Quad Beam Headlight Mod

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 29, 2003 7:03 pm

This ROCKS! I've said it before...I love the low budget Mods!

Quite some time ago I was watching the discussion on ZR2.com on mods to get High and Low beams to both come on in the highbeam position. I lost track and forgot about the mod.

It has now been used for over a year by "Mightymouse".

It took me about all of ten minutes to do the mod!

I used 12" of 16 ga. wire , one splice connector , male and female insulated spade connectors and a 5/16' hole terminal connector.

Just grounded the solid yellow wire to the bolt in the radiator support behind the turn signal assy. (used a 10mm wrench)

The spade connection is so that I can easily disconnect it if the need arises.

Here is the thread that revived the interest: bright lights

The original thread: Painless wiring kit

And here is a mod page that "2001_S-10_4x4" did: Headlight mod pictures

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Thu May 29, 2003 8:55 pm

Wow,
I've been thinking about the quad lights for some time. The question was not answered clearly, does the high and low beam pull power from different sources? Only reason I ask is I remember GM had a recall that disabled the foglights(I think it was the Grand Prix) when high beams were turned on cause it was pulling too much power and shorting or possibly causing a fire. I just want to make sure the electrical can take the extra load as when I use highbeams, it would be for hours since alot of highways in NY are not lighted in rural areas.

What I might do is add a relay so I can turn it on and off from the cab. I would def. keep it on in the city for safety reasons.....

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 29, 2003 9:07 pm

If you read the threads, it states that the High and Low beams have separate wires (ie. not shared load on a single wire) so the only increase in load is to the alt.

I feel comfortable with the mod after reading all the information, and "weeding" out the nonsense.

It has been tested for a year now , so I'm convinced

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Thu May 29, 2003 9:43 pm

HenryJ wrote:If you read the threads, it states that the High and Low beams have separate wires (ie. not shared load on a single wire) so the only increase in load is to the alt.

I feel comfortable with the mod after reading all the information, and "weeding" out the nonsense.

It has been tested for a year now , so I'm convinced

Hi, I saw that post. I was not sure if it goes back to the fusebox/relay panel to the same fuse/relay. I'm sorry but I have not studied the Crew as much as I know my Troopers. But in one post, someone had a 5amp fuse and blew it, but a 15amp did not. So it does appear it's pulling a normal amount of power which does appears that yellow wire is only drawing power from one of the lights then.

I think because the mod is so easy, it's almost not believable in this day and age of electronics and computers, it can be done without spending $39.99. Great find!

BTW, I've seen aftermarket kits that allow you to run the headlights directly off the battery, instead of through the factory wires. so what it does is plug one side where the bulb sould have gone, and the other side of the wire kit, the bulbs. inbetween is a relay and thick wire to the battery(or say a second battery). so when you turn your lights on, the factory power only powers up the relay so lower load on the factory light wires. This won't work with the highbeams probably cause of the DRL, but atleast this would reduce the power when in quad beam mode. This is probably an overkill but I think these kits were designed so you can use those high power aftermarket headlight bulbs.

a2b · Post by **a2b** » Thu May 29, 2003 10:27 pm

nice, i have always wanted to do that

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Fri May 30, 2003 5:06 am

I was JUST thinking about this mod on the drive into the office! But, I had always been told that it couldn't be done because of the DRL's.

Thanks for the info!

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 4:37 am

OK, there was a glitch that required installing a relay. As described above all four lights are on when the DRL is on.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Wed Jun 11, 2003 8:45 am

Nice. I noticed that painless is advertising a quad kit that for DRL trucks. I saw it in a styling concepts catalog, but it did not have what models it worked on. I'll get more info and post.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:35 am

I'll bet it costs more than what I paid for a relay , 12" of wire and 8 connectors.

Other than the printed instructions , that is probably what is in the kit

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 02, 2003 6:09 pm

Added a mod page with a color coded picture for those who need some help with this mod:

Quadbeam Headlight Mod

dhawke · Post by **dhawke** » Thu Jul 03, 2003 4:25 am

Thanks. That helps us Electrically Challenged folks!

