I think I need new wheels...what does everybody like?

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:00 am

Looking to get some new wheels/tires this summer. I think I'm going with some 30" Pro Comp AT or BFG AT. What I'm not sure of is what wheel to go with. I want to keep it at 15" diameter and I'm thinking it should be polished aluminum or chrome. So what is everyone's opinion on aftermarket wheels? What do you like and why?

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 9:29 am

04revx wrote:Looking to get some new wheels/tires this summer. I think I'm going with some 30" Pro Comp AT or BFG AT. What I'm not sure of is what wheel to go with. I want to keep it at 15" diameter and I'm thinking it should be polished aluminum or chrome. So what is everyone's opinion on aftermarket wheels? What do you like and why?

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 10:06 am

in case you dont know, your choices are slim to none. your rims have to have 6" of bs on a 15x7 rim...

thats why tons of s-10 people went with black rockcrawlers, because you can order the bs that you want

Jim · Post by **Jim** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 11:58 am

a2b wrote:in case you dont know, your choices are slim to none. your rims have to have 6" of bs on a 15x7 rim...

thats why tons of s-10 people went with black rockcrawlers, because you can order the bs that you want

These could be expensive you can order whatever backspacing you want

link

Made the long url a link-HJ

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:45 pm

Here Are Your Choices @ Centerline Wheels..

Build Your Own Wheels

Build By Bolt Pattern And You Can Specify From 3" To 5" Backspacing That'll Get You Close To Stock Backspacing

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Mon Apr 04, 2005 1:03 pm

dont get polished !!!! I have polished and there an extreme amount of work to get them back to a chrome like shine it can take 1-2 hours. Im lookin to get some new chrome wheels so I have a set for sale

with 5.5 backspacing

these will also fit

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 1:56 pm

jeff024 wrote:dont get polished !!!! I have polished and there an extreme amount of work to get them back to a chrome like shine it can take 1-2 hours. Im lookin to get some new chrome wheels so I have a set for sale with 5.5 backspacing

these will also fit

Those don't look like "4x4" wheels. I'd hate to get them dirty. They look awesome but I don't know about for a 4x4.

I saw some Mickey Thompson wheels in a shop today that I liked. I have to look into them further to see if I can get them with a 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern. Keep the pics coming. I want to see what everyone likes!

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 5:45 pm

heres mikeys truck wheelsMICKEYS

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Tue Apr 05, 2005 6:01 pm

more wheels
Ultra Type 50/51

Ultra Type 181 -
En4cer

centerlines

Eagle Alloy Wheels

Intro
Viking 5

Weld Wheel
53 Mountaincrusher

I like all these wheels

TheBigFitz · Post by **TheBigFitz** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:10 am

I am running these on my truck, American Racing Outlaw II. Not as flashy as some but they do look like they belong on a 4x4.

coffeedrnkr · Post by **coffeedrnkr** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 4:38 am

Get Yo BlInG oN!!!!!!

Be a PimP!

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:25 am

HAHA no bling bling here.

I like those Outlaw II's a lot. Look similar to the Mickey's that i saw. Thats the look i'm going for though.

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:26 am

TheBigFitz wrote:

I am running these on my truck, American Racing Outlaw II. Not as flashy as some but they do look like they belong on a 4x4.

Your truck looks good. Is that pic with the 2" BL?

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:08 am

What kind of money are you wanting to spend? I bought the Cragar 397s which are black but they sale the exact same wheel in chrome which are Cragar 398s. Summit racing has them for $49.95 each. They are 15X7 with 4" BS and the bolt pattern is 5X4.75. The black ones are only $35.95 each. You'll also need to buy the center caps which are about $10 each and lug nuts which will probably run you around $28 for 20. You won't want to use the stock lug nuts no matter what wheel you decide to buy.

Cragar 397s with chrome center caps and lug nuts tires 31X10.50X15 BFG AT.

barch97 · Post by **barch97** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:42 am

I've got very similar Cragar 342 to those. Just "D" shape cutouts instead of circles. Otherwise the same dimensions.

I think it depends on the color of your truck. Some (typically darker) colors look better with chrome and others (typically lighter) look better with black. Maybe it's just me though... I thought my sandalwood (bronze) cc looked awful with the stock dull aluminum wheels.

Also, steel is somewhat cheaper than aluminum or chrome.

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:49 am

Yellow Hammer wrote:What kind of money are you wanting to spend? I bought the Cragar 397s which are black but they sale the exact same wheel in chrome which are Cragar 398s. Summit racing has them for $49.95 each. They are 15X7 with 4" BS and the bolt pattern is 5X4.75. The black ones are only $35.95 each. You'll also need to buy the center caps which are about $10 each and lug nuts which will probably run you around $28 for 20. You won't want to use the stock lug nuts no matter what wheel you decide to buy.

Cragar 397s with chrome center caps and lug nuts tires 31X10.50X15 BFG AT.

Those look good! How is that 2" SL working out?

