Wiring PIAA help for 525s

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:26 am

I bought a set of PIAA 525s with both fogs and driving lights in one assembly. Now I just need to get them wired in and mounted up.

The directions look weak for mounting. Coming out of the lights there are two plugs...one goes to the main wiring harness and the other uses a secondary wire to tap into the auxiliary lights with cheap blade clips. Does anyone have a better solution than the blade clips?

I am also looking for the best advice on the wiring part...from inside, through the firewall and in the engine bay. How have you other guys done it? Do you have pics? Where did you mount the switches inside? Thanks,

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 4:55 am

I brought my wires through the firewall....it was pure hell without a body lift. The switch, I located it under the headlight/dimmer switch. I used the splice and electrical taped the connection.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 5:15 am

Antenna grommet on passenger side is relatively easy taping the wire to a welding rod or straightened metal clothes hanger.

Post by **Walt** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:14 am

One bit of advice. Run power and ground under the hood. No need to get through the firewall with those. When you get ready to run the wire for the switch in the cab, run the ground instead of the hot wire. This will prevent any major problems if something were to nick that wire at the firewall.

If you're using a relay, just take 85 and 30 to the battery (make sure it's large enough wire since 30 is the source).

On a double pole, double throw relay, you'll have 87 and 87a as the outputs. One is closed when the switch is on, the other is closed when the switch is off. You'll want to try them and run your 12V+ wire to your lights from the one that is closed (working) when the switch is on.

Run one wire from 86 to the switch in the cab, and then from the switch in the cab, run another wire to a good ground.

From there, just ground your lights to a good local ground, and you're done.

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:56 am

there is a fuse panel in the engine compartment on the left side on top of the wheel well...there is a hot post there for your hot wire,,,, grounding can be done anywhere by the panel.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:34 pm

Thanks for all the good advice.

We are planning on doing the wiring on Sunday. Would appreciate it if someone might be able to post some pics before then.

Who has experience hooking the extra wire to the auxiliary lights with the blade clips? Do you know a better way?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 7:55 pm

A little reading to do: Power Wire Help , Modding the wiper / hatch release switch , Wiring Aux. Lights into Stock Fog Lights , Adding an accessory power source

Post by **Walt** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:24 pm

I'm on dial up, so I don't know if any of the sources Brule linked to have this, but here is a safe, clean way to get power. Look for your fuse box under the hood. It'll be on the driver's side. Attached to the front of the fusebox, you'll notice a plastic cover that sticks out. Pull straight up on that cover and it'll reveal a wire with a ring terminal attached to a post. This is a direct line from the battery I believe. Just crimp a ring terminal onto the end of your power wire from the lights, and slide it over the post and put the nut back on. Make sure you get a ring terminal that will fit. They can be bought at Wal-Mart or any auto supply store. If you can't find one with a big enough hole, cut the ring in the middle and carefully use a pair of pliers to bend the two halves outward until it's big enough to fit.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:41 pm

I found the grommet inside the truck. However, when I go to the engine compartment to see where the antenna wire is coming out...what I see is a big black box:

black box

How do I get to where the grommet is from the engine bay? Do you guys have this thing also?

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:57 pm

That is your AC condenser housing - the grommet comes out just underneath it if you push the wires through using the coathanger method you'll eventuallyget your wires through.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 9:01 pm

heres a pic from when I was replacing my heatercore - this is with the passenger side inner fenderwell removed - you can see the plug plainly here.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 4:43 am

Thanks for the PIC. It helps.

The PIAA switch has small plugs on it that plug into small plugs on the wiring harness. How do I get the wiring harness through the grommet with those small plugs on it? Do I need to remove the condensor housing? Can I do that without damaging anything?

These are the plugs that have to feed through the firewall. How do I get them through the firewall?

These hook to battery terminals

These hook to lights

These need to be mounted somewhere in engine bay. Where and how should I mount them?

