Where and how did you mount the LEDs?HenryJ wrote:
(I've added a couple indicator LEDs since this picture)
Heres the wiring:
Pin A YEL = Accesory Voltage
Pin B DK GRN = Rear Window washer Control
Pin C GRY = Rear Window Wiper Switch Signal
Pin D BLK = Trunk Release Switch Signal
Pin E BLK = Ground
Pin F GRY Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
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I use a pair of 1/8" 12 volt LED's from Painless wiring-
You can see them in this photo-
I did modify the internal lighting of the switch by removing part of the optical plastic that lights the left portion of the switch plate. and sanded the pictogram off the washer button.
The left side did not turn out as I would have liked, so I just put some opaque vinyl over it and installed the LED's.
The LED's are just a press fit. Drill the holes and push them in.
The upper yellow LED lights when my front aux. fog lights are on. The green LED lights while holding the momentary switch for the fuel transfer pump.
I do have another switch and plan to make another switch that is a little nicer, someday
Here is another source for 12 volt LED indicator lights -
You can see them in this photo-
I did modify the internal lighting of the switch by removing part of the optical plastic that lights the left portion of the switch plate. and sanded the pictogram off the washer button.
The left side did not turn out as I would have liked, so I just put some opaque vinyl over it and installed the LED's.
The LED's are just a press fit. Drill the holes and push them in.
The upper yellow LED lights when my front aux. fog lights are on. The green LED lights while holding the momentary switch for the fuel transfer pump.
I do have another switch and plan to make another switch that is a little nicer, someday
Here is another source for 12 volt LED indicator lights -
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri May 13, 2005 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Darn, that is a good job. You mounted the LEDs on the switch body itself? It appears that you did but, between my failing eyesight and the photo it is difficult for me to determine
I managed to get the gray face plate off and did not see much margin of error inside the housing.
I was thinking along the lines of putting the LEDs in the stock molding on the left of the blazer switch.
Is there a way to store these threads?
I got ahead of myself with the switch questions when my next winter project is the laptop GPS
Anyway, Hope you all are fine and wish you the very best during this holiday season
I managed to get the gray face plate off and did not see much margin of error inside the housing.
I was thinking along the lines of putting the LEDs in the stock molding on the left of the blazer switch.
Is there a way to store these threads?
I got ahead of myself with the switch questions when my next winter project is the laptop GPS
Anyway, Hope you all are fine and wish you the very best during this holiday season
Last edited by F9K9 on Mon Dec 13, 2004 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Here is a close-up-
and one of the wires hidden behind it-
and one of the wires hidden behind it-
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Thanks
I book marked and saved this thread for spring. If you need the "image room" then expect another tiresome question on this topic.
I almost hate to ask..........correct that! I hate to ask but, what did you do about the momentary "on" of the rear hatch?
Skip the question about the momentary "on" tail hatch switch.
I reread your answer and have that figured out. We used one for riot guns and CAR-15s to release the lock.
It was the momentary "off" that always left our local radio shack employees stunned! Needed them to kill the brake and reverse lights when needed. If they were not momentary a tired individual would forget to turn them back on.
Thanks again
I book marked and saved this thread for spring. If you need the "image room" then expect another tiresome question on this topic.
I almost hate to ask..........correct that! I hate to ask but, what did you do about the momentary "on" of the rear hatch?
Skip the question about the momentary "on" tail hatch switch.
I reread your answer and have that figured out. We used one for riot guns and CAR-15s to release the lock.
It was the momentary "off" that always left our local radio shack employees stunned! Needed them to kill the brake and reverse lights when needed. If they were not momentary a tired individual would forget to turn them back on.
Thanks again
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I'll do an page as time permits and I get some better pictures of a nicer switch mod.
Here are some quick shots of what to do:
Disassemble the switch. Just push in the four grey hooks that hold the face to the white back to release.
Then pull the clear plastic piece out
You will need to cut off the top and bottom parts (sorry for some of the blurry pics, I was doing this in a hurry)
I used two coats of primer on the inside , drilled one of the 5/32" holes for a LED, then painted the primer black.
Of course for the finished product I would paint the entire piece to match the dash and cover up the lettering on the front.
Push the LED into place and drill a 5/32" hole in the side of the back for the wires to exit.
Put all the pieces back in place. Push the wires through the hole.
Snap it back together.
You're done
I'll get some better photos and do a mod page ASAP.
Here are some quick shots of what to do:
Disassemble the switch. Just push in the four grey hooks that hold the face to the white back to release.