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:25 am

So far so good. I have had it on for about two years without any problems. The only problem I ran into was right after I first did the lift. I took it out to see how it felt before I did the front end alignment and noticed some pretty serious vibration coming from the front end. I found out that the CV boots slipped off and were flopping around because of the angle they were at. I bought some CV boot grease and some hose clamps to replace the original clamps. I repacked the boots, put them back on, and installed the hose clamps and haven't had a problem since. It was a mess though. The grease from the boots was all over the underside of the truck. Took me awhile to clean it up.

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:29 am

Here is a different angle to give you an idea of what it looks like with 4" of lift. I put sliders on so it hides the frame from the 2" BL.

04revx · Post by **04revx** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:33 am

Looks good yellow. Have you gone through ball joints or anything else since you installed it?

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:47 am

No, not yet but I figure I might replace them soon. There is no in and out movement from the wheel if you grab the tire on the top and bottom and try wiggling it. I think ball joints are relatively cheap but not for sure. I'm guessing they run about $18 each.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:59 am

Yellow Hammer wrote:I bought the Cragar 397s which are black but they sale the exact same wheel in chrome which are Cragar 398s. Summit racing has them for $49.95 each. They are 15X7 with 4" BS and the bolt pattern is 5X4.75.

Yellow, have you flexed your truck all the way with your current setup (2" BL, 2"SL, 15x7 rims with 4" BS, 1.25" rear spacers). I have been wanting to get some rims also, but I can see on my CC that if I have anymore BS than stock, I will be rubbing the back of the front wheel well. I have already cut off some of the fender to get off road clearance with factory rims and 31x10.5 MT/R's. Did the 2" SL make all the difference? I don't want to go the route of the 6" SL because I don't want 33's and drivetrain breakage with our weak front and rear diffs.

This would definitely happen as much as I take this thing off road.

Steve

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:25 am

Yeah, I have flexed it quite a bit. When I first put the wheels with 4" backspacing and 31X10.50 BFGs on, it did rub. I had to cut back a little to prevent this and also bang in the inside of the wheel well with a hammer. Below are the cut-out picks. With these cut-outs, I don't have any rub with the truck all the way flexed and the wheels turned. I didn't have to cut the back at all. The 4" BS wheels also prevents frame rub.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:40 am

Yellow Hammer wrote:Yeah, I have flexed it quite a bit. When I first put the wheels with 4" backspacing and 31X10.50 BFGs on, it did rub. I had to cut back a little to prevent this and also bang in the inside of the wheel well with a hammer. With these cut-outs, I don't have any rub with the truck all the way flexed and the wheels turned. I didn't have to cut the back at all. The 4" BS wheels also prevents frame rub.

I guess I will be doing some more cutting and looking into the 2"SL. Is the boot problem the only thing bad that you have noticed with the 2" SL? Also, where did you get your rock sliders? I really need some before I dent something.

I have seen the DeMello ones, but they seem a bit pricey.

Steve

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:49 am

The boots are the only problem that I have had. Me and a buddy of mine made the sliders ourselves. We bought some 2" square tubbing for the sliders and some 2" flat stock 1/2" thick for the brackets. It was a lot of work. He welded and I grinded and drilled holes. I think I ended up drilling about 50 1/2" holes and 16 5/8" holes before I was done. I swore to myself that I would never pick up a drill again. We used grade 8 bolts for mounting to the frame and painted them with bed liner spray. It all cost me about $280 dollars to do it myself. That price includes all the material, hardware, paint, and gas for my buddies welder.

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:50 am

Here's a better pic

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:00 am

That seems like a lot of work, but they do look nice, and they should take a good beating if needed.

Steve

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:28 am

It was definitely a lot of work. I did the body lift at the same time and it took about three days for everything. I told my buddy that he needs to manufacture these and try to make some money off of them but it just isn't worth it with all the time and effort that you have to put into them. He didn't want to have anything to do with it.

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 10:43 am

they should take a good beating if needed.

It has already saved me once. I came down pretty hard on a rock once and high sided the truck. If it weren't for the sliders, my rocker panel would have probably been bashed pretty good. All it did to the sliders was take a little paint off.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:02 pm

Yellow , where did you get the 2in SL and what cost are we talking about?

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:31 pm

I think you guys might be mistaken. When I wrote SL, I meant suspension lift not Superlift. All I did was crank the torsion bars for 2" in the front and install Daystar shackles for the rear. Sorry if that confused anyone. I'm not sure where you can get the 2" Superlift but from what I hear it's not worth the money. I think the Superlift is new upper A arms and then the torsion crank. I'm not sure about the rear. It's got to be shackles or add-a-leaf.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:37 pm

SL site says just that Aarms and shackles

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:47 pm

I just got off the phone with a friend of mine who installed the 2" Superlift on his ZR2 and he said that it comes with new upper A arms and shackles for the rear. He said that the new upper A arms are to give you a better angle on the CV shafts but that's it. We compared the angles of the shafts from his truck to my truck and there is not much of a difference. He couldn't remember for sure but he thinks he paid around $350 to $400 dollars for it. He said for the money, it's definitely not worth it. I paid $75 dollars for greasable Daystar shackles and that was it other than the front end alignment after I cranked the T-bars. You can get the Daystar shackles for $40 dollars if you go with the non-greasable ones.

coffeedrnkr · Post by **coffeedrnkr** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:49 pm

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

DONT GET THE 2" SUPERLIFT!!!!!! EVER!!!!!!

that is the worst mod I had ever done to my truck, after that my ifs just started going to sh!t b/c of the new angles on the ball joints and cv shafts.

