The Marvelous Mystery Lift

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:22 pm

Time to let the cat out of the bag.

Sherlock Holmes would have this all figured out quite some time ago. All the clues have been out there:

HenryJ wrote:Get your finances in order and save up some money, but I may be pushing for you to go a slightly different direction.

This may take a little while before I have the solution all put together, but if it works out there may be a cost effective alternative offering some benefits that SL, TM and BDS can not offer.

HenryJ wrote:What kind of cost are we looking at for the three available lifts?
Lift with shocks- $1700
Tires- $560
That is $2260 plus installation.

So far I estimate the complete package running under $1600 with signifigantly lower installation costs added. I could even see a "budget" package running right at $1000 delivered and with some direction, installed yourself. Add $100 to that for a professional alignment and the mount/balance of the tires. This has you ready to go at 1/2 to 1/3 the cost.

So far the benifits far outweigh the differences.

HenryJ wrote:...I would hope things could be ironed out by Christmas...

HenryJ wrote:
Rusty wrote:Do you mean the "complete package", including wheels and tires for under $1600?
It would retain the use of the stock wheels, but yes, everything needed to drive away. Tires and shocks are definitely in the estimates.
I hate seeing a kit price and never having a real good idea what the whole "turn key" product will cost.
I won't string you along. If things don't look good in the next 30 days I'll let you know.

HenryJ wrote:Don't let your minds get this blown out of proportion.

HenryJ wrote:I am looking at the components carefully, and making changes that are geared to the daily driven weekend getaway vehicle. Maximizing the lift for dollar spent and ease of installation are priorities... what I hope to be one of the components, will be shipped Monday... I need to try one before I will be able to test the other ...This has been in progress since April... This should offer up to 3" additional ground clearance and a total height increase around 5"...

HenryJ wrote:... I'd do exactly what I did to mine ...T-bar crank...Alignment...Shocks...Body lift...Tires...Rear spacers...Add-a-leaf...

HenryJ wrote:Shocks are the first and best thing that you can do.

HenryJ wrote:
Tribecrist wrote:Received my Boise SpringWorks kit on Wednesday...

You're headed the right direction and have one of the components out of the way

HenryJ wrote:I moved the 1.25" spacers to the front, and installed 2" spacers on the rear to widen the whole stance.

HenryJ wrote:I removed my flares in preparation for ....

HenryJ wrote:New page added to the modifications page Skidz Cut-out Flares.

This may be a bit premature as I was not quite ready to reveal some of my plans...

HenryJ wrote:A body lift is a lift , right? Spring lift is a lift, right? Adding larger tires, is that a lift?

HenryJ wrote:I am wanting to gather some data on balljoint failures...I want to see if tire size really plays any part in this.

HenryJ wrote:...BFG AT's were the "choice" early in this forum's history...It is funny how trends ebb and flow

HenryJ wrote:I just placed an order with them this morning. They were $30 cheaper than Summit , once you added oversized shipping charges.

HenryJ wrote:
border man wrote:33's maybe?
Shhhh.... I think you're on the right track

Here is what you need:
Performance Accessories PA192 2" body lift $209 Summit
Bilstein heavy duty shock absorbers $240 ORW
Torsion Bar adjustment and subsequent alignment $50
Boise SpringWorks Kit $190 Boise SpringWorks
Front 1.25" and rear 3" spacers $170 Ebay- Completevalue
Front replacement bump stops - GM PART # 15712438 $23 (new). These are off of the rear of late '90s and early 2000 Chevrolet fullsize pickups and can be purchased used for under $5
Skidz Cut-out Flares $375 (no longer available, however the cuts can still be made and paint or liner applied)
BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO 33x9.50-15 tires $560 4Wheelparts or Summit
Mount and balance $50

GRAND TOTAL = $1697

This does not include reprogramming the PCM for the change in tire size. This can be done at a dealership for a minimum service charge. Or invest in a programmer to do it yourself. Prices will vary from just under $20 at a dealer up to $300 for a programmer. Picking up a used HPPIII would be a good choice.

Looking through the list of components you can see that there would be some options for reducing cost. Less expensive shocks, Shackles instead of leafs, a good buy on the flares via ebay or just making the cuts and going without flares, etc. Heck you already may have invested in many of the components already , or choose to get them over time.
I could see putting together a low end kit for about $1100.

