Looking for Measurements from a fuel pump inside the module

[tomtk]

1.output nipple where flex hose attachs to pump
2.body diameter
3.strainer hookp diameter
4. Boby length
5. overall length

I think a Delphi FE0114 will work to repair a module same pressures listed on Delphi website. Pickup tube measures the same and it has a abit more of a flow rate so it could be an upgrade.

IF nobody posts this next week when I get my new module in I will pull my old one and measure it

I will check that hose for chaffing and let ya know

[JaVeRo]

Dimensions from the original pump taken out of my wife's 2001 s10 two years ago, yea I know, I'm keeping too much old junk around.

diameter of black plastic cover 1.67"
diameter of metal pump body 1.42"
length as shown in the pic 3.58"
diameter of pump outlet 0.364




The part number for the replacement pump (the whole assembly) is Delphi FG0070 as best I can tell from reading someone else's sloppy writing on the hand written receipt.

James

[tomtk]

I will convert to MM and report back

sure would be nice to rebuild the old one and have a spare

[HenryJ]

Keep in mind that the sender is usually worn out as well. I would hate to spend the time and expense swapping a pump only to have the sender fail soon after.

[tomtk]

with this being the 3rd pump I am going to cut an access panel into the cab floor and have a friend in a Detroit sheet metal shop make me a bolt in cover for it to regain cab stiffness in the area.

I will be able to fold rear seat forward and remove plate and pull module up and out quickly.

Seems like something they should have done from factory.

[roadrunner]

Keep us advised of the costs involved with the panel-access idea. I, for one, might be interested in this as an option as well. BTW, you can get a fuel pump repair kit from suppliers on e-bay as well as a fuel guage sender repair kit. If I had an easier access such as this panel idea I'd be more inclined to try these as the major pain is draining the tank and gaining access to the pump through the traditional manner.

[HenryJ]

I am going to cut an access panel into the cab floor and have a friend in a Detroit sheet metal shop make me a bolt in cover for it to regain cab stiffness in the area.

I will be able to fold rear seat forward and remove plate and pull module up and out quickly.

Nice thought, but not an option. Look closer at where the module resides in relation to the cab. A quick look between the cab and bed shows mine to be partially behind the cab. Not only would you have to cut through a structural portion of the cab support structure, it would be futile as the module would not be under the cab. It would hit the pinch weld of the back and not come out.
Just as well as I can not imagine trying to get the electrical connections, retention ring and lines loose through a hole in the cab , behind the rear seat.

Dropping the driveshaft, draining the fuel and dropping the tank is not all that bad a job. After the fourth or fifth time it gets easier

Hope you guys don't learn the hard way about changing pumps and not the whole module. I have been there and done that. Thought I was really saving money...NOT. I just got the pleasure of repeating the job, over and over.
I learned my lesson a long time ago. Now I bite the bullet and buy a good complete module. Treated right by using the top half of the tank, good fuel and regular treatments of cleaner, they last another 100k miles like the stock one.

Just another opinion, and you know what else everyone has, so take it for what that is worth.