P0410

realtorjay · Post by **realtorjay** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 9:06 am

I hate to be a pain to everyone but I am going to be in meetings all day and did not have time to surf the web or the forum. I know I need to replace my air pump and I read somewhere about a relocator kit, I am copying the info below. If anyone knows the GM part number for the kit please let me know. I plan on having my brother inlaw order the parts this afternoon. Thanks so much in advance sorry to be a pain!!

Here is the information I found on another forum but no part #

GM has also released a remote air intake kit that includes a longer 5/8" hose, a control solenoid, and a one-way check valve to eliminate most possibility of water intrusion.

realtorjay · Post by **realtorjay** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 11:50 am

Here might be a helpful link for everyone in the future when you get the error code.

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/t ... 4D-183.pdf

Post by **Walt** » Tue Mar 14, 2006 1:14 pm

Mine's been dead for a few months now. Pretty useless IMO. From what I've heard it'll just die again in the future...

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 8:00 am

dont buy a new air pump until you take apart and inspect your old one...

im getting my CC ready to sell, and returning it to stock. and have re-installed the air injection system. i found i had a blown fuse, so i replaced it, and bench tested the air pump motor and it worked fine. a couple of days passed, and the SES light returned... yep, code P0410... air injection system again
and the 30A fuse was blown again....

so off came the pump asy. for a comeplete teardown inspection.
first, the pump.
the pump had only been on the truck just over a week, and it had 2-3 onces of water in it again... but the truck hasnt seen any rain since being re-installed, so the water can only be condensation from the exhaust system... which there was a strong exhaust smell to the water.

there is a foam filter inside the front cover, and it was petrified, and crumbling, and started getting sucked into impeller. the impeller blades themselves were intact, and undamaged. again, bench testing the motor showed it to be running fine, and delivering plenty of air through the outlet port.
everything was cleaned, and reassembled, minus the foam filter....
i also drilled a small hole into the bottom of the air inlet housing, to allow any water buildup to drain out.

next, i did a check of the vacuum operated air shutoff valve at the end of the pump`s air discharge port. using a hand vac. pump to check it revealed the valve to be holding vac., and opening and closing properly. blowing through it in both open and closed, showed it to be sealing well when closed, and flowed well when open. no problems here.

last, i checked the vacuum switching solenoid, and found it to be DEFECTIVE....

when applying power to the terminals, there was no telltale "click" from it, but current was passing through the coil windings, so the pintle valve must be stuck inside.

spraying penetrating oil into the vac. ports, and lightly tapping on the solenoid didnt free it up, so i disassembled the solenoid, and found the pintle valve to be severely corroded. scraping it with a blade, and some fine sandpaper got it back into decent shape.
i washed down all the parts, including the inside of the solenoid housing with penetrating oil, and after some tedious, and frustrating reassembly, the solenoid was working properly, with a distintive "click" when power was applied...

with the everything back on the truck, codes cleared, and a new fuse, the system is actually quieter than before, due to the lack a "gurgling" noise coming from the air inlet tube... apparently, the faulty solenoid was causing the air shutoff valve to remain open all the time, which it shouldnt be....

so far, all is well. i will will post an update in a few days, to let you know if the code returns....

i think most of these pump assemblies can be repaired, for little or no money.
i also think most of the water that gets into them comes from the exhaust system, not the air inlet tube....

a better filter than the crappy facory foam piece would be preferable too, such as an aftermarket valve cover breather type filter, similar to those found on many hotrods, fitted to the end of the inlet hose.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 8:30 am

crew cab sonoma wrote:A better filter than the crappy facory foam piece would be preferable too, such as an aftermarket valve cover breather type filter, similar to those found on many hotrods, fitted to the end of the inlet hose.

Air Injection Pump Filter

Another thing to look out for if you are having air pump failures are the one way check valves which are located near each exhaust manifold.

If the valve is corroded or leaks in any way it will allow exhaust gasses to pass the wrong way into the system and cause early pump failures.

