Water in the axle/differential AGAIN!!
Moderator: F9K9
Water in the axle/differential AGAIN!!
I was recently driving my stock 2002 s10 crewcab home from a long trip and when i stopped to get some food I noticed that when I turned sharply at low speeds the rear tires were making some noises. It was almost like one rear tire would rotate and then the other one would rotate, and it was back an forth making some weird jerking movements. I know on this truck I have the locking differential and maybe I'm just being paranoid. The truck only has 50K miles on it and it seems to shift very smooth. I checked the tire pressure and they were about 48psi which is slightly above the recommended max psi. Could it be that the above psi in the tires be causing my rear tires to maybe skip/skid/spin as i turned sharply?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!![/b]
- 04crewvt
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The tire pressure is way high according to the placard in the door. Factory spec on my ZR-5 is 32PSI I run at 38 and can feel how much stiffer it rides at 48 you must feel every stone. As for the jerking were you on dirt,asphalt,wet/dry? It sure does sound like the locker kicking in.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
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- 04crewvt
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With a tight turn you can loose traction also that's why a differential is needed in the first place ,the inner tire and outer tire are moving at a significantly different speed and distance. I think you are good to go. I know with my old 95 with the Eaton posi I would sometimes feel it kick in when I cut it sharp in an intersection and gunned it.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
- F9K9
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I don't even know if, it is mechanically possible but, it sounds like your rear spider gears are frozen and your axles are locked. Sounds that you are describing are exactly like my Jeep after I had my rear diff welded. I don't think it is your tranny at all but, you better pull that rear diff cover off and take a look at what comes out. You might be in a world of sh_t!
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- 04crewvt
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Seems if the spiders were locked he would be dragging the rear around ever corner. Did you notice an issue at highway speed or just slow maneuvers?
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
- killian96ss
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Welcome to the forum mimoss.
It sounds like your (G80) locker is engaging/disengaging on sharp turns which is normal to a certain degree, however it shouldn't do this every time you turn a corner.
A wheel speed difference of about 200 rpm between left and right sides will engage the locker.
The first thing you should do is check your fluid level and even if it is fine I would still recommend changing the fluid and checking for water contamination while your in there.
If you do have some water contamination your differential vent line may still be in the factory location between the cab and bed which lets water in too easily.
If your vent line is in this spot it would be a good idea to move it to the highest spot under the bed where water won't be able to get in.
Steve
It sounds like your (G80) locker is engaging/disengaging on sharp turns which is normal to a certain degree, however it shouldn't do this every time you turn a corner.
A wheel speed difference of about 200 rpm between left and right sides will engage the locker.
The first thing you should do is check your fluid level and even if it is fine I would still recommend changing the fluid and checking for water contamination while your in there.
If you do have some water contamination your differential vent line may still be in the factory location between the cab and bed which lets water in too easily.
If your vent line is in this spot it would be a good idea to move it to the highest spot under the bed where water won't be able to get in.
Steve
Thanks for the welcome Steve!killian96ss wrote:Welcome to the forum mimoss.
It sounds like your (G80) locker is engaging/disengaging on sharp turns which is normal to a certain degree, however it shouldn't do this every time you turn a corner.
A wheel speed difference of about 200 rpm between left and right sides will engage the locker.
The first thing you should do is check your fluid level and even if it is fine I would still recommend changing the fluid and checking for water contamination while your in there.
If you do have some water contamination your differential vent line may still be in the factory location between the cab and bed which lets water in too easily.
If your vent line is in this spot it would be a good idea to move it to the highest spot under the bed where water won't be able to get in.
Steve
About the water contamination....About 6 months ago I noticed a leak that was nearly under my rear diff. I took my truck in to a mechanic and he stated that it was not my differential leaking it was water in my axle, some sort of gasket failed. So as he was changing the gasket I guess it looked like chocolate milk sludge spewing out of the axle so he had to flush and add fluid to it. He asked me if i had backed up to drop off a boat in the water. I said no. He was stumped by how much water was in there thogh. Would this vent line have filled up the axle?? Thanks for all the help
- 04crewvt
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Now we have a different picture. My guess is you did indeed have the vent line fill the diff with water, you could indeed be on the way to needing a new locker or gear set. My 95 had the axle seals fail and filled with water it required 2 new axles,ring and pinion as well as a new Posi unit to the tune of $1500.00. It would be a good idea to have it looked over by a shop that specializes in transmissions and differentials.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
- HenryJ
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"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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rear end
Sounds alot like what happened to me...I would take the cover off the differental and check out the side bearings, if they are damaged you should be able to tell, besides that, see if you have any metal in the differntal housing...thats a tell tell sign.