The kit costs almost 500 bucks and their shocks were complete CRAP, it will cause nothing but bad things to your front end.

don't do it

It would be easier and cheaper just to crank the t-bars and get an alignment

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:53 pm

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!

I think that pretty much sums it up. LOL

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 2:39 pm

they are cranked, Im just worried if I go with the 6"SL and 33s it will put my rear bumper at about 29-30" and its not legal in Maryland and really dont wanna keep gettin pulled over .The area I live in they will pull you over for anything stupid.

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:01 pm

Jeff, call maryland MVA or state police dept. I am telling you they told me it was either 29" or 31" (I forgot which one) from the lowest point on your body...

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:42 pm

Go to this thread for state laws.
http://forum.zr2.com/ubb/noncgi/ultimat ... 5;t=000727

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 4:18 am

Yellow Hammer wrote:Go to this thread for state laws....

Or here - Lift Laws Guide

BTW , Maryland shows 28"

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 5:22 am

Yea, but that is not right, I am telling you guys when I called them thats not what they said... I am not even sure about that headlight and taillight height thing.

All I know is when I called the DMV, they told me it was either 29 or 31" from the lowest point on your body...

A buddy of mine called Maryland State Police and they said the same thing...

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 9:09 am

Seems to me that if you can't get a straight answer out of anyone, especially the DMV and MSP, I wouldn't worry too much about it because they don't seem to be too concerned. How much does the 6" Superlift and 5" TM & BDS bring our bumpers off the ground anyway?

Someone who has these lifts should send these specs to Henry so he can post them somewhere on the CC site for easy access. That would be good info for all of us expecting to get these lifts.

Henry, you should put all the specs you can. Example: headlight height, taillight height, front and rear bumper height, body height, etc..

coffeedrnkr · Post by **coffeedrnkr** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:45 pm

There is NO way that the 6" and 33's will put the bottom of your rear bumper over 30"

Mine measures 2 feet to the bottom of my reciever (which wasn't raised with the body lift).

I cant really measure the front bumper though

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 2:15 pm

the bottom of my rear bumper is at 22 5/8s now . With 5more inches from the SL now were at 27 5/8 then going from a 30in tire to a 32in will be plus 2more inches so now were at 29 5/8 to maybe even 30in just depends on the tire.

coffeedrnkr · Post by **coffeedrnkr** » Thu Apr 07, 2005 7:38 pm

That is crazy b/c mine with axle flip, longer shackles, and an add a leaf from a fullsize truck and my truck on 33's it measures 27 to the bottom of the rear bumper. Unless your truck is extraordinarily tall or something

You only add 1 inch of height for a 2 inch bigger tire, then the tire probably wont be as tall as it says so take off the 5/8 and you are at 28" to the bumper.

That is still taller than my truck so I dont see what is up (though I do have rear sag b/c the front is about 1-2" taller as of right now)

I think if you are aiming for under 30" you should be just fine.

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 9:15 am

Jeff024, you should only gain 1" going from 30s to 32s. You only gain a 1/2" of lift for every 1" of a bigger tire (1/2" at the top of the tire and 1/2" at the bottom of the tire for a total of 1" bigger tire)

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:33 am

ok so correct me if im wrong here but

this i what I have now 30/9.5/15 overall diameter is 29.5"

a 32/11.5/15 is at overall diameter of 31.5"

31.5
-29.5
---------
2.0 which would indcate a 2in gain

1in top and 1in bottom is 2in no matter how you look at it

SomeCrew · Post by **SomeCrew** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:46 am

yea, but only another inch in ride height.

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:46 am

1in top and 1in bottom is 2in no matter how you look at it

The 1" top is not sitting on the ground so you do not gain any lift from this. Only the bottom of the tire that is sitting on the ground will give you the lift therefore 1" of lift.

jeff024 · Post by **jeff024** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 10:56 am

he he got ya now

Yellow Hammer · Post by **Yellow Hammer** » Fri Apr 08, 2005 11:01 am

I made the same mistake when shopping for new tires thinking that 2" bigger tire will give 2" of lift until a friend of mine explained to me. It's an easy assumption to make.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

I think I need new wheels...what does everybody like?

I think I need new wheels...what does everybody like?

Re: I think I need new wheels...what does everybody like?