You shouldn't be getting any water contamination from the exhaust system if the check valves are working properly.

Steve

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:56 am

GM Data wrote:
Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose Assemlby) #04-06-04-015 - (Mar 22, 2004)
Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose Assembly)

1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, S10

1999-2001 GMC Jimmy

1999-2003 GMC Sonoma

1999-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

with 2.2L or 4.3L Engine (VINs 4, H, 5, W -- RPOs LN2, L43, L35)
Condition

Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.
Cause

Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Correction

Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:

1. Prep vehicle.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove shield covering AIR pump.
4. Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
5. Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
6. Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
7. Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
8. Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
9. Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle.
Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft)
10. Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
11. Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
12. Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
13. Connect electrical connector to pump.
14. Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
15. Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
16. Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
17. Install shield covering AIR pump.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
20. Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
21. Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
22. Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:02 am

killian96ss wrote:
crew cab sonoma wrote:A better filter than the crappy facory foam piece would be preferable too, such as an aftermarket valve cover breather type filter, similar to those found on many hotrods, fitted to the end of the inlet hose.
Air Injection Pump Filter

exactly. thats what im talking about. because the factory foam inside the housing isnt very good. and in my case, it actually became a source of debris itself...

Another thing to look out for if you are having air pump failures are the one way check valves which are located near each exhaust manifold. If the valve is corroded or leaks in any way it will allow exhaust gasses to pass the wrong way into the system and cause early pump failures. You shouldn't be getting any water contamination from the exhaust system if the check valves are working properly.

Steve

agreed. the check valves can cause problems too. but even new ones will allow some small ammout of backflow though them. the metal seal isnt perfect. you can hear "gargling" noises from good check valves if they are open to atmosphere. mine were, because the faulty vac. solenoid was causing the air shutoff valve to remain open. it should be closed, when the pump isnt running.

my check valves seem to be in good condition, as they remain cool enough to touch, even after extended driving time.
if they were leaking, they would get quite hot.... and if they are leaking badly enough, they will melt/burn through the rubber elbows attached to the ends of them.

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 4:34 am

i also find it odd that the pump only runs for about 30-45 seconds after a cold start. i would think it would run longer than that?

i cant think of any other time it should run, other than for occasional diagnostic checks, and possibly under some decelleration conditions, maybe?

seems like a lot of money spent by GM. for such little run time,
it just doesnt seem that it could improve emissions that much...

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 7:52 am

crew cab sonoma wrote:It just doesnt seem that it could improve emissions that much...

The secondary air injection system is only there to help increase the life of the catalytic converter during start up when the engine is running a little rich. The extra air injected in the exhaust stream will help "balance" out mixture to help the cat reach operating temperature faster. It's not really there to improve emissions since it does only run for less than a minute during start up. I used to have the same exact air injection set up on my SS until GM released a TSB saying that I could disable the system since it was not needed for emission testing. GM also provided me with an emission label stating that the air system was no longer needed for emission testing. It sure did help clean up the engine compartment not to mention get rid of 18 lbs of uneccesary junk.

Steve

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:35 am

im not so sure they are to help converter life, as many cars dont use air injection.

and when GM issued the TSB on your car, did they have a reflash for the PCM? or did those cars not have a diagnostic program for the air pump in them?

gocntry · Post by **gocntry** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 3:39 am

killian96ss wrote:GM also provided me with an emission label stating that the air system was no longer needed for emission testing. It sure did help clean up the engine compartment not to mention get rid of 18 lbs of uneccesary junk. Steve

Can You Make Us All Copies Of That To Use On Our Crewcabs

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:11 am

crew cab sonoma wrote:im not so sure they are to help converter life, as many cars dont use air injection.

and when GM issued the TSB on your car, did they have a reflash for the PCM? or did those cars not have a diagnostic program for the air pump in them?

When GM released the TSB for the 94-96 B-Bodies they explained that the air injection system was only there to increase the life the 2 catalytic converters and that the system was not needed in any way to pass emission testing. As you probably already know California has the hardest emission testing of any state and the CARB approved this TSB which tells you that it is definitely not and emission related device.

