:47 pm

Hmmmmm, those body mounts are beggin' for some LED rock lights!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 01, 2011 4:25 pm

F9K9 wrote:... those body mounts are beggin' for some LED rock lights!

You might be right

Naah, I have the LED strip lights and those light things up pretty well

Serge PETIT · Post by **Serge PETIT** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:13 am

Congratulations Brule you have now a unique and exceptional truck !
Unfortunately such trucks are not allowed in France .........

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:36 am

Serge PETIT wrote:Unfortunately such trucks are not allowed in France .........

Really? Too big? Don't meet export requirements?
I don't think I've seen any with amber rear turn lamps and front side indicators.

Serge PETIT · Post by **Serge PETIT** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 10:13 am

The stock Avalanche is authorized even if it is not distributed in France .
If I import ( including from another european country) a stock one I will have to obtain from a specific administration and after tests (millage , sound , braking etc ), and control for conformity with the legal requirements (lightning, belts , tires etc) and European norms The conformity paper and then it will be possible to register the vehicule and to drive in France .............
For example if the tires are DOT but not SAE they are refused ...........
Total cost for this adventure is around 4000 Euros and many papers to write (not including cost of necessary adaptations .......... )
But the mods like yours are not accepted by the technical control that we have every 2 years .
If you really want do such mods (lift, additional tank, .......) you have to show back the truck to the special administration which will homologate (or not) the modified truck as a "special vehicle" ; If you have a crash with a modified but non homologated truck the insurance company will not pay .
That is why when seeing a truck like yours we have great dreaming "children eyes"

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:57 pm

I see. Now I understand better. We have states with similar restrictions and rules for modified vehicles. fortunately I live in Oregon where the rules are less restrictive.

Serge PETIT · Post by **Serge PETIT** » Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:12 am

Thanks for letting me dream on your truck !!!!!

ckholloway · Post by **ckholloway** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:27 pm

Here is a couple of pics of the Avalanche that my wife and I just picked up. I can't get them to post so this should be the codes for the photobucket pages.
We took it over to Brules place the night we picked it up so he could take a look. I have a few things to do yet but so far it's coming along well. The lift was on it already but it needs tires and I am torn as to which ones to put on it, but I got the bully dog instaleld and the exhaust is scheduled and an extra 1" lift in the front along with allignment will be done soon also. Cold ait intake is also on the to be done board.

ckholloway · Post by **ckholloway** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 10:28 pm

Oh and Brule the stainless adjusters, ya I'm probably gonna need those after watching those vids. Thanks again for all your help bud.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 10:37 am

The tie-rod sleeves come highly recommended. I'd be nervous as a little Terrier living with a Great Dane running those 35" tires and the stock tierods.
Those big tires on 20" wheels don't have much give and lots of leverage.

I'm not sure just who corrupted who here. You were looking at one before I ever got serious. I think my first push this direction came from Bennie (mellowyellow). He sold his crew cab for an Avalanche. The last time that I talked with him ,before he disappeared, He was still liking it.
It is going to take a while before this fits me like the last. I am sure I am going to regret its size, but maybe that will not be that bad. I did really love my '73 Chevy 3/4T 4x4. Maybe this will work out as the compromise.

ckholloway · Post by **ckholloway** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 5:45 pm

All I know is, the more I drive it the more I like it. I think I have my tire choose narrowed down to either the nitro mud grappled, or back with the cooper discover stt like whats on it now. We shall see, I'm not in any huge rush for that just yet.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 6:46 pm

Is the 35X12.50R20 E 10 Ply Nitto Trail Grappler Tire still available? It looks like a better tread design for our terrain and may last longer.

Hankook DYNAPRO MT RT03 looks to be a similar tire. Greg at Newman's Tire should be able to get those. They do not look to have as much siping and might be slicker on ice. My experience with Hankook is that they will live a little longer than the Cooper STT for sure, but not as long as you might want. I fear they may chunk a bit in the shale and basalt too.

