2" BL is on
Moderator: F9K9
2" BL is on
Install went pretty easily. It took about 9 hours total...including an hour in the middle to run to AutoZone and buy a 10" socket extension...twice (always check your drive size before leaving for the store. )...so it was 8 hours of total labor, moving at a comfortable leisurely pace. The directions with the kit were pretty accurate over all...just a couple things that were either reversed or left out...but nothing that would cause problems. All common sense fixes.
I'm VERY happy with the looks after it's done. I didn't think 2" would make that much difference, but it surely does. My 30x9.5" tires almost look small now. Time for a suspension lift and 33's I guess.
I should have pics developed and posted by the end of the week hopefully.
Thanks to TNC for coming over to help too. And for driving my stupid a$$ to AutoZone twice for a socket extension.
I'm VERY happy with the looks after it's done. I didn't think 2" would make that much difference, but it surely does. My 30x9.5" tires almost look small now. Time for a suspension lift and 33's I guess.
I should have pics developed and posted by the end of the week hopefully.
Thanks to TNC for coming over to help too. And for driving my stupid a$$ to AutoZone twice for a socket extension.
Last edited by AZS10Crew on Mon Jun 23, 2003 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
I ordered it from Summit. Use part # PRA PA-192.
All the details Hobie had on the Mod info page are accurate. The only thing I might add is when you get to the part about disconnecting the fuel filler hose, skip that until you get to the point where you're lifting the driver's side of the bed. Have someone watch underneath and lift the driver's side of the bed enough to get a 2" block under. If the filler hose looks OK after lifting and adding the block, then you're good to go...no need to disconnect the fuel filler hose and add the extension.
Also...there's a second bracket on the driver's side brake line that attaches it to the frame. It's a few inches toward the rear from the one mentioned in the directions. Make sure you disconnect that too so that you don't stress or bend the brake lines.
Also...the differential actuator and positive battery wire box thing (and its associated bracket)that are mounted below the battery tray had enough slack in them to be mounted back in their original position...no need to drill new holes and remount them.
Another thing...don't waste time removing the ground strap that bolts to the frame that comes from the negative battery cable. There's enough slack in this also to leave it in the stock position.
***side note about the above tips...only remount the items in their original position and leave that ground strap connected if you have enough slack. Don't mount anything in the original position if the wires or connections are stretched tight. Use your own good judgement on that.
One final thing...make sure you have at least a 10" socket extension. It will make taking off the bed mounting bolts much easier. Also have a 7/16" and a 10mm small size open ended wrench. You'll need those to remove the brake line bracket from the oil pan.
That's about all I can think of. Everything else that was mentioned in the mod page was good.
All the details Hobie had on the Mod info page are accurate. The only thing I might add is when you get to the part about disconnecting the fuel filler hose, skip that until you get to the point where you're lifting the driver's side of the bed. Have someone watch underneath and lift the driver's side of the bed enough to get a 2" block under. If the filler hose looks OK after lifting and adding the block, then you're good to go...no need to disconnect the fuel filler hose and add the extension.
Also...there's a second bracket on the driver's side brake line that attaches it to the frame. It's a few inches toward the rear from the one mentioned in the directions. Make sure you disconnect that too so that you don't stress or bend the brake lines.
Also...the differential actuator and positive battery wire box thing (and its associated bracket)that are mounted below the battery tray had enough slack in them to be mounted back in their original position...no need to drill new holes and remount them.
Another thing...don't waste time removing the ground strap that bolts to the frame that comes from the negative battery cable. There's enough slack in this also to leave it in the stock position.
***side note about the above tips...only remount the items in their original position and leave that ground strap connected if you have enough slack. Don't mount anything in the original position if the wires or connections are stretched tight. Use your own good judgement on that.
One final thing...make sure you have at least a 10" socket extension. It will make taking off the bed mounting bolts much easier. Also have a 7/16" and a 10mm small size open ended wrench. You'll need those to remove the brake line bracket from the oil pan.
That's about all I can think of. Everything else that was mentioned in the mod page was good.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
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- Warnoffroad
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- Warnoffroad
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Re: 2" BL is on
AZS10Crew wrote: My 30x9.5" tires almost look small now. .
my 35s are starting to look small . Maybe it's time for a dana atlas 3 case an axle flip, some 12" leafs and some 42s.
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05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
Re: 2" BL is on
warnoffroad wrote:AZS10Crew wrote: My 30x9.5" tires almost look small now. .
my 35s are starting to look small . Maybe it's time for a dana atlas 3 case an axle flip, some 12" leafs and some 42s.
