hypertech settings
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hypertech settings
just wanted to know what the best settings would be to use for racing
- HenryJ
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That will depend on the mods you have , your local conditions, chosen fuel, etc.
Your best bet is to find a lonely section of highway, or good road, for some WOT passes.
#1- Choose the fuel you will be running , obviously there are performance gains with the use of 93 octane tuning.
#2- for a stock engine, without internal modifications, the 5600 rpm rev limit is probably just fine. (IMO it should stay together through 6000 rpm ,safely). So take your pick there, hopefully you'll never use it.
#3- Raise the top speed limiter, not that you'll use it either, but you may exceed the stock setting for a brief time, hopefully
#4- Adjust for your tire size (speedo-calibrate is important for acurate VSS readings that control the transmission shifting)
#5- If you have not added an internal shift kit, add the shiftfirmness. You'll love that one
#6- This is the one that takes some work. I think the book has the directions, but basically here is what you do.
Take a friend to watch the tach with you. make a pass WOT (Wide Open Throttle) go through the gears, and don't worry about shifting to fourth (OD) you'll never do that in a race.
Log the shift points and note where it felt like it "quit pulling".
Work on first gear, then second , etc.
This will get you "in the ballpark" then adjust in small steps at the track to fine tune for the quickest times.
Keep in mind that bigger rpm's does not mean faster times. You need to shift when the engine stops pulling hard.
For mine I felt that the stock shift points were too high, the engine was done pulling and still trying to get rpm's before it would shift.
Here are the settings that I am currently using- 87 oct. Power tuning, 5600 rpm, 128 mph, 30.5 tires, Shiftfirmness, 1-2 shift= -1, 2-3 shift= -2, 3-4 shift= -1
Here are my settings
Your best bet is to find a lonely section of highway, or good road, for some WOT passes.
#1- Choose the fuel you will be running , obviously there are performance gains with the use of 93 octane tuning.
#2- for a stock engine, without internal modifications, the 5600 rpm rev limit is probably just fine. (IMO it should stay together through 6000 rpm ,safely). So take your pick there, hopefully you'll never use it.
#3- Raise the top speed limiter, not that you'll use it either, but you may exceed the stock setting for a brief time, hopefully
#4- Adjust for your tire size (speedo-calibrate is important for acurate VSS readings that control the transmission shifting)
#5- If you have not added an internal shift kit, add the shiftfirmness. You'll love that one
#6- This is the one that takes some work. I think the book has the directions, but basically here is what you do.
Take a friend to watch the tach with you. make a pass WOT (Wide Open Throttle) go through the gears, and don't worry about shifting to fourth (OD) you'll never do that in a race.
Log the shift points and note where it felt like it "quit pulling".
Work on first gear, then second , etc.
This will get you "in the ballpark" then adjust in small steps at the track to fine tune for the quickest times.
Keep in mind that bigger rpm's does not mean faster times. You need to shift when the engine stops pulling hard.
For mine I felt that the stock shift points were too high, the engine was done pulling and still trying to get rpm's before it would shift.
Here are the settings that I am currently using- 87 oct. Power tuning, 5600 rpm, 128 mph, 30.5 tires, Shiftfirmness, 1-2 shift= -1, 2-3 shift= -2, 3-4 shift= -1
Here are my settings
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
I got mine a couple of months ago.
1.) The Power settings are A. STOCK B. Hypertech 87 Octane and C.93 Octane Mine set to "B"
2.) Tire settings are 1/4" increments. Go to the one closest to your tire either over or under. "29.00"
3.) Top speed. Corresponds to Tire Rating. DO NOT EXCEED TIRE RATING Spped setting as your tire may grenade if that speed or more is held for a short while. The letter designation on the tire will be in the settings on the computer with a corresponding speed. You can find the tire rating ("H", "S", "T", or other letters) on the sidewall. Tirerack dotcom has a good page on tire speed ratings. "h" OR 128MPH
4.) AXLE Ratio's: Look at your sticker in the glove box and pull the code for what ever ratio you have. The P-III will have the axle code and the ratio's to pick from. Just match and pick. 3.42
5.) Engine TOP RPM. MINE Shows steps of 100rpm from -500 to 0 to +500 stock.
FOR EXAMPLE, if the computer has 5500 as top end limit for engine rpm then you have a THEORETICAL range of 5000 to 6000. At 5500 on a stock 4.3L engine you are actually on the DOWNSWING of the torque and horsepower curve, dropping fast, plus your valvetrain won't live too long @ 6000 stock. Best to do 1/4 mile runs and adjust down until you get the best times. my last setting was stock cut out @ 5600.
6.) Shift RPM. See #4. ALSO, the RPM here CANNOT exceed more than 100 rpm less than top engine speed. IE Top engine RPM 5500, then the most you can have is 5400 on the shift. My last settings 1-2,2-3, & 3-4 were all stock to shift @ 5200 or so. So I have at least a 300-400rpm cushion between top engine cutout and top shift rpm.