If you really think about it there is no other purpose for this system since it only runs for less that a minute during cold starts. If it were and emission device like a smog pump it would run continuously or least when ever a rich condition was detected by the PCM. The 94-95 B-Bodies did not require a reflash of the PCM, but my 96 did because it was OBDII. I have compared the system on our trucks to the one I removed from my SS and they are exactly the same.

It would be nice if we could remove this system on our trucks, but I would be a little more worried about the cat since we only have one versus the 2 big ones I have on my SS. Another possible problem on our trucks might be early pre-cat failures like Brule and a few others have already experienced.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:12 am

gocntry wrote:
killian96ss wrote:GM also provided me with an emission label stating that the air system was no longer needed for emission testing. It sure did help clean up the engine compartment not to mention get rid of 18 lbs of uneccesary junk. Steve
Can You Make Us All Copies Of That To Use On Our Crewcabs

If you guys really want one I can give you the GM part number and you could order your own sticker.

Steve

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:20 am

Here is a link to the TSB I am referring to. TSB # 01-06-04-011 It has been a while since I have read it and I noticed that I may have posted some incorrect info like the years affected (95-96 only, not 94-96) and also the TSB does not mention that the air system is only there for increased cat life, although that is the exact purpose of the system. The TSB does mention that GM decided to disable the system rather than try fix the faulty air check valves which still appear to be a problem 11 years later.

The part # for the emission sticker is listed in this TSB.

Steve

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 9:39 am

yeah, but HJ`s pre-cat still failed despite having air injection, or did he remove it?

my truck ran fine with the entire system removed for more than 2 years...
and a recent re-check of exh. system backpressure reavealed it hasnt changed at all since i got the truck.
and plenty of cold starts...

running the air pump on cold start does help light off any unburned fuel in the exh. manifolds, but only during open loop mode. injecting air into the manifolds during warm, open loop operation would severely throw off O2 sensor readings....

besides, why would extra air help out a cold cat that hasnt come close to reaching reactive temps yet?

and your OBD1 cars may not have had air pump diagnotics programmed into them, but being OBD1 doesnt mean they couldnt have it.
plenty of mid-late 80`s up GM OBD1 cars had "cause and effect" diagnostic routines built into them for testing various emission control devices... especially EGR systems....

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:31 am

I'm not sure why HJ's pre cat failed, but it wasn't because he disabled the air system.

The extra air injected during a cold start will bring the cat/s to operating temperature faster because the cat will see a leaner mixture vs a rich mixture. More oxygen injected into the exhaust stream will raise the exhaust temperature which allows the cat/s to heat up faster.

Did your emissions change after 2 years of not running the air system? If your back pressure didn't change after 2 years without the system at least you know everything is still intact, but it doesn't mean that everything is still running just as efficiently as before. The emission purpose of this system is very minimal if it has any purpose at all.

During a cold start any unburned fuel in the exhaust manifolds would be gone in about 5-10 seconds even without the air being injected, so this system is joke at best.

My 96 SS is OBD2, not OBD1.

The 94 & 95 cars would not throw a code if you disabled the air system, however the 96 cars will throw a code due to the different OBD2 programming. My local dealership did have to re-flash my PCM to completely disable the air injection system.

Steve

Post by **Walt** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:45 am

Down with the air pump! Down with the air pump!!

Did I mention I think that the air pump is a complete waste of material?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 10:50 am

Walt wrote:Down with the air pump! Down with the air pump!!

Did I mention I think that the air pump is a complete waste of material?

I completely agree! GM is

for putting that POS on there in the first place.

Steve

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 3:16 am

agreed. from our perspective, they are a waste of materials.
but from GM`s, they were apparently needed to sell the vehicles.

gm would prefer not to install them as well, extra manufacturing cost, and more warranty issues...

i think 2001 was a year that more strict fed. emissions standards went into effect, and thus, suddenly pre-cats and air injection starts appearing on more of thier vehicles...

