_STUCKY's junk

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:06 pm

_STUCKY wrote:...I bought these:

Bilsteins...

I took the shock boots off of all 4 shocks, because 1 I think they are cheezy and 2 I believe they trap crud in there.

I hope you did not cut them up and I can talk you into reconsidering. The rear shocks are installed inverted. Rocks kicked up can damage the piston rod without the boot to protect it. Running without the boots will void your lifetime warranty if the shaft gets dinged up and they start leaking.
Those boots do a very good job keeping debris off the piston rod. Any trapped dirt escapes the vent holes. An inverted shock like this is vastly different than the average shock with a convoluted boot.
The front shocks are mounted upright, but not subject to the same environment. They don't get bombarded with rocks and mud like the rear. If you want to run those bootless, you can. I prefer to run boots there.
PLEASE keep the boots on the rear in this application.

Looking forward to the transformation! BSW and fullsize stops!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:07 pm

Looks like lots of fun! I want to do the Bilsteins for my truck, eventually. Now with all the suspension work my truck has it doesn't feel like it needs the shocks right away as I have said. I do agree with you on the silly boot things. On my VW Bilstein wanted you to reuse the factory dust covers. I threw them out. I also didnt put any on the current front Gabriels in my truck. If they wanted me to have dust covers, they would have been designed in at the factory not these silly after thought accordions.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:36 pm

This morning began with a call to my local mechanic, who was planning on working on getting a transmission out and replaced. He told me yesterday that it was fine if I came in to mess with the truck and get the tires on. He however wanted a ride in, so I go to pick him up and his buddy pulls up in a super slick old 4 door Caprice with 52000 miles on it. So we drooled all over it for a while.

Once we finally got to his shop, I cleaned up while he was shuffling cars around. When I rolled the first tire out of the bed of the truck, some of the stick on weights fell off. I was not impressed. The tire shop had put a bunch of them onto the weld... They did not sit flat. So I knew I needed another balance.

First test fit showed that this was not all a waste. It was close, but very fixable. But, more of the stick on wheel weights fell off and became lodged between the wheel and the caliper on the passenger side front. Then the driver side front didn't have enough clearance between the wheel and the caliper. Out came the grinder to smooth up the caliper. I then backed up with the tires turned and quickly realized I needed to whip out the sawzall.

It could still use a little bit more trimming, but it is very drivable. I was in and out of the shop probably 10 times. I had been taking it out and driving around the building trying to get it to rub. When I was happy with the fit, I went to the only place in town that was open to balance the tires... Wal-Mart....

This actually wasn't as bad as I had expected, much better than both of my previous experiences with the Wal-Mart tire center. I told the guy working on it what the whole shebang was, he was fine with my requests. I told him what the truck had done to it, that the wheels were brand spanking new, that they were questionable on how they will balance out, and how I wanted (or rather didn't want) the weights to be on there.

Then it was back to the mechanic's shop to finish it up. I taped it off and took some spray paint, just a tiny bit, to cover the cuts I had made. I did some hammering on the inner fender well for good measure and took those 2 bolts out. I also put the full size spare under the bed.

This is how it ended up...

And just for comparison, here is the first picture I took of the truck.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:08 am

The wheels are 15x8 with 5 inches of backspacing. The tires do not rub the frame. It does need slightly more trimming, but so far it is good.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:17 am

Looks great!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:27 am

ApproachMedium wrote:Looks great!

Thank you.

This has been like 3 months in the making, I just didn't want to say anything until I was done, or at least close to done. Wednesday I will be getting the idler and pitman arms put on, then Thursday its getting another alignment. After that, I think it's time to look into getting a little more umph out of the 4.3. I'll let you guys know how the tires affect my MPGs. I lost about 2 MPGs by just doing the suspension work. Hopefully the taller tire with help it out some.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 11:31 am

Wow I would hate to loose 2MPG. I look forward to see what your doing to improve the 4.3L. I plan to change my engine out as the next big project and I dont want a V8 swap.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 12:44 pm

Looking good! Those wheels are begging for the 1st Gen center cap treatment.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 1:43 pm

I have a set of the first gen center caps if you care to have them. They came off my friends 87 pickup. They are black with chrome 4x4 stickers in the middle right now. Nothing paint and decals cant change. I was saving them just in case I came up with some kind of interesting wheel project that will never happen.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 4:07 pm

Ooooh I like that!