This offers a lower center of gravity than a suspension lift, 12.5 inches of clearance at the front skid plate and 10 inches clearance at the rear differential. The mid point break over height measures 12.5 inches. This may be lower than those with the torsion bar relocators, and comparable to those without.
These tires weigh less than many of the smaller diameter 31" tires. This will help acceleration. With the narrower tread rolling resistance should be less, hopefully resulting in a nice mileage increase. Airing down for offroad the narrower tire has obvious advantages.

There are some disadvantages-
Gearing. The 3.73's will probably be tolerable, and some are getting by with 3.42's, but it may become necessary to go to 4.10's for those who need the power. I'll know more about this in time.
BFGoodrich is the only 33x9.50-15 tire available. No other choices.
Am I going to have balljoint and wheel bearing problems? I really can't say for sure. The narrower lighter tire does reduce some of the stresses, however the increase in diameter offers more leverage. Time will tell.

Did anyone figure it all out?

I hope you all don't feel cheated. It was not my intention, and I did say that this was another alternative. I think it is a great way to gain ground clearance. Am I going to have balljoint and wheel bearing problems? I really can't say for sure.
I haven't put any miles on them yet. I did put it in a bind to check clearances and everything looks good after trimming the front air dam. It may rub the frame a little at full lock, but everything else clears just fine now. The 33's really do fill the wheel well when "stuffed"

I have plans for a trip to the John Day Fossil Beds on the weekend after Labor Day. That should be enough to form an opinion on the value of this change.

Right now I am happy, the tires "fit" the truck. Not too big, not too small

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:37 pm

Much better after edit

Great thinking, Brule

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:44 pm

Pictures?

RocK · Post by **RocK** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:46 pm

nice work HJ. You convinced me to listen to everybody that has ever said dont do the suspension lift. I guess the only real thing that you gain is the approach angle with the taller truck. that and the mud is much deeper when you get er fubar'd. Several people tell me just to body lift it and let it go. Always suspension problems after a lift.... always. But i am the stubborn type. I see a fullsize and say man i am really that much smaller. So good job HJ on the research. its appreciated but you prollly did make a couple of credit card companies mad.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:53 pm

Rusty wrote:Pictures?

As soon as I wash it

You realize this is all your fault, don't you?

Just kidding

I have been planning this since April.

RocK · Post by **RocK** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:54 pm

who me? .....

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:55 pm

HenryJ wrote:You realize this is all your fault, don't you?

Well, everyone else blames everything on me. Why not?

RocK · Post by **RocK** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:59 pm

OH and by the way the Tornado air spiral thingy.....

Two thumbs up. Slight increase in MPG and I can now smoke my 31's. If you can ride out the dang wheel hop. I think it helped my low end torque band alot. Not much to speak of in the upper R's though. But deffinately noticable. : )

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 4:35 pm

thanks henryj...heck..i'm 2/3rd's the way there!!!!!

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 4:46 pm

top_sgt wrote:thanks henryj...heck..i'm 2/3rd's the way there!!!!!

You and I both. I thought it was interesting that I've already done a lot of this. All I need are the flares, body lift, the boise springs and the tires. Ironically though, some of those are the more expensive parts! I think I'm going to wait until I wear out my present tires.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:38 pm

Here's a picture-

And a few more here- Album

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:41 pm

Looks nice!

RocK · Post by **RocK** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:43 pm

uh oh.. I can see the wallets getting emptier as I type. LOL. Nice Job HJ.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:45 pm

Impressive as H__L

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:46 pm

RocK wrote:uh oh.. I can see the wallets getting emptier as I type. LOL. Nice Job HJ.

Not mine. It's already empty.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 5:50 pm

If any one wants the templates for the cuts to be made PM me.
You can add flares later if you wish. Just tape them off nicely and spray some undercoating/bedliner on the area and they will look just fine.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 5:19 am

Those Mods Look Great..... I Love The 33's On There.....

HenryJ wrote:The mid point break over height measures 12.5 inches

Is This The Height To The Bottom Of The Frame Rail??

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 5:38 am

gocntry wrote: Those Mods Look Great..... I Love The 33's On There.....

HenryJ wrote:The mid point break over height measures 12.5 inches
Is This The Height To The Bottom Of The Frame Rail??