You're sick!
Kinda reminds me of a friend that had an old Toyota (back when they still had live axle fronts). He cobbled together several different lift kits and came up with something like 18" of suspension and 4" of body lift. Oh, and he put 44's on it. He couldn't connect the front driveshaft because of the extreme angles and he blew out the stock rear gears on a regular basis just trying to get it moving but man, did it look outrageous! I rode in it once. Very scary ride. It was extremely unstable on the street. Everything was flexing around so much it would barely stay on the road.
- Warnoffroad
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wow I would use super lift springs (very very stiff spring) that way I would have much body roll. Right now i have super lift springs (6") and hardly any body roll. But it still flexes like crazy
[size=75]02 ZR5 CC, SFA D44 front, D60 rear, 40" IROKs, np200 2nd t-case. SOLD
05 F-350 CC FX4 Diesel, 7" lift 37" toyos, 14.18 1/4 mile ET[/size]
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One more thing about the fuel filler hose, if it does not appear to fit when lifting the bed, check to see that the ground is not getting caught. I cut my fuel filler hose, but I think I wasted my time had I just disconnected and relocated the ground it would have fit stock.
Also, make sure you put the fan shroud back together before the air intake is reinstalled. Nothing is more frustrating than fishing out a nut from the fender well with a clothes hanger and a flashlight!
Also, make sure you put the fan shroud back together before the air intake is reinstalled. Nothing is more frustrating than fishing out a nut from the fender well with a clothes hanger and a flashlight!
[size=75]SOLD - 2" BL, BFGR 31x10.50 on American Racing Outlaw II Rims (15x7, 6" BS), 1.25" rear wheel spacers, 1" Torsion Bar Adjustment, Rear add-a-leaf, Westin nerf bars & tail light guards, Genuine Steel grill guard, Tinted Windows, K&N Filter - SOLD
New Ride: 2006 Chevy Silverado SS[/size]
New Ride: 2006 Chevy Silverado SS[/size]
Help with lift
I got my PA 192 kit today and am going through all the parts to make sure I didn't get shorted, and reading up on the instructions. I'm a little confused about the hose extensions.
I got 3 flexible rubber hoses in the kit. One is 6" long, 2" ID, and is red with a blue stripe. Another 6" long, 3/4" ID, and black (marked "Horizon 3/4" 200 PSI"). The other is 2" long, 1" ID, and black. They are all cord reinforced and high pressure.
What are these? I first thought they were the fuel filler extension and vent hose extension. But reading the instructions it appears these extensions are supposed to be metal extensions that are clamped inline.
I also see in the thread above that the hose extensions are possibly not needed.
Please help. Am I missing 2 metal tubes, and if so, what the heck are these rubber hoses for? I don't see them shown in the instructions. Thanks.
I got 3 flexible rubber hoses in the kit. One is 6" long, 2" ID, and is red with a blue stripe. Another 6" long, 3/4" ID, and black (marked "Horizon 3/4" 200 PSI"). The other is 2" long, 1" ID, and black. They are all cord reinforced and high pressure.
What are these? I first thought they were the fuel filler extension and vent hose extension. But reading the instructions it appears these extensions are supposed to be metal extensions that are clamped inline.
I also see in the thread above that the hose extensions are possibly not needed.
Please help. Am I missing 2 metal tubes, and if so, what the heck are these rubber hoses for? I don't see them shown in the instructions. Thanks.
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
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Yeah...you won't need those fuel filler hose extensions...more than likely. When you're lifting the bed, just have someone keep an eye out underneath to make sure everything looks OK. There should be enough slack in the filler hose to lift it 2".
Keep an eye on the fuel filler ground strap also...you may need to add an extension to that.
Keep an eye on the fuel filler ground strap also...you may need to add an extension to that.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
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a2b wrote:ya, lifting the body i did by myself....but the bed i had to use my wife for help.....
They come in useful every once in a while, huh?
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
AZS10Crew wrote:a2b wrote:ya, lifting the body i did by myself....but the bed i had to use my wife for help.....
They come in useful every once in a while, huh?
just once
[size=75] -HOBIE
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Re: Help with lift
I spoke to PA today. Turns out I have the right kit, but an old version of the instructions (98-01, 24 pages). They e-mailed me the latest instructions (98-03, 31 pages). It appears I have the right parts.Mike H. wrote:I got my PA 192 kit today and am going through all the parts to make sure I didn't get shorted, and reading up on the instructions. I'm a little confused about the hose extensions.
I got 3 flexible rubber hoses in the kit. One is 6" long, 2" ID, and is red with a blue stripe. Another 6" long, 3/4" ID, and black (marked "Horizon 3/4" 200 PSI"). The other is 2" long, 1" ID, and black. They are all cord reinforced and high pressure.
What are these? I first thought they were the fuel filler extension and vent hose extension. But reading the instructions it appears these extensions are supposed to be metal extensions that are clamped inline.
I also see in the thread above that the hose extensions are possibly not needed.
Please help. Am I missing 2 metal tubes, and if so, what the heck are these rubber hoses for? I don't see them shown in the instructions. Thanks.
If anybody wants the latest instructions, I can e-mail you the PDF that PA sent to me. It includes the ZR2, and manual transmissions.
Now out to the garage to start............
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
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- HenryJ
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Re: Help with lift
I'm more of a morning person, but I can understand your enthusiasm!Mike H. wrote:
Now out to the garage to start............
You WILL be working well into the "wee hours" of morning.
Well worth the lack of sleep though!
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
ya i did that too. i started on a friday night after i got home from work. i worked from 10pm to 3am.....and i was in a parking lot...i had ran a long ass extension chord from an apartment complex...sheesh!!!
[size=75] -HOBIE
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Re: Help with lift
[quote=]
If anybody wants the latest instructions, I can e-mail you the PDF that PA sent to me. It includes the ZR2, and manual transmissions.
Now out to the garage to start............[/quote]
Please send them I want to know what I'm in for
If anybody wants the latest instructions, I can e-mail you the PDF that PA sent to me. It includes the ZR2, and manual transmissions.
Now out to the garage to start............[/quote]
Please send them I want to know what I'm in for
Well, I quit for the night. It's after 9:15 now. I'm not quite that gung ho. I can see the pneumatic ratchet I bought this afternoon is worth its weight in gold! Zips things apart very nicely. Picked up an angled die grinder too, but hope I won't need it. Couldn't resist adding it to the collection though.a2b wrote:ya i did that too. i started on a friday night after i got home from work. i worked from 10pm to 3am.....and i was in a parking lot...i had ran a long ass extension chord from an apartment complex...sheesh!!!
I also see that PA is having me take off a lot more stuff than looks like is necessary to do this. When I spoke to them today, they did say they are very conservative.
More tomorrow..........
[size=75][url=http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mikeh3235/lst%3f%26.dir=/2002%2bGMC%2bCrew%2bCab-Spacers%26.src=ph%26.view=l&.view=l]Yahoo Photo Pages[/url]
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Re: Help with lift
Mike H. wrote:If anybody wants the latest instructions, I can e-mail you the PDF that PA sent to me. It includes the ZR2, and manual transmissions.
Now out to the garage to start............
Please send them to me I want to know what I'm in for pjssls@pacbell.net
Re: Help with lift
Send me an e-mail to mikeh3235@yahoo.com and I'll be glad too send the PDF in a reply. That goes for anybody else here as well.Pat wrote:Please send them I want to know what I'm in for
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- Conman
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Mike H. wrote:Well, I quit for the night. It's after 9:15 now. I'm not quite that gung ho. I can see the pneumatic ratchet I bought this afternoon is worth its weight in gold! Zips things apart very nicely. Picked up an angled die grinder too, but hope I won't need it. Couldn't resist adding it to the collection though.a2b wrote:ya i did that too. i started on a friday night after i got home from work. i worked from 10pm to 3am.....and i was in a parking lot...i had ran a long ass extension chord from an apartment complex...sheesh!!!
I also see that PA is having me take off a lot more stuff than looks like is necessary to do this. When I spoke to them today, they did say they are very conservative.
More tomorrow..........
Good Luck,
Let us know how it goes. You have an extra set of hands helping you right? It allways helps. What are you doing with your front tow hooks? If I do the body lift, I really don't want to cut my front bumper up. Did anyone fine a set of aftermarket ones that will bolt in there? I know someone said an older GM hook that points down will work.
Cheers,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
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Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
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- HenryJ
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Yes, that would be mineConman wrote: I know someone said an older GM hook that points down will work.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Well its 10:15am, and I'm about 3.5 hours total into it and finally to the point in the instructions where I start lifiting. And unfortunately I'm doing this by myself - my feet just held up one end of the back bumper while I took the last bolt from the other side.Conman wrote:Good Luck,
Let us know how it goes. You have an extra set of hands helping you right? It allways helps. What are you doing with your front tow hooks? If I do the body lift, I really don't want to cut my front bumper up. Did anyone fine a set of aftermarket ones that will bolt in there? I know someone said an older GM hook that points down will work.