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:40 pm

HenryJ wrote:Added a mod page with a color coded picture for those who need some help with this mod:

Quadbeam Headlight Mod

Brule, I just want to verify what you are saying, If I understand your mod, the yellow wire activates the relay when switching over to highbeams? Or is the relay always on when the DRL is on? Is there 12volts coming from the yellow wire? I guess I just have to try it one day. I just don't want to blow up my lights.

Thanks,
Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 6:13 pm

Conman wrote: Brule, I just want to verify what you are saying, If I understand your mod, the yellow wire activates the relay when switching over to highbeams? Or is the relay always on when the DRL is on? Is there 12volts coming from the yellow wire?

Not quite right.
The yellow wire when grounded turns the low beams on.
The relay is only closed when the highbeams are on.
The yellow wire is negative to activate the lowbeams.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 8:39 pm

HenryJ wrote:
Conman wrote: Brule, I just want to verify what you are saying, If I understand your mod, the yellow wire activates the relay when switching over to highbeams? Or is the relay always on when the DRL is on? Is there 12volts coming from the yellow wire?
Not quite right.
The yellow wire when grounded turns the low beams on.
The relay is only closed when the highbeams are on.
The yellow wire is negative to activate the lowbeams.

That's what I thought but then how does the yellow wire activate the relay? Is your diagram backwords? Should yellow be on 87(85 on your diagram) and the highbeam+ be on 85 instead? I just want to make sure.

Thanks,
Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 10:18 pm

Conman wrote:That's what I thought but then how does the yellow wire activate the relay? Is your diagram backwords? Should yellow be on 87(85 on your diagram) and the highbeam+ be on 85 instead? I just want to make sure.

I know it looks a little wrong if you look at it and try to understand the diagram-

No matter what you try I'm not going to second guess the color coding

Believe me it is right.

The whole headlight sysetm would take forever to try to explain, with the DRL AHL, switch , etc. there are some strange things happening. For instance there is no dedicated positive and negative, they rotate.

depending on the activation (AHL, DRL...)

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 7:07 am

HenryJ wrote:
Conman wrote:That's what I thought but then how does the yellow wire activate the relay? Is your diagram backwords? Should yellow be on 87(85 on your diagram) and the highbeam+ be on 85 instead? I just want to make sure.
I know it looks a little wrong if you look at it and try to understand the diagram-

No matter what you try I'm not going to second guess the color coding Believe me it is right.

The whole headlight sysetm would take forever to try to explain, with the DRL AHL, switch , etc. there are some strange things happening. For instance there is no dedicated positive and negative, they rotate. depending on the activation (AHL, DRL...)

Ahh I get it now.

Mazda does something similar with the power door locks. I'm going to get some time and try this soon. Thanks. for figuring this out cause I know I would have never.

Cheers,
Con

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 8:17 am

I know we have 3 threads running on the same topic right now, but where are you guys splicing in to the wiring? Right at the headlights, or is it up at the underhood relay/fuse center?

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 11:00 am

adrenalnjunky wrote:I know we have 3 threads running on the same topic right now, but where are you guys splicing in to the wiring? Right at the headlights, or is it up at the underhood relay/fuse center?

It appears the easiest place is to tap in right at the drivers headlight area since all the wires you need are right there. That's where I plan to tap in.

Cheers,
Con

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:29 pm

I tried doing this mod myself but had a little trouble with it on the relay instalation. I spliced into the all the wires like the diagram showed but my drivers side light wouldnt work for some reason..

so ill try again tomorrow. I dont understand the whole negative posative thing.. but then again I am also the one who couldnt get my cigarette lighter to work..

And to think! I work on a Multi Million dollar F-15 EAGLE and keep it flying every single day..

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 5:54 pm

2bunik wrote:I tried doing this mod myself ...wouldnt work for some reason.....couldnt get my cigarette lighter to work.. ...And to think! I work on a Multi Million dollar F-15 EAGLE and keep it flying every single day..

