Frame extension

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 11:34 am

Has anyone ever extended their crew cab to fit a 6' bed. I would like to put a step side bed on it and lift it. Comments welcome

Where would be the best place to cut.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:10 pm

You need to check out this truck : Gregg Pilatowski

He didn't build it, but it might be worth asking a few questions.

6ft bed

Another guy to contact would be AVTekk He did a low riding crew cab with a long bed IIRC.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:29 pm

This is a picture from the AVTekk website.

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:30 pm

Wonder why this was not an option from GM?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 5:38 pm

Why build a new chassis just for the Crew cab? We share the same chassis as the extended cab. There are some differences in the mounts , but that it about all.

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:50 pm

Man I hate it when this subject comes up. I too have dreamed about a truck like that, and I happen to have both a CC & a ZR2. Surely would be easier to put the bed on the CC as opposed to putting the CC body over on the ZR2. I just keep telling myself to forget it, parking is easier at the present wheelbase!

drperry · Post by **drperry** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 3:06 am

You could always do some fancy body work and extend the box...

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:23 am

Curiosity killed the cat......anyone ever come up with any technical information on doing this? Financially way out of reach, but what a thing to dream about!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:59 am

GM UPFITTER large pdf file but it has all the technical drawings and specs.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:15 am

Thanks Reed, great link. Um....unfortunately it is just technical enough to scare the be-jesus out of me even thinking about it..... quandry nipped square in the bud!

MoB · Post by **MoB** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:41 am

Where would I get a grill like the one on this truck......NO Bowtie??

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 3:16 pm

piece of cake. you want me to do it for you? it would be a custom job so yes it would be expensive for all the labor, but still really simple.

to do list:

extend the frame (either with other stock or with boxed tubing)
re wire lights
new drive shaft
relocate rear springs further back in order to fit in new truck bed fender wells

done, peice of cake.

turkeestalker · Post by **turkeestalker** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 3:43 pm

Sure it sounds simple......as long as you've got countless hours and lots of funds. Trust me I would love to do it, but I've not got the knowlege or where with all to attempt it, nor the funds. Some things are better left to my imagination.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:48 pm

turkeestalker wrote:Sure it sounds simple......as long as you've got countless hours and lots of funds. Trust me I would love to do it, but I've not got the knowlege or where with all to attempt it, nor the funds. Some things are better left to my imagination.

just start collecting.

keep searching for a free s-10 frame in your area, that you could use for tubing, plus it will have the stock shackle hangers. you should be able to pick up a wrecked frame for free.

you use the rearend you have and springs, thats free

find the right color of bed you want for a junk yard. i dont know how much that will cost. 500 maybe.

find a shade tree mechanic and throw him a 1000 bucks...maybe you could get it done for less than 2

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:31 pm

a2b wrote:...........................keep searching for a free s-10 frame in your area, that you could use for tubing, plus it will have the stock shackle hangers. you should be able to pick up a wrecked frame for free..........................

Junk metal is sky here. People will come to your house, give you a C-note and cart it off for you here.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Thu Aug 07, 2008 5:16 am

Just hear me out.

Couldn't you just take an old frame and cut out 18'' off the back. Weld them onto the rear of your frame. Remount all of the bed stansions and move the rear back to fit the rear wheel well. Remount the shackles and springs and place the box on. Wires and fuel line etc.

Would this be good enough. I have an old s10 frame, and a 6' step side bed from a 00 s10. Really thinking about this one but do not want to start on my DD before knowing everything.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:23 am

In theory yes. But you will be re-drilling lots of holes and I hope you are very good with a welder. There will be many many things to change. Don't forget if you move the rear axle further back you will need a longer drive shaft as well, not to mention you may need new cables, brake lines etc due to the length needed. It will be quite the process.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 07, 2008 7:36 am

The cut and graft might be better made behind the cab in front of the forward most mount. This might retain the long bed spring mounts. That way the bed mounts will line up. Some research into where the mounts mirror would offer a good choice on where the graft should be made.

You will also need to graft the fuel filler into the new bed, lengthen brake lines, longer e-brake lines. The length of the driveshaft might require installing a carrier bearing.

All the little stuff adds up.

jflatley · Post by **jflatley** » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:49 am

right you are, right you are.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 3:07 pm

jflatley wrote:Just hear me out.

Couldn't you just take an old frame and cut out 18'' off the back. Weld them onto the rear of your frame. Remount all of the bed stansions and move the rear back to fit the rear wheel well. Remount the shackles and springs and place the box on. Wires and fuel line etc.