For example
STOCK TOP RPM is 5400.
You ADD the FOLLOWING: TOP RPM = +200
Top Shift = +100 This is OK per the programmer but maybe not the engine!
TOP RPM = -100
Top Shift = -200 This is OK.
TOP RPM = -300
Top Shift = -200 NO GOOD.
You Add TOP RPM +200
Top Shift +200....NO GOOD. It won't take in the Programmer.
TOP RPM MUST BE 100 RPM OR MORE than Shift RPM.
Shift Firmness for Auto's is defined in 25% increments. It's NOT 25,50,75,100% more than whats in there now. It's a non variable increment of the current variable parameters for Fluid pressure that's set in the computer.( NOTE: This is what B&M and JET Change in their Electronic Shift kits.) If you put 100% in there you'll get BANGING and HARSHNESS in ALL SHIFTS ALL THE TIME. The Best overall compromise I found is 75%. It firms it up but you don't get the banging AND a possible code 1870. I set mine for 100 to check it out and it almost immediately set 1870. I backed it off and reset the pcm and everything was hunky-dory until I got the W4M PCM from Jesse. 25 & 50 didn't change mine hardly. But then mine only has 42000 miles. A trans with higher mileage might see a noticible change @ 25 & 50%.
The above is my .02 based on use of Hypertech P-III for 2002 model year.
I like the ability to be able to go in and make changes as I want to.
Larry
1.) The Power settings are A. STOCK B. Hypertech 87 Octane and C.93 Octane Mine set to "B"
2.) Tire settings are 1/4" increments. Go to the one closest to your tire either over or under. "29.00"
3.) Top speed. Corresponds to Tire Rating. DO NOT EXCEED TIRE RATING Spped setting as your tire may grenade if that speed or more is held for a short while. The letter designation on the tire will be in the settings on the computer with a corresponding speed. You can find the tire rating ("H", "S", "T", or other letters) on the sidewall. Tirerack dotcom has a good page on tire speed ratings. "h" OR 128MPH
4.) AXLE Ratio's: Look at your sticker in the glove box and pull the code for what ever ratio you have. The P-III will have the axle code and the ratio's to pick from. Just match and pick. 3.42
5.) Engine TOP RPM. MINE Shows steps of 100rpm from -500 to 0 to +500 stock.
FOR EXAMPLE, if the computer has 5500 as top end limit for engine rpm then you have a THEORETICAL range of 5000 to 6000. At 5500 on a stock 4.3L engine you are actually on the DOWNSWING of the torque and horsepower curve, dropping fast, plus your valvetrain won't live too long @ 6000 stock. Best to do 1/4 mile runs and adjust down until you get the best times. my last setting was stock cut out @ 5600.
6.) Shift RPM. See #4. ALSO, the RPM here CANNOT exceed more than 100 rpm less than top engine speed. IE Top engine RPM 5500, then the most you can have is 5400 on the shift. My last settings 1-2,2-3, & 3-4 were all stock to shift @ 5200 or so. So I have at least a 300-400rpm cushion between top engine cutout and top shift rpm.
For example
STOCK TOP RPM is 5400.
You ADD the FOLLOWING: TOP RPM = +200
Top Shift = +100 This is OK per the programmer but maybe not the engine!
TOP RPM = -100
Top Shift = -200 This is OK.
TOP RPM = -300
Top Shift = -200 NO GOOD.
You Add TOP RPM +200
Top Shift +200....NO GOOD. It won't take in the Programmer.
TOP RPM MUST BE 100 RPM OR MORE than Shift RPM.
Shift Firmness for Auto's is defined in 25% increments. It's NOT 25,50,75,100% more than whats in there now. It's a non variable increment of the current variable parameters for Fluid pressure that's set in the computer.( NOTE: This is what B&M and JET Change in their Electronic Shift kits.) If you put 100% in there you'll get BANGING and HARSHNESS in ALL SHIFTS ALL THE TIME. The Best overall compromise I found is 75%. It firms it up but you don't get the banging AND a possible code 1870. I set mine for 100 to check it out and it almost immediately set 1870. I backed it off and reset the pcm and everything was hunky-dory until I got the W4M PCM from Jesse. 25 & 50 didn't change mine hardly. But then mine only has 42000 miles. A trans with higher mileage might see a noticible change @ 25 & 50%.
The above is my .02 based on use of Hypertech P-III for 2002 model year.
I like the ability to be able to go in and make changes as I want to.
Larry
2002 S-10 ZR-5 Quad-CAB
1995 GMC Jimmy 4Dr. SLT
1995 GMC Jimmy 4Dr. SLT
- HenryJ
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Mine has been set as follows since 6-10-2006:
87 Octane
5600
128
32.75
Shift Firmness
1-2= -2
2-3= -8
3-4= -12
For a 2001 with 3.73:1 gears and 30" tires the 1-2 shift, 1 mph = 128 rpm, 2-3 shift 68 rpm, 3-4 shift 42 rpm.
