Bumpstops for the front

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:14 pm

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cf ... r=15712438

GM PART # 15712438

I ordered a set of these from gmpartsdirect.com and received an email today saying they are back ordered with no ETA on another shipment. So, I need an alternative.

Who has these up front and can give a measurement on the length?

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/En ... k-Eyes.asp

http://www.daystarweb.com/productlistin ... Bump+Stops

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:21 pm

I had some but the rotted off... Been running without them for some time now..

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:36 am

The urethane bump stops are too harsh and you need the progressive spring that the fullsize offers. Hit the salvage yard.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:05 am

Got mine at local dealer.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 11:59 am

I'm using the Energy Suspension 99101 and I'm satisfied with them.

James

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:27 pm

JaVeRo wrote:I'm using the Energy Suspension 99101 and I'm satisfied with them.

James

Did you cut them down? I have a set of those in my parts pile and have considered using them.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:09 pm

The ES bumpstops won't work. They might be enough for stock and only if you don't use them hard. I tried those and even tried shimming them to work. In the pictures below you can see they are shorter than stock and very harsh, That is hard on suspension parts.

Found the pictures for the original thread: Bump Stops

HenryJ wrote:...

I did pick up some bump stops. I picked up a whole bag of various stops that I thought might work. They are cheap at the salvage yards. No one ever wants those.

Left to right: GM PART # 15712438 $11.08 each (new). These are off of the rear of late '90s and early 2000 Chevrolet fullsize pickups.
Next is the stock bump stop.
Last is the Energy suspension Part # 9.9101G $11.99 pair.

The first set has a hole in the center.

This would have them act much like a rubber spring. The front of the fullsize uses the same design , but the mounting cup is welded to the chassis. That is why I chose the rear stops. They are a direct bolt in installation. I know the fullsize ride on the stops all the time. There is no clearance on the a-arm.

A little increase in spring rate would be nice. That is my thinking right now. This might just be the answer. They are soft. Not as soft as stock, but flexy. It works for the fullsize, why not ours? This would be a gradual increase in rate. As they compress they exert resistance. Not as harsh hopefully.

I added a comparison shot of the polyurethane bump stop mounted.

You can see that even with the 1/8" thick washer to space it down a little there is quite a space. I don't think that is bad. I do have some reservations about them though. Harder may deliver more of the forces elsewhere. They might tend to stress other bushings? Steve mentioned that he ruined a set by over torquing. What if I pound them? They might crack and break out just the same?
Steve did link longer versions in the link posted above. I really don't think those are the answer. The two longer ones require a bolt to be threaded into the nut. Upon compression this chews on the bumper. Heaven forbid you should compress to the point of hitting the threaded portion of that bolt, or that moisture should enter. they are a real pain to cut off when the bolt will not come out. They burn forever and smoke something terrible. I definitely prefer the stops with a threaded stud. ES has only one length that will work in that case.

Now that things are being upgraded for the front, what about the rear? I only had the rear rub a couple times, but heck what if I want to really jump this thing? Time to look at that too.

On the left: GM PART # 15023225 $21.76 each (new). These are off the back of a late '90s Chevrolet Tahoe. They are Polyurethane and solid. No hole through these. As you can see they are quite a bit longer than the stock ones. The rear has been raised more than the front though, so this may be a better match.
As you can see they are a different design. They can be slid into the channel for the stock stops and with a little work, can be tightened in place from above.

I jacked one wheel up as far as my jack would and it did not touch. the tire had a couple more inches to rise yet and the stop had over an inch. These too are flexy. not as much as the hollow fronts, but still should offer some cushion.

Now to find a good place to jump it and really test things out.

If you are planning the MML, there is no other choice. I know it is hard to believe we have tried many combinations and about all the variations already. The only other option out there is Timberen load boosters.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:10 pm

HenryJ wrote:.......If you are planning the MML, there is no other choice.

+1
We learned to search for this perfect set up after racing against the sun setting in Moab.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:44 pm

I went to the local dealership today. They cannot get part # 15712438. They however can get part # 15023225 , but they want a whopping $45 apiece for those suckers. I do not have a local scrapyard I can go get parts myself. I'm also in the rust belt and have little hope of finding good, used bump stops.

