ball joint replacement

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:54 pm

ok does anyone know how to change ball joints? i love you if you do cause i dont feel like paying another 500 bucks for parts and labour ugh

please explain in dteail

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:32 pm

Have they been changed previously?

The reason that I ask is if they have not, then it will require grinding , drilling and chiseling to remove the rivets. The new ones will bolt in with hardened bolts and nuts.
This saves a bunch of time and aggravation.

UPPER BALLJOINTS:
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle with safety stands.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Unload the torsion bar.
4. Remove the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket mounting bolt and nut from the upper control arm.
5. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket from the upper control arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint retaining nut.
7. Remove the upper ball joint retaining nut.
8. Using a pry bar, placed under the upper control arm and on top of the frame, pry upward.
9. With the aid of a helper, carefully hammer on the steering knuckle in the area of the upper ball joint stud in order to release the stud from the steering knuckle.
10. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
1. Place a block under the upper control arm to keep the control arm and the steering knuckle out of the way.
2. Suspend the steering knuckle to prevent straining the brake line.
11. Remove the rivets from the upper ball joint.
Use a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill to cut a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) deep hole in the center of each rivet.
12. Drill the rivet heads away using a 12.7 mm (1/2 in) drill.
13. Remove the rivets using a pin punch.
14. Remove the upper ball joint.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the upper ball joint to the upper control arm.
2. Install the upper ball joint retaining bolts and the nuts.
Tighten

Tighten the upper ball joint retaining nuts to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
3. Re-install the upper ball joint to the steering knuckle.
4. Install the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut.
Tighten
* Tighten the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut to 83 N·m (61 lb ft).
* Tighten the upper ball joint to steering knuckle retaining nut in order to align for the cotter pin. Do not tighten the nut more than 1/6 turn.
5. Install the new cotter pin to the upper ball joint stud. Bend the pin ends against the nut.
6. Connect the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket to the upper control arm.
7. Install the wheel speed sensor wiring harness bracket and brake hose bracket mounting bolt and nut.
Tighten

Tighten the wheel speed sensor bracket and brake hose bracket mounting nut to 24 N·m (18 lb ft).
8. Load the torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar and Support Assembly Replacement .
9. Install the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Inspect the front wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel Alignment.

LOWER BALLJOINT:
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Unload the torsion bar.
4. Remove the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
5. Drill a pilot hole in the lower ball joint rivets using a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill to cut a 6.35 mm (1/4 in) deep hole in the center of each rivet.
6. Drill the rivet heads away using a 12.7 mm (1/2 in) drill.
7. Remove the rivets using a pin punch.
8. Remove the lower ball joint from lower control arm.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the lower ball joint to the lower control arm.
2. Install the lower ball joint retaining bolts and the nuts.
Tighten

Tighten the lower ball joint retaining nuts to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
3. Install the wheel drive shaft. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Wheel Drive Shafts.
4. Load the torsion bar.
5. Install the tire and the wheel.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Inspect the front wheel alignment.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:48 am

The lower balljoints are bolted or riveted as well? I thought they were pressed in. How about 1st gens? I know they ones on my Blazer are trash.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:04 am

Rusty wrote:The lower balljoints are bolted or riveted as well?... How about 1st gens? ...

All riveted in place stock. The first gens are the same.

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:32 am

HenryJ wrote:
Rusty wrote:The lower balljoints are bolted or riveted as well?... How about 1st gens? ...
All riveted in place stock. The first gens are the same.

Great! Now I don't have to go out and get a ball joint press!

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 11:34 am

thanks so much henry. i think i am going to take a stab at doing it myself. seems like alot or work...i printed out your post lol

thanks again

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:37 pm

The GM torsion bar unloading tool is a must. Beg , rent or borrow one if you can. If you can't , be prepared they are spendy.
It is the only safe way to unload the T-bars though.

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:48 pm

close to our shop my friend owns a automotive place and he has one so i think i will ask him fo rit. other then that thanks and ill be taken a stab at it this weekend

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 5:01 pm

bubaloo1983 wrote:... ill be taken a stab at it this weekend

Please, no stabbing or other violent behavior. Well ...OK ...you can "beat" the rivets, but lets have that be about it

bubaloo1983 · Post by **bubaloo1983** » Wed Apr 13, 2005 7:15 pm

lol yah if i get frustrated there will be some anger lol ill give it my all.

aa21830 · Post by **aa21830** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:11 am

HenryJ wrote:The GM torsion bar unloading tool is a must.

I unloaded the torsion bar on my '96 Sonoma with a $10 2-jaw puller tool, which worked perfectly. How is the GM tool different?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:27 am

aa21830 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:The GM torsion bar unloading tool is a must.
I unloaded the torsion bar on my '96 Sonoma with a $10 2-jaw puller tool, which worked perfectly. How is the GM tool different?

Have always wondered about the unloading tool and never understood how it works or have seen one.

I did read about 2 jaw pulling tool being an option but, couldn't picture it in my mind.

Is this what you used?

top_sgt · Post by **top_sgt** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:46 am

if i remember the unloading looks a little like a big c-clamp!!

aa21830 · Post by **aa21830** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:08 pm

f9k9 wrote:[
Is this what you used?