Thanks,

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 5:42 am

If your kit came with a relay then you only need 1 wire coming from your switch to go through the firewall and on to your relay which should be mounted close to your battery. You'll have to have a fused hot wire to the switch.

An alternative, which I admit not being familar with, is to pick up a harness at wallyworld that eliminates any wires going through the firewall and uses a remote to turn on your lights. Since you have two in one type lights it may not work for your application.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:16 am

I have pics of the kit in my response above. Can someone please help me fix them so they work?

Thank you,

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:31 am

might not want to remove the condenser housing - as it requires this to be done:

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:42 am

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:How do I get to where the grommet is from the engine bay?

It is easiest to see from the right fenderwell. Take off the wheel and lift the rubber flap to see it.

These are the plugs that have to feed through the firewall. How do I get them through the firewall?

You need to release the wires from the connector, tape them and pull them through. Or pull the grommet out of the firewall, cut it and slip your wire through before reinstalling the grommet. That will work if they are long enough.
If they are too short, you may need to extend them. Soldering and heat shrink is the best way to make a new connection for extending.

Read the links that I posted and you will see where to attach for power, good places to mount relays, etc.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 11:35 am

For the parking lamps there are red, black and gray wires that go to the bulb. What are these wires?? Could someone explain to me what the red is for, what the black is for and what the gray is for??

According to the directions I am supposed to "splice the power wire to a source that will give them a desired function (parking lights, but I don't which wire to tap into (red, black or gray))" Working on this right now. If anyone could respond, I'd GREATLY appreciate it

Thanks!

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 1:54 pm

without seeing the instructions it's relatively impossible to tell exactly what they mean.

to answer your question, it sounds like the relay for these lights are wanting you to tap a 12V lead that is only powered when the parking lights are on. There should only be 2 wires going to the parking light bulb (Maybe 3 if it is also your turn signal). Use a digital multimeter and figure out which of those is the 12v+ (when the parking lights only are on). Tap into that for what your relay is needing. The purpose of this is to make sure that your driving lights will only power on when the parking lights are also on - this is a standard wiring setup for lights like this to make sure that the driver doesn't run fogs without your normal lights (against the law in most states.) Actually legally,in most states, you can't run any auxilliary lighting when there is no fog, snow, or other inclement weather present. At least not on a public highway/road.

I'm assuming from a google search that these 525's are high output - at least 55watt or more. that means your power wire needs to go directly to a high capacity 12v powersource. (Battery or the 12V terminal in the fuseblock - Henry has posted links to the 12V terminal in his posts above.)

I hate to sound this way, but if you're having trouble understanding the wiring schematics that came with the lights (PIAA being one of the best names in the business, and the google search I did listing the 525's in the $300 range??) I would expect the installation manual to be relatively good.

If you don't understand the wiring schematics or relays, can't use a digital multimeter to test wires to find out which does what in your factory wiring harness, and have little to no 12V wiring experience - then Stop. Wait. Find someone who does know what they're doing to help and teach.

Heck take everything apart, and take pictures and post them on here - take a picture of the instructions and post those - we might be able to help you then. As it is, everything we can offer is a "best guess". I would much rather you have to go without some auxilliary driving lights, than short out your entire parkinglight, driving light system.

Car audio and accessory shops could wire these to your truck in a heartbeat - probably around $50 labor.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:13 pm

adrenalnjunky wrote:...If you don't understand the wiring schematics or relays...Stop. Wait. Find someone who does know what they're doing to help and teach.

Amen, "More Streetrods burn up than ever get wrecked"

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:30 pm

raleighblazer2.......if you were closer to kentucky...i'd say come on over and i'll hook up the lights for ya!!!! you are asking the right questions, though!!!

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Mon Nov 07, 2005 11:31 am

Yes, the 525s are expensive. Unfortunately, all $250 got me was minimal instructions. I can email the file to someone to look at. It is really little.

Thanks,

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:26 pm

Lights are all wired up inside through to the engine bay.