Anything from here that would work? http://www.timbren.com/index.htm

That's a good thread, by the way.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 4:16 pm

_STUCKY wrote: Anything from here that would work? http://www.timbren.com/index.htm

Yup. http://www.timbren.com/timbren-applicat ... GMFS10.pdf

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 7:18 am

So I did some pricing for the Timbren GMFS10 kit, and the cheapest I found it for was about $190. Needless to say, I won't be buying it. So I did a search for Foam bump stops and came up with these...

http://www.yourhotcar.com/prod/Mcgaughy ... 39/855871/
Dimensions (inches): 5 x 4 x 3

http://www.airbagit.com/SearchResults.a ... =Bump+stop
This place has 3 foam bump stops, but no dimensions on them.

http://thesuspensionsource.mybigcommerc ... -x-2-5-od/
Product Description Foam Bump Stop-Universal Cone 2.01 tall x 2.5" OD. I think will be to short

http://www.belltech-store.com/products/ ... kit-1.html
Weight & Measures
Weight: 0.59 lbs
Length: 9.50"
Width: 3.25"
Height: 4.00"
Way too long, but could be cut down.

http://www.belltech-store.com/products/ ... kit-2.html
Weight & Measures
Weight: 1.00 lbs
Length: 3.00"
Width: 3.00"
Height: 3.00"

http://www.belltech-store.com/products/ ... p-kit.html
Weight & Measures
Weight: 0.38 lbs
Length: 3.25"
Width: 2.25"
Height: 5.75"

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-131 ... -soft.html
Maybe I should think outside the box and use these? They slide onto the shaft of the shock.
Edit: these do not have good reviews from real off roaders.

I still would like someone to measure part number 15712438 for me. I've got a buddy with an 01' Duramax, but have had no luck getting a measurement from him.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 1:02 pm

15712438 - BUMPER
GM PART # 15712438
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
List Price: $19.03
Price: $11.07

There are still some out there in dealer stock. Pasco , WA had some. $16.18 each plus freight.

Northverdeautosalvage.com has a "WHOLE S**t-ton of them out there". You can get them for $25 a pair shipped. Tell them Brule told you to call , and I can swing by to check them before they ship to make sure they are the right ones. Drop me a PM so I know you are talking to them.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:52 am

These Stops are exactly 3 5/8 " long. Both the solid, from the rear and the hollow ones from the front are the same size. I put the solid ones on the front for a more firm stop and have the perfect reaction when I do come down on them. The hollow ones on the rear are untested, as I have never bottomed out the rear.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:05 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:These Stops are exactly 3 5/8 " long.

Thank you.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:44 am

_STUCKY wrote:
Horsehammerr wrote:These Stops are exactly 3 5/8 " long.

Thank you.

You are Welcome. I will add that I have both front and rear lifted 1 1/2" via Torsion Bar crank front and Daystar extended shackles rear. This leaves about 1/4" clearance between stops and lower arms front, but after 3 years running there has been no problem. I really like the quick response I get in cornering and medium speed hard bumps. Like I said, the rear has very little to report, since that never bottoms out. Still with the hollow full size bump stops on the rear I have 4" of clearance to the axle.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 6:30 am

Horsehammerr wrote: the rear has very little to report, since that never bottoms out. Still with the hollow full size bump stops on the rear I have 4" of clearance to the axle.

Are you saying that the rear stops don't really need changed?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 20, 2012 3:13 am

_STUCKY wrote:
Horsehammerr wrote: the rear has very little to report, since that never bottoms out. Still with the hollow full size bump stops on the rear I have 4" of clearance to the axle.
Are you saying that the rear stops don't really need changed?

The only reason I put the hollow full size stops there is because I decided to go with the solids up front. Since I bought both, then figured the solid made more since up front, what would I do with the left over hollows ? So I put them on the rear

Did they need to be replaced ? Probably not but, what the heck, I had them so I stuck 'em on.

The rear was lifted an 1 1/2 like the front so, the longer bump stop seemed like the thing to do. I really don't care if it ever makes contact, it just looks right.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 20, 2012 5:28 am

Horsehammerr wrote:... The only reason I put the hollow full size stops there is because I decided to go with the solids up front. Since I bought both, then figured the solid made more since up front, what would I do with the left over hollows ? So I put them on the rear Did they need to be replaced ? Probably not but, what the heck, I had them so I stuck 'em on. The rear was lifted an 1 1/2 like the front so, the longer bump stop seemed like the thing to do. I really don't care if it ever makes contact, it just looks right.

I have a couple problems with this reasoning.
First what size tires are you running? Not 33" if I recall correctly. You were having problems rubbing due to the offset of your wheels and the 31x10.5-15 tires. You needed a stop to keep the front tires that stick way out from hitting the top of the fender when negotiating a curb cut. Take no offense and don't let those who are trying to complete the MML get confused.

_STUCKY wrote:
Horsehammerr wrote:These Stops are exactly 3 5/8 " long.
Thank you.