Then pull the clear plastic piece out
You will need to cut off the top and bottom parts (sorry for some of the blurry pics, I was doing this in a hurry)
I used two coats of primer on the inside , drilled one of the 5/32" holes for a LED, then painted the primer black.
Of course for the finished product I would paint the entire piece to match the dash and cover up the lettering on the front.
Push the LED into place and drill a 5/32" hole in the side of the back for the wires to exit.
Put all the pieces back in place. Push the wires through the hole.
Snap it back together.
You're done
I'll get some better photos and do a mod page ASAP.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
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Excellent pics and info
There is no way I could have taken pics yesterday during my CV clamp fiasco
I was just trying to keep my hands from being totally numb and completing rhe job before my trusty maglite died.
I do plan on a leisurely 2"BL in the spring and to document it fully
Will publish it "Body Lift for Dummies"! I think a black and yellow cover will be fitting
There is no way I could have taken pics yesterday during my CV clamp fiasco
I was just trying to keep my hands from being totally numb and completing rhe job before my trusty maglite died.
I do plan on a leisurely 2"BL in the spring and to document it fully
Will publish it "Body Lift for Dummies"! I think a black and yellow cover will be fitting
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KC Hilite wiring instructions (PDF)HenryJ wrote: Heres the wiring:
Pin A YEL = Accesory Voltage
Pin B DK GRN = Rear Window washer Control
Pin C GRY = Rear Window Wiper Switch Signal
Pin D BLK = Trunk Release Switch Signal
Pin E BLK = Ground
Pin F GRY Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
Am finally ready for this install. Can anyone tell me if "Pin A Yell = Accesory voltage" is what I need to attached the white wire to mentioned in their diagram?
If I am correct on that, am I correct in attaching "Pin C GRY = rear window wiper switch signal" to their "Load Green" Wire to post 86 on the relay?
Any advice would be deeply appreciated.
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OK, if you are using the factory wiper switch, then the white wire is the yellow wire and the gray wire is the green wire.f9k9 wrote:... tell me if "Pin A Yell = Accesory voltage" is what I need to attach the white wire to mentioned in their diagram?
If I am correct on that, am I correct in attaching "Pin C GRY = rear window wiper switch signal" to their "Load Green" Wire to post 86 on the relay?
You have the right idea, just use the existing wires in place of those in the diagram and it will work just fine.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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HenryJ wrote:OK, if you are using the factory wiper switch, then the white wire is the yellow wire and the gray wire is the green wire.f9k9 wrote:... tell me if "Pin A Yell = Accesory voltage" is what I need to attach the white wire to mentioned in their diagram?
If I am correct on that, am I correct in attaching "Pin C GRY = rear window wiper switch signal" to their "Load Green" Wire to post 86 on the relay?
You have the right idea, just use the existing wires in place of those in the diagram and it will work just fine.
Sorry, I didn't make it clearer
I am using the factory blazer switch and trying to do away with the KC switch.
Have the lights, on scene, and trying to figure things out.
Appreciate the help
I picked up a 12V red LED at radio shack and will see how that works out.
Have a little bit of down time because they appeared to arrive in perfect shape and packaged well
One sealed beam was completely shattered and the other's filament was broken.
I called Automotive Accessory Connect and a UPS drop ship label is enroute along with a new set of lights.
Have to give them a thumbs up on service and after searching for over six months for KC Daylighters, they had the very best price for Stainless Steel ones delivered at $119.00
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Re: Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
As I've read that our trucks received the suv wiring harness,(re: blazer rear wiper switch and harness) where in the back of the cab would I find the other end? thanks, Keith
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Re: Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
Just the forward harness. The back is the pick-up harness. You can see the 12" patch panel along the rocker panel under the back doors. That is the separation line
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
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Re: Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
ok, I understand what your saying but if I have the harness/plug for the rear wiper/wash/hatch behind my blank dash filler then where would I find the other end of the wires in that plug? would it be just an unused connector under the dash/ carpet/or headliner,? can you maybe give me a location to look? Thanks ,Keith
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Re: Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
I can not say for sure, but I suspect they terminate in the C209 connector. This is under the dash near the A pillar base. It is a big connection point where several harness connect. The upper harness for the trip computer connects there.
You will likely find it easier to just use the connectors and switch. Add your own wires and terminals. I cut them off long enough to solder my wires to them at the switch.
You will likely find it easier to just use the connectors and switch. Add your own wires and terminals. I cut them off long enough to solder my wires to them at the switch.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
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Re: Modding the wiper / hatch release switch
10-4, I appreciate the help. I was thinking of doing exactly what you suggested, great minds think alike!!!!