I'll see if I can find some locally. If I can't any, I'll definatly let you know. I wasn't sure what to do about center caps, but I don't want chrome ones. I like the black plastic.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 4:31 pm

Ta-Da

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 4:36 pm

Reeds caps attach using the stock lug nut covers. How do those attach?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 4:57 pm

They just snap on to the lug nuts. Basically just a center cap.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 8:59 pm

Well I put over 100 miles on it today and only noticed it rub 2 times. Same spot both times. Just a little more (very minor) trimming should fix that! It's just plastic. I did not get a chance to check the MPGs, and it will be a little distorted since my tire size went up. By the way, the tires are used and only measure 29.5. It drove just fine all day.

ApproachMedium wrote:Ta-Da

As far as the center caps go, I know of at least 2 s10s with stock steel wheels on them. I'll try getting ahold of them tomorrow and see if I can round some up. If I don't have any luck tomorrow, I'll let you know. So they just screw onto the stock lug nuts? Sounds simple enough

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sun Dec 09, 2012 9:06 pm

No screws. Press right on!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:49 am

Would you post up a picture of the back side of one of those, please? I'm wanting to see how it goes on.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:37 am

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:04 pm

ApproachMedium wrote:

Ah thank you. Seeing it makes it so much clearer. I like the style that reed has a little better. I had no luck finding any today, but I only asked a couple people.

F9K9 wrote:

Reed, are yours smooth? As in, is the Chevy bowtie recessed?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 7:30 am

Well after sleeping on it, what do you want for the center caps? I would happily trade for the stereo, but I see little use for it since you have an aftermarket one. I'll pm you my number.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:54 am

Anyone know if the spectre air intake setup is an American made product?

I'm thinking this, a free flowing exhaust, and a PCM tune, along with new O2 sensors and filters all around. This should all help it work a little easier and hopefully bump up the MPGs.. Hopefully...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:29 pm

Some random pictures, in no particular order...

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:08 pm

Interesting thought, your crew didnt come with fog lights or did you change them?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:22 pm

I do not have fog lights. As far as I know, it was that way stock. There is no switch by the headlight knob.

Edit: oh and HenryJ, sorry, but no shock boots. I had to cut the smallest part of them to get them off. The shocks should be ok though, I don't really off road the thing. No high speed sand runs or deep mud. The worst it should see (should

) is gonna be snow in the winter and light mud at slow speeds.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:51 pm

It is the gravel , sand and rocks I was worried about. The bottom couple inches really gets hammered.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 6:10 pm

HenryJ wrote:The bottom couple inches really gets hammered.

I could see that. But they are long gone. If something happens to them, I'll let you guys know.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:15 pm

You can keep eyes peeled for some aftermarket convoluted boots too

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:42 am

I have some time on my hands today. I also have a wiring kit for an amp that I don't need. I'm thinking about doing the big three wiring mod..... However I cannot find the thread, with pictures, because we all like pictures. I know I have seen it around here. I've searched and found some info on it, but I'm looking for the thread that has pictures.

Any one know what the key words for that would be? Or better yet a link directly to it?

And since I know everyone likes pictures....

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:12 pm

Ah ha!

I am not sure that this is The One i was looking for, but it does have pictures

http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic ... g+3#p96102

Edit: I tried google...

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f202/big- ... to-321330/

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:05 pm

I had to run into town to get the connectors, which is my only cost so far. I still need to drill out the ends to the appropriate size. I should have these on in the next day or so. I went ahead and swapped in a dual post battery that I had in the Comanche.

I'm going to run the clear cable from the battery to the alternator. The black wires will go from the battery to body, block, and frame. I'll put up a couple pictures when I get done.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:46 am

So I finally got into the alignment shop today. The guy told me that one of the bolts was seized up in the bushing and he couldn't adjust it correctly. So I need control arm bushings.

Edit:
Upper control arm bushings Moog part # K6418
Lower control arm bushings Energy Suspension part # 3.3167G

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 2:59 pm

Well the wires are on.

+ battery to alternator
- battery to body, frame, and engine block

It's not worth a picture, really. I tucked all the wires up to were you can't really see them. I took the original stud deals out of the original battery cables and used 3/8 bolts with 2 nuts to sandwich everything together. I've done this with most of my GM vehicles, and personally prefer this over the originals. Only thing I need to do differently is find some shorter bolts that are thread the whole length. I just used what we had in the bolt bin for now.

The picture is showing the bolts. You cannot see one of the nuts on each cable. The nuts you do see are thin.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 5:43 pm

I just discovered these. I had no idea such a thing existed. Tomorrow...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Dec 15, 2012 5:46 pm

_STUCKY wrote:

I just discovered these. I had no idea such a thing existed. Tomorrow...

Those work GREAT!
Don't forget that high drain connections should be made to the top posts.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sun Jan 06, 2013 7:10 pm

Progress!