I do not see how that measurement would be useful. The material and its ability to compress at a given rate is also critical to the application. A piece of steel 3 5/8" long will work differently than a marshmallow. Neither has been tested , or would work. You are on your own using a mystery meterial and will have to experiment with your own length.

For the MML and 33" tires the front suspension needs some help in the form of a spring assist. It does not need a stop, it needs a progressive spring with enough resistance to prevent damage from bottoming. This allows controlled articulation. The rear does not have problems with the spring rate. It needs a positive stop, even though it may be less critical and less likely to rub under full compression. The rear can do fine with the stock stops in place since after the rear lift bottoming is a non-issue. That is why I have never focused on installation for the rear. Sure I did mine, but it was just more icing on a cake that was done. I had them so I installed them. Those solid stops are more of a foam design. If you offroad your truck and fully articulate the front suspension, I suspect that they will deterorate rapidly due to the leverage and weight the front suspension can deliver. The "hollow stops" are made to flex and of a different material.

The stops I recommend for the front are available from more than one source and work exactly as the fullsize truck front suspension is designed.

HenryJ wrote:15712438 - BUMPER
GM PART # 15712438
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1
List Price: $19.03
Price: $11.07

There are still some out there in dealer stock. Pasco , WA had some. $16.18 each plus freight.

Northverdeautosalvage.com has a "WHOLE S**t-ton of them out there". You can get them for $25 a pair shipped. Tell them Brule told you to call , and I can swing by to check them before they ship to make sure they are the right ones. Drop me a PM so I know you are talking to them.

Sorry that I can not get behind the solid stops up front, urethane, or other ideas. The "longer stops with the holes" are the best answer for the MML and someone who desires to run a 33" tire , IMO. I just hate to see you guys go through all the experimentation that I did. That can lead to heart ache and damages. Please do not take this as a flame. I just don't want a lurker to get on the wrong path.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:50 am

The only reason I gave the measurement of these stops is because STUCKY asked. My solid full size front stops work for me in that they help to slow the bottom out thing when I hit a bump a little hard. They are polyurethane from GM and do exactly as I require. Reading my SIG I see that I run 30 x 9.5 x 15 tires on 3 3/4 " back space 8 x 15 alloy wheels. Yes that sets them 5" wider than stock and gives a lot more stability in corners. I'm ONLY lifted 1 1/2" to clearance the tires, which are Hankook ATM Dynapro and perform for me off road and on road with no regrets. I am in noway trying to recommend anything I do to my truck to anyone else JUST PLAIN FYI .

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 4:56 am

That clears it up! Thanks!

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:20 am

The length will help me to find a suitable replacement, since the recommended part number is not readily available new in my area. They will not be available new anywhere in a few years, im sure. There are bump stops out the wazoo available online. The ones on airbagit.com that I linked look nice. The bell tech ones look even better, if they have one in a similar length, which I don't believe they do, so they are out.

I'm not saying that part number 15712438 will not work. But for me, it's unavailable here. I'm not saying polyurethane bump stops would be better. I agree with the reasoning as to why those are a good bumpstop for this application.

I asked for a measurement so I had something to work off of as a reference.

The way I see it is simple. I can't find them locally, so I need something else.

Edit: Besides, like I said a few posts up, I live in the rust belt. I could never expect them to last. The originals practically fell out when I sprayed them with pb blaster. Jongo88 said his rotted off and he isn't in the rust belt. I plan to keep this truck until I completely mangle it. I'll be in the same boat I am now in a couple years when they fall off. I will be getting something aftermarket, when I find a suitable candidate.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:26 am

Wow, I am sorry. I thought you were looking for the MML stops. They are available and should be for some time. You are probably right that you may not find them locally.
I mis-understood that you did not want to use them and are seeking a different stop. Keep in mind that measurements mean nothing unless density and diameter are also considered. I did lots of testing too. My experiments and searches ended with the cost and availability of the fullsize stops. I saw no value in continuing after that. At $25 delivered, you will be hard pressed to have a better answer.
We do look forward to your installs and testing.

(just trying to clear it up for the lurkers and keep them on the right track)

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:23 pm

15712438 is a micro cellular urethane (MCU) bump stop with a length of 3.625 (3 5/8 inches). It's a start...

I also was not looking for an e-argument over bump stops. Just wanting to find another option... Preferably one that doesn't fall off after a few salt covered winters...

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:46 pm

_STUCKY wrote:...one that doesn't fall off after a few salt covered winters.