Cheers,
Con
On top of being alone, I just got mortally wounded While I was putting the back bumper around the side of my house, I got attacked by a huge wasp nest in a location I've never had one, got stung on the right index finger (the most important one), and while running and slapping them off me I felt my hamstring go "pop". Now I can't straighten my leg and it hurts like heck. This better be worth it.
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Mike H. wrote:Well its 10:15am, and I'm about 3.5 hours total into it and finally to the point in the instructions where I start lifiting. And unfortunately I'm doing this by myself - my feet just held up one end of the back bumper while I took the last bolt from the other side.Conman wrote:Good Luck,
Let us know how it goes. You have an extra set of hands helping you right? It allways helps. What are you doing with your front tow hooks? If I do the body lift, I really don't want to cut my front bumper up. Did anyone fine a set of aftermarket ones that will bolt in there? I know someone said an older GM hook that points down will work.
Cheers,
Con
On top of being alone, I just got mortally wounded While I was putting the back bumper around the side of my house, I got attacked by a huge wasp nest in a location I've never had one, got stung on the right index finger (the most important one), and while running and slapping them off me I felt my hamstring go "pop". Now I can't straighten my leg and it hurts like heck. This better be worth it.
sheesh. they must be attack wasp sent over from s10forum.com to stop the body lift
[size=75] -HOBIE
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smokinjoe wrote:we should all go in there and start talking about bagging and slamming our crews and puttin on 24 inch spinners, with da switches
Werd yo.
I get injured in one way or another every time I work on my truck. Whether it's bruised knuckles from a body mount bolt that wouldn't budge or slipping off a bolt head and touching my forearm to the muffler, I always have "battle scars" when the project is complete. It just comes with the territory.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
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- HenryJ
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Two words....Safety equipment:AZS10Crew wrote:
I get injured in one way or another every time I work on my truck. Whether it's bruised knuckles from a body mount bolt that wouldn't budge or slipping off a bolt head and touching my forearm to the muffler, I always have "battle scars"
Gloves to protect the knuckles, hot sleeves to protect the arms, or a proximity suit maybe a helmet and full body armor, don't forget counter measures for the aerial attacks Am I getting a little carried away?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Well, I quit at about 5:00pm. The afternoon hurricanes set in for the 3rd day in a row. I could not leave the garage door up to work, so much rain was blowing in. I've got the lift in and tightened. I was working on the rear bumper and hitch when the rain set in. They are on, just need tightened. I'll start back in the morning. Finish the back, then move to the front.
The rear bumper side members from PA definitely appear weaker than the factory. I can see why they say don't tow with the bumper with their kit. I have the factory receiver so its not an issue.
Also I never cut the fuel fill line. PA did not include the right parts to splice into the lines. I released it at the top and did the lift. I reattached it, but it is sort of snug. I think I will have PA send me the part, or try to get a longer line locally. The vent line was plenty long. I did take it off at the top and unwrap it from the ground cable, which was wrapped around it.
More tomorrow.............
The rear bumper side members from PA definitely appear weaker than the factory. I can see why they say don't tow with the bumper with their kit. I have the factory receiver so its not an issue.
Also I never cut the fuel fill line. PA did not include the right parts to splice into the lines. I released it at the top and did the lift. I reattached it, but it is sort of snug. I think I will have PA send me the part, or try to get a longer line locally. The vent line was plenty long. I did take it off at the top and unwrap it from the ground cable, which was wrapped around it.
More tomorrow.............
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Loosen the bottom end that attaches to the tank also. If you split the difference it is not too bad.Mike H. wrote:
Also I never cut the fuel fill line. PA did not include the right parts to splice into the lines. I released it at the top and did the lift. I reattached it, but it is sort of snug. I think I will have PA send me the part, or try to get a longer line locally.
I didn't cut mine either, and it has been trouble free.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
HenryJ wrote:Two words....Safety equipment:
Gloves to protect the knuckles, hot sleeves to protect the arms, or a proximity suit maybe a helmet and full body armor, don't forget counter measures for the aerial attacks Am I getting a little carried away?
Gloves I had...still bruised my hand pretty good though.
Sleeves when it's 110* out? You're kidding right?
The only aerial attacks come from the abnormally large amount of pigeons in our neighborhood, but my BB gun takes care of them just fine.
[size=75]Mark
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]
[b][i][color=red]2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab[/color][/i][/b]
[b][color=blue]"There are no stupid questions, just stupid people."[/color][/b][/size]