They are mounted up to the outside too:

PIAA 525s on Bumper Thumper

Now I just need to figure out which wire to hook up to on my truck. Could someone please help me with these directions? Would anyone be able to help me if I email them?
The directions I have are in a PDF file. Is there an area of the site I can post them up?
Thanks,

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:25 pm

email them to chris@(nospam)adrenalnjunky.com

I'll take a look at them

of course take the (nospam) out of the email address.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:28 pm

It would also help if you could post a pic of the wiring /switches/relays that you have, and what you have coming out of the lights as they sit right now.

Do you want these to be operated:
a) Only when you turn a switch on, regardless of the ignition switch, or other lights on the truck.

b)Only when the ignition is on (Can't have them on with the keys out of the truck)

c)Only when the parking lights and/or headlights are on?

if c) high beams only, lowbeams only, or both.

just curious

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 4:13 pm

Chris,

I emailed you the PDF and some pics of the wiring harness. My goal is to have these wired up legally for the state of NC. Not sure exactly what that is though.

Thank you for your help,

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:17 pm

Here is a link to a wiring diagram for the lights that someone posted in another forum:

Light Wiring Diagramwith Factory Fog Lights

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:47 pm

NC laws

sec. 20-130 Additional permissible light on vehicle..............(b) Auxiliary Driving Lamps. -- Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front, and every such auxiliary driving lamp or lamps shall meet the requirements and limitations set forth in G.S. 20-131, subsection (c)

sec. 20-131 Requirements as to headlamps and auxiliary driving lamps.

(c) Whenever a motor vehicle is being operated upon a highway, or portion thereof, which is sufficiently lighted to reveal a person on the highway at a distance of 200 feet ahead of the vehicle, it shall be permissible to dim the headlamps or to tilt the beams downward or to substitute therefor the light from an auxiliary driving lamp or pair of such lamps, subject to the restrictions as to tilted beams and auxiliary driving lamps set forth in this section.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:50 pm

So, in English, this translates to...????

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:52 pm

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:So, in English, this translates to...????

I've done my share

translator, I am not

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:54 pm

LOL.

Just trying to figure out which one of these the above legal speak describes:

a) Only when you turn a switch on, regardless of the ignition switch, or other lights on the truck.

b)Only when the ignition is on (Can't have them on with the keys out of the truck)

c)Only when the parking lights and/or headlights are on?

if c) high beams only, lowbeams only, or both.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:58 pm

He was asking for what you preferred is all

Would you be prone to forget to turn them off if wired hot full time?

Are there times you want to turn them on without engine running or a key.

How do you want it? Based upon your decision on preferences will aid in telling you how to wire it up.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:07 pm

As to translating that law. It has not been updated since '97. I read it as two extra lights are allowed. It does not say two extra illuminated but just addtional lights. I don't know what the law enforcement atmosphere is in NC now. I was detailed there briefly in '87 and your Highway Patrol were pretty strict back then. What do you see running the roads now?

Chances are if you see rigs with more than 2 extra lights mounted running around then all the cops are worried about is what is illuminated on the blacktop.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:26 pm

I am sure that there are vehicles with more than two lights.

Regarding the question about the lights, I would like them to be able to be on with the engine on or off.

I guess I would like to be able to turn them on independent of what lights are on...parking, headlights, or high beams.

How do the rest of you have yours wired up? What do you think would be the best way for me to do it?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:35 pm

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:I am sure that there are vehicles with more than two lights.

Regarding the question about the lights, I would like them to be able to be on with the engine on or off.

I guess I would like to be able to turn them on independent of what lights are on...parking, headlights, or high beams.

How do the rest of you have yours wired up?

Then you want them wired "hot" or "direct". Did you ever run the wire from the relay near the battery into the cab?

If you did, then all you need to do is splice into your existing wiring

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:45 pm

The PIAA switch is mounted in the cab and wired through the rubber grommet in the firewall into the engine bay. The relays and the two battery terminal wires are sitting in the engine bay waiting to be hooked up.

