HOW TO: Flaming River U-Joint Steering MOD

[raven2510]

HOW TO: Flaming River U-Joint Steering MOD

Years: 94+ S10/Blazer
Time: 30min-1.5hr
Cost: $70-100
Parts Needed:
Flaming River U-Joint # FR1746DD Summit JEGS
S-Series steering shaft (1st or 2nd Gen)
LockTite Thread Locker
Hacksaw or other tool to cut thin steel
Dremel or Cut off-wheel
11mm socket/wrench
½” socket/wrench
4mm Allen wrench
Flathead Screwdriver
Hammer
Drill and Bits

The purpose of this mod is to reduce the sloppy/loose feeling of the stock rag joint. After I did this mod it almost completely removed the play in the steering.

First you will need the Flaming River U-joint. It looks like this.

You then need to remove your stock steering shaft. You can access it through the driver side wheel well. You will need to remove a plastic shield that hides the Ragjoint. Its removed by sticking a flathead screwdriver in the crack in it and splitting it open.

Then you need the 11mm socket/wrench and remove the stock-retaining bolt. Then with a little force you need to pull the shaft towards the cab to get it off the steering box splines.

Then using a Dremel or Cutoff wheel you need to notch the ragjoint to remove it. Be careful not to cut the shaft…just the ragjoint. You may need to cut it 2 times.

Then you can hit it the ragjoint with a hammer and it will come off.

Then you will need the cut the shaft end where it flares out to get the u-joint on.
Here it is marked and then cut. You should be left with about ¾”.




Next you will want to slid on the u-joint and install the screws and then remove the screws and joint. This will give you a place to make dimples to give the shaft something to hold onto better.

Then drilled. Do not drill all the way through. Just enough to make a dimple.

Then reinstall the u-joint and apply Locktite and install the allen screws. Then apply Locktite to the screws again and install the provided nuts onto the U-joint and tighten.

Now just reinstall the shaft onto the truck the way you removed it. You will notice that the steering box splines have a flat spot on them…. that’s where the U-joints screws will go. Then apply Locktite to the Screw and tighten…. same goes with the nut. Then recheck your nuts to make sure you tightened them and your done.

Now you can enjoy the improved steering. I have had this Mod done for 3-4 weeks and have noticed now negative effects or binding of any kind.

Pics provided and mod originally done by:
s10cyncrvr – www.s10forum.com
blanz – www.s10forum.com

Tad

[HenryJ]

Looks like a good solution. Any links to where to purchase or recommendations?
Notice any increased vibration or noise with the rag joint eliminated?

[raven2510]

where to buy
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

http://www.jegs.com/p/Flaming+River/751990/10002/-1

no increased noise or vibrations. i do mostly city and gravel roads and noticed no increase. feels the same as before.

i edited the original post to include where to buy.

[killian96ss]

I have the same set up on my SS, but I used stainless steel Borgeson u-joints that have built in vibration reducers and I also used their stainless steel collapsible steering shaft.

Road "feel" is increased, but I have not noticed more vibrations or any problems running needle bearing u-joints in place of the factory rag joint.

Steve

[raven2510]

i love the feel. its like i just drove it off the lot new. the steering is tight like its supposed to be.

i encourage everyone to do this. or at least change out the original ragjoint with a new one. mine was so loose that it had at least a 1/4-1/2" of play.

[MoJoe]

Thank you for this write up, I was just researching tonight on how to fix this exact problem on the 04 CC I just bought. I love pictures

[MoJoe]

Just ordered mine from Summit, should be here by the weekend.

[raven2510]

sweet....let us know how it turns out for you.

[MoJoe]

sweet....let us know how it turns out for you.

Finished it up tonight. So I did the mod, a tune-up and some rear adapters...

The steering was super easy and would have taken a total of 30 minutes had I not done the tune-up. An easier way to get the rag joint off is to simply take a saws-all and cut right through the shaft with the joint still attached and simple knock off the the left over. I had the new joint on in less than 5 minutes this way.

It feels much better now, but I think my steering box is going Getting noisy.

[green02crew]

Did this last night. Was very quick and easy. Also straightforward. It made a difference but not drastically huge but still nice. I think this would best be combined with the quick ratio steering box, although I do not have that as of yet since I heard it was a pain in the a$$ to put on.

[_STUCKY]

Bump! These are the best 2 prices I found. Both just under $70.

http://autoplicity.com/products/39527-f ... Mgod5DYA1Q

http://discountperformanceauto.com/prod ... MgodxzEA6g

[adrenalnjunky]

Cheapest including shipping is on Amazon, if you have a Prime membership. $72.99 shipped.

http://www.amazon.com/Flaming-River-FR1 ... r+FR1746DD

[alntex]

Great writeup/photos. I am about to do a ragjoint repair/replacement on my 2002 CC with 2" body lift. All of the writeups I've seen so far have indicated it is pretty easy, but, I am concerned about how to get the shaft out of the truck. After separating it from the steering box, does it simply slide forward toward the radiator ? Does it require much effort and how much space is needed to get it out of the upper shaft? I presume the steering wheel should be locked and not moved during all this as well.
Any advice is appreciated. Alntex

[AVTekk]

Theres a good amount of room but not much thru the wheel well as the howto states. I like to pull the intake box out then you can access it easily. The box comes out with one hose clamp and one 10mm nut by the fuse panel, then just pops out. Keep the wheel locked, remove the through-bolt, then pry the shaft away from the box with a screwdriver. The shaft is collapsible so slide it up towards the firewall then once its clear of the box, just pull it out of the upper shaft. There is a piece of spring steel that keeps the shafts tight together, it comes out with the lower shaft and is held in place with grease it may or may not fall off, if it does just put it back on when youre putting the shaft back together. When you go to put the shaft back on the box you may need to tap it lightly with a hammer to work it down the splines. You may also need to unlock the wheel to get the splines to line up. Just dont spin the wheel around with the shaft off you will break the clock spring and turn on the airbag light.

[alntex]

Thanks very much AVTekk. That gives me more confidence to attempt the repair myself. The tips/advice are much appreciated. Alntex