OK, here is the update (bad news). Sorry for the late update but I've been busy and my internet was down for a few days. OK I took my crew into the transmission shop and they said the reason my rear wheels were sometimes locking up on me was water in the axle/differential AGAIN!! This was the 2nd time I have had the rear axle fill up with water and this time it caused much more damage. In total I had a bad transfer case vacuum switch, right rear axle seal, new right rear axle and wheel bearing (left rear axle was bent somehow). It stinks because just 4 months ago I had the same problem (water in diff and axle) and the mechanic replaced the left axle seal and re-lubed differential ect. This guy 4 months ago also broke 3 bolts off of my differential cover, I was told by the last visit to the transmission shop. So in the last 5 months or so I have gotten water contamination in the axle and differential. So is it caused by the bad seals I had or from the vent line which is still in the factory position. I do plan on moving that line to a higher point between the bed, but I told the transmission guy about that vent hose position causing people some problems and he said that water should not be getting in that line because it is plugged up. Also, I never go off road or wading through water. So about this vent hose... has GM said or warned anyone of the problem?? I've never received any notices in the mail and I am the original owner.
Anyway thanks for listening and for your help!
Anyway thanks for listening and for your help!
- F9K9
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They was never a recall for the vent hose problem. There was a TSB (technical service bulletin) to the dealers concerning the issue. If a consumer came in with problems AND they were under warranty, the "fix" was to move the end from between the bed and cab to elsewhere! Whoever advised you there was no way that water contamination could occur in it's current location, should be drowned! If, you need the TSB then give me a couple of days but, get that vent hose moved, ASAP!mimoss wrote:............... I never go off road or wading through water. So about this vent hose... has GM said or warned anyone of the problem?? I've never received any notices in the mail and I am the original owner.
Anyway thanks for listening and for your help!
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- HenryJ
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Read the linked thread. GMs TSB is quoted there.
Trust us, relocate the vent. Water can be introduced from there. That line is not "plugged off" it has a vent cap that does a good job if it is oriented vertically. Ours is not.
Trust us, relocate the vent. Water can be introduced from there. That line is not "plugged off" it has a vent cap that does a good job if it is oriented vertically. Ours is not.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
OK so before I put another mile on my crew I figure I better relocate the vent hose. I took a look at it and with very little force the so called vent plug came off. So I can easily see how water could have been power sprayed in there causing my water filled axle 2 times. Because the vent plug was so loose I wrapped a sponge around the end of the vent hose and put zip ties around it. Hopefully this will add an additional buffer so water cant go directly down the hose. I will add pics of where I put the hose. I zip tied the hose up under the bed of the truck. I used the original hose. It should be clear from any water spray though. It is about 6 inches back from its original location which was between the bed and cab. Anyway take a look and thanks for all you help. I'm glad I found this site, just wish I had found it sooner.
Pic of the sponge and zip ties ect...
Here is a pic of the final location
Pic of the sponge and zip ties ect...
Here is a pic of the final location
- F9K9
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Looks good but, I'd change shops if, you need one again.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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- 04crewvt
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Vent placement looks good not to sure about the sponge since they hold water.
On a different note in which rust belt do you live? from the bed corrosion it looks like a northern vehicle?
On a different note in which rust belt do you live? from the bed corrosion it looks like a northern vehicle?
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
Green 2004 ZR-5 w/ too much to list here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2296465[/size]
I'll keep an eye on the sponge ect. I just was weary of how loose the vent plug was. I live in Michigan so the truck is no stranger to salt and crappy roads.04crewvt wrote:Vent placement looks good not to sure about the sponge since they hold water.
On a different note in which rust belt do you live? from the bed corrosion it looks like a northern vehicle?
- HenryJ
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That looks like it should help, although something that breathes easier and doesn't retain water would be a better choice. Foam or screen would be good. That cap is supposed to be loose. Air has to get in and out or you blow the wheel seals.
Many vehicles have nothing more than an open hose. I gather the vent caps off of GM trucks when I am at the salvage yards for installation on those.
Just be glad you don't have a late nineties ford. Their hose is in a crossmember that fills with dirt and water. No cap and mounted in the bottom so it funnels the dirty water right in.
Many vehicles have nothing more than an open hose. I gather the vent caps off of GM trucks when I am at the salvage yards for installation on those.
Just be glad you don't have a late nineties ford. Their hose is in a crossmember that fills with dirt and water. No cap and mounted in the bottom so it funnels the dirty water right in.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
My rear wheels are locking up again!!
Well it has been about six weeks since I had repairs made to my differential...My diff and axle have filled with water 2 times in the last 6 months. My last repair was six weeks ago and everything had been just fine until a few days ago. My truck is doing the exact same thing it did before the last repair. My rear wheels are locking up when I turn at low speeds. I had my wife drive behind me today and she stated that it was mostly the driver side rear tire that would just lock up completely as I made my turns. I took my truck to the place that repaired it last time and they just want to put in a new Eaton posi unit for over 1000 dollars even without looking at it. It has done this twice before now and it was working perfectly for the last 5.5 weeks. I did change the location of my diff vent hose too after the last repair (thanks to the info on this site). Anyway I took my truck home because I didn't want to pay 1000 dollars for more guess work to be done while a month later the same symptoms exist. Also I don't drive my truck a whole lot, since the last repair six weeks ago I have driven under 1000 miles. I'm just not exactly sure what to do so I'm here doing some research. I mean how can it be fine for a month and a half and then start acting up again? It really sounds like the fluid has been contaminated again causing these symptoms, but how could have that happened again?? Weird??