The wire going directly to the lights that we are discussing needs to be connected to a power source is behind the grille right now.

I can email you the PDF with PIAA instructions if it helps.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 6:49 pm

Adding an accessory power source

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:02 pm

Okay, so I gather that what you are suggesting is hooking the wire to the stud in the fuse box in the engine bay. Does it need a fuse put into it?

What about wiring it up to the parking lamp wire? Then it would be on when the parking lamps are on. If I wired it to the parking lamp wire wouldn't it have a fused connection then?

I am weak in the electrical area as you can tell. That is why my other project (adding the 12v outlets) is giving me such headaches...learning as I go.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:06 pm

The stud is fused.

The park light wiring will not handle the additional load and only function when the park lights are on.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:12 pm

HenryJ has the ball

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:14 pm

TAG...You're in

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:36 pm

Spiking it back to you over the net...

Did you receive the PDF f9k9? Not sure if it will help explain at all. I think the directions they give are weak.

HJ you are definitely very knowledgeable. I think you have the most customized rig in this forum. I bet it is awesome in person.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:01 pm

I did not check to see if I got it

I have given you the best advice that I can with my limited electrical expertise. I would, if I was you, wait to see what Chris can come up with to assist you or just bite the bullet, do a little research and find a good professional locally.

If money is an issue then go back and thoroughly check out every link that has been included in the responses to your questions. The answers are all there

You have been at this since November 3rd. Just review the answers/links and do the best you can. When you ask for help again, please advise what you have read and what do not understand. We are here to help in that type of situation.

Good Luck

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:14 pm

Well - general rule of thumb is that you can't run these lights at any time on a public roadway under normal weather conditions.

Your local law enforcement will be the best way to get this question answered - usually you can call your local state troopers, or the state headquarters and ask them. Or just find an officer that is running radar, or sitting in a parkinglot/median and politely ask them.

Legal operation has nothing to do with the wiring, and everything to do with how you use them. They're off/road lights and by law are only legally used that way.

Looking at the instuctions you sent me - I understand that each light has a dual element main bulb that has a high/low feature (basically a standard 100watt H4 bulb), plus an additional bulb that can be used when the main bulb is not operational that makes the light appear to "glow". This feature has been used before in what many sport compact and minitruck owners call "city lights". I will warn you again that the glowing effect may not be legal in your area for use on public roadways. I see the 2 relays (labeled LR-24E) - One is for the high beam function of the main bulb, and one is for the low beam function. All of the wiring for these looks very straightforward - the thick white wire with the fuse connector goes to the positive terminal of the battery, or the powered auxillary post of the main underhood fuse box. Either way will work.

Black is ground - find a good ground and secure it.

mount the relays where they aren't likely to get wet under the hood.. Snake the plugs for the lights down through the grille and to the lights.

I'm assuming you already have the switches installed somewhere in your truck, and it is one control box with switches and a wiring harness coming out of it?

According to the instructions Step 4 says: Find a power source to connect the switch power wire to. For legal operation
of driving lights the power source must be one that is only powered when
the high beam of the headlamps is on.
I completely disagree with this statement if your lights are supposed to act as fog lights - in fog situations, you don't want to run high beam headlights - use lowbeams - highbeams just reflect more glare back at you from the fog. Now - if these lights don't have a true "low" beam - say like a 35watt function - then you don't want to use these lights in a fog situation either for the same reason mentioned above.

The Switch power wire - white w/ red dots - can truly be tied to any 12volt power source. If you connect it to the battery or aux 12V stud uder the hood - then you would be able to operate the lights at any time, regardless of other lights on the truck, or if you have the keys in or not.

If you tap it into a switched 12V source, then the other lights wouldn't matter, but you would need the key in the "ON" position for them to work.

If you tap it into something like the parking light circuit, low beam wiring, or highbeam wiring, then the lights would work only when whichever light circuit you pick is operational. And since you can have the truck's lights on without the keys, in this situation the lights are all that is required to make it work.