I'll bet this thread would be a real confidence builder back on the base

Would more pictures be of help? I added a photo to the mod page

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 9:25 pm

Huston there may be a problem!
Looks like I need some marinade for my crow....
I need to revise the relay diagram...
OK, here's what happened..I had the diagram rotated clockwise and obviously incorrect.
Conman and 2bunik , My apologies

I do make mistakes SORRY. Be a little more persistant on calling me stupid

The diagram is correct now, and actually makes sense when you look at it too.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 12:23 am

Thats cool.. We really appreciate you taking the time for all of us to have a place to gather .. just a bump in the road for me

... and the longest relay install I have ever done..

but tomorrow is a new day and my fortune cookie said " the light is bright and you will reach it" maybe it means quads in the future

NTXCrew · Post by **NTXCrew** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:18 am

stupid j/k

You're smarter than Mr. Miyagi!!!

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 8:48 am

I had been silently wondering why your wiring diagram showed the ground going to yet more ground when the relay was working.

Now it makes sense--thanks for the revision Henry

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:55 pm

HenryJ wrote:Huston there may be a problem!
Looks like I need some marinade for my crow....
I need to revise the relay diagram...
OK, here's what happened..I had the diagram rotated clockwise and obviously incorrect.
Conman and 2bunik , My apologies I do make mistakes SORRY. Be a little more persistant on calling me stupid
The diagram is correct now, and actually makes sense when you look at it too.

Thanks. No problem. You still spent the time figuring this out for us. From the new Diagram, I assume there is a separate wire for DRL for the High. So if I understand the diagram now, the when you select Highbeam, it then grounds the yellow wire which activates the low beams. So the highbeam wire you tap have nothing to do with the DRL highbeams. Nice and simple.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 8:04 pm

Conman wrote:From the new Diagram, I assume there is a separate wire for DRL for the High. So if I understand the diagram now, the when you select Highbeam, it then grounds the yellow wire which activates the low beams. So the highbeam wire you tap have nothing to do with the DRL highbeams. Nice and simple.

Yes , I think you understand what is going on.

You do need to use the green and purple wires, for activation. As I stated before the positive and negative rotate, so they need to be used to prevent shorting if you used a deticated +/-.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sun Nov 02, 2003 11:52 am

I see it now ....

....

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 6:19 pm

2bunik wrote:I see it now .... ....

Does that mean you're "quadlit" now?

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 3:25 pm

no I have been so burned out on taking that headlight off and messing with it I havent tried it again . but after i get done reading these new posts I ll get back out there...

Rusty · Post by **Rusty** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 4:47 pm

2bunik wrote: no I have been so burned out on taking that headlight off and messing with it I havent tried it again . but after i get done reading these new posts I ll get back out there...

Try it with a brush guard! I've been putting off doing this mod only because I don't feel like messing with taking off the push bar/brush guard again just to get at the headlights.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Tue Nov 04, 2003 5:15 pm

oh yeah I got the mod. Im gonna test out how it looks at night .. I cant wait till I go to work.. he he It was very easy now that instructions have been revised.

.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 7:40 am

Make sure your relay isn't bad.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 1:55 pm

Edit:

Because if it is, this mod won't work.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Mon Nov 17, 2003 11:05 pm

Edit:

Sorry to take up 3 posts. But I was talking nonsense. Edited it away to shorten the post up, get good info (thanks 2Bunik) to the top.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 12:10 am

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU ARE connecting 87 and NOT 87A to your low beams.. 87A will cause your truck to act funny. same as you mentioned above. Also check your fuses. I had to change mine to 15s so it could quit blowing them..
then continue
I had alot of trouble too when I instlled mine. ..
This is the way I wired mine up and it works fine.
I hope it helps. I hav an 03 myself. with DRLS and AHL

this is the way it works. in this case

all a relay does is energize and connect two poles to make a complete circuit.. you have the purple wire from your high beam to act as a + (86)
then you have the green to act as a -(85)..
when the purple gets power (in this case when you switch over to high beams). it energizes the relay.in turn the relay will pull the lever looking thing in the diagram over to (87) <-------(closed loop)..
but when the relay is NOT energized. the lever will rest on 87A which is nothing.<----------(open loop)

I know the colors are right for sure. however i cant remeber whether purple was + or - .. but it works either way so dont worry.
If you need more help . you can call me.
I hope I helped. My DRLS work fine. ..

