Opinions/Advice on Bazooka Bass tube or other sub suggestion
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Opinions/Advice on Bazooka Bass tube or other sub suggestion
Im looking for a nice bass setup inmy crew and im considering a bazooka tube. Does anyone else use one and if so how were the results? What would be the largest sze i could run...from my measurements i can only run an 8 inch but i could be wrong.
Edited title to be more descriptive. -W
Edited title to be more descriptive. -W
- HenryJ
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"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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- HenryJ
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The Bazooka is in
HenryJ wrote:I am really happy with what the 6.5 adds to my stock system.
HenryJ wrote:Not a chance. The 6.5" is tight.jeff024 wrote:I would really like to JAM the 8in behind the seat
HenryJ wrote:Not enough room. It has to be all the way at the bottom and even then takes a little squeezing to latch the seat.1337vending wrote:HenryJ, Do you think that you could put 2 of the 6.5" subs on top of each other behind the back seat?
HenryJ wrote:I'm happy with the one that I have. It barely fits behind the seat. There is no room for a bigger diameter.
If you remove the jack there would be room for two. They are amplified...
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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- quickbiker
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Depends on what your taste is. I really don't like the "boomy" reverberational base of the bazookas or other ported bass. My favorite is the tight sound of "aucustic suspension" speakers, but the efficiency is really bad, cause it takes allot of power to drive these type of great sounding speakers. Next is passive radiator type of suspension. The one I got is here. These are just awsome. If you really need some sound defining tight awsome base, this would be my next choice. But I get way more than enough with the first ones. Here's my install. Most people like Bazookas though, so that may be your choice. Just throwing my minority opinion out there. I'm of the old fasion type, when speakers where speakers, reproducing acurate sound without regard to power consumption. Nowadays, it's how much "boom" can virbrate the car apart.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
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- 1337vending
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I think I just found the sub to buy instead of the bazooka...Thanksquickbiker wrote:Depends on what your taste is. I really don't like the "boomy" reverberational base of the bazookas or other ported bass. My favorite is the tight sound of "aucustic suspension" speakers, but the efficiency is really bad, cause it takes allot of power to drive these type of great sounding speakers. Next is passive radiator type of suspension. The one I got is here.
[size=75]2003 Indigo Blue Crew Cab - EFILive custom tune, K&N filter, Magnaflow Exhaust, Rear sway bar, ZR5 wheels w/ BFG 30x9.5x15 AllTerrains
Future mods:
Single 6.5" Bazooka behind the backseat[/size]
Future mods:
Single 6.5" Bazooka behind the backseat[/size]
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- HenryJ
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It doesn't have one built into it? Mine does.huntsman2002crew wrote:i went out a bought a 6.5 inch bazooka tube but am yet to buy an amp...
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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- quickbiker
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You'll really like the 180 deg phase out. I was amazed this feature is still around. I had it 20 years ago with an awsome system I installed. If your ears are acute to good sound, this feature is a must. This is the resinating freq inside a vehicle, and to block it is just amazing to the ears!1337vending wrote:I think I just found the sub to buy instead of the bazooka...Thanksquickbiker wrote:Depends on what your taste is. I really don't like the "boomy" reverberational base of the bazookas or other ported bass. My favorite is the tight sound of "aucustic suspension" speakers, but the efficiency is really bad, cause it takes allot of power to drive these type of great sounding speakers. Next is passive radiator type of suspension. The one I got is here.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
I just ordered one of these off ebay. I haven't been able to find a 10" sub that will fit the way I want it to so I gave up.1337vending wrote:I think I just found the sub to buy instead of the bazooka...Thanksquickbiker wrote:Depends on what your taste is. I really don't like the "boomy" reverberational base of the bazookas or other ported bass. My favorite is the tight sound of "aucustic suspension" speakers, but the efficiency is really bad, cause it takes allot of power to drive these type of great sounding speakers. Next is passive radiator type of suspension. The one I got is here.
- quickbiker
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What aboutthis one? It has a 10".
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
Well got it installed yesterday after work, well thrown in is more like it. I fought to try and get the power wire through the wiring harness on the drivers side but couldn't get my metal wire to poke the whole way through. So I ran it through the door jamb till it warms up or blows the fuse due to a bare wire. I used the low level RCA adapter from my 2004 Sierra to hook on the speakers. Being a 6.5" sub I wasn't expecting much. I must say it performs better then I expected. The stereo now sounds like a high end factory system. It fills in the low end that was missing before.
