Ball joint replacement

[crazycarl]

Hey guys, just wanted to get some feedback before I tackle attempting to replace my ball joints.

From what I can tell, my upper ball joints are the super bad ones. The lowers have very minimal play in them, should I replace both upper and lower anyways at the same time? I'm leaning towards just doing the uppers for now because from what I've gathered I don't need to get a press to put them in, is that correct?

Is there anything else I should look/inspect/replace while doing this? Truck just crossed the 90k mile mark.

Also, the truck is a 4x4 in case that makes any difference.

[HenryJ]

Ball Joint replacement
Ball Joint replacement

[crazycarl]

Okay I feel stupid. I didn't see those. Thanks though!

[HenryJ]

No need to feel stupid We're just here to help. Punching those rivets and unloading the torsion bars are the biggest hurdles. Solve those and you are golden.
Welcome aboard

[paintballrocker]

Like HJ said, the rivets are the worst part of doing ball joints for the first time!

[crazycarl]

I just got my upper ball joints in the mail, finally time to replace. I'm dreading unloading the torsion bar more than anything. I've begun calling around every where to try and rent the tool!

[crazycarl]

After doing some more reading. If I'm just doing the upper ball joints, on a scale of 1-10, how stupid would it be for me to not unload the Torsion bar and just use my jack under the LCA?

[killian96ss]

You can easily do the top ball joints without unloading the torsion bars. Just do one side at a time. I have done the top and bottom ball joints without an unloader even though I have one. If you feel safer using an unloader, Summit sells a few different brands. I think mine is made by OTC and cost about $100.

Steve

[crazycarl]

Thanks Steve! Since I don't plan on using the tool too often I'm trying to shade away from buying it unless I absolutely have to and put that 100 dollars toward other things

[killian96ss]

Yeah, I don't blame you. I have an unloader but rarely use it. I can replace upper & lower ball joints much faster without using it and still be safe. Just like you were already thinking, do 1 side at a time with a floor jack under the lower control arm and you'll be fine.

Steve

[HenryJ]

Make sure to have a jack stand under the frame while you're working. Just in case the jack slips.

[crazycarl]

Has anyone ever had a upper ball joint stuck in the knuckle? I have. But, I got both uppers done! Steering is much smoother and no more clanking from the ball joints. Thanks for the how-to/advice. I'm excited.

[killian96ss]

Glad to hear you got r done! Nothing is stuck unless you give up! There are several ball joint tools out there like pickle forks, spreaders, pullers, etc. Sometimes it's just a matter of using the right one for the job. I have always had the best luck with the pitman arm type pullers for ball joints. It looks just a pitman arm puller, only smaller. The spreaders also work well if the distance between the upper and lower ball joint studs matches the tools length.

Keep an eye on your lower ball joints since they typically wear out 2x faster than the uppers because they are carrying the weight. The uppers do not bear any weight, they are more like followers just keeping the geometry right.

Steve

[crazycarl]

Pickle fork came in handy for them, thats for sure. And I only replaced the uppers because the lowers had no noticeable play in them. The uppers on the other hand were terrrrrrible. It's already night and day difference driving now. I figured the lowers will be easier to do now in the future after getting the stock uppers out. Fingers crossed they hold for a while!

[Horsehammerr]

Has anyone used extended shaft ball joints like they offer for Camaro's to help with Bump Steer ?

[killian96ss]

Has anyone used extended shaft ball joints like they offer for Camaro's to help with Bump Steer ?

When you lower a Corvette or Camaro the outer tie rods are no longer parallel with the ground which causes bump steer. Those extended length tie rods correct the geometry which helps reduce bump steer. I don't see how they would help on a 4wd truck that has a lot of suspension travel. With the amount of travel these trucks have your always going to have some bump steer.

Steve

[Horsehammerr]

I hadn't read anything about extended Tie-rod ends. I was wondering about the extended shaft Ball joints ? I'm looking into removing my Torsion bar suspension and going to Coil-overs on my frontend . The purpose of this is to have a good solid ride with a six inch lowered crewcab. It will also remove about 70 Lbs. from the front of the truck. Maybe not quite six inches but, I am 1 1/2 " lifted now. So more like 4 or so from stock.

[killian96ss]

I've never seen extended shaft ball joints and I don't see how they would help bump steer. Bump steer is just excessive toe in/out while the suspension compresses. In order to have little or no bump steer you have to make sure the tie rods are parallel to the ground. Ball joints of any length are not going to change the tie rod geometry.
It sounds like you have a lot of work to do. If you want a 2wd lowered CC wouldn't it be easier to just swap in an extended cab S10 frame that already has coil spring front suspension?

Steve

[HenryJ]

Swapping to the 2wd front would also reduce the scrub radius and improve steering effort. Tapered wheel bearings would simplify that too.
When you are to that point, dropping the transfercase eliminates yet another weight and problem. By that time you are better to have an extended cab on hand for the driveshaft too. Swapping the crew cab to the extended cab chassis is probably the best option.

[Horsehammerr]

Sorry, I never intend on going 2WD. Syclones and Typhoons are AWD. The main difference is AWD front Differential and Tranfercase. Several SYTY owners are converted or going to Coil-over front suspension with extreme good results. I've always been more interested in road performance than running around in the dirt. I will end up Turbo powered but I prefer the Choice of 4WD over AWD. I can see no advantage in pulling with the front on dry surfaces unless I'm racing.

[HenryJ]

Coil over front suspension on a 4x4 may be problematic and require extensive modifications. The shocks just will not fit as is.
Four link and coil over on the rear would be possible, but again not just a simple swap.

[Horsehammerr]

There seems to be a few clearance problems in the upper A-arm that very minor grinding fixes. I've also considered going to tubular uppers to fix this problem and maybe a little weight loss. We all know mods. take a lot of rechecks to perfect. I've got nothing but time.