See updates at the end of the thread, this diagram and color codes did not work afterall-HJ

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:53 pm

Still having trouble. MANY MANY thanks to 2bunik who is helping me.

I have a quick question on this mod...

Is anybody using a Radioshack 30A Automotive Relay? I'm wondering if this relay is tripping the circuit with the small amperage of the DRL's (even though the current would be reversed going through the relay, and in theory this should actually pull on the magnet trying to 'open' the 30/87 switch more, not close it), but nobody else's relay does. I'm out of other ideas. DRL's are activating the low beams still.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:07 pm

coming from experience -- the swapping of 85 and 86 doesn't make any difference -- I can understand what you are trying to say, but It has never made much difference for me in many years of 12V Car audio and Security.

*edit -- not sure but I think t's just an electromagnet that is being energized, and based on it's location it could attract the switch regardless of polarity.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:17 pm

That's what I thought... which makes me wonder how this mod works. The purple wire going into the high beam is negative when highs are on and positive (from the rt headlight) when DRL's are on. The green/white wire is closed to the yellow/black wire when high beams are on, and opened to a ground when DRL's are on. This is how the highbeams run in series for the DRL's. So since this works for other people, but not me, does the tap-in location on the wire make a difference? I hit the right wires, they're attached to the right poles on the relay, but the DRL's are activating my relay and grounding (lighting) the lows. Or did I just happen to buy the truck that this doesn't work on LOL.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:26 pm

I'll take a pic of where I tapped into mine tonight and post it for you.

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:39 pm

Ok--this is where I tapped into the wiring -- just popped the grille shell off--takes 3 minutes.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:31 pm

marks10cc wrote:The purple wire going into the high beam is negative when highs are on and positive (from the rt headlight) when DRL's are on. The green/white wire is closed to the yellow/black wire when high beams are on, and opened to a ground when DRL's are on. This is how the highbeams run in series for the DRL's. So since this works for other people, but not me, does the tap-in location on the wire make a difference?

I would say the location is not as important as making sure all your "taps" are good and nothing shorted or disconnected. The yellow/black wire is LH low beam.

I hit the right wires, they're attached to the right poles on the relay, but the DRL's are activating my relay and grounding (lighting) the lows.

The problem you're having sounds like the yellow wire is grounded all the time. Double check the relay to make sure that it is "open" when the relay is inactive.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 12:42 pm

I disassembled everything to make sure the headlights worked without the relay, and they do. I re-installed all of the wires and a new relay that is definately a normal open relay. The quadbeams work (always have) but the lows are still coming on with the DRL's.

Could it be these Radioshack 30A Automotive relays? Are you guys using different relays? I'm wondering if the ultra small amperage from the DRL's are tripping my relays but nobody elses. This is the third relay I've tried. And I know I have it wired the same way as the diagram shows.

Tapped purple to activate - (86)
Tapped green/white to activiate + (85)
Tapped yellow to normal open (30)
Grounded relay supply (87) to the screw by the driver headlight on the radiator support

I'm at wits end. Guess this mod isn't for me

Here's the wire schematics for 2003's headlight system.

DRL Relay
Multi-function Switch
Headlight Switch

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 9:39 pm

marks10cc wrote:I disassembled everything to make sure the headlights worked without the relay, and they do. I re-installed all of the wires and a new relay that is definately a normal open relay. The quadbeams work (always have) but the lows are still coming on with the DRL's.

Could it be these Radioshack 30A Automotive relays? Are you guys using different relays? I'm wondering if the ultra small amperage from the DRL's are tripping my relays but nobody elses. This is the third relay I've tried. And I know I have it wired the same way as the diagram shows.

Boy I wish I could be there to do some testing

The only difference that I see is the yellow/black wire making a jump in the DRL.jpg on 2001's it only goes to the LH low beam.

I am actually using a Ford (fomoco) relay robbed from a donor at the salvage yard. I find it hard to believe that the relay would be the problem.