We did this a couple weeks ago and haven't had time to mess with it much more since then. The truss is perfectly in line with the C's. We ended up having only about 4-6 inches of wasted material, if that. It is a perfect fit. The u bolt eliminators are not on in this picture, but they are tacked on at the exact same place and angle as stock YJ spring perches. It will have a gusset going from the truss to the upper C's that will also be the shock mounts.

The rear is going to be spring under, or at least that is the current plan. My buddy broke his new to him front springs today, which are my stock rear YJ springs. We are planning to redo the front if his with the springs we were planning on using in the rear of my YJ. They are stock front wagoneer springs that I have cleaned, painted, and put new poly bushings and plastic pad deals between each leaf and center pins in. He has a home made revolver shackle on now, and I think I talked him into building some H shackles to replace them.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:09 pm

Craigslist score!

I picked this up 2 days ago for $160, new. The angle iron I used for the plate was laying around from a bumper project I had going on for the 87 K5 that never came to light. I think I had paid like $45 for that chunk of metal. Yesterday, me and my ol' man made the winch plate, lots of measuring, cutting, cursing, and a little bit of drilling, and we have this. Today, we wired it up and tested it.

It's a Badlands 6000 pound winch. I know, I know, it's not a very big winch. The general rule of thumb is vehicle weight X 1.5 = minimum weight rating for the winch, right? Well, STUCKY weighs in at 3200 pounds with a full tank and some mud on it, so I think I'll be ok for self recovery.

So, how does the winch plate look? Can you guys tell it is not symmetrical? I can, but I'm not sure I should go messing with trying to grind it more. I doubt anyone will notice.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:15 pm

Only 3200lbs? Thats about what my GTI weights without my skinny butt in it. Thats a light truck lol.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:22 pm

Yea, its a 2.5/ax5/231 combo, no back seat, no insulation, no carpet, bikini top, windjammer, half doors with soft uppers, basically I try to keep it simple and no frills. There is nothing in it, it's just a fun machine. I do have a radio and speakers in the dash and sound bar, but my non-marine JVC stereo didn't like the pressure washer too much and decided to have no control over the volume, so I unplugged the harness from the back. I was surprised at how light it was though.

Oh and I weighed the s10 today...

About 4400 pounds with an empty tank and some crap in the back.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:19 pm

Thats not bad I think my moms Audi may be around the same weight. Heavy thing doesnt drive like one though.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:32 pm

I found a good set of Bravada seats today!

The passenger side seat could use some new plastic, and maybe a switch, but for the price I paid, I'm not complaining. $40 each. It has a ton of little things I'll probably go back and get. I grabbed the heater control knobs also. I may have also spotted a zr2...

Questions:

What are some various uses for the rear wiper switches? discuss please
Is the wiring for the dual 12v outlets under the dash already there on our 4 door crew cabs?
Is the wiring for the lights on the sun visors already here on our 4 door crew cabs?
What all would I need for the full leather interior swap?
What else do I need to be watching for as far as swappable parts? discuss please

Edit:

Door panels to match the seats.

95-97 Rears fit but need to be trimed (top section only to be used) newer ones don't work the door handle is at a different location.
98-2001 Front no mods just install

Rear seat.

Torskdoc wrote:Went to the local Pick and Pull Y'day. Found 3 Bravada's and a Jimmy with Power/Leather Seats in Graphite. 2 of the Bravada's and the Jimmy were Gen 2's with Split 60/40 seats. Figured 4 sets of mounts and a whole lot of holes in the body to do the mounts, NO WAY! The 3rd Bravada was a '94. The seat is one piece. Went back this morning, Took the mounts with the seat and kicked in the Afterburners after paying the Pick & Pull $25.00!!!

Got home and found some 3/16 plate. Cut and bent to match the shape of the rear mounts on the CC and drilled 2 holes for the seat mount. Got some 3/8" nutserts and after heavily grinding interferences off the front legs and the mounts (fit and grind)drilled 4 holes for the front mounts. Seat has 1-2 inches of gap btwn it and the floor. Gonna have to go back and get the seatbelt buckes off the Bravada(they have the plastic covers to hold them up).

Rear wiper switch panel.

HenryJ wrote:How about the pin assignments and color codes:
HenryJ wrote:
The factory fog light switch is below the dome light switch below the light switch,

That blank panel , to the left of the radio, is the panel for the rear wiper and hatch release. We have the same wiring harness as all the utilities (Blazers).

On the pickup wiring harness the airbag disconnect switch/wiring is there.

