Ok - while pulling my upper a arms to install new bushings, noticed my passenger CV was slinging grease everywhere. I installed a new Lifetime warrany unit from local auto parts place and moved on to the driver side.
Sure enough, my inside boot is completely off the inner cup that plugs into the differential, and all appears dry inside. Strangely - this is the 100% OEM side, and there's no sign of grease being slung out. either way - I'm going to install a new complete unit cause $62 is way cheaper than trying to rebuild one.
Here's where I ran into problems:
1) the inner CV joint is completely broken - the shaft unplugs from the cup that goes into the diff, leaving just the cup. I've got nothing to "snatch" on to get the retaining clip to disengage. I've got a prybar that I can get behind the cup, but it doesn't seem to be doing the ticket. me and a buddy tried brying from 2 sides, still no dice.
2) the outboard end is stuck in the hub - rust apparently. I also had trouble getting the rotor off this side - BFH finally solved the rotor problem. I tried PB Blaster soaking and BFH, with the help of a friend - it didn't budge.
My biggest concern is the inner cup that I can't get out of the diff. I need some suggestions, cause I've got to have this truck back drivable by end of day tomorrow. There's gotta be a trick for this, rite?
Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
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- adrenalnjunky
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Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
I had that problem getting the CV out of the diff. I used a brass drift and a 4lb hammer. At the correct angle I was able to pop it free from it's snap ring.
As for the one stuck in the hub, you are on the right path. Lube, lube and more lube. Do not use heat unless you have a new bearing ass. to go in.
Good Luck!
As for the one stuck in the hub, you are on the right path. Lube, lube and more lube. Do not use heat unless you have a new bearing ass. to go in.
Good Luck!
Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
I found this on another site;
"To remove the shaft from the differential carrier, place a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing, then strike it outwards using a hammer. You will have to hit it hard enough to overcome the snapring pressure retaining it."
"To remove the shaft from the differential carrier, place a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing, then strike it outwards using a hammer. You will have to hit it hard enough to overcome the snapring pressure retaining it."
- adrenalnjunky
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Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
ok - sounds like I need to be working from under the truck then. I was trying to pry back towards me - but I don't think a prybar is the abrupt type of force needed for this. I'll have another go at it in the morning, and probably the afternoon. First thing though, I've gotta find a shop that can swap the bushings out in the A-arms for me.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
I wish that I had suggestions for you. My mileage is low on the CC right now but, I hope you document what, you had to do to correct this issue.
[size=75][b]"For those who have fought for it, [i][color=red]FR[/color][color=white]EE[/color][color=blue]DOM[/color][/i] has a taste that the protected will never know."
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[url=http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73349]GUIDE TO SEARCHING. [i] (Some of the forum software is different but, it has helped me a lot.)[/i][/url][/b]
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- adrenalnjunky
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Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
I finally got it out with a combination of prybar, BFH, and foul language.
Now I have a diff fluid leak at the CV input seal on that side. That's not the worst though. See my new thread I'm about to create about ongoing 4wd issues.
Now I have a diff fluid leak at the CV input seal on that side. That's not the worst though. See my new thread I'm about to create about ongoing 4wd issues.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
Re: Stuck CV joint - bit of an emergency!
If it helps, the diff seal on the driver side is an easy replacement.