BFG 33x9.5R-15

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:49 pm

Did they discontinue the BFG 33x9.50-15? Or am I just really bad at searching? I can't find them on 4WheelParts or Summit.

Does anyone know the part #?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 3:54 pm

In stock tirerack.com $147 ea + shipping

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:03 pm

HenryJ wrote:In stock tirerack.com $147 ea + shipping

Thank you sir.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:06 pm

Do you suggest ordering them in advance? Or should I wait until my truck is actually lifted?

As long as those will definitely fit after the 2" BL, Spring Kit and widening of the wheel well, I might as well buy them now. Right?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:26 pm

I would, to avoid a price increase. Just store them in your bedroom and dream.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 4:52 pm

If you have the cash and a place to store them out of the weather, then I would get them. That is about $30 less than the last one I bought.

Don't forget to check locally too. They might come close if they can get them and it is worth keeping the sale close to home. They may find that price hard to meet, and availability tough.

I am one of those who would probably get them and set them aside. It works as incentive and I tend to speed the process that way.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:25 pm

Why is everyone still wanting to run 9.5's when 10.5's fit to? Just curious because I scrounged(sp?) up the money to buy those flares, and I already have a body lift/shackles, so I will be ordering rims/tires as soon as I get the money.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 03, 2009 8:43 pm

kxracer wrote:Why is everyone still wanting to run 9.5's when 10.5's fit ...

Less weight than a 31x10.5, lower rolling resistance, better match to a 7" wide wheel (stock), better clearance, lower cost, to name a few.

HenryJ wrote:Narrow tire:
Less rotating mass- Easier to start and stop
Less reciprocating mass- Easier to dampen
Less wind resistance- Better economy and range
Less rolling resistance- Better economy and range
Easier to fit a taller/narrower tire with less lift
Lighter spare
Lighter tire
Lighter wheel
Less unsprung weight
Less weight and leverage on steering components, bearings, etc.

In terrain:
1. Less frontal resistance in mud and sand. Where is most of the increased contact patch (for flotation) gained? In the length, not the width. Tall and narrow allows for more length and greater deformation with less resistance.

There is an article on narrow tires that explains their advantages.

Is that one inch difference in width huge? Maybe not. If I can't run the 9.50s, I would probably go to the 10.5s

You are better to stay as close to 5" rear spacing as you can. Reed has 4.75" as do I. Ours work well.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 12:07 pm

How much backspacing is Reed running? Which style do you guys like more, D-windows or soft 8s. I think I like the D's more, but I don't like the red/blue stripe. Does anyone know of some steel beadlock rims with backspacing that will work? Thanks

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:36 pm

kxracer wrote:How much backspacing is Reed running? Which style do you guys like more, D-windows or soft 8s. I think I like the D's more, but I don't like the red/blue stripe. Does anyone know of some steel beadlock rims with backspacing that will work? Thanks

I am runnung 7" wide, 4.75" BS US Wheel Daytonas. Stay away from them. 2 out of 5 were not true.

Figure on $200+ per Bead lock wheel. Nothing near optimum BS until you go custom and then double that figure for anything close.

I lost a bunch of turning ability and I cut more inner fender that what the MML calls for.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:56 pm

I am looking at either 4.25 or 4.5 b/s depending on D-windows or soft 8s. Isn't Kermit running 4.5 b/s with 10.5" wide tires? I sent him a pm but he hasn't looked at it, so I'm assuming he doesn't get on this site anymore.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:39 pm

If, Kermit has configured his profile correctly then he should see a notice of your PM. This is a holiday weekend and he might be out of pocket.

I have really done an "about face" on steel wheels.

Let me ramble just a short time.

Steel is just plain heavy compared to OEM or aftermarket aluminum wheels. They are heavy from the "git go" and adding larger tires just makes them heavier.

I had a 33" tire mounted in my overhead Yakima roof rack and after a couple of "off camber" trails, I abandoned that idea quickly. It resides in the bed off my CC now.

