Problem with gas pedal
Moderator: F9K9
Problem with gas pedal
Anybody ever had problems with their gas pedal sticking? I was driving down the road the other day, someone cuts me off, I let off the gas and immediatly to the brake. After that I tried to give it some gas, and the gas pedal felt like it was stuck and couldn't push it down. I didn't know what caused it. So I duplicated what I had done, and now when I let up on the gas pedal rapidly, it sticks in the up position. It will go down but more than usual force is needed. It feels like it is getting hung up on something. Anyone ever have this happen to them? Is there something to oil, or lube?
- HenryJ
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Unless something is interfering with the linkage, pedal or cable, the likely cause is carbon build-up in the throttle body.
Take the intake "turtle" off. Soak a rag with sensor safe carb cleaner. Open the throttle by hand and wipe out all the deposits you can. Then spray off what you could not reach.
Once that is done start it up and warm the engine. Now would be a good time to Seafoam the engine too. If it is time for an oil change add half the bottle to the crank case. The rest needs to go down the intake. You do this by using the vacuum line from the power brake booster. carefully suck down 2/3 of the cup that was left. Then suck down the last bit fast enough to kill the engine. If it won't die shut it off quickly. Wait fifteen to twenty minutes. Start it up after the wait and rev it hard once it starts. Keep reving until it stops smoking hard. You should see quite a puddle of black carbon come out the tail pipe.
You can drive a little while , or just warm things up and then change the oil. That will clean the engine internals.
The Seafoam treatment only needs to be done every couple years or as conditions warrant. The throttle body needs to be cleaned every other oil change for those without a restrictor. and once or twice a year for those with restrictors.
Be sure to use some injector cleaner in a tank of fuel every 6-10k miles.
Take the intake "turtle" off. Soak a rag with sensor safe carb cleaner. Open the throttle by hand and wipe out all the deposits you can. Then spray off what you could not reach.
Once that is done start it up and warm the engine. Now would be a good time to Seafoam the engine too. If it is time for an oil change add half the bottle to the crank case. The rest needs to go down the intake. You do this by using the vacuum line from the power brake booster. carefully suck down 2/3 of the cup that was left. Then suck down the last bit fast enough to kill the engine. If it won't die shut it off quickly. Wait fifteen to twenty minutes. Start it up after the wait and rev it hard once it starts. Keep reving until it stops smoking hard. You should see quite a puddle of black carbon come out the tail pipe.
You can drive a little while , or just warm things up and then change the oil. That will clean the engine internals.
The Seafoam treatment only needs to be done every couple years or as conditions warrant. The throttle body needs to be cleaned every other oil change for those without a restrictor. and once or twice a year for those with restrictors.
Be sure to use some injector cleaner in a tank of fuel every 6-10k miles.
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- F9K9
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It took a little bit of searching to find it but, I learned on another forum that there is a cleaner specifically made for intakes that is sensor safe.HenryJ wrote:carbon build-up in the throttle body.
Take the intake "turtle" off. Soak a rag with sensor safe carb cleaner.
HJ may have more in the way of information for this particular cleaner but, I felt better not using a combination carb/intake cleaner.
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- killian96ss
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CRC makes a lot of good cleaners. I use the air/intake cleaner pictured above and their MAF cleaner, brake cleaner, caliper grease etc.
Steve
Steve
Well if you remove the TPS and the IAC you don't need "sensor safe" cleaner. In fact I just droped my TB in a parts cleaner and went to town (and STILL couldn't get all the crap off). In fact the TPS is very easy to remove and I STRONGLY recomend you take the IAC out so you can clean the passages (dont forget to clean the IAC too).
In fact if I were to do this again I would pull the TB, take everything off, and then soak it overnight in a cleaning solution. That should loosen the crap up enough to get it all off in the morning.
Best to do this now (its a COMMON problem) because if carboned up soon you will get an unstead idle that can be a pain.
In fact if I were to do this again I would pull the TB, take everything off, and then soak it overnight in a cleaning solution. That should loosen the crap up enough to get it all off in the morning.
Best to do this now (its a COMMON problem) because if carboned up soon you will get an unstead idle that can be a pain.
[size=75][b]1991 GMC Sonoma Extended Cb[/b] - 4.3L Automatic, 2" BL, 31" BFG's.
[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
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[b]1992 Chevy T-10 Reg Cab[/b] - 4.3L 5spd, 3" Bl, 31" Mud Tires. Hooker long tube headers and true duals.
[b]1999 Oldsmobile Bravada[/b] - Wifes truck, all stock.[/size]