Flat Head Screwdriver
5/16 box open.
9/32 Socket with Ratchet or Speed handle.
Wire Crimper or Pliers.
Tape.
SPECS:
2002 S-10 CC 4.3L, 4L60E, 3.42 G-80. 43,000 miles. Airbox mod, IAT mod. Otherwise STOCK.
This installation is just a guide. I WILL NOT be held responsible for improper installation and or damage to your vehicle. Follow the manufacturer's guide and make your own modifications to suit your taste.
I did it this way as it's mainly temporary until it gets warmer and I get the servo's and other parts. Then it'll get installed inside.
Got the Jet vs. the B&M due to 4 vs 2 settings and the housing is more in line with what i want. B&M just looked cheesy, the switch felt cheap, and the fact that on a 98 & up you have to shut down to change is not a plus.
Cost was $114.& change from Summit. $4 more @ Jegs. and a whole lot more @ JET.
This unit is temporary until I can get the Billet intermediate and Overdrive Servo's, boost valve and 1870 valve from PATC. I installed it a bit different from what the installation manual says but I got the same result.
1.) The clearance between the Trans and the body is a bit close and room to make splices is limited not to mention if you're not really careful you can end up burning the wiring through, so I decided to make the install completely on top.
2.) Jet has a diagram of the transmission control lines connector and specifies that the unit splices get made to lines "C" & "D" on the plug. Colors vary. Mine were Blue/Wht and Red/Blk. HOWEVER, and this is where the CHANGE IS. These lines travel directly up to the PCM and connect on PLUG 2 Connectors 6 & 8. turns out they were the same color although Jet says that some vehicles wires will vary. I wonder how many they've actually changed.
3.) Disconnect the Battery. 5/16 Box/open
4.) Disconnect the PCM from it's mount and remove the lower (RED) main connector. Screwdriver and 9/32 Socket
5.)Remove the GRAY Wire cover.
6.) Remove Wrapping tape back far enough to break out the two wires needed (No's 6 & 8 ).
7.) Using Scotch Wire connectors Crimp one of the leads from the Jet plus to one of the leads from the PCM. Doesn't matter which to which.
8.) Crimp the other lead from the jet to the remaining lead from the PCM.
9.) Tape wire bundle to cover.
10.) replace Gray cover on RED connector
11.) Re-connect Red connector to PCM.
12.) Install PCM to Mount.
13.) Using Velcro from kit, attach JET box to top of PCM (see pic).
14.) Turn knob on JET to POSITION 1 (all the way to the left).
15.) Crimp a ring connector to the black wire and attach to a handy GROUND with shiny metal showing.
16.) Crimp a blade connector from the kit to the RED WIRE and using one of the Fuse blades, find a fuse in the Underhood box that is "KEYED"....ie: one that is on and off via the key. Remove the fuse and determine which side is cold and attach the blade to the cold side. Install fuse and connect RED Wire.
Zip tie wires to looms to keep from getting hung up on rotating parts, or burned on hot parts.
17.) Connect battery.
18.) Test Drive.
POSITION #1 STOCK. NO CHANGE NOTED either @ part or Full throttle.
POS #2 What they call Stage 1. Shift's are moderately tighter than position 1 specifically in WOT. Slight improvement in PT shift quality.
POS #3 What they call Stage 2. Shift's in WOT are noticeable but NOT HARSH. Shift quality feels more like a THM 400 with an RV KIT. PT Shift quality is definitely noticeable.
POS #4 What they call Race Stage. HAVE NOT tested.
I did not notice any change in shift points.
I've used B&M's version in the past and wasn't quite satisfied with the results. This unit gives a wider range of change/choices, the workmanship is better, and for the newer than 98's you DO NOT have to shut down to change modes. The price is a bit more than double. Whether it's worth the difference is up to you. More choices is worth it to me.
So far so good.
Larry
You don't know HTML do you? 
Any chance you could email me the photos so I don't have the cardomain logo issue?