This may be out in left field , but is the column switch in the low beam position when the lows are on with the DRL?

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 9:52 pm

I'm wondering if they changed the DRL on the 03's as I think they did that on the fullsize(painless has a different part number for 03 compared to the 02. If that's the case, I wonder if the 03 painless kit might work for the 03 s10 crews. Just speculating.

If the above is the case, maybe two relays or maybe a one-way diode(resister? that makes power only flow oneway). This might make the scheme work with one relay.

I'm sorry Henry is going through this as he figured this mess out the first time. My guess is that there was a change for 03 models so Henry your in the clear!

So we need to breakdown who has done the mod and it working(or not)

01 Henry OK.
02?
03 notworking?

Con

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Thu Nov 20, 2003 11:37 pm

2003 1 --henry j method worked here. next

the problem marks10cc is having is the same problem I had when I just ground out my low beams to the frame . I tried and couldnt come up with anything for markcc.. . unless DRL's were removed. sorry mark

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 1:09 pm

What type of testing? I can do it and post results this weekend. I would really like to get this to work, maybe some tinkering will convince it.

2bunik, didn't you mention you had the low beam DRL's? I'm wondering if that's why your worked and mine didn't. Anybody have a 2003 highbeam DRL truck that this worked on? I still think I did something wrong, but can't find it.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 1:33 pm

marks10cc wrote:What type of testing? I can do it and post results this weekend. I would really like to get this to work, maybe some tinkering will convince it.

2bunik, didn't you mention you had the low beam DRL's? I'm wondering if that's why your worked and mine didn't. Anybody have a 2003 highbeam DRL truck that this worked on? I still think I did something wrong, but can't find it.

my 02 high beam light is my DRL as well. I'm pretty sure the 01 were high beam DRL as well. So it appears this mod will work on 01-03 with no issues. Anyone with a 04 yet?

Cheers,
Con

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 2:36 pm

I just tried the column switch in both places, no go. The yellow/black wire in that diagram is marked as E09 while the white/green is marked Domestic Only, our trucks don't have the yellow/black wire either. I'm not sure what E09 is, but it's not domestic

If the wiring is the same, it has to be the relay. Conman, 2bunik, where did you buy your relays? I'm using a $4 Radioshack that may just be tripping with low power. Pepboys has Hella relays, is there anyway to buy a relay that won't trip below a specified amperage?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 2:55 pm

marks10cc wrote:If the wiring is the same, it has to be the relay.

This looks like a good one from NAPA online $14.49-

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 3:10 pm

I use Bosch 30Amp Relays. Car stereo shops should have them.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 7:24 pm

marks10cc wrote:I just tried the column switch in both places, no go. The yellow/black wire in that diagram is marked as E09 while the white/green is marked Domestic Only, our trucks don't have the yellow/black wire either. I'm not sure what E09 is, but it's not domestic

If the wiring is the same, it has to be the relay. Conman, 2bunik, where did you buy your relays? I'm using a $4 Radioshack that may just be tripping with low power. Pepboys has Hella relays, is there anyway to buy a relay that won't trip below a specified amperage?

I did not do the mod yet. I bought my relays from JCW, When they came, one of them was a DEI(viper, hornet, etc). I don't remember if the other was a DEI as well. I don't think the relay your using will matter as long as it's working properly. Just run to wallys world and get a relay there and see if it works the same.

Just triple verify that you are tapping the correct wires. Unfortunately we are not good help for you. Good Luck.

Con

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Fri Nov 21, 2003 7:24 pm

I have a 95 mustang coupe .. I ripped the relay for the convertable top I dont have out

.
I have an 03 with low beam drls..

smokinjoe · Post by **smokinjoe** » Sat Nov 22, 2003 1:52 pm

2bunik wrote: I have an 03 with low beam drls..

my 03 DRL's are the high beam, i wonder why yours are lows?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Nov 22, 2003 2:01 pm

smokinjoe wrote:
2bunik wrote: I have an 03 with low beam drls..
my 03 DRL's are the high beam, i wonder why yours are lows?