I doubt that will be an issue since there are numerous fullsize trucks where that is not an issue. If that was a problem, you can bet the aftermarket alternative would be worse.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:19 pm

I had the full size ones on my truck but the rubber rotted off them... All that is left is the mettel cups....

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:01 pm

Jongo88 wrote:I had the full size ones on my truck but the rubber rotted off them... All that is left is the mettel cups....

Were they new or used when you installed them? How long did you have them? What are you going to use now?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:20 pm

They came from the junk yard.. lol. I have not had any problems without them so I said if it's not broke don't fis it..lol
I'm only running 31 10.50's though...

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:39 pm

Jongo88 wrote:... I'm only running 31 10.50's though...

Ahh, Probably near stock wheel rear spacing too?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:00 pm

I have 1.25 spacers in front and 2.5 in back on 16 x 8 Trans am wheels.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:01 am

Are those wheels similar rear spacing to the Z28 wheels? 6" and 7" rearspacing on an 8" wheel. Front and rear had different rearspacing.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:16 am

All 4 are 6 and 1/8 back spacing...

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:33 am

That puts you out there pretty good when it comes to scrub radius. Are you still running the 265/70-16 tires? Those are only 30.5 tall and offer lots more room than a 31x10.5-15 tire. The smaller size would explain lots.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:54 am

Yep that's the size. When I put them side by side to my old 31's they were the same size. But all tires may be different sizes... This is the perfect combo for me. I have no rub anywhere. I can stand it cross ways in a ditch with one front and one back wheel off the ground with no rub. I can turn it lock to lock with no rub.
Now it took a BL and skids cut outs to do it...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:03 am

Jongo88 wrote:I had the full size ones on my truck but the rubber rotted off them... All that is left is the mettel cups....

That is the reason I do not want used ones...

If that was me, I would buy these: http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail ... ductID=666
Then I'd take the sway bar off of 1 side and try to compress the suspension as far down as I could until the tire came in contact with the fender and measure the distance for the bumpstop, add what ever I felt comfortable with to the length, and cut it off. It would do exactly as it's intended to do, stop the tire from contacting the fender.

Harsh, no. It wouldn't do a thing until it is needed and even then would be a lot less harsh that mangling the fender and/or cutting the tire.

What I'm looking at is over the shock shaft jounce bumpers (to slow uptravel) combined with a polyurathane bump stop (to keep the tire out of the fender) mounted in the stock location. If they don't work as intended, I'll take them off, toss them in the parts pile, eventually find a use for them on the jeeps, and mark it down in my book of epic failures

I can agree to disagree, but I'm not drinking the

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:44 am

_STUCKY wrote:If that was me, I would buy these: http://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail ... ductID=666
Then I'd take the sway bar off of 1 side and try to compress the suspension as far down as I could until the tire came in contact with the fender and measure the distance for the bumpstop, add what ever I felt comfortable with to the length, and cut it off. It would do exactly as it's intended to do, stop the tire from contacting the fender.

Leave plenty of extra to compensate for the load delivered under use. Static loading as you describe is much less.
Also keep in mind the point at which these are installed. It is not a straight line as those are designed to be used as straight/solid axle bump stops. Ours is a pinch point / lever. That is the reason for the softer progressive stops used.

What I'm looking at is over the shock shaft jounce bumpers (to slow uptravel) combined with a polyurathane bump stop (to keep the tire out of the fender) mounted in the stock location. If they don't work as intended, I'll take them off, toss them in the parts pile, eventually find a use for them on the jeeps, and mark it down in my book of epic failures
I can agree to disagree, but I'm not drinking the

Gotta do your own experimenting. I fully understand that. Don't discount the work that has been done before you though. I think you will find a picture of those cut to fit stops that Reed was going to use. I have a whole sack full of stops in my garage.
Try the Koolaid before you label it poison. Keep in mind that the used stops we are using are REAR, not front. They are not "used" really. I put mine through hell and back without deterioration. Eastern Oregon is desert. No salts. Stuff mummifies. We can still find 60 year old iron in good shape

Keep an open mind and don't put on the blinders.
Be sure to let us know how it works out for you.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri Oct 26, 2012 6:44 pm

To throw it out there, I went with the recommended hollow stops from the full size. I live in lots of salt and even my Bilsteins are showing their age at just a couple years there's little paint left. The stops are holding up well though.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 7:05 am

I keep hearing people touch up the damage after salt with POR15 ? Is that the best thing to do?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:28 am

Guess what I got yesterday...

I partially blame the kid behind the parts desk at the Chevy dealership....