Would this be good enough. I have an old s10 frame, and a 6' step side bed from a 00 s10. Really thinking about this one but do not want to start on my DD before knowing everything.

yes thats all you have to do plus the little things they mentioned. and i like how heneryj said to cut the frame behind the cab and put the other on, so you can retain the factory springs mounts and just rebolt the rear springs back up, plus the bed mounts will all be stock, plus the gas tank will probably fit in stock.

do it and take some pics

S10 · Post by **S10** » Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:33 pm

There is a new guy at work, that used to work for a company that made custom quad axle dump trucks (WOW!). He said, to cut the frame, 12" in front of the rear cab mount, at a 45 degree angle. Straightest part of the frame, on most pick-ups. Do the same with the donor frame, in the same area. Grind a V-pocket where the two frames were cut. Then weld the two frames together. Grind the welds flush with the frame. Make diamond shaped gussets with holes, to overlap the welds. The gussets will overlap, 12" on either side of the welds. Weld the gussets in place, incuding the holes. The reason the cuts, in the frame, are at a 45 degree angle and the gussets are diamond shaped, is to spread the load, out over the new frame, making it stronger. This is how, I was told, to do it.
Hope you can make since of this. I am still a little confused, on how it works. If I do this mod, I will have him, on this project.

2 Questions for you- Can the doner frame come from a 2WD S-10 or does it have to be a 4WD?
Other question- which is lighter, the fleet side or the sport side bed?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:27 am

S10 wrote:There is a new guy at work... He said, to cut the frame, 12" in front of the rear cab mount, at a 45 degree angle...Grind the welds flush with the frame. Make diamond shaped gussets with holes, to overlap the welds.

Sounds like he knows what he is doing. Never cut or weld straight across the frame. Cut one side in one direction and the other the other direction. Looking across they form an X. This will help with torsional forces. You will not be stressing the same point on both sides. If the opportunity is there add a L under or L over on the opposite side as the diamond. Bolt this in place using grade 8 hardware. Hot or cold riveting is not an option for most, but would be great if you have the option.

I can not say for sure, but I don't think that a 2wd frame is boxed at that point and might not match up as well. If it did I see no difference.

I have no idea which bed would be lighter. It might be close. Aren't the stepsides fiberglass bedsides?

S10 · Post by **S10** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:19 am

HenryJ wrote:I have no idea which bed would be lighter. It might be close. Aren't the stepsides fiberglass bedsides?

There is a stepside at work. I will ask the owner, if it is fiberglass.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:52 pm

S10 wrote:........There is a stepside at work. I will ask the owner, if it is fiberglass.

Just take a refrigerator ad magnet with you to check it out.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Sat Aug 23, 2008 2:03 pm

S10 wrote:There is a new guy at work, that used to work for a company that made custom quad axle dump trucks (WOW!). He said, to cut the frame, 12" in front of the rear cab mount, at a 45 degree angle. Straightest part of the frame, on most pick-ups. Do the same with the donor frame, in the same area. Grind a V-pocket where the two frames were cut. Then weld the two frames together. Grind the welds flush with the frame. Make diamond shaped gussets with holes, to overlap the welds. The gussets will overlap, 12" on either side of the welds. Weld the gussets in place, incuding the holes. The reason the cuts, in the frame, are at a 45 degree angle and the gussets are diamond shaped, is to spread the load, out over the new frame, making it stronger.

yes that is how you connect frames more or less..depends on what you are doing. no offense, if you didn't already know this, you might want to reconsider on this project as it may be over you head. if it was a trail-rig, then i would say go for it. but its not, i would hate to see you mess up your truck and then have to pay big bucks to a fab shop to fix it back up for you.

S10 · Post by **S10** » Sat Aug 30, 2008 10:06 pm

I got to look at the sportside, yesterday, The bed is all steel and another thing that I noticed, as the bed sides goes towards the tailgate, the bed tapers in. Why would GM do that?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:36 am

They all do. The front is nearly two inches wider. Must be an aerodynamic thing?

S10 · Post by **S10** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:35 pm

I talked to a body shop, that is near me. They gave me a quote of $450.00. I have to supply the bed and the rear frame half and I do the prep work. Remove the bed, gas tank, and driveshaft. If I do this, it might be next spring. I have to find a bed and frame. Question, does the frame have to be an extended cab frame or can a regular cab frame work? I am limited to what is avaliable. Also is there a driveshaft that can be had or do I need to lengthen that too?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:21 am

Lengthening the driveshaft is a given. You may need a carrier bearing as well. That shaft is going to be getting pretty long. I will guess that it will be a new custom built shaft.

Check the upfitters manual for frame dimensions. That will be your best resource as to which frame would be the best. The excab should be the same, but I don't know about the std cab.