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run the wire through the passeger side....where the atenna wire come in the cab. take the trim off the front passenger door and fold the carpet back and you will see a rubber grommit with the atenna wire comming in.....remove the grommet and run your power wire to the battery and put the grommet backin place.
MTX Thunderform
Here's an easy solution for big bass. I got a used MTX Thunderform box for a Standard Cab S-10, for cheap off Ebay.
Was a tight fit, so I removed the plastic back wall cover for a bit more room. Now the Crew Cab bumps nicely!!
No problem getting to the jack. Had to remove jack cover to install the amp, but I think I could remount the amp so the cover would fit, if I cared enough.
Only problem, adding more bass must of knocked stuff loose, so I gotta spend a weekend chasing down mystery rattles
[size=75]2003 ZR5, 6" Superlift, cut out flares, step rails, 1.5" rear spacers, 15x8 Pro Comp 1079 wheels w/ 3.75" BS, 33/12.50-15 BFG AT-KO tires[/size]
- doughboy5499
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Is this a 10 inch sub? I wonder if they make a smaller size than the one that you got so you wont have to take apart the back panel. This sub option sounds good but, the bazooka sounds like it actually fits a little better. I been looking around not sure what I am going to do yet.
[size=75]SOLD 2001 Red Sonoma CC Billet grille, nerf bars, Tek-Style tonneau, Silverstars, air box mod, K&N, Pioneer DEH P7700MP, Ventvisors, weather-tech floor mats, Rancho RS5000, 15% window tint
FOR SALE 2001 black Ford F-150 xlt 6" Fabtech susp. lift. 3" Body lift. MT wheels, Durango 315/75/16 tires, Pioneer DEH7700MP, Ventvisors, tint, hood scoop(bolt on), tool box, westin brush guard[/size]
FOR SALE 2001 black Ford F-150 xlt 6" Fabtech susp. lift. 3" Body lift. MT wheels, Durango 315/75/16 tires, Pioneer DEH7700MP, Ventvisors, tint, hood scoop(bolt on), tool box, westin brush guard[/size]
Yeah that's a 10". I don't know if there's a smaller version, maybe one is available from another manufacturer.
You could probably do the same with any wedge style box that would fit a regular cab S-10.
It actually fit with the back panel in place but I had to push hard on the seat to get it to latch. No big mods needed, just pull off the plastic panel. You can't hardly tell the difference with the seat in place cause the seat covers it up.
I'm very happy with the results. Simple solution, minimal labor, easily reversible & massive bass.
You could probably do the same with any wedge style box that would fit a regular cab S-10.
It actually fit with the back panel in place but I had to push hard on the seat to get it to latch. No big mods needed, just pull off the plastic panel. You can't hardly tell the difference with the seat in place cause the seat covers it up.
I'm very happy with the results. Simple solution, minimal labor, easily reversible & massive bass.
[size=75]2003 ZR5, 6" Superlift, cut out flares, step rails, 1.5" rear spacers, 15x8 Pro Comp 1079 wheels w/ 3.75" BS, 33/12.50-15 BFG AT-KO tires[/size]
- quickbiker
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Yea, he's talking about right here. I poked a new hole with a philips driver. It's leak proof and protects the wire.ejxjohnson wrote:run the wire through the passeger side....where the atenna wire come in the cab. take the trim off the front passenger door and fold the carpet back and you will see a rubber grommit with the atenna wire comming in.....remove the grommet and run your power wire to the battery and put the grommet backin place.
[size=75][url=http://outsideventure.com/s10crew/]01 S10 Crewcab - SAS'd[/url][/size]
Re: MTX Thunderform
I llike it. I just got a alpine head unit, which I hope to install this coming weekend, I am now searching for one of these. The kenwood sub sounds great for what it is but I am just used to more. I have only found a amped mtx box available through MTX and I aint paying $600 for that.ZR5OnIt wrote:
Here's an easy solution for big bass. I got a used MTX Thunderform box for a Standard Cab S-10, for cheap off Ebay.
Was a tight fit, so I removed the plastic back wall cover for a bit more room. Now the Crew Cab bumps nicely!!
No problem getting to the jack. Had to remove jack cover to install the amp, but I think I could remount the amp so the cover would fit, if I cared enough.
