Replacing hard plastic fuel line from the pump

[JaVeRo]

The hard plastic fuel line from the pump/tank to the steel line at the frame rail has rubbed to the point that it has a pinhole in it. The last time I put a pump in this truck, I saw where it was rubbing so I split a rubber hose and put over it. That hose worked it's way down and the line kept rubbing.

The part number is 15761478 but has been discontinued according to two different dealers. It has a quick connect on both ends.

I am considering
1) getting some rubber fuel line that is rated for 60+ psi and pushing it over the rib that holds the quick connect and then double clamping it.
2) taking the old line to a place that makes custom hoses and let them salvage my ends and crimp them on a rubber hose. If that's even possible.
3) go to a junk yard and see what I can find there.

Any ideas? suggestions?

Thanks.
James

[HenryJ]

I like the junk yard option. Beyond that maybe something could be made to replace it. The hose and clamps will probably not work I see that pulling apart.
How about JB weld? Could you rough up the bad spot and apply a liberal coat of JB weld to repair it? Maybe try WaterWeld. This is the stuff you knead to mix the two parts and then wrap it around the leak. Might work? That is some tough stuff and impervious to gasoline.

[JaVeRo]

I will be in Lufkin tomorrow, plan on going by the salvage yards to see what I can find. Haven't thought about JB weld or epoxy, that might work.

Thanks,
James

[AVTekk]

Unfortunately you've found another weak point on these trucks. Ive had to fix the lines before and went through the same problem, there was none available anywhere and no one can salvage the stock fittings. Also, it is a part specific to crew cabs no other line will fit (I've tried). You really only have 2 options in my book.

Just about any parts store should have a plastic fuel line repair kit in stock. It consists of a barb fitting and some line with the right fitting on one end. You cut your damaged line and splice this in with the help of a heatgun. The instructions say to use hot water, it doesnt get anywhere near hot enough to expand the plastic tho so I use a heat gun. Of course if you go too far the plastic bubbles and youve ruined it. Ive done the repair many times and have had no problems to date.

The fuel injection fittings are available aftermarket now mainly because of how many people are doing late model engine swaps in hot rods. You can buy both ends that you need which convert the pushlock to AN fitting. You can then make a hose with AN fittings or have a hydraulic shop make a hose for you. This fix would outlast the truck but by far the most expensive.

I wouldn't trust JB weld for a permanent fix, it may be impervious to gasoline but I dont think it would hold up on a small plastic line at 60spi. Hose clamps could work but you'd 2 per end and youll want to use the kind made specifically for fuel lines as they dont have the little ribs on them that cut through the line. Youll have to check these periodically tho to make sure they dont back off.

BTW once youve fixed it DON'T FORGET to bend the line at the frame so the line doesn't rub again!

[AVTekk]

Here is the plastic repair kit, they make it in straight and 90:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... ine+repair

The aftermarket fittings look like this altho I usually get 3/8" to -6AN for the feed and 5/16" to -6AN for the return.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644003/overview/

[HenryJ]

Great post! ^^

I was not aware of those russel fittings. Those are a very good option. I will keep those in mind for my future needs. Thank you

[AVTekk]

Yep I use them often as I do a lot of custom engine swaps at the shop. I used to use pn #640850 but its now discontinued. They suggest using #644120 now which looks different but should work the same. I'm currently looking for another LS motor to drop in a customers C10 so I'll try them out then to see for sure.

[JaVeRo]

I got the line fixed. I used the Dorman parts similar to what AVTekk posted above. I got the Napa part number 730-4922 which is the same as the Dorman part no. 800-059. It's 18" of 3/8" nylon tube with the 3/8 90 degree end. I was gonna splice it to the piece that came off the truck but I figured out that 18" is the perfect length so I ordered the straight end to go on it. Dorman part no. 800-082.

I heated the nylon tubing with a hot air gun and bent it to match my old line, running cold water over it to get it to stay bent. I ended up doing it again with hot water then cold water and that worked just as good. I learned that the new tubing is more flexible than the old and will probably hold it's shape once it has been on the truck a while.

I meant to slide a rubber hose over it before putting the end on it but got so engrossed with heating and cooling that I forgot. I heated the end of the tubing and slid it over the straight coupler. It would go on a little ways and I would stick it under the hot water again. It wasn't near as hard as I thought it would be. Dorman makes a special tool just for that but I don't think it's necessary for my personal use. I split the rubber hose I had cut and slipped it over the nylon tube and secured it with zip ties. Checked for leaks and bolted the fuel tank back in place. I didn't remove the tank, just dropped it down a couple of inches.

Thanks for the advice on the Dorman parts. I like their style of quick release better than the factory.

James

[AVTekk]

[ApproachMedium]

AVTekk did my truck, I had the exact same problem last year. I seem to be the trailblazer of finding crew cab flaws from age being that I have one of the highest mileage ones around. Since the line has been repaired I have not had any problems. We spent quite a while trying to find a replacement line from many different outlets to no avail.

[_STUCKY]

Bump, because it took me a few minutes to find this.

[ApproachMedium]

Did yours finally go? I think this is a design flaw with these trucks but unfortunately its not to be found until they age and it is too late. My truck is gone now, but a friend has it. Well over 310k.... No problems yet with the fix!

[Horsehammerr]

I'm setting at 199,000 on my '02 , should I be concerned about this Line ? Yes , it's a Street Queen.

[_STUCKY]

I didn’t break it. I was just bringing all this stuff back to the top because my pump died, and I half expected all the known issues with changing it out.

Horsehammer, what’s your fuel pump situation? If your tank doesnt need to come out, it will be fine.

I broke the Ground for the filler neck, the icv valve, and the clip in the frame for the rear strap.

[ApproachMedium]

I'm setting at 199,000 on my '02 , should I be concerned about this Line ? Yes , it's a Street Queen.

I would be. mine went bad in the 200k range i think. Somewhere back up in this thread.