Is it a Sonoma vs. S-10 thing?

smokinjoe · Post by **smokinjoe** » Sat Nov 22, 2003 2:02 pm

i wonder if it is?

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 12:48 am

I dont know but I am confused with this as well.
..

NTXCrew · Post by **NTXCrew** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 5:07 pm

This is getting amazing....when was the last time we had to split a topic onto a page 2????

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 8:44 pm

okay this mod has gonne a little far. There is alot of confusing info up there.like was said before.
IF YOU HAVE DONE THIS MOD. can you state
year of truck?
and
s10 or sonoma?
if its working fine? It might help someone decipher the longest reply to a topic on this board.

PLEASE guys....

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:20 pm

Don't worry about hurting my feelings , if it doesn't work lets see if we can find out why.

My 2001 has AHL ,DRL and the relay works for me. I have checked several times and the lows are not on , only highs for DRL.

The only thing that I can think of is the DRL on mine may be full intensity. Perhaps the 2003 with a diminished intensity DRL could cause a different wiring to be needed.

Any suggestions on what to tap to get things working?

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:28 pm

The wife came to pick me up today which never happens. and all four lights were on .

DUDE I opts checked them when I installed it. remember all them post a while back on how i got them working and all. ? I know they were working.. but today I found out I was wrong. but marks10cc is on the same boat with me... I feel though that the DRL's are gonna go out the window tomorrow..

I was searching right now on how to disable them. If you know how let me know.. thanx.. I wasnt gonna post cause I didnt want to cause confusion.. more confusion.. So ok
SONOMA
03
DONT WORK WITH DRLS but work fine otherwise. I love it at night. and will kill the DRLs before the mod goes... I have one week to fiigure this out

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:32 pm

The only thing I've come with thus far is to tap into the purple closer to the multi-function switch. That is where the purple is grounded to activate the high beams. By the looks on the schematics, the BCM interferes with the purple wire somewhere near the under hood fuse block. If I could tap in between that and the multi-function switch, it should be a dead wire during DRL's.

I haven't found the wire yet. I want to stay under the hood, but I have a feeling there's gonna be a whole mess of purple wires near that fuse block

(edit: should we split the topic since the 01's and 02's are working? 2bunik's right, no need to confuse anybody, seems to be just us 2 so far)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 23, 2003 9:37 pm

2bunik wrote:... all four lights were on . DUDE I opts checked them when I instaled it. remember all them post a while back on how i got them working and all. ? I know they were working.. but today I found out I was wrong. but marks10cc is on the same boat with me...

Check them again and see if they are still all on w/DRL , let me know what position the highbeam switch is in (high or Low) , then push your dome light switch four times to disable them, do they all go out?
Push it four more times do they all four come back on?
If so push the dome light switch four more times to disable them once again then shut the truck off and restart it, are they still all four on?

Sorry for the long "run-a-round" , but I'm trying to narrow things down.

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Wed Nov 26, 2003 8:39 pm

sorry it took so long... clouds ruined the possibility of testing (AHL)

Highbeam switch - Low: Low beams and High DRL's
Highbeam switch - High: Low beams and High DRL's
Dome Light Overide: All lighs off
Dome Light Overide, then back on: Low beams and High DRL's
Dome Light Override... shut truck off, took key out, restart: Low beams and High DRL's

it won't go away

I have an idea, but need more info on the 'flash to pass' feature. Would it be an overload on the system to have the high beam switch turn on flash to pass (which lights all four lights) rather than the high beams? There's a brown, yellow and purple wire coming from the switch. If you cut the purple from the switch, and tap it (from the switch) into the brown, the flash to pass would be activated in the full pull back switch position. But I don't know if that's a good thing.

Conman · Post by **Conman** » Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:23 pm

marks10cc wrote:The only thing I've come with thus far is to tap into the purple closer to the multi-function switch. That is where the purple is grounded to activate the high beams. By the looks on the schematics, the BCM interferes with the purple wire somewhere near the under hood fuse block. If I could tap in between that and the multi-function switch, it should be a dead wire during DRL's.