It almost looks the same as it did when it had 31's and the smaller flares. I guess part of that is the "skinny" 33's combined with the bigger fender openings. I've never seen tires that size.

malkavian · Post by **malkavian** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 5:39 am

man i was close after reading all the ball joint issues i started just trying to figure a way yo run 33's but couldnt find any narrow enough. didnt know bfg made them that size.... Good going HenryJ

jeffc · Post by **jeffc** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:51 am

looks good but i wanna see a real photo of it.....no trick shots with the camera on the groud looking up! find a stock crew to park next to so we can see how it measures up. how close are you to rubbing when your wheels are turned? if you used anything other than stock back spacing would you have rubbing issues?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:01 am

gocntry wrote:Is This The Height To The Bottom Of The Frame Rail??

No. This is the lowest point on the transfercase shield. The frame measures 14 inches at the mid point.

jeffc wrote:looks good but i wanna see a real photo of it.....no trick shots with the camera on the groud looking up! find a stock crew to park next to so we can see how it measures up. how close are you to rubbing when your wheels are turned? if you used anything other than stock back spacing would you have rubbing issues?

Check the album. I am roughly two and one half inches taller than a stock ZR2 now. I will get some real world pictures weekend after next.

I still have an inch clearance at the tightest point, which is the front bumper. This is on the ramp at full compression. It looks like it will rub the frame even with the 1.25" spacers on the front. No way you could get away with more rearspacing.

Real world testing is scheduled and I'll get some pictures then.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:56 am

All those cryptic comments and it's just a BL and fender trimming? What a ripoff!

Too bad I bought 31's last winter or I'd be right there with you.

Oh well...anyone want some 31x10.5" MT/R's with about 6,000 miles on them?

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 11:12 am

I would, if you were still in ARIZONA (God's Country).

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:52 pm

border man wrote:I would, if you were still in ARIZONA (God's Country).

I know...how's the heat there by the way?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 2:39 pm

AZS10Crew wrote:All those cryptic comments and it's just a BL and fender trimming? What a ripoff!

Boy! I told you guys that this was snowballing out of control

I really was just trying to offer Rusty another alternative to a big $$ suspension lift, and still retain most of the benefits as well as a few they don't have

You have to admit that it is not such a bad way to go. Many of the members here already have most of the components already.

Did you guys really think that a spare tire rack was just to pack a second spare tire? It sure is going to be handy to mount a 33 inch spare now

What about this article- Tire Selection for Expedition Travel

The hints were everywhere

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 5:13 pm

AZS10Crew wrote:
I know...how's the heat there by the way?

Hot and humid, the monsoon is just about over, so it has been in the low 100's. Getting tolerable.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 5:21 am

HenryJ wrote:It looks like it will rub the frame even with the 1.25" spacers on the front. No way you could get away with more rearspacing.

Ok, I Guess I'm Just Dense When It Comes To The Backspacing Math

So Stock Back Spacing Is 6" With Your 1.25" Spacers That Would Be The Same As A Wheel With 4.75" B/S? So Then Less Rear Back Spacing Would Be Like 4" B/S?....So To Get Away From The Rubbing You Would Have To Go Get Rid Of The Spacer And Go Back To The Stock B/S? Or Would That Be The Other Way Around?

Now Do I Have Everybody Totally Confused

My fault, edited post to correct-HJ

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 5:44 am

i'm with ya, gocnty!!

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 6:15 am

Looks good Hj

, don't take any crap from any one that is the easyest and most economical way to go. good job!!!!!

so if i add those flares i could run 35"s with ease

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 9:02 am

gocntry wrote:
HenryJ wrote:It looks like it will rub the frame even with the 1.25" spacers on the front. No way you could get away with more rearspacing.
Ok, I Guess I'm Just Dense When It Comes To The Backspacing Math

So Stock Back Spacing Is 6" With Your 1.25" Spacers That Would Be The Same As A Wheel With 4.75" B/S? So Then Less Rear Back Spacing Would Be Like 4" B/S?....So To Get Away From The Rubbing You Would Have To Go Get Rid Of The Spacer And Go Back To The Stock B/S? Or Would That Be The Other Way Around?