Everyone needs to set theirs up individually. There is no way to tell an individual what settings they should use. Tire size, gear ratio, mods, all play a part in the settings to use. Best bet is to follow the instructions for setting your programming. Find an abandoned section of highway and make several WOT passes. Watch for the redline and feel where it stops pulling hard. Make adjustments until yours shifts where you want it to.
Once this is done, you can fine tune it if you find it hold a gear too long, or short shifts.
87 Octane
5600
128
32.75
Shift Firmness
1-2= -2
2-3= -8
3-4= -12
For a 2001 with 3.73:1 gears and 30" tires the 1-2 shift, 1 mph = 128 rpm, 2-3 shift 68 rpm, 3-4 shift 42 rpm.
Everyone needs to set theirs up individually. There is no way to tell an individual what settings they should use. Tire size, gear ratio, mods, all play a part in the settings to use. Best bet is to follow the instructions for setting your programming. Find an abandoned section of highway and make several WOT passes. Watch for the redline and feel where it stops pulling hard. Make adjustments until yours shifts where you want it to.
Once this is done, you can fine tune it if you find it hold a gear too long, or short shifts.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Horsehammerr
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- Location: Kimberling City, MO.
Re: hypertech settings
OK, I just received my HPP3 from green02crew and I'm in the process of deciding what to do. I'm most interested in economy like most of the world is today. This is my Daily Driver for a simple 26 mile trip everyday at a screaming 45 mph. At factory settings I average 16-17 mpg. What can I do with the settings on this truck to improve this at all ? I know it shifts very slowly in the 2100-2200 rpm range at maybe 1/4 throttle. WOT is a very rare thing so I will not run above 87 oct. gas, my tires actually measure 28", 373 gears, auto trans. Eveything set factory at this point. I have removed the throttle blade deflector, moved my IAT in front of the MAF in the intake tube, run a K&N filter with the box opened up for clean air flow, no pre-cat or Cat. Thats all the engine modification done. Unless you consider Taylor wires a mod. ? What do you suggest ?
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
- HenryJ
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Re: hypertech settings
There are some pretty good examples listed above. Shift firmness is the best thing, I thought. Mine was really mushy. Once you decide on the basics and get your speedometer correct, you can play with the shift points a little.
I found that bumping the 3-4 shift helped keep it from short shifting on a grade.
You will have to just play with it and see what works best for you.
I found that bumping the 3-4 shift helped keep it from short shifting on a grade.
You will have to just play with it and see what works best for you.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- killian96ss
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- Location: Sacramento, California
Re: hypertech settings
Run the 87 octane tune, make sure your tire size is dead on, and firm up the shifts to your liking. That's about all you can do with the HPPIII to try and improve gas mileage. In reality you probably won't gain more than 1-2 mpg.
Steve
Steve
- Horsehammerr
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Re: hypertech settings
I think I understand your settings to be 1-2 gear shifts 256 rpm sooner than stock, 2-3 shifts 544 rpm faster, 3-4 shifts 504 rpm faster. Is this correct ? I set my truck the same as a first try and notice a slight longer hold on a grade but still seems to drop a gear sooner than really needed. Is this do to my 28" tires as yours were 32.75 ? I'm completely new to electronic adjustments. Any help is much appreciated.
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
- HenryJ
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Re: hypertech settings
Gonna have to let you fend for yourself using the information that I have posted here. That was all over five years ago and I have not had or looked at one since.
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK
- Horsehammerr
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- Posts: 779
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 2:03 pm
- Location: Kimberling City, MO.
Re: hypertech settings
I know it's been awhile, at 60 my mind seems to fade a little sometimes. Thought it might be helpful to understand the plus and minus settings for the shift adjustments. These trucks will not go away real soon and there are new people coming along who might like to have the information also. With 3.73:1 gears being set at 1-2shift 128rpm, 3-4shift 68rpm and 3-4shift 42rpm, all 1mph increments, what's the best method for figuring out what is best ?HenryJ wrote:Gonna have to let you fend for yourself using the information that I have posted here. That was all over five years ago and I have not had or looked at one since.
[size=75]'02ZR5 YellowCruzCab-Airbox chopped,Quadlights,Intake defuser chopped,Precat chopped,HD Bilsteins, 9x16 '84 Corvette wheels, NEXEN 245/50 tires, front & rear Sway bars, All Poly bushings in full suspension, front lowered 3 1/2", ZR2 rearend with 5" suspension lowering , FUN FUN FUN
- HenryJ
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Re: hypertech settings
I followed the instructions. WOT runs and watched the RPM. Adjust each shift up or down as needed to match the desired shift point. After some time you will decide if fine tuning is needed.
It may help to have a passenger watch the RPM so you can focus on driving?
It may help to have a passenger watch the RPM so you can focus on driving?
"Speed doesn't kill, suddenly becoming stationary does." - Richard Hammond
"Speed is just a matter of Money - How fast do YOU want to go?"-Mechanic from Mad Max-
If at first you don't succeed - Don't take up Skydiving! - ThunderII KE7CSK