It really boils down to what you are doing with your CC. If you are just into "mall crawling" or street running (there's not a thing wrong with that) then we are dealing with a different set of issues. We just need to know what your long term goals are so, we can assist you.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:00 pm

This one will probably see mostly cement, with some mud mixed in. There isn't a whole lot of off-roading to be done in Nebraska. I would love to go to Moab (like you guys do), but probably will never get to. I'm sure I will start to go off-road more after I own it for a while. My last truck I said the same exact thing as I'm saying now, and ended up drowing it twice, and catching air 3 times. It just takes some friends talking s#it, lol.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:17 pm

I don't have a clue how old you are but, catching air and drowning it (if, I am interpreting your response correctly) are the top two methods of causing severe problems for a rig. Drowning it will hydrolock the motor with toasted bearings being on the mild side. Jumping it will bend Dana 44 differentials, let alone the weak IFS set up that we have under the S-10s.

Did I misunderstand you or is your father willing to pay 3-4K a pop for such foolishness?

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:26 pm

NO, I did that crap in my old $1500 truck(that I bought). I didn't entirely 'drown it', I just got some water in the airbox which caused it to stall because I drove through muddy water to fast. The air I caught was probably 6 inches at the very most, and was actually on accident. I was climbing a hill that had a flat spot in the middle and I couldn't make it up. I gradually went faster and faster, and when I finally made it, I ended up catching a little air on the flat spot in the middle of the hill. (if that made any sense). That truck had a much tougher IFS system, and was quite a bit lighter then the s10. I also wasn't making payments on it. (I'm 17 btw, and I pay for 'most' of my own stuff)

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:48 pm

Calm down. Makes much more sense now that you explained the details. I do still want to stress the importance of not jumping a rig that you intend to drive later and the seriousness of deep water crossings.

I have spent to many nights with friends not wanting to abandon a hydroloced rig for an evening. They were toast and nothing will help them unless the motor is killed when it happens and you are willing to make several fluid changes in the field. Almost all will insist on cranking the motor and grinding that muck into the bearings.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:59 pm

Don't worry, I'm calm, and I totally understand you tryin to help me out. I try to take care of my stuff as well as I can. That truck (4x4 ram 50) still runs fine, other than burning oil. It did that when we bought it though, pretty sure it is valve seals.

So, does your truck rub the fenders with 33's, or is it the frame it is hitting? Both the rims I am looking at have less backspacing than yours, so if it is rubbing the fenders, I won't be able to run them, and will have to run the same rims as you. How did you end up making your rims work anyway? Thanks, you have been very helpful

EDIT:lol, reading my previous reply, I can see why you would think I wasn't calm. That last line deffinatly made me sound aggitated.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:05 am

I have not had a problem with the wheels hitting the frame. It is the lowest point of the rear inner fender well that will become a worthy opponent. The cab is also right there.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:11 am

Cool, so that is under a decent amount of flex right? Do you think I would be alright running 7" wide rims with 4.25" of B/S. I think the rear will be the same, but the front won't be. Do you think there is enough space? Thanks again

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:36 am

With 4.25" BS, I really do not have a clue nor wish to speculate at your expense.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:45 am

I will try to speculate as well as I can on my own, lol. Just one more thing, how much room do you have between the edge of your front tire and your front fender at full lock? It would stick out less than 1/2" more toward the fender. Do you think you have a 1/2" between your tire and fender? Thanks

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:45 am

Jeremy, another good friend, has worked the hardest that I have seen to make 33/10.50s fit a ZR2 (larger fender opening stock) w/o a BL.

Judge for yourself what needs to be done. The proof is in the pudding.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 8:36 am

Thats a nice looking blazer. How much B/S is he running? Arent you running 33x10.5s? I have skidz flares, body lift, and torsion crank/shackles waiting to go on my truck, which is basically the same stuff as you and kermit (but you have boise, which I would like to get eventually). I guess I will have to get the U.S. wheels if I can't get by with less backspacing. What did you end up doing to get your wheels to work? Thanks

EDIT: I don't think U.S. wheel even makes those 7" wide rims with 4.75" of B/S anymore, darn.

kxracer · Post by **kxracer** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:37 am

I was thinking, and I suppose I could go with the 9.5 with less B/S, rather than the 10.5 with more.

10.5 is 1" wider, equaling 1/2" more sticking out. 4.25" b/s will cause the tires to stick out 1/2" further than the 4.75" used in the mml. If you are able to run 10.5s, I should be able to run 9.5s with 4.25" of b/s. I think I figured that right.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Sep 05, 2009 10:14 am

kxracer wrote:Thats a nice looking blazer. How much B/S is he running? ..........

I don't know what his current BS is. Last I saw of Jeremy he had powder coated his stock wheels (PA3s?) and trashed them in Hot Springs, AR when we got together there.