GM cant sell vehicles that dont meet fed. standards, so they do what they have to in order to make them pass... if that means installing more equipment such as air injection, ect. then thats what they have to do...

and cold start emissions are a HUGE concern for engineers...

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:03 am

update:
so far, no codes have returned...

after reading that TSB posted above, it appears that GM`s findings support my statement that the water accumulation in the pump is from exhaust condensation....

Cause
Under high engine speed and load conditions, hot exhaust gasses may leak past the air check valves. As the exhaust gasses in the air tube cool, water vapors collect into the AIR pump. As the vehicle is driven, condensation from the AIR pump may come into contact with the Mass Airflow Sensor through the AIR inlet hose. This condition may cause a hesitation on acceleration and may also set the DTCs.

my solution for the water buildup was to drill two small drain holes in the air pump housing.

one in the bottom part of the air vane scroll housing, to allow water from the exhaust side condensation to drain into the air inlet housing.
and then one in the bottom of the plastic air inlet housing itself, to allow water from either side, to drain out of the pump asy.

when drilling the hole in the scroll housing, i was very careful not to allow the drill bit to drop in once it breaks through the plasic, as the bit could hit and damage the plastic fan blades...

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:23 am

crew cab sonoma wrote:...it appears that GM`s findings support my statement that the water accumulation in the pump is from exhaust condensation...my solution for the water buildup was to drill two small drain holes in the air pump housing...

I assume you corrected the condition by replacing the bad valve that allows the exhaust to enter the system.

I would like to see pictures of the holes you drilled

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:48 am

dang... i knew i should have taken pictures...
but i was in kind of a hurry, so i didnt. but if time permits, and the truck doesnt sell in the next couple of days, i will remove it and take pics.

the problem was the vac. solenoid, which stuck in the "energized" position, allowing the shutoff valve to remain open anytime manifold vac. was present.

when the solenoid is "off" it closes off the manifold vac. line, and vents the line to the shutoff valve to atmosphere.

i disassembled the solenoid, and cleaned up the pintle, and carefully put it back together, which isnt easy, because of how the metal "cage" that holds it together is made...

the solenoid must seat properly in the bottom of the cage, or it will have a vac. leak.

i dont know if the vac. solenoid is available new, by itself or if it is only sold with the air pump asy. i didnt see a part# on it.

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 4:38 am

killian96ss wrote:Did your emissions change after 2 years of not running the air system? If your back pressure didn't change after 2 years without the system at least you know everything is still intact, but it doesn't mean that everything is still running just as efficiently as before. Steve

well, i dont know what the emissions were when i got the truck, as there wasnt an inspection program in effect here at that time.
there is now, and i took the CC for its first inspection yesterday afternoon.
it passed, but they didnt do a "sniffer" test.
here, 96-later vehicles only have to get an OBD scan, a visual check for the converter, and a gas cap test.

so all i can tell you is that the truck has never had an aft-cat O2 sensor code since ive owned it. so the converter is apparently doing its job well enough...

also, when i bought the truck, it had 52K miles on it, and looking around under the truck not long after i bought it, it was obvious the Y-pipe/converter asy. had just recently been replaced.
the air pump code was there when i bought the truck, and like i said, there was no inspection program here at the time, so i just removed the entire system, i even made blockoff plates for the exh. manifolds...

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:31 am

also, if anybody removes the vac. lines to the solenoid asy., remember which way they connect to the solenoid. it does matter...
the line from the engine goes to the "center" port on the solenoid, and the line to the shutoff valve goes to the "offset" port...

WVHogRider · Post by **WVHogRider** » Tue Dec 12, 2006 9:43 am

Well, I got an SES light again the other day, and figured it was for either the gas cap or some fuel system leak.

So I stopped at Autozone, and it pulled the P0410 twice and P0442.

