Fender Flares
Moderator: F9K9
Fender Flares
I'm hunting for ideas and I really like the looks of the ZR5 option. Only thing is I bought my truck 6 months before anyone knew about the ZR5. I'm thinking about making my own (sort of). I talked with the Chevy dealer and got a totally rediculous price on the flares. Something like $350 per flare? I also like the extend-a-flares but I seem to remember Brule saying something about they needed a lot of modifications to install.
Any suggestions anyone?
Any suggestions anyone?
- HenryJ
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I would go Bushwacker Extend-a-fender Flares. They are still the best, if not only other option, IMO.
You will need:
The front flares for '95 -up S-10 part# 49014 . These front flares will fit easy, and nice with very minor work.
The problem lies in the rear flares, The '95-up S-10 flares do have enough material to be cut down to fit.
It would be better if you could find rear flares for a '96-up Isuzu pickup. Bushwacker doesn't list them on their website though. Might be worth checking other manufacturers too.
If you really want flares and feel comfortable with grinding a set of new S-10 rear flares, go for it ...It can be done!
The complete set should run less than $350
You will need:
The front flares for '95 -up S-10 part# 49014 . These front flares will fit easy, and nice with very minor work.
The problem lies in the rear flares, The '95-up S-10 flares do have enough material to be cut down to fit.
It would be better if you could find rear flares for a '96-up Isuzu pickup. Bushwacker doesn't list them on their website though. Might be worth checking other manufacturers too.
If you really want flares and feel comfortable with grinding a set of new S-10 rear flares, go for it ...It can be done!
The complete set should run less than $350
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
a2b wrote:you know the flares sure do sound like a hot topic. considering we talk about them so much. sounds like it might make a good mod write up, hugh?
Well, I think they look pretty darned good on our trucks. If you're thinking about making me a guinea pig, about the only thing anyone will learn from me is a whole lot of new cuss words!
- HenryJ
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Our rear fenders (Crew Cab) are off of the South American S-10 Crew Cab. It is an Isuzu with a bowtie.
The Rear fenders on ours have a "squared" bulge across the top section of the quarter panel and the wheel well is wider.
I probably should have taken pictures of all the work I did but I had no idea that there would be more people interested, at the time.
What I did:
You will have to first remove the stock rear flares and store or sell them.
A contoured strip along the top of the new flare has to be cut to match the profile (about 1/2") and the bodyline recess is less pronounced requiring a pretty good trimming.
I used a compass (cheap set just like the ones we all had in school) Taped up the sharp end (so it wouldn't scratch the paint) and used a silver pencil (welders pencil) for marking the flare.
Hold it, the flare, up against the pickup squared vertically, set the compass to the widest gapped point and trace the contour. Keep the compass at 90* to the flare surface.
Then I used a thin cutoff wheel on my 4" grinder (a jig saw could be used but use masking tape to prevent scratching the flare) to cut 1/4" from the mark, smoothed the edges with a knife and file and refit and re-marked the lines. After about three times of doing this the gaps closed and it started fitting pretty good.
The welting that comes with them will cover minor imperfections in fit (1/8" or so)
The bottom portion of the front of the flare extends into the gap between the cab and bed and needs to be trimmed a little so it doesn't rub the cab.
Plan on it taking a weekend to do and take your time, trimming a little at a time.
The flare is not big enough to fit the wheel well so it will have two areas on the inner lip that will not touch. I mounted the lower portion with two screws about 6" apart and the top with three spaced about the same. Then filled the spaces in the corners of the well where the surfaces (lips) didn't touch with silicone.
Most people will never notice the little things that give up that they were not made for this truck. It has been a long time since I did this, hope I got it right...sheez it is starting to sound bad, huh?
Worst case scenario you will totally ruin a set of rear flares and be out $175.
It is not for the faint of heart, but you don't have to be a body and fender expert either.
I'll get some close up pics, weather permitting, in the next couple days.
The Rear fenders on ours have a "squared" bulge across the top section of the quarter panel and the wheel well is wider.
I probably should have taken pictures of all the work I did but I had no idea that there would be more people interested, at the time.