Now Do I Have Everybody Totally Confused

"Less rearspacing" I think sounded a little confusing. I think he meant less spacing between the inside of the wheel and the frame...if the wheel were any closer to the stock position than with 6" BS and 1.25" spacers it wouldn't work.

bwenny247 · Post by **bwenny247** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 12:37 pm

less backspacing, meaning a number smaller than the original 6" stock, will move the tire out away from the frame but will come closer to the fender when the wheel is turned.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 2:23 pm

My fault, edited post to correct-HJ

Sorry for my mistake. Listen to what I mean not what I say

I used less when I should have said more. You all have the right idea. In this case the stock wheels will not work without the reduction in rear spacing.
Wheels with 4.5" rearspacing would likely be the best choice. I really like the stock ZR5 wheels, so spacers are the way to go for me. Probably the least expensive option too.

jeggers wrote:... if i add those flares i could run 35"s with ease

I don't think that I would recommend it.
IMO, 33's are pushing it for the stock IFS. I probably would have not gone there if not for the lightweight narrow 33 that I am running.
The next reason is clearance. When stuffed the 33's clear nicely, but a 35 would be too close for my comfort. They would also pose problems on the front as well since I'm sure that the extra width and height will get awful close.

For a "street queen" , sure I think you could get away with 35's with a 5" or 6" lift. Not sure how long the IFS will hold up though.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 9:38 pm

Nice Job Henry. That be the way to go. After my last couple wheeling trips, I've really come to hate IFS lifts. If you want to do anything, BL is the only way to go to keep the IFS from getting any weaker than it already is. Sweet, looks like a great solution.

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 6:17 am

HenryJ wrote:Sorry for my mistake. Listen to what I mean not what I say

No Prob, Thanks For Setting Me Straight.

I Thought I Knew What You Ment But Then I Figured I Was Just Totally Lost Again.

I Just Need To Get A Good Grasp On All This Backspacing - Widths - And How They Contribute To Or Fix Rubbing Issues. I Think Tires Will Be My October Mod To Get Ready To Be Lifted...Just And Issue Of What Size To Buy Depending Of How Much Lift I'll Get....

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 8:07 am

Hey Brule...do you think a 33x10.5 would also work?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 8:25 am

AZS10Crew wrote:Hey Brule...do you think a 33x10.5 would also work?

I think it would require less rearspacing, but it does look like it might be possible.

I'll know more after putting this set through their paces weekend after next.

jeggers · Post by **jeggers** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 8:45 am

hj wrote:I don't think that I would recommend it.
IMO, 33's are pushing it for the stock IFS. I probably would have not gone there if not for the lightweight narrow 33 that I am running.
The next reason is clearance. When stuffed the 33's clear nicely, but a 35 would be too close for my comfort. They would also pose problems on the front as well since I'm sure that the extra width and height will get awful close.

For a "street queen" , sure I think you could get away with 35's with a 5" or 6" lift. Not sure how long the IFS will hold up though.

Yes i know 35"s would be trouble , we always want what we can't have. I should realy stick withe the 32"s and find a way to relocate my t-bars (other than real lift)$$$$$$$

$$$$$$$$. I have called rough country abou the 6" lift they are working on it may be a non t-bar drop like the full size but we will have to wait to see. If it is that may give me new ideas

or i may order the parts from them we will see.

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 9:00 am

Hey, HJ. So that I can get a better visual, would you mind measuring the height of your fender lips, front & back, from the ground? Mine sits at 35" in the front & 37" in back. I would just like to compare that to yours if it's not too much trouble.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 9:37 am

Roughly measured 36.5" front and 38" rear

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 10:13 am

HenryJ wrote:Roughly measured 36.5" front and 38" rear

Thanks, Brule.

AZS10Crew · Post by **AZS10Crew** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 12:01 pm

HenryJ wrote:
AZS10Crew wrote:Hey Brule...do you think a 33x10.5 would also work?
I think it would require less rearspacing, but it does look like it might be possible.

I'll know more after putting this set through their paces weekend after next.

Cool...just curious. If I lift mine, it will be SFA anyway. I got a good lead from a regular customer at my paint store that's done a few SAS's. Hopefully by next summer.

Post by **Walt** » Sat Sep 03, 2005 10:34 am

Hmmm....I have, or will have all the components.....anyone want to buy a set of AT KO 31x10.5x15's with only a few K miles on them? J/K, I need all the money I can get for the forseeable future.

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 9:30 pm

very nice set up

truck looks great HJ! keep them pics coming

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 3:48 pm

HenryJ wrote:
I have plans for a trip to the John Day Fossil Beds on the weekend after Labor Day. That should be enough to form an opinion on the value of this change.

So how did you make out this weekend HJ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 4:55 pm

We didn't get a chance to fully test things, but I am satisfied that this combination has no rubbing issues.

Here you can see fully compressed at the closest point there is still 3/4" of clearance-

The rear tire was just off the ground here , during this stop-

Plenty of room to stuff those 33's up in there-

Could you go to the 10.5's? Maybe. It would require wheels, or wider spacers, and probably limit the turning radius even more. Adding the tires that I did reduced the radius noticeably. I don't think I would care for much more.

It does "search" a little around 40 mph. Not too bad, but it didn't do that with the 31's.
Mileage was about the same, though I need more miles to confirm that. Power is still pretty good. The rpms at 55 mph are about 1500-1600 while cruising in OD. Dropping to 3 on grades is needed now, whereas you could get away with out sometimes before.

All in all...This is it!

Ground clearance, low center of gravity, smooth, performance, mileage...all good so far

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 5:46 pm

Nice pics HJ

Got a few more of your truck in action

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:00 pm

bubaloo1983 wrote:Nice pics HJ

Got a few more of your truck in action

It is really hard to take pictures and drive

Since I am both photographer and driver, photo "ops" are not nearly as frequent as maybe they should be. Check the thread in the "activities" forum for a couple more.

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 7:40 pm

Seirously , I had this idea in my head for awhile , but could not get anyone to confirm it could work . Clearing the 33's i mean , but you found the "trick" with the 9.5" 33's . Less mass to turn , means less wear and tear . Good Job ! .

Now only if I can get Skidz cutouts for my 4dr blazer made , that is all that is stopping me from doing this project .
Your truck looks great , can we see some pics with a comparison to a stock CC or zr2 ?
Good job once again .

Post by **Walt** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:35 am

Blaze One, just cut your fenders out per Brule's templates, and then add spray on bed-liner to your rocker panels and lower fenders. This way you can go ahead and get the space you need in the feners, and then just add the flares if/when Justin makes them.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 6:23 am

Might be worth looking at the rear fenders to see if the same type of cut would be possible. The rear flares may be signifigantly different from ours. It is hard to predict exactly what the cuts will need to be.
You could always run without flares, as Walt said, they really would not look bad.

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 12:41 pm

If I could get away with out cutting the rear that would be great , but I don't htink that will happen . I know the front cutouts will fit but not the rears , with the rear door in the way , I think most of the cutting would have to be on the rear of the fender . But not using the cutouts would save me $400 and thats a plus . I take some pics of the rear and post them up so that i can get your opinions . Thanks

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 1:00 pm

yah i have been looking at the blazers for tooling thoughts ect and it will be fun to make

not alot of material there to remove aswell

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:22 pm

yes , I think it will be tricky , but doable .
But lets not garbage up HJ's thread with blazer stuff . I will get the rest of the compnents installed , then the last thing i would need to do it fender work and buy tires .
HJ - any news about pics beside a zr2 ? or even photoshop a stocker or zr2 inthere

PS> what did you say would need to be done to run a 10.5" wide 33 ? Was it a smaller spacer or larger ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 7:19 pm

Blaze One wrote:what did you say would need to be done to run a 10.5" wide 33 ? Was it a smaller spacer or larger ?

Larger spacer, less rear spacing.

I'll try to find a stock S-series to park next to ASAP.

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 7:41 pm

um ... ok so a larger spacer = less rear spacing ?
I am so dumb when it comes to this backspacing , spacer , more less .....

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 9:27 pm

Just a guess at this point, but around 4" of rear spacing to clear the frame would be my guess.

chumley · Post by **chumley** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 2:18 am

yah i have been looking at the blazers for tooling thoughts ect and it will be fun to make

Thought you'd have them by the end of summer

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 9:00 am

i am half way there ( the fronts lol)

the tooling is just really complicated thats all. i didnt relize there is like no material for the part on the door.

no promises at this point now. sorry guys

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:11 pm

Blaze One wrote:... can we see some pics with a comparison to a stock CC or zr2 ?

Stock Blazer-

Sonoma Crew Cab with slightly larger than stock tires-

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:13 pm

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Sep 18, 2005 1:24 pm

UPDATE on the mileage:
Offroad = 15.1 mpg
Combination city/ offroad/ Highway= 17.4 mpg
Highway = 20.2 mpg

The lower numbers are pretty much average, but this is the first time, in a long time, that I have broken the 20 mpg mark.