I haven't found the wire yet. I want to stay under the hood, but I have a feeling there's gonna be a whole mess of purple wires near that fuse block

(edit: should we split the topic since the 01's and 02's are working? 2bunik's right, no need to confuse anybody, seems to be just us 2 so far)

Who with an 02 has done this mod? I have not but I wanted to add the info that mine DRL do appear to be lower power highbeam lights.

The plot thickens.

Con

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:37 pm

marks10cc wrote:
it won't go away

I have an idea, but need more info on the 'flash to pass' feature. Would it be an overload on the system to have the high beam switch turn on flash to pass (which lights all four lights) rather than the high beams? There's a brown, yellow and purple wire coming from the switch. If you cut the purple from the switch, and tap it (from the switch) into the brown, the flash to pass would be activated in the full pull back switch position. But I don't know if that's a good thing.

Ok, so I'm just guessing , but it's not working for you ?

The flash to pass idea : I thought that it was not a seperate wire , but more a function of the switch making contact with both high and low when pulled back then going to either high or low when released.
Bypassing this would effectively have all four on all the time?

Did you try just grounding the yellow wire (no relay) ?

Does that function the same as it does with the relay installed (lows on with drl)?

The DRL run in a series for reduced intensity right? So which polarity is the LH Highbeam. Is the purple "+" fed from the RH lamp, during DRL operation?

I think the trick is to figure out either a "+" or "-" from one of the headlamps that is the opposite polarity during DRL operation as opposed to highbeam operation.

Obviously the relay is active at all times, this may mean that tapping the RH headlamp may work.
If they do indeed run in a series for drl then we need to tap the wires that are both positive during DRL, and one is negative for highbeam operation.
This is going to require testing the DK BLU for the RH Highbeam feed.

This is still a little foggy for me , but lets see if this makes sense.

LH Headlamp= (green w/white +) (purple -) = active highbeam
RH Headlamp= (DK Blue +) (purple -) = active highbeam

LH Headlamp (green w/white -)(purple- isolated between lamps)(DK blue +) RH headlamp= DRL

Is that how it is working?

Crew02 · Post by **Crew02** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 2:19 pm

For those of you having a problem with this, you can buy a kit to do it from Summit. It includes the relay, and all of the wiring. Oh, and instructions. It is a lot more expensive ($37.95), however it is painless.

Summit PN# PRF-30821

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 3:30 pm

Crew02 wrote:For those of you having a problem with this, you can buy a kit to do it from Summit. It includes the relay, and all of the wiring. Oh, and instructions. It is a lot more expensive ($37.95), however it is painless.

Summit PN# PRF-30821

Thanks, I wonder if it will have the same problems we are on the 2003?
I see it is listed as for 1999-2002 Painless wiring relay page

It does show it working with the purple yellow wires, so maybe the solution is to eliminate using the green w/white wire?

marks10cc · Post by **marks10cc** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 7:17 pm

Just grounding the yellow wire does have the same effect as the relay, all four on for DRL (highs at reduced intesity), and all four on for highbeam operation (highs at normal intesity).

For DRL, the DK Blue wire is always activated as positive, as is the yellow with black stripe. When the ignition is on OR the headlamp switch is turned on with ignition off, power is fed to these wires. I checked it today with a voltmeter. Both DK blue wires on the RH (low and high) have power anytime the truck is running with the emergency brake off, or if the headlamp switch is activated. We also found that using the dome override button actually cuts off the power to these wires.

DRL: the DK Blue wire is always charged, so the RH Highbeam receives the positive flow. The BCM has a 'Highbeam Dimmer Switch' that releases the purple from being grounded and creates a circuit between the RH high and LH high, using the purple wire. The DRL relay (pin number 5) grounds the green/white wire. The high beams are then in series. However, the DK blue wire (there's two, but they come from the same fuse) and the yellow/black wire (from the LH fuse) are receiving power, so if you ground the yellow the lows will light too. The relay is definately tripping and groudning the yellow. We received a signal with the green/white and purple wires in DRL operation and high beam operation, both at 11.5V (truck wasn't running).