Can you use the wiring? YES! I even used the switch

(I've added a couple indicator LEDs since this picture)

Heres the wiring:

Pin A YEL = Accesory Voltage

Pin B DK GRN = Rear Window washer Control

Pin C GRY = Rear Window Wiper Switch Signal

Pin D BLK = Trunk Release Switch Signal

Pin E BLK = Ground

Pin F GRY Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
From the thread: Wiring question

12v outlets. http://www.s-10crewcab.net/forums/viewt ... let#p43570

HenryJ wrote:The piece is simple to remove that has the auxillary power ports. it is a small section of the center lower dash covering. Any of the utilities had it as an option. STD on the 2001 crew cab.

HenryJ wrote:The storage tray console does require some heating and remolding for clearance...

discuss please

HenryJ wrote:If the wiring is under the dash panel without ports, and I don't know why it would not be, it would be a really easy way to add power ports.

5-1-2004 - Art's truck had only one port down there so we installed this one in his truck .
Really simple "plug-n-play" operation

RaleighBlaZeR2 wrote:The pics above were helpful. However, my question is, what does the wiring harness from the accessory plugs pictured above plug into to get to the fuse box. I have removed the insulator, pulled apart my glove box, etc. and can't seem to see anywhere to plug the harness in to give the plugs power. Thanks,

HenryJ wrote:The manual lists connector C223 as being for the extended cab.
I know that at least the upper portion of the dash wiring harness is from the utility since we have the rear wiper/washer switch connector. My assumption would be that the connector is taped up and in your harness as well.

If you can not find it, or if it does not exist, then you just need a positive battery connection, and a ground.

HenryJ wrote:C223 is the connector number. It is part of the wiring harness and not likely to be labeled as such.

The wires exit the bundle just behind the hinge point of the glove box, about three inches to the left of the interior light. The wires are orange and black. The wires exit the wiring bundle about the same place as the courtesy lights wires.

From the point they exit the bundle, the wires are about 6" to a white male connector. This is what plugs into the connector attached to the panel.

It is not likely that it will be easy to find without the panel to know exactly where to be looking. The wires are on the back , bottom side of the bundle and exit down behind the left corner of the glovebox hinge to the panel.

Get the panel. If you don't have the connection , add one.

04crewvt wrote:My 2004 does not seem to have the wire harness connection to add the port so I just splice tapped into the existing 12v lighter port for the two constant hot ports one front and one back. For the switched hot I wired into the hatch/rear wiper harness using the yellow wire for + lead and the black for ground.

holstdb wrote:About the accessory port thing:

-Base model trucks didn't get those at all! Just a single outlet/lighter in the ashtray.

-2003+ uplevel trucks have only one aux port under the dash because GM is cheap. They also took away the glove box light (but the holes are there for that, so you can readd.)

-All GM cars and trucks have constant 12v power on the accessory ports, they don't shut off with the key nor do they shut down after a specified time (i.e. 30 mins or whatever) Rundown protection might kick in based on voltage though?

I'm swapping in a Jimmy Diamond Edition center console which comes up to the under side of the dash and would prevent the ashtray from opening, so the Diamond Edition (and the Envoy) has an ashtray delete plate with THREE outlets (like the older 94-97's had.) So I swapped that one in.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:38 am

Check the fuse for the dual accessory ports. Mine I believe has a 20A fuse and theres another 15A fuse for the cig lighter. I removed my ash tray to install my kenwood mobile so I used the line from the cig lighter to power my Bazooka (temporary perminant installation.) It goes against everything I know about car audio wiring but it works and I do not get any noise humming or buzzing on the amp.

If you need any more info from the service manuals electrical section on any of the color codes for pins and plugs etc let me know, I have the books that HenryJ previously owned.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:37 am

_STUCKY wrote:What are some various uses for the rear wiper switches?

Anything you can use a switch for. Mine was the rear fuel tank transfer switch , offroad lights and fog lights.

Is the wiring for the dual 12v outlets under the dash already there on our 4 door crew cabs?

It was on mine, but mine came with them.

Is the wiring for the lights on the sun visors already here on our 4 door crew cabs?

It may be , but you need that harness for the auto dimming mirrors, trip computer and homelink too. It is quite a bit of work and requires digging in to the C204 connector, but it is worth it for all it adds. It will come with the interior temp sensor for the auto HVAC too even though you won't need that.

What else do I need to be watching for as far as swappable parts?

I'd grab the tow mode switch and BCM. Maybe see if it has the rear sway bar and a set of shields?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:55 am

Thanks guys

My first thoughts though...