Only problem, adding more bass must of knocked stuff loose, so I gotta spend a weekend chasing down mystery rattles
Well I finally got my sub, amp and deck installed. For whatever reason my seat wouldn't latch like ZR5OnIts could. I had to relief cut the sheet metal around it to allow it to go back to latch the seat. The 10" MTX Thunderform is powered by a Kicker ZX400.1 Class D amp off of a Apline CE-9852 Deck/ERE-G180 EQ.
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Next will be the dash speakers when I get ahead on bills. Anyone recommend any? I really rather just run them off the head unit if I could
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Next will be the dash speakers when I get ahead on bills. Anyone recommend any? I really rather just run them off the head unit if I could
Looks tight! Nice job. My setup throws way more bass than I need, so I'm sure you'll be happy with yours. I found that the back wall vibrates to the bass, so my next step is to cover the back wall with some Dynamat or equivalent to reduce the rattles. Enjoy!
[size=75]2003 ZR5, 6" Superlift, cut out flares, step rails, 1.5" rear spacers, 15x8 Pro Comp 1079 wheels w/ 3.75" BS, 33/12.50-15 BFG AT-KO tires[/size]
- doughboy5499
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Now with such a tight fit with these boxes and thunderforms, When the speaker "hits" is there a problem with the articulation of the speaker. Does it hit the back of the seat and distort it.
[size=75]SOLD 2001 Red Sonoma CC Billet grille, nerf bars, Tek-Style tonneau, Silverstars, air box mod, K&N, Pioneer DEH P7700MP, Ventvisors, weather-tech floor mats, Rancho RS5000, 15% window tint
FOR SALE 2001 black Ford F-150 xlt 6" Fabtech susp. lift. 3" Body lift. MT wheels, Durango 315/75/16 tires, Pioneer DEH7700MP, Ventvisors, tint, hood scoop(bolt on), tool box, westin brush guard[/size]
FOR SALE 2001 black Ford F-150 xlt 6" Fabtech susp. lift. 3" Body lift. MT wheels, Durango 315/75/16 tires, Pioneer DEH7700MP, Ventvisors, tint, hood scoop(bolt on), tool box, westin brush guard[/size]
Mine does hit the seat I think but hasnt hinder the performance but I wanna finish cutting the lip out when I have time to get it back alittle more. I ran out of cutting wheels for my dremel. LOL I just cut it enough to get the seat to latch. Mine has the stock MTX sub in the box which must be a shallow sub because it doesn't move nearly as much and I am used to. These boxes are worth the money (if you can find them on ebay cheap). But you lose all your storage spacedoughboy5499 wrote:Now with such a tight fit with these boxes and thunderforms, When the speaker "hits" is there a problem with the articulation of the speaker. Does it hit the back of the seat and distort it.
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Nice setups everybody!!
I am torn on what to do. I want some bass but I am not sure all those powered subwoofer setups will do me. I used to have nice systems back in my day and am worried I will get that hungry for loud again. I don't think those will do it.
I am thinking about just building a wedge box and trying once of those shallow woofers. They seem pretty popular anymore. JL Audio (whom I am a HUGE fan of) just came out with one soon to be released.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/jlaudio_pages.php?page_id=213
That and I know that Pioneer and Rockford Fosgate have them out too.
I am torn on what to do. I want some bass but I am not sure all those powered subwoofer setups will do me. I used to have nice systems back in my day and am worried I will get that hungry for loud again. I don't think those will do it.
I am thinking about just building a wedge box and trying once of those shallow woofers. They seem pretty popular anymore. JL Audio (whom I am a HUGE fan of) just came out with one soon to be released.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/jlaudio_pages.php?page_id=213
That and I know that Pioneer and Rockford Fosgate have them out too.
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Alright people, what did y'all do as far as mounting the amps? Did you drill right through the rear wall of the cab? I was looking back there, but it seems to only be single thickness unless I remove the upper plastic panel. If I use sheet metal screws will I get water inside??
[size=75]I didn't do it, it was already like that when I got it.[/size]
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Double wall underneath the plastic. I only drilled through the inside layer. When I sale the truck the plastic will cover all the cutting and drilling I did.border man wrote:Alright people, what did y'all do as far as mounting the amps? Did you drill right through the rear wall of the cab? I was looking back there, but it seems to only be single thickness unless I remove the upper plastic panel. If I use sheet metal screws will I get water inside??