Yes - there's an indentation in the "arm" thingie that's perpendicular to the bar, the center of the puller goes there, and the jaws latch onto the frame member, if I remember correctly (been about 5 years since I did it...couldn't locate some noise in the front end and wanted to be able to jerk up and down on the a-arms).

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:44 pm

Thanks!

I forgot to look at my SI program and when I did I saw the GM tool. Looks like a glorified C clamp that you can use your rachet to make the turns.

I have been trying to remember where I saw the 2 jaw puller tool used and it just now remembered where

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 12:59 pm

No. OTC-7822A ~ GM Torsion Bar Unloading Automotive Tool

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:06 pm

A tad overpriced if memory serves me. Something like $80.00 for it.

I am sure it is well worth it when used once or twice a week

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 1:17 pm

Rent one if you can.
Otherwise it is the only safe way to unload the bars and well worth the $90. Much cheaper than the trip to the emergency room, and tools are never a bad investment

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Apr 30, 2005 2:01 pm

HenryJ wrote:......... tools are never a bad investment

Renting, if available, makes sense

Boy, have I got some good investment opportunities for you in the way of VeeDub (VW) and Buick Opel tools

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:04 am

How do you know if the ball joints are bad?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:13 am

Pauleo wrote:How do you know if the ball joints are bad?

Important

* The vehicle must rest on a level surface.
* The vehicle must be stable. Do not rock the vehicle on the floor stands.
* The upper control arm bumper must not contact the frame.

# Raise and support the vehicle.
# Support the lower control arm with a floor stand or jack, as far outboard as possible, under the stabilizer bar bracket.

Important

If a seal is cut or torn, replace the ball joint.
# Clean and inspect the ball joints seals for cuts or tears. If the ball joint seals are damaged, replace the ball joint. Refer to Upper Ball Joint Replacement or Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.
# Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If looseness in the wheel bearing is present, refer to Wheel Bearings Diagnosis .
# Check the ball joints for horizontal looseness.

1. Position the J 8001 dial indicator against the lowest outboard point on the wheel rim.
2. Rock the wheel in and out while reading the dial indicator. This shows horizontal looseness in both joints.
3. The dial indicator reading should be no more than 2.00 mm (0.080 in). If the reading is too high, check the lower ball joints for vertical looseness.

Important

Do not support the lower control arm with a jack stand for a RWD vehicle, this will unload or cause compression on the wear indicator and will cause the wear indicator to give a false reading.
# For RWD vehicles, check the lower ball joints for wear and for vertical looseness using the following procedure:

1. Remove the safety stand from under the lower control arm.
2. Inspect by sight the lower ball joint for wear. The position of the housing into which the grease fitting is threaded indicates wear. This round housing projects 1.27 mm (0.050 in) beyond the surface of the ball joint cover on a new lower ball joint. Under normal wear, the surface of the ball joint housing retreats inward very slowly.
3. First observe, then scrape a scale, a screwdriver, or a fingernail across the cover. If the round housing is flush with or inside of the cover surface, replace the lower ball joint.

Notice

Do not pry between the lower arm and the wheel drive shaft boot or in such a manner that the ball joint seal is contacted. Damage to the wheel drive shaft boot will result (4WD).
# For 4WD vehicles, place a J 8001 dial indicator against the spindle in order to show vertical movement.

# Pry between the lower control arm and the outer bearing race while reading the dial indicator. This shows vertical looseness in the lower ball joints. The lower ball joint may show some looseness.

# If the dial indicator reading is more than 3.18 mm (0.125 in), replace the lower ball joint. Refer to Lower Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.
# If the lower ball joint is within specifications, and there is too much horizontal looseness, check the upper ball joint for wear.

1. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Upper Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.
2. If you find any looseness or can twist the stud with your fingers, replace the upper ball joint. Refer to Upper Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.

Pauleo · Post by **Pauleo** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:47 am

HenryJ wrote:
Pauleo wrote:How do you know if the ball joints are bad?
Important

* The vehicle must rest on a level surface.............If you find any looseness or can twist the stud with your fingers, replace the upper ball joint. Refer to Upper Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.

I had to ask!

Talk about a COMPLETE answer!!!

Thanks, HJ!

I think I'll leave this one for the dealership!!!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 12:05 pm

Pauleo wrote:I think I'll leave this one for the dealership!!!

Warranty issues so far...

HenryJ wrote:You have to really watch the Tech's! I had to talk to the Service manager to get them to replace the lower balljoints!

I had already checked them finding .130 horizontal slack in the right side and .160 in the left. Maximum allowable is .125.

After they inspected the truck I asked what parts had been ordered, they said one wheel bearing and after my asking why the bad balljoints were not being replaced they said that they were fine a wheel bearing was the only thing they found. I KNEW BETTER! So I was refered to the service manager, who said that they probably had not checked them and would have to send it out to an alignment shop to check the ball joints, they do not have a rack for checking them. (Total BS! ) It does not require a "rack" to check ball joints. What they did not know is that I had already gone to the alignment shop to confirm the readings I got using a dial indicator at my shop.

So, after explaining this they ordered the parts.

Moral of the story: do your homework and do NOT assume that they know what they are doing or will do the right thing , just because they work for a GM dealer.

quickbiker · Post by **quickbiker** » Sun Aug 28, 2005 9:49 am

They are not bad to replace. I just did all my upper and lowers just before I put it in the shop to get ripped off for SAS. lol