I'm not sure what/where the BCM is.... I know (think) Body Control Module, but I'm pretty new to the s10s. A quick search of BCM doesn't tell me much. Feel free to enlighten me

As far as the overhead console/ home link, I don't think it would work on mine without some reworking of the plastic on the bravada piece. I have an aftermarket sunroof. The original overhead console was cut in half and had a piece of cloth put on the ends, along with the switch to the sunroof. The bravada did have a sunroof, I assume factory because it was a pretty clean install and I never saw the switches for it, so it may work. For the home link, I don't know what that does. I've skimmed through that thread, but never really caught what the advantage was. Again, feel free to enlighten me

I did tell them that if they have the shields I need, I'll come get them. They said that getting the brackets for the engine shield was not going to be a problem. They also said they rarely see the aluminum front shield, especially on the non ZR2s.

For the rear wiper switch, the only thing I've added , electronics wise, is the bazooka bass tube. I don't have any lights added on, no cb, no anything. So what uses do I have for the switch. I thought about maybe adding some lights underneath, maybe in the bed. I know the wiper switch part could be used for that, but what about the release part (or is it for the washer fluid, I was focused on seats lol)? It seems to me that that switch would only be hot when pushed, so what uses does that have? Maybe I just don't understand how the switch works?

I'm gonna do some looking at my bed topper and the roof rack on the bravada. I have an idea...

I did some Craigslist searching last night, and found a 97 bravada getting parted out. Hopefully I can go get the rear door panels. I can grab the fronts off the bravada in the junkyard. Question, would the 97 seats bolt right in? If so, I'll try to grab them too if they aren't too bad.

Rear sway bar, do I really need it? I haven't had any wheel hop issues or been excessively blown around by the wind, and I have the Boise spring works kit, which is still pretty stiff.

As far as the bravada shaft for the front axle goes, they said they don't sell pieces and I'd have to buy the whole axle assembly for $200. I'd rather pay $300 for the stronger, longer shaft from synergy. But, if I can find one there with 3.73s, and maybe talk them down a little bit, I may go ahead an pick it up at some point. That way I'd have a complete spare front axle, if I ever needed it. I am also going to inquire about the rear axle in the 2 door blazer that I am almost sure was a ZR2, I saw bilsteins on the back.

I will be doing some searching and lots of reading as I get time. I want to get the seats cleaned up and put in today, but I seem to have 99 things going on today and tomorrow. I plan to go back up there Monday to try and grab some more stuff. If anyone wants me to keep an eye open for anything, let me know. I'll ship it on your dime with my cost from the junkyard.

Well, those seats aren't gonna put themselves in...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:28 am

_STUCKY wrote:I'm not sure what/where the BCM is.... I know (think) Body Control Module, but I'm pretty new to the s10s. A quick search of BCM doesn't tell me much. Feel free to enlighten me

It is the module on the transmission tunnel next to the heater. The switch for the tow mode may be on the center console?

As far as the overhead console/ home link, I don't think it would work on mine without some reworking of the plastic on the bravada piece. I have an aftermarket sunroof. The original overhead console was cut in half and had a piece of cloth put on the ends, along with the switch to the sunroof. The bravada did have a sunroof, I assume factory because it was a pretty clean install and I never saw the switches for it, so it may work. For the home link, I don't know what that does. I've skimmed through that thread, but never really caught what the advantage was. Again, feel free to enlighten me

Operates wireless remotes. Google Homelink. Mine unlocks my front door and turns on the house lights.

They said that getting the brackets for the engine shield was not going to be a problem.

Maybe. Most discard them when they remove the front axle.

Maybe I just don't understand how the switch works?

Momentary, on-off. A switch is just that. make it do what you want it to using a relay.

Rear sway bar, do I really need it?

Dunno. That is for you to decide.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:40 am

No home link for me!

I will need a lesson on relays, but I like the sounds of this. I'll get the switch and start looking for some lights.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:51 pm

I can't seem to find a plug under the carpet for the passenger seat. Any ideas? You guys sure it's under there?

I'm gonna go pull the center console so I can pull the carpet back a little more.

Drivers seat is in and working.

Edit:

Torskdoc wrote:Found out that the memory unit runs off a class 2 serial data signal in the seat harness. (Brown with white stripe.) So I look on the harness in my truck and it's got one (I double checked with a meter to the BCM)

Black with white stripe is seat belt, The orange with black stripe is power, and black is ground. My harness was complete so I plugged it in and HOT DAMN EVERYTHING WORKS.

The pass side had no provision for power seating, so I spliced a 14ga wire into the dr. side orange and black wires,(Solder and heat shrink) ran them under the carpet, and out at the heater duct. PLUG AND PLAY!

Looks like I need to go have them cut off the harness so I can wire it up.... Monday....