So I removed and then re-tightened the gas cap. In searching for the P0410, I found this to be already reviewed here. In talking with my finance manager buddy, he said that one of the warranty companies had went bankrupt, but was unsure of which one exactly it was, and that I should have the dealership where I bought the truck look at everything before going to a new dealership,(his), for anything. So I found my truck's warranty paperwork, and called the dealership where I bought the truck. I explained to the Service Manager what had happened along with the codes that it pulled and that the tailgate cable TSB needed performed. He confirmed my warranty was still active until June or 100K.

I informed him that he would probably have to replace the air pump or he could follow the TSB and remove it.

I got the whole "Let me check it out, make sure the warranty company will cover it, and I'll get back to you once you drop it off" deal.

It's scheduled for Thursday. I guess I'll leave the TSB for this and the tailgate cables on the seat along with my warranty/regisrtation/ etc. when I drop it off.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 4:24 am

impalassforum.com

TSB wrote:Technical - Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure) #01-06-04-011
Water in AIR Pump and/or DTC P0410, P0412, P0415, P0416, P0100, P0101, P0102 or DTC 48 (AIR System Disable Procedure)

1995-1996 Buick Roadmaster

1995-1996 Cadillac Fleetwood

1995-1996 Chevrolet Caprice, Impala SS

with 4.3L or 5.7L Engine (VINs W, P -- RPOs L99, LT1)
Condition

* Some customers may comment of a hesitation during heavy/full throttle acceleration.
* A 1996 vehicle may also set any of the following DTCs:
o P0410
o P0412
o P1415
o P1416
o P0100
o P0101
o P0102
* A 1995 vehicle may set a DTC 48.
* There will also be evidence of water in the AIR pump.

Cause

Under high engine speed and load conditions, hot exhaust gasses may leak past the air check valves. As the exhaust gasses in the air tube cool, water vapors collect into the AIR pump. As the vehicle is driven, condensation from the AIR pump may come into contact with the Mass Airflow Sensor through the AIR inlet hose. This condition may cause a hesitation on acceleration and may also set the DTCs.
Correction

To correct this condition, a Secondary AIR Injection Pump disable procedure has been developed. (It has been determined that the Secondary AIR Injection system is not required to meet emission requirements for these vehicles only.)

1. Locate the relay center (1) and air cleaner box (2).

2. Remove the AIR hose and clamp (1) from the air cleaner box.
3. Insert the plug (2) into the air cleaner box AIR hose inlet (3).
4. Install the AIR hose and clamp (1) to the air cleaner box.

5. Remove the cover (1) from the relay center (3).
6. Remove AIR pump relay (2) from the relay center (3).
7. Install the relay cover (1).

8. Install new emission label to radiator support (3).
9. Update vehicle calibration. (1995 4.3 L L99 Caprice, and 1996 vehicles)

Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12569122 AIR Inlet Hose Plug 1
12569123 New Emission Label 1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Calibration Information

The Calibrations are electronic calibrations and are NOT available from GMSPO. Calibrations will be available from Techline starting February 2001, on the TIS 2000 version TIS 2.0/2001 data update or later.

ZR2.com Forum thread - SES code P0410

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:47 am

That TSB doesn't apply to the S-Series platform or the 4.3L motor we have.

Some base model B-Bodies had a 4.3L (L99) V8.

Steve

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:46 am

I can not find an air pump on my '02 ZR5. and my DTC list does not have a P0410 listed. What am I missing here ?

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Oct 13, 2007 11:57 am

Horsehammerr wrote:I can not find an air pump on my '02 ZR5. and my DTC list does not have a P0410 listed. What am I missing here ?

My 05 ZR2 doesn't have the air injection system (electric air pump) or EGR system.

Maybe 02 was when the air injection system was dropped?

Anyway, you should be glad you don't have that useless system.

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Mar 26, 2008 2:03 pm

17803252 - Pump assembly
12558992 - Check Valve x2
15025636 - Hose assembly
1997264 - Solenoid

TSB:

12560095 - Pump, Secondary Air Injection

S-10CREWCAB.NET

P0410

P0410

Think I answered my own ?

P0410

Re: P0410