What about the Pro-Comp EXTREME A/T 35X12.50R20 That one is siped and might do well on the ice. The "peanut" tread blocks work well in the desert too. They have a 40k mile tread wear warranty. That speaks well to their longevity. Mark had a set of the ProComp AT on his Amigo. They were awesome looking tires! Probably not a long life tire though. Some older models had separation issues. I have no experience with these.

Not as aggressive, the Super Swamper / Interco Vortrac Tire 35x12.50R20 Looks like it might be a good tight tread option for lots of highway use and a little offroading. I bet it would be the longest lasting.

IMO, the Cooper STT would be off the table for the problems they had with their cases and the short tread life. The Nittos have a good number of people that like them. I have no first hand experience. The Mud terrains have too much room between lugs and while they might be sweet in the mud, I think they will get damaged by our rock and wear out way too fast.

Right now I like the Nitto Trail Grappler the best. It does look like they might be $200 more than other choices. That might be a deal breaker.

I will say that the Nitto Mud Grappler extreme terrain tires Have a price that is going to be hard to beat and a better tread design than the Mud Grapplers.

ckholloway · Post by **ckholloway** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:49 pm

I'm gonna have to say that all the tires you posted fall into my price range but I'm not really diggin the Hankook or the Interco. I was looking at the trail grappler but know nothing about it. The mud grappler I can tell you on a 3/4 ton dodge cummins brings about 40,000 miles. I had a buddy that was running them. I will agree the life span of the stt leaves alot to be desired and I know they had case problems in the past but I am being told that it has been taken care of. However it would be nice not to have to put tires on this pig every six months.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:19 pm

I'm with you on the Hankook and Interco tires. I have heard the arguments for longer life due to the close radial tread design. I am not really a fan though.

Avalanche with Trail Grapplers

The Trail Grappler looks to be designed after the tarmac / gravel rally tires. The aggressive side lugs and open outer lugs are more along the traction mud design. Likely to do better than some in wet conditions.

35X12.50-20 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T Tire ebay

If you want to drop down a little in height to tires just over 33" tall there are quite a few other options. The price drop is substantial as well. Those rubbing issues would also be gone.
305/5-20 would be just over 12" section width and close to 33 1/4" tall.

The Nitto Dune Grappler has a cool flamed tread design.
305/55-20 Nitto Trail Grappler M/T Tire Ebay
BFG TAKO 305/55-20

Keep in mind that IFS wears differently than a SFA "D" will. Heavy lug designs tend to cup. Our ball joints like a narrow tire better too. With those wheels and that lift a narrow tire is not really an option. It would just look silly. I do think you can drop to the 305/55-20 and be good though. You have a much better selection. That may say something? Mileage and performance might be better with the lower unsprung weight?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:44 am

Brule, have you taken weight into consideration with those Nittos? I don't know much about the tire sizes that you are dealing with but, they are extremely heavy in the 16" sizes and many shy away from them.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:52 am

I had not been checking the tire weights. Do Nittos tend to run heavy? He doesn't seem to get much of a break on weight. All the tires seem to be 10 ply load range E. I like the flex of a D range tire better and the weight savings. That may not be an option for him though.
In the size he has there are not too many options. Nitto has at least three different treads that I have seen.

He is running 35x12.5-20 right now. I have no experience with tires for 20" wheels. He has a little rubbing right now, hence my suggestion to drop a tire size to allow some articulation. I think 33" tires might offer both more choice and some room to flex a little. They are less expensive too.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:05 am

I'm considering the new DOT approved version of the successful off road General Grabber.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:54 pm

[jingle] "Sooner or later , you'll own Generals". [/jingle]

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 2:55 pm

HenryJ wrote:I had not been checking the tire weights. Do Nittos tend to run heavy?......

(deep voice)"Does this little piggy go wee, wee, wee all the way home?"