Edit x2:

If I have them just pull the wire harness for the passenger side seat, would it plug right into the power source? No cutting of wires, plug and play?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 3:52 pm

I ended up taking the drivers seat back out, pulling the console, and rerouting the wires for the drivers seat. I had just enough that I could stretch it over to the passenger side to run the seat controls. I could just barely get the torx bit in at the back. Basically, I had the rear nut and torx bolt loose, and with the front nuts off, I was able to tip the seat back to get the wires plugged in to adjust the seat to a comfortable position. Then I tipped it back, unplugged it, and tightened it down, re installed the console, then the drivers seat.

It doesn't look like it will be very pleasant to find where the passenger side harness goes on the vehicle end. I think I'm just gonna get the harness and wires, and wire it up to the drivers side. That looks like the easiest method, please correct me I'm wrong.

I can't believe how terrible my original seats are. I now feel like I am in a truck, since I'm not sitting on the floor anymore. This is the best $80 I've spent on the truck so far.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 5:17 pm

Very nice

Heated too?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:37 pm

Oh yea!

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Jan 26, 2013 11:17 pm

The most practical and common use for the Homelink is garage doors. I have my place on 1, mom and dads on 2 and when i get down to the house in florida one day, that will be 3.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:39 am

They are good for gates too... I have my gate and two garage doors on mine...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 9:33 am

I think I'm gonna try to snag the homelink stuff, but not for the homelink stuff

I want the mpg, range, ect. I'm also wondering if the console in the bravada has the switches for the sunroof, and if it can be used on to run my sunroof.

My question is, what all tools should I take with me to get parts from a donor?

I've got basic metric and standard wrenches, a set of torx bits, flat and Philips screwdrivers, some metric sockets, and some other random tools that are always in the back of the truck. Anything I'm gonna need that you guys can think of?

I'm gonna try today to get at least:

Homelink, wiring, console, and mirror
Door panels
Tailgate switch
Wiring for passenger seat
Not busted plastic for the seats
Skid plates and brackets

Things I may try to find and pull if I have time:

Bravada roof rack for my bed topper
Tow/haul button and BCM if they have one with it
Floor shifter

Things I'm gonna see if they will pull for me and set off to the side:

Bravada front diff in 3.73
ZR2 rear axle in 3.73

What am I missing?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:10 pm

Uh oh! I'm at the junkyard, and don't see how to get this off.

Any help?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 1:06 pm

The screw at the front should be it. That i believe is a regular philips or flat.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:03 pm

It was actually clips at the back. Pull hard...er...

I ended up grabbing:
Homelink console with wiring for both it and the sunroof switch
Both door panels with switches
Harness for the passenger side seat
Dash bezel with switches
Glove box light
Dual 12v outlet
Maybe a few other things...

All for $100 and my time.

Special thanks goes out to ApproachMedium for answering my dumb questions while I was pillaging that poor, poor Bravada.

Pics n' stuff later

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Mon Jan 28, 2013 7:20 pm

Glad I could be the helpful hotline. LOL

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 10:17 am

Torskdoc wrote:Found out that the memory unit runs off a class 2 serial data signal in the seat harness. (Brown with white stripe.) So I look on the harness in my truck and it's got one (I double checked with a meter to the BCM)

Black with white stripe is seat belt, The orange with black stripe is power, and black is ground. My harness was complete so I plugged it in and HOT DAMN EVERYTHING WORKS.

The pass side had no provision for power seating, so I spliced a 14ga wire into the dr. side orange and black wires,(Solder and heat shrink) ran them under the carpet, and out at the heater duct. PLUG AND PLAY!

Plug and Play compatability = :thumb:

This is from here: http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic ... ats#p73581

That is slightly deceiving. He didn't need to hard wire his passenger side seat in. After spending the majority of yesterday morning rounding up wiring stuff, I started digging in on the truck to wire in my passenger side seat.

After doing this:

I discovered this:

There is no way to find that unless 1) you know it's there, or 2) you pull the carpet up.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:44 pm

The newest project:
http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8884

A slow build thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs ... these.html

Slight progress has been made.

Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, intake gasket, water pump, thermostat, idler pulley all got replaced. Hmmm..... Other things happened under the hood too, but my memory is failing me right now.

I got B truck plates, liability, and title in hand.

Radio fixed. I pulled the maybe 3 year old Alpine out of my K5 and swapped it in. The speakers were not hooked up to the way out dated Pioneer CD player it had, but it did have a nice set of Infinity speakers in the doors. I bought some Pioneer 6x9s for the empty holes above the seats. The remote that I use with the Alpine in my S10 works with this stereo also.

