Plastic Distributor

[HenryJ]

Warning!



Just thought I'd warn everyone doing a tune-up that our distributor housing is made of plastic.



I'm helping a friend tune-up his S-10, and came across the third distributor that I've seen cracked at the cap hold down screws.



When you pull the cap off be sure to clean all the blue threadlock compound out of the holes before you attempt to put the screws back in.

The threadlock compound tends to "bunch up" and when you re-install or use new screws it stresses the housing and cracks it. If this happens the forward hole usually breaks a piece out of the housing.

It is VERY hard to see, but if it feels like you stripped one of the holes, you broke it.



Cleaning the holes out is a royal PITA. I've been using a pick to clean them out, having had no luck in finding a metric self tapping screw thread chaser.



The rebuilt distributors from auto parts appear to have used JB weld , or something similar to repair them. Be prepared the rebuilt cost nearly $200 (had to have it though because his bushings were worn, in addition to the cracked housing)



If anyone knows of , or can find a thread chaser for these screws , PLEASE let me know!

Until then I may try to make something that will work, eventually.



Just a FYI

[anvil]

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you, but I really appreciate the warning.

[a2b]

Warning!

nice warning



I snuck in a new smilie -HJ

[HenryJ]

It appears that there is no thread chaser available! However the replacement parts manufacturers have added a fix for the problem, or so I'm told.

The new screws have a slot cut in the threads, so that they will clean the threadlock compound without cracking the housing.



So, if you get a new cap and rotor check the new cap screws for a self tapping slotted screw!

I'm going to be replacing mine soon with a brass contact cap, and I know there are lots of the old screws still in the boxes on the shelves. I'll be making sure I get the improved model

[Conman]

It appears that there is no thread chaser available! However the replacement parts manufacturers have added a fix for the problem, or so I'm told.

The new screws have a slot cut in the threads, so that they will clean the threadlock compound without cracking the housing.



So, if you get a new cap and rotor check the new cap screws for a self tapping slotted screw!

I'm going to be replacing mine soon with a brass contact cap, and I know there are lots of the old screws still in the boxes on the shelves. I'll be making sure I get the improved model

So if you do crack it, can you just use this new cap? Or this new caps prevents the cracking?



Thanks,

Con

[HenryJ]

So if you do crack it, can you just use this new cap? Or this new caps prevents the cracking?



Thanks,

Con

It is just the screws that have been replaced / changed, the cap is the same. If you do crack it , you will have to repair it with some epoxy , JB-weld or replace it.

[Rusty]

It's getting really scary to see what they are making out of plastic these days! I wonder if the 4.3's always used this design or did they once have metal distributors and if so, can you use/adapt an old design one?

[HenryJ]

I've heard rumors that there might be a replacement housing , or a plate that is metal?

I'd sure like to find one with a metal housing for the late model 4.3L (2001) , any ideas?



I can't remember if the '91 S-10's 4.3 had a metal housing, or if the cam position sensor would mount up the same.



Seems like there would be an aftermarket company ready to jump on a problem like this and offer a billet replacement.



MSD shows a "Pro-billet" Distributor for the chevy V-6 Even-fire (#8597) , but I believe it is a magnetic trigger , instead of a cam sensor.



I've been watching this thread on the S-series Forum - What is a good replacement distributor?

[Rusty]

I'm really surprised these things even have a distributor. Even my old '89 Grand Am "beater car" has DIS. Seems most cars have gone to distributorless ignition.

[HenryJ]

Thought I'd update this thread.

To date no manufacturer has upgraded the screws to a thread cleaning design, and/or eliminated the use of locktite

They were all obviously blowing smoke and do not intend to remedy the situation!

I have replaced three more distributors with cracked housings now. People just are not getting the information soon enough.

The rumored metal plate does not exist, or at least I have not found it, and no metal aftermarket replacements.

I did run into a 4.3L using and older model distributor clamp. Make sure that yours has the clamp that fits tightly on the squared part of the housing and allows for no rotation.

[quickbiker]

Now there's a good reason not to touch it till 100k miles.