Yes, heavy enough that heepers get concerned about the COG (center of gravity for the benefit of some of our members) with the spare mounting location. Also have been known to prematurely wear out some name brand swing out tire carriers. You guys are dealing in 20s and I have no knowledge about that size wheel. Generally, the rule of thumb for off road tires and wheels is to have the tire 2X the diameter of the wheel. Obviously, this is thrown out the door with 20" wheels.

I would think the the D side wall rating would be best for an application like yours. I picked up some E rated Interco TrXus MTs from our USAZR2.com friend in Harlan, KY a couple years back. I couldn't get them to bulge at 10 psi after several trail rides. A club member suggested I run them at that pressure home on the interstate. I did (only 15 miles away) and then they began to have a noticeable bulge on later rides. I don't know if, the practice is detrimental to the tires or not but, it worked for me. I traded them off to the guy that did my 5.13 gear install and he is very happy running them on his tow rig now.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:12 pm

The avalanche is not light with a curb weight (lbs) 5,651. That is more than half a ton heavier than your rides for sure.
I have not weighed mine yet. I do see a little bulge in my load range D BFG TAKO, but they are a 70 series tire.
Corey has a 55 series sidewall and I don't imagine sidewall flex is ever going to be an option. I think a close eye to tread design and compound will be the best he can do.
He is not a hardcore offroader. Probably light on the weekend offroading too, although I may do what I can to change that

You just never know when they will dive in with both feet and end up spending lots of time offroading. Some even go a little crazy and end up "Heapers"

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:30 pm

Yeah Brule, and those that don't end up caught up in "avalanches". har har har

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:35 pm

roadrunner wrote:Yeah Brule, and those that don't end up caught up in "avalanches". har har har

Touche'

I differ to the higher class of those who remain loyal to the S-series crew cab

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:44 pm

HenryJ wrote:.........He is not a hardcore offroader...........I may do what I can to change that You just never know when they will dive in with both feet and end up spending lots of time offroading.............

I think that you should have said "time and money"

HenryJ wrote:.....Some even go a little crazy and end up "Heapers"

All I wanted to do was to stop people from asking me if my CC was 4 wheel drive.

I wish there was a way that those early PMs could have been saved from our exchanges 6 1/2 years ago.

I was ready to bail on the "forum thing" because, I was getting a little roughed up by the current members. I was recently retired from my main career and was starting a new one. The PMs are long gone but, I look back now and wonder where I would be if, I hadn't heard "did you ever think about getting into offroading?". Well, I'd probably have close to 50K to waste elsewhere but, it is the best bang for the buck that I can think of!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:13 pm

No where else can your wallet get emptied faster...ok , maybe the Bars and Strip Clubs do a good job of it too, but the friends you make are better..well maybe sometimes.
Maybe I just better quit while I'm ahead?
Good times you will remember forever! That's it! You can't say that about a Bar , Strip Club or even Woodstock!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 4:50 pm

Added a power port to the back end today:

My thought is that this might be used to power small 12 volt accessories. Specifically a RoadPro 12 volt portable stove
This might be very handy for having a hot meal ready when we want it and not need to stop and deploy a full on kitchen. I have been told it is the next best thing to a microwave for warming up food.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:13 pm

Looks like a handy thing to have. Might have to consider one.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:39 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:Looks like a handy thing to have. Might have to consider one.

I have a jeeper buddy that has had one for quite a few years. He thought it a silly birthday gift from his family. He likes to pre-prepare meals for his trips, and prefers "real" food. It is one of the things he has raved about each time he takes a trip now.
I had sort of blown off the idea many times.
The thought of tossing a few burritos in there and having them ready for lunch is appealing. My wife makes some real good enchiladas. Having a pan of those ready to go in the fridge and popping them into the oven just before we arrive at our campsite sounds very good to me. A quick hot meal ready by the time the tent is ready for the night.
I could see three or four pans in the fridge ready to go. That would be very convenient and allow us more time to enjoy things other than meal preparation.
Sounds good right? We will see.