12 volt outlets on the console fixed, dome light fixed, headlights replaced with Silverstars, most other lights have been fixed, counter top removed, a bunch of useless brackets removed, vacuumed.

I tried to take the grill off to give it a quick paint job and it crumbled, so I tried to find a used one with no luck. Ordered a new grill online for like $50 and sprayed it flat black, along with the bumper and some other plastic crap.

I took it to have a hitch made. The guy took a bunch of measurements and said it'll be about a week. It will be tucked up high and bolt on.

Discovered this:

Under the passenger side door, where the step is, I guess the wrench got stuck. They didn't forget it in there, they puttied over it!

I've still got a lot to do...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:50 pm

On pirate there has been a lot of s10 questions getting asked lately. The pirate crowd, is, lets just say, not as friendly as it is over here. Granted, a lot of the time the questions are rather silly. The thing is everyone just flames away and tells people to go to another site. Well, the pirate rules say to not drive away members and send them to other sites. So, I did a little copy and paste and added a few other things and made a thread with some s10 modifications that don't involve a torch and a Dana 60. Which by the way, HJ, I hope you don't mind me quoting you a couple times. I'll take it out if you want. It's humorous to me that they think the front axle is going to instantly explode with anything more than a stock sized tire and a gravel road. I'm not implying that these are the greatest rock crawlers or mud runners, nor am I saying they are 4x4 world's best kept secret. But anyways, I just thought I'd share this with you guys. I enjoy the comments, although it is gonna make it hard for someone to sift through when they are looking for information. The pirates do make me laugh.

Example:

[QUOTE=gmcxt;16160906]Body lifts are tarded.

Want to be a fawsome rock star in 3 inches of snow and run 32x11.50s with stock wheels on your sweet ass S-series truck? All you need is keys and shackels. You dont need shocks or anything else. I got a kit for $50, it changed my life.

Pros
1. you can be rollin on 32s dog, maybe even some shitty tread 33s.
2. women will be attracted to you.

Cons
1. It will ride like s###.
2. It will effect your braking badly as you will have only 1 or 2 inches of down travel.
3. You will be replacing balljoints, pitman, and idler arms almost anually.
4. You will have bad bump steer.
5. You will loose some of your turning radius as your front tires will rub the swaybar and frame before lock. But it looks cool cause it polishes that spot to a like bling condition.
6. Men will be attracted to you.
--------------

With these 2 simple modifications you can ride around like a boss.

Truth you f### retard :flipoff2:[/QUOTE]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/11 ... hread.html

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:04 pm

Wow just reading that thread shows that forum has one hell of a lot of butthurt going on about S10s. God forbid they ever saw something from VWVortex.....

Some people need to get a life, and by get a life I mean get off the internet. We are all brought do these places because we share a passion for cars or trucks and doing what makes ourselves happy with them.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:13 pm

Yea it's kinda hard for people on there to give a straight answer. They hate it when knowledge is shared. It does serve its purpose though as far as modifing any platform into a toy. There is a lot of good information and amazing build threads on there. There is always gonna be those people that just can't fathom having s10 information in the Chevy section. Lol

I was actually thinking today, oh snap they are getting the info on the bravada shaft and building the 233 into a unit ready for a front and rear axle swap.

What other stuff that's along the lines of the 4x4 system do I need to dazzle them with?

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Fri Feb 22, 2013 5:41 pm

LOL Well, I am sure they wouldnt like me, seeing my signature quote.

I am sure there is plenty more you can throw at them. What about the manual diff lock cable?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 1:13 am

ApproachMedium wrote: What about the manual diff lock cable?

I have a feeling they would look at that as not so hardcore. Those kinda had a bad rep in the early years for being problematic, not just on the s10 though. Jeep, chevy, dodge all used a disconnect of some kind through the years. I know there was a redesign at some point, but personally, I'd rather just do the bravada shaft. Actually, eventually, I will. Unless something goes drastically wrong, that's my plan. A very long and drawn out and thought through solid axle swap will happen eventually, as long as I don't some how wreck it. But, it will spend a few more years on the IFS.

I was more wondering along the lines of longer, stronger, better control arms and cv shafts?

How about that solid axle swap kit that was out a while back from I think offroad direct? They had 1 piece that really caught my eye. It was a unit bearing, hub, whatever you would like to call it, that bolted on to a jeep Dana 30, but had the s10 bolt pattern. I believe it used the jeep brakes on the s10 rotor, but could be wrong. The business has since folded, apparently. I would love to get a pair of these, if any one has a pair and wants to get rid of them, get ahold of me.