Now - if you have digested all of that info - it's time for you to make a choice.
When I had my dual 100W lights on my truck - I had them on an "always-hot" switch so that I can turn them on any time day or night, with or without the keys. I just maide sure I knew what the position of that switch was at all times. I would hope you would notice you left 200 watts of halogens burning on the front of your truck while driving down the road, or in a parking lot/carport.

Decide how and under what conditions you want your driving lights to operate and I can explain to you how and where to splice.

For the "marker light" bulbs/leds that are in the kit - you need to do nothing more than tap into the parking light circuit for them to have the glowing effect any time that the main driving bulbs are not on, and the trucks parking lights are on.

Actually if you decide that you want the driving lights to operate any time that the parking lights are on, then that simplifies things cause you would tap both the white/red dotted wire and the poer lead for the marker lights in at the same place..

Let me know what you want, and I'll show you where to tie into the factory wiring. I have to pull my grille off tomorrow to replace a burned out parking light bulb, so I'll take a pic of which wire you need to tap into there for the "marker lights"

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:30 pm

Thank you Chris,

I started this project last month and then it got put on hold for a variety of reasons.

Here is what has been done so far:

1) The switch was mounted next to the steering wheel and the wires for it run through the dash.

2) The switch wires connected to the harness, which was fed in through the rubber donut on the passenger side floor.

3) The lights were mounted on the Bumper Thumper and the rest of the stuff was put in a plastic bag under the hood.

4) There is a wiring assembly covered in black conduit out of the back of each light. At the end of that conduit are two plugs...one for the wiring going to the relays, and the other for the white/red wire that needs to be hooked up somewhere.

Therefore, what is left to be done is hooking up the thick white and black wires, and tapping into some wire with the little white/red one.

Regarding mounting the relays, what is best for that? What kind of screws should I use, etc? I don't want to cause any rusting by drilling holes. Any suggestions on this?

I will look at the things you mentioned tomorrow and get back to you.

Thank you HenryJ, f9k9, Chris and everyone else for your help on this.

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 7:15 am

I just looked at my truck.

Based on reading previous posts and following the advice I have received up to this point, the wiring inside the cab is done, through the donut and into the engine bay on the battery side.

PIAA Switch

It is going to be difficult to redo the light wiring without removing the bumper thumper.

I forgot that when we put them in last month, we snap tied the white/red wire that came directly out of the back of the wire conduit down by the passenger parking and fog lights. The logic behind that was that we didn't know what the color codes for the wires were. I believe that they were gray, blue, and brown. I thought that when I found out the color code I could just pop the parking bulb out from the rear and use the bite down wire connectors that came with the lights to tap into one of those.

White/red wire waiting to be hooked up

Now that I have seen it again, rather than rewiring the whole thing to the fuse block side, I think the best thing to do would be to leave the wiring as is and tap into the correct wire from the parking light assembly.

After that white/red wire is hooked up, it should be a matter of connecting the white and black thick wires to the battery and mounting the relays somewhere.

What wire should I tap into?...blue, gray, or brown. And how and where should I mount up the relays?

What do you think about the "glowing" ability and how that should be handled?

Thanks,

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 5:19 pm

I would still prefer to tap one of the parking light wires, even if it means the lights might function a little bit differently.

Today I called a local offroad shop and they said when they wire up lights they just use a toggle switch and wire them up separately from the system. I would just like to get as close to what I want using the best parking light wire possible.

Hopefully that makes sense.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:04 pm

You have email, please read it Tom

TexasBlaZeR2 · Post by **TexasBlaZeR2** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:11 pm

Okay. I just did. Thank you. Looks like I have a little bit more work to do. I appreciate all the help I can get. Learning as I go.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Dec 03, 2005 6:27 pm

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:Okay. I just did. Thank you. Looks like I have a little bit more work to do. I appreciate all the help I can get. Learning as I go.

You and I both