FTP: according to that schematic, the multi-function switch acutually has an FTP switch that sends a ground through a brown wire between the swtich and the BCM. What the BCM does with it, I have no idea. It may just be a signal to let the BCM know that FTP is active, but not actually activating the FTP. However, I think the switch is the place to be. Since I'm taking my truck in for service on Monday, I didn't fool around too much, but it looks like the wiring harness is right at the bottom of the steering wheel with a decent amount of room to work. I haven't figured out exactly what to do there, but I'm thinking if we tap into the switch to 'fool' both the headlights and BCM, it may just work.

Con, this may just be an '03 thing. Many laws changed for vehicles in '03 which caused the demise of certain vehicles, like the Ford Cougar, Chevy Camaro, etc. It is entirely possible that the DRL system was changed to meet 2007 (? is that the year) regulations which currently ask for all cars manufactured and sold in the US to have DRL. I think someone mentioned that the Silverado changed, I know the Malibu did. It may just be '03 and above. I'm just guessing, but the remaining S-series vehicles may have been switched over to the Trailblazer/Envoy/XLR/Raineer/Soon to be named Izusu electronics. I remember reading the BCM in the '03's is a different part number, but the '01's and '02's are the same. All speculation, take it with a grain of salt.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 7:42 pm

marks10cc wrote:DRL: the DK Blue wire is always charged, so the RH Highbeam receives the positive flow. The BCM has a 'Highbeam Dimmer Switch' that releases the purple from being grounded and creates a circuit between the RH high and LH high, using the purple wire. The DRL relay (pin number 5) grounds the green/white wire. The high beams are then in series. However, the DK blue wire (there's two, but they come from the same fuse) and the yellow/black wire (from the LH fuse) are receiving power, so if you ground the yellow the lows will light too. The relay is definately tripping and groudning the yellow. We received a signal with the green/white and purple wires in DRL operation and high beam operation, both at 11.5V (truck wasn't running).

Thanks for taking the time to do some testing

So if what you have found is right then the green w/white is only "+" during high beam operation, right? ("-" for drl)

If that is the case , just run a jumper from #87 to ground #86 (where the purple wire was) , then when the green w/white becomes "+" it will activate the lows and during DRL the wire will be "-" and the relay inactive.

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 7:51 pm

can u explain this again. I didnt catch what u said HENRY J.. run a jumper wire from 87 to 86? leave 87 grounded and jumpered? what about 85.. I thought that was the ground?

sorry

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 8:00 pm

2bunik wrote: can u explain this again. I didnt catch what u said HENRY J.. run a jumper wire from 87 to 86? leave 87 grounded and jumpered? what about 85.. I thought that was the ground? sorry

Have both 86 and 87 grounded , leave the green w/white on 85 to activate the relay.
You could run another ground wire to replace the purple wire on 86, instead of a jumper from 87 if you want.

I would double check to make sure that the green w/white is indeed "+" when the highbeams are on , "-" when DRLs operate,and neutral or "-" when the lights are off, if so it will work.

Crew02 · Post by **Crew02** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 9:09 pm

Summit Lists PN# PRF-30822 for 2003 models. However, it is cheaper for some reason. $36.95

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 9:18 pm

Crew02 wrote:Summit Lists PN# PRF-30822 for 2003 models.

From the painless relay page wrote:If your head-light wires are Tan and Green use Kit #30802; if Purple and Yellow use Kit #30821).

2bunik · Post by **2bunik** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 10:41 pm

I say why pay 39 dollars when you can just give HenryJ , marks10cc, and me headaches; a relay, and schematics.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 11:33 am

Did some quick testing this morning and made the change-
This is also working for my 2001-

Tach's cab quadbeam mod page wrote:

Splice tap the green w/white wire (high beam +) attach to relay "activate +"(#85) , Splice tap the yellow wire attach to relay feed (Normally Open #30) , attach a wire ,or wires, to a good ground and connect it to the relay supply (#87) and to relay "activate - " (#86).

Now just need one of the 2003's to try it.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Quad Beam Headlight Mod

Quad Beam Headlight Mod

This is working for my 2001-