What about cutting the wheel wells for big tires? I don't mean like the skids cuts, though. I mean like the low rider guys would do to stuff a big shiny wheel. It's the same idea.

What about gutting these under the hood? How much is really needed? I'd think a whole bunch of wires could come out and still have a running driving truck. I am thinking spartan.

Links and pictures are always handy.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 3:26 am

Ah I see. I am fine with the stock setup. The parts are cheap enough and easy enough to change when something fails. It has only annoyed me so far, has not left me stranded so in my experience I am happy.

Better control arms/bushings/ball joints though, that I would love to see. In talking with Dave from after hours whos been doing some work for me it seems those are the real weak points of the front suspension of these trucks. I have yet to have any problems since my whole front end was redone again last november this time with the Moog parts, but I also dont offroad the truck. Other than doing 180s/360s and drifting it in the snow once a year thats about as hard as it gets driven ever.

Cutting the wheel wells could be a valid one. I really screwed both of my fenders up when I had gotten the wider wheels with the incorrect offset. I have since replaced the one fender and fender liner so I no longer have one side messed up anymore, but having to have known the correct way to go about modifying the fender when I had them wheels I am sure would have been valuable. Now for me its GM stock wheels or nothing. I am done with aftermarket junk.

Gutting/cleaning up the bay wouldnt be a bad one either if you were talking about a show or pure off road toy and eliminate all of the extra stuff. There are a few things I could def see myself doing for mine as a daily driver though if I wanted to clean the bay up and keep all of the stock stuff. If they can do it to a Volkswagen, I am sure we can do it to an S10.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:47 am

Just wanting to double check this, but do ZR2 springs bolt in? I haven't found anything confirming or denying that they do. It seems most people just do a shackle lift, instead of messing around with the leaves.

Edit: Ah jeez....
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f19/zr2-r ... 10-453497/

Edit: there is still a lot of "it should work" in that thread, anyone know for sure?

Edit again lol:

you guys are wrong, there is certainly a differnce between zr2 and non zr2 springs. zr2 blazers have the exact same brackets as the regular blazers, the only difference in ride height is the springs. i've also personally seen a set of zr2 springs (not sure if they were pickup or blazer) lift the rear of a 93ish 2 door blazer by about 3".

i also remember when i first joined this forum, there was a guy that told me that zr2 packs had a slightly stiffer spring rate.

yea it gets tricky with the ZR2 springs, they use two different springs, the ZR2 pickups and the non -ZR2 4x4 pickups use the same leafpring, the ZR2 pickups get there lift in the back from the front leafspring hangers.

Here is were it gets confusing, we all know that second generation Blazers and Jimmys (95-05) use a shoter leafspring, Donahue is correct, ZR2 Blazers and non-4x4 Blazers use the same front leafspring hanger, so how does the ZR2 Blazer get it's lift in the back? The leafsprings on ZR2 Blazers has more of an arch to the leafsprings and the ends (eyes) of the leafsprings are bend different then non-ZR2 Blazers to give it about a 2" lift over the non ZR2 Blazer

ALL S-10/Sonoma/Blazer/Jimmy/Zr2 leafsprings are the same length (54"). Some just have different spring pin locations.

Indigo04 · Post by **Indigo04** » Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:24 pm

ZR2 leafs are the same as any other 4x4 leafs, they just have lower mounting points.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:32 pm

Attica bound.

ApproachMedium · Post by **ApproachMedium** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:00 pm

Have a blast!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:55 pm

That's the plan!

Edit: ......

..............oh, and not freeze to death......

Indigo04 · Post by **Indigo04** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:44 pm

Attica is always a fun place to go to.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:12 pm

_STUCKY wrote:That's the plan!

Edit: ......

..............oh, and not freeze to death......

Heat is good...Matress heater

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 11:46 am

My secret weapon:

Don't tell all the guys with tents...

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 12:37 pm

_STUCKY wrote:My secret weapon:
...

Don't tell all the guys with tents...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:47 am

I just pulled my dads 01 dodge cummins extended cab long bed 4wd out of the mud with my s10. It surprises me more and more everyday.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:32 pm

_STUCKY wrote:I just pulled my dads 01 dodge cummins extended cab long bed 4wd out of the mud with my s10. It surprises me more and more everyday.

And your pictures and video turned out good, right?

I blanked out mine when I pulled out the F350 Superduty buried to the rockers. He was on 35" tires! Took some work to break the suction, but I did it.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Mar 09, 2013 1:18 pm

He was not in the mood for pictures lol

I'm off to pillage a Craigslist find. Guy has 3 s10s, I got a buddy that needs parts, I want skid plates, it's nice and wet out, wish me luck.