I went in there the other day and was way more persistent about finding these bump stops. He tells me, after like 5-10 minutes, he needed a vin number to find them. Which is really stupid if you ask me, cause I had the part number for him, but what ever. I walked out thinking how the hell am I gonna find a vin number. Walking to the truck, I thought, huh I wonder if any of these trucks have them. Sure enough, 2 of the 3 that I looked at did, the 3rd had them rotted off. So I wrote down the vin numbers and went back in. The look on his face was pretty funny when I handed him the piece of paper and said that I got them off the blue and green trucks outside. The blue one is his....

So now I have the recommended stops for the front, and the best part is that they are brand spanking new

Some things I've learned through this are:

Ford raptors have a B E A utiful bumpstop on the back that I think may work. I almost pulled the trigger and had the ford dealer order up a set.

Honda odysseys have a nice bumpstop that may work also, but I never had my own eyes on one.

Daystar part number KU09060 is discontinued, but broncograveyard.com still had some as of 10/25. I went ahead and ordered a pair and they are a nice looking piece. Not sure how easily they will go onto a shock with the bushing still in the eye, though. I will probably put them on the front of the jeep.

Airbagit.com has these: http://www.airbagit.com/Suspension-trav ... stop-3.htm
They are also a nice looking stop. They are fairly soft rubber and just about the same length as the polyurathane energy suspension ones. I ordered a set and will find a use for them. Most likely they will go on my buddy's jeep since he keeps bending leaves from massive amounts of flex, making the leaves go into negative arch. I'm running out of extra spring packs for him

I really think that there are other options out there. There is never ONLY 1 solution to a problem. The raptor stops looked very nice and to make it even better, a lot of guys are bending the frames on raptors from jumping the trucks and landing hard on the stops, and there is a ridiculously expensive air bump setup to cure the problem, so a lot of the raptor guys are taking off the stock bumpstops in favor of the air bump. The Honda odyssey guys are swapping out the stock bump stops in favor of an airbag setup for load carrying capacity. They have an MCU bumpstop, same material as the Chevy ones.

Sorry if I ruffled any feathers though this ordeal. I think the kid at the Chevy dealer needs flogged

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:59 am

_STUCKY wrote:...I really think that there are other options out there. There is never ONLY 1 solution to a problem. ...
Sorry if I ruffled any feathers though this ordeal...

I TOTALLY agree. Always keep looking for an alternative!
I just didn't want the one solution found to be sunk prematurely. I wanted it very clear that they are still available new and bucket loads of them are available used in new condition.
Educating parts people is something you must get used to. They don't get paid enough for what they do. Those that are good at it quickly move up to different jobs and we start over with the new kid.
Sounds like it may work out for you. :fingercrossed: You will know for sure when they are in your hands. Hopefully they got the right ones. With my luck the front stops would show up when I need the rear for use on the front. That is confusing even when you know exactly what you mean

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 27, 2012 2:25 pm

HenryJ wrote:I keep hearing people touch up the damage after salt with POR15 ? Is that the best thing to do?

POR-15 is good but, there is a new kid on the block. I have a request PMed to a friend on another forum and will post up the answer when I get it. I believe it is from the makers of Sharkhide.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:17 am

When I got the bumpstops, part number 15712438, they didn't come with the cups...

So I went back to get a set...

The parts guy is absolutely oblivious to what is going on and kept saying I need some bracket bolted to the frame...

He couldn't grasp the concept of them not going on the original vehicle...

I need a part number, a link to some I can buy, or a used set of cups with good studs...

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:23 pm

_STUCKY wrote:I need a part number, a link to some I can buy, or a used set of cups with good studs...

Scratch that.

I already didn't like the idea of the cups when jongo88 said his bumpstops fell off. I also didn't realize they have a washer molded into the MCU material before getting them hands on. And I also didn't get a chance to mess with it until tonight.

I was wondering all day if there was enough room to get a socket and ratchet in there from the bottom to tighten it. Well, by wheelin'/fixin' stuff buddy came to my rescue with a piece of old fuel line. He held a bolt from the bottom with the hose and tightened the nut with a ratchet wrench.

Done.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:34 am

So i noticed a lot of people switching over to the rear GM bumpstops. Do they in fact come with the cup when bought new or how do them come? Hoping they come as shown in the pic HenryJ posted. My stock ones are rotted and falling out and looking at this as the solution. Really dont want to get used living in the salt belt. Getting a set off a junk yard won't be worth the time.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Thu Sep 04, 2014 10:54 pm

They don't come with the cups. We got mine on without the cups. They haven't fallen off yet.

There's a hole in the center. Stick a bolt through it. Hold it with a piece of hose if you can't get a socket in there. Put a lock washer and a nut on it.