I am going to say that the tires have helped my mileage. Maybe only 1 mpg or so, but an improvement all the same. I have been running regular unleaded lately, and should pick up a little more when I go back to the plus.

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:15 pm

wow it certainly looks more like a truck now . looks good and performs good , gas milliage is also a plus . holy my truck needs a tune up bad , i get like 14mpg city on stock tires !
I only hope i can work somethin out to make my blazer like that , I am thinkin maybe i can trim the front wheel well and use the cc cutout on it , and then for the rear ...... ah crap . LOL
I figure out something . but it's gotta be done since i was parked next to a ford minivan and my truck has the same size tires and ride hieght is almost the same . That is inbarrasing i think .

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:42 pm

i love your wish list blaze one lol. very nice

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:24 pm

lol thanks . it will happen . one day

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 08, 2005 1:17 pm

HenryJ wrote:...I am going to say that the tires have helped my mileage. Maybe only 1 mpg or so, but an improvement all the same. I have been running regular unleaded...

Confirmed when I filled up today. Mileage has improved about 1 mpg.
I can not specifically attribute it to any one thing for sure. It could be the reduced rolling resistance the narrower taller tires offer. Or perhaps the change in gear ratio? Those with 3.42 gearing claim better mileage that most. Perhaps, I was all wrong about the optimal ratio for these trucks?

What ever it was ... it is working! Maybe the truck is just in it's "happy place"

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:13 am

did i miss something or did you regear your truck brule? 20mpg is great!!! so basically, its the fender flares that allow for the bigger tires. its the same combo of lift that i and most others had.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 7:17 am

a2b wrote:did i miss something or did you regear your truck brule? 20mpg is great!!! so basically, its the fender flares that allow for the bigger tires. its the same combo of lift that i and most others had.

No regear and I don't think that I will now.
Yes, it is the Skidz Cut-out flares that allow for the bigger tires, well ...that and a the 2" bodylift.

Most do have the 2" lift. Now all they need is a set of flares and bigger tires

Post by **Walt** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 10:12 am

Brule, just by eyeballing, do you think the standard 33" size BGF's would fit? And, what about 32's with 4"BS wheels and no spacers?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:26 pm

I don't know what the "standard" size might be?

A 33x10.5-15 should just clear on the stock width and 4.75" back spaced wheels. I had 3/4" clearance so the additional .5" per side should still clear, although the turn radius will be increased since the tires will not turn as far without rubbing the frame.

The ZR2's have an advantage here since their frame is narrower at that point.

Without actual widths and diameters of the tires it is hard to guess any further.

Post by **Walt** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:34 pm

I just checked, and it appears that BFG does make 33x10.5x15's.

Hmmm...no 2" spacers in the front anymore....oh well..

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 3:10 pm

so to fit a 33x10.5 tire you need to go with the stock rims and NO spacers ? or with spacers ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 3:58 pm

With spacers or wheels that have no less than 4.75" rear spacing. You might even get away with 4" rear spacing?

Reed's wheels would be ideal.

If you plan to use the stock wheels you will need at least 1.25" spacers.
1.5" may even be better? I don't think that 2" will work?

Look at my combination and add or subtract where you wish: 4.75" rear spacing , 32.7" diameter tire , 9.5" section width ( 7" tread width )

No more frame clearance , so no room to go inward with out losing turning radius. 3/4" room left outboard.

To me that is tight but comfortable.

Could you go bigger? Maybe. Would I? No.

The IFS may be overstressed by larger tires. I think I am pushing the limits of reliability. Time will tell.

Post by **Walt** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 6:25 am

Hmmm....ok, I may just go with 32x11.5x15's then....that should be close but comfortable

Blaze One · Post by **Blaze One** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:11 pm

is the overall diameter( actual dia. ) of the 32"x11.5 much smaller than a 33x10.5 ?
I would have thought that a larger width tire would be causing more problems ?

Post by **Walt** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:52 pm

Height and width both are factors. Sometimes you can reduce one, and increase the other, which I hope to do. I don't mind a little rub....as long as it's the frame

S-10CREWCAB.NET

The Marvelous Mystery Lift

The Marvelous Mystery Lift

Re: The Marvelous Mystery Lift