What I did:
You will have to first remove the stock rear flares and store or sell them.
A contoured strip along the top of the new flare has to be cut to match the profile (about 1/2") and the bodyline recess is less pronounced requiring a pretty good trimming.
I used a compass (cheap set just like the ones we all had in school) Taped up the sharp end (so it wouldn't scratch the paint) and used a silver pencil (welders pencil) for marking the flare.
Hold it, the flare, up against the pickup squared vertically, set the compass to the widest gapped point and trace the contour. Keep the compass at 90* to the flare surface.
Then I used a thin cutoff wheel on my 4" grinder (a jig saw could be used but use masking tape to prevent scratching the flare) to cut 1/4" from the mark, smoothed the edges with a knife and file and refit and re-marked the lines. After about three times of doing this the gaps closed and it started fitting pretty good.
The welting that comes with them will cover minor imperfections in fit (1/8" or so)
The bottom portion of the front of the flare extends into the gap between the cab and bed and needs to be trimmed a little so it doesn't rub the cab.
Plan on it taking a weekend to do and take your time, trimming a little at a time.
The flare is not big enough to fit the wheel well so it will have two areas on the inner lip that will not touch. I mounted the lower portion with two screws about 6" apart and the top with three spaced about the same. Then filled the spaces in the corners of the well where the surfaces (lips) didn't touch with silicone.
Most people will never notice the little things that give up that they were not made for this truck. It has been a long time since I did this, hope I got it right...sheez it is starting to sound bad, huh?
Worst case scenario you will totally ruin a set of rear flares and be out $175.
It is not for the faint of heart, but you don't have to be a body and fender expert either.
I'll get some close up pics, weather permitting, in the next couple days.
Last edited by HenryJ on Sat Dec 14, 2002 8:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
Thanks! I didn't think about the "Isuzu Connection" but I guess I should have known. Anyway, I'll admit a tad bit of fear at the thought of trying to trim these things. I know myself too well. I can fiz things pretty good but when it comes to modifications, I tend to get into trouble a lot. I'm looking forward to the pics. Maybe it's not as hard as I'm thinking.
- HenryJ
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Pictures as promised.
More pictures and a description here-Rear flares
Click the "ThunderII" link in my signature line for My Crew Cab Homepage.
More pictures and a description here-Rear flares
Click the "ThunderII" link in my signature line for My Crew Cab Homepage.
Last edited by HenryJ on Fri Jan 11, 2008 2:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- HenryJ
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- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
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The rear is just slightly better (new flares are thinner than the stock ones). The front , however, mounts inside the fender lip. So I lose a little.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Conman
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- Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 7:14 am
- Location: Long Island, NY USA
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Those came out nice! They are much wider than the ZR5 flares(they even look wider than the ZR2 flares). My front ZR5 flares do seem to eat into the wheel well also so it rubs also. Dealer said my truck was in spec so they did not raise the front, BTW. Looks like I might have to do it myself. I just raised my t-bars on my trooper this weekend so maybe next weekend I'll do the Crew.
Cheers,
Con
Cheers,
Con
[size=75]2007 Hummer H3 all Stock
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Sold: 2004 Chevy Avalanche Z71 all Stock.
Sold: 2002 Chevy S10 Crew Cab ZR5 - Mods: Truxedo Bed Cover, APC and TYC Lights.[/size]
Conman wrote:Those came out nice! They are much wider than the ZR5 flares(they even look wider than the ZR2 flares). My front ZR5 flares do seem to eat into the wheel well also so it rubs also. Dealer said my truck was in spec so they did not raise the front, BTW. Looks like I might have to do it myself. I just raised my t-bars on my trooper this weekend so maybe next weekend I'll do the Crew.
Cheers,
Con
finally a mod to the ole zr5!!!
[size=75] -HOBIE
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- HenryJ
- Admin K Elite
- Posts: 12705
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 9:14 pm
- Location: Ontario, Oregon
- Contact:
Approx. 1 1/2 inch, although I did not measure it.how far do the bushwacker flares extend out further than the stock ones?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK