The Marvelous Mystery Lift

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 3:51 pm

HenryJ wrote:..............I suppose loosening all the cab mounts and shifting the body back as far as possible and then retightening might be a good idea too.

I looked at this hard this past weekend when we had breaks in the weather. I might gain an 1/8" so I postponed it. I looked at Muslhed/Jeremy's trimming on a fellow TXZR2.com member's rig. I made some cuts with a dremel tool, used a BFH in a few places and got rid of any rubbing.

I then asked my alignment tech if, he could get me 1/4 inch in hgt and he dug up 1/2" and thought the front axles were not extreme with that. I also trimmed some of Jigg's additional gap guards off and have zero rub noise on some aggressive incline turns. Time will tell

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:19 pm

31x10.50 sure but I can't find anything about 33x10.50's like in brules lift lots of discussions about should, just wondering if someone has followed the steps HeneryJ's 1st post and ran 33 10.50's and if the spacers are ok or need to be wider or thinner

oh and the bilstien I found list both stock replacements and small lift ones I just want to get the correct ones. thanks

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:43 am

BILSTEIN: Say "BilstEEn" , in German the long vowel is first in spelling. Lesson over. The Marvelous Mystery Lift requires only stock size replacement shocks. There is no suspension lift, only Torsion Bar adjustment and Body Lift with rear shackles short enough to allow stock shock length. The major problem with 10.5 tires is the width causing rub on frame in turns at rear inside of front wheels. You may want to put 1 1/4" spacers on rear wheels to bring them out to same width as front wheels,their 2 1/2" wider apart then the rear. The spacers are only good for appearance and totaly safe. Besides Brule uses 33/ 9.5 /15 Bridgestone TA KO on stock 7" ZR5 wheels that are 6" back space. I've got 8" x 15" with 3 3/4" back space. No inside rub problems there.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:56 am

Horsehammerr wrote:...............Besides Brule uses 33/ 9.5 /15 Bridgestone TA KO.................

BFG AT KOs. I would have gone with them but, tired of waiting on them. The 10.50s are ok, just heavier and probably cuts down on my mpg.

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:48 pm

i have 10.50s and they are just fine. they rub at full lock but i've been through some thick sh!t with em and i'm still getting along just fine

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 4:56 pm

How do those Skidz Flares hold up? Will they crack if you're too rough with them (while they're on the vehicle)?

If so, do you think filling the inside with marine buoyancy foam or something of the sort would eliminate that problem?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 5:01 pm

Mine are ok but, I haven't caught a tree with them. I shattered one in my own driveway hitting my heep. They are brittle.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:14 pm

f9k9 wrote:They are brittle.

Will filling them with something help? Or is that a long-shot?

I plan on buying a set of Skidz Flares for a hefty chunk of change, so I want to protect my investment!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:50 am

I really don't think filling them with anything would help. You just need to make sure that you fit them flush with the body. That would prevent a branch from getting in there and ripping them off. You just need to be careful with them. I found myself aiming my outside mirrors at my rear flares and spending much time keeping them out of trees and rocks on tight trails.

PonyKiller · Post by **PonyKiller** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 2:58 pm

I just called and ordered my springs from Boise Spring Works today. Nice people there.

Someone may want to change the tech article and stuff to take off Mike G as the contact point, as I was told he passed away about a year ago. Russ is still there, he's the one that helped me.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:01 pm

Sorry to hear about Mike. He was indeed an artist with steel.
I'll update the page with Russ' name.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 7:42 pm

Could someone please fix some pictures or add new one?

I'd like to see a side shot, a front shot, a side by side with a stock truck shot, shot of the fender cuts, and some tires stuffed shots. Preferably with 33s. There really are not many pictures floating around...

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Mar 20, 2012 8:26 pm

Look the thread over again. I fixed the links and a few pictures that we still had. The rest were lost with our old forum. Check out the readers rides thread for pictures of MML rigs. Quite a few in there.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 8:20 am

Thank you.

The only one I could find pics with 33s was Jedthrocornpone. This project may just get done before anything else major happens to the jeep or k5s.... Corn prices need to go up...

Toyo now makes the open country mt in 33x10.5. They weight 57.3 lbs. I have really liked the 35x13.5s on the 91

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:10 am

My truck, F9K9, jedthrocornpone are there. We are sort of on the tail end of an era, so members are fading.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Apr 12, 2012 6:24 pm

HenryJ wrote:My truck, F9K9, jedthrocornpone are there. We are sort of on the tail end of an era, so members are fading.

Scmelton · Post by **Scmelton** » Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:31 pm

Man those are some really cool pics of two bada$$ CC's! I found a picture of my truck in the reader rides thread, man I miss that truck, I also saw some really cool crews that I had never seen in that thread.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Mon May 14, 2012 8:36 pm

I am new to the S10 world....I have done a f150 before, just cause my wife is a ford lover....

Anyway. I have been ready a lot on this site about what lift to do, what tires to run and so on. I am considering the MML life since it seems to work and is not 6" tall and cost 2200 bucks. My question is since the skidz cuts-out fenders are no longer available is there to run 33's with the stock flares? or Can you make the cuts to the stock flares?

Thanks
Eric aka Silentmerx

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue May 15, 2012 4:44 am

You can make the cuts to the ZR5 flares. It has been done successfully. Was it Fallvitals truck? I think someone will speak up soon.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue May 15, 2012 5:53 am

Silentmerx wrote:I am new to the S10 world....I have done a f150 before, just cause my wife is a ford lover....

Anyway. I have been ready a lot on this site about what lift to do, what tires to run and so on. I am considering the MML life since it seems to work and is not 6" tall and cost 2200 bucks. My question is since the skidz cuts-out fenders are no longer available is there to run 33's with the stock flares? or Can you make the cuts to the stock flares?

Thanks
Eric aka Silentmerx

Cutting the stock ZR5 flares to match the Skidz cuts to the wheel wells is really a simple project. I did mine on my band saw with very good results. I matched the flare cuts to the Skidz-cut dimensions , filed the saw cuts smooth, lapped the outer surface over the mounting surface and pop riveted the laps every three inches. I did remove all the stock flare mounting hardware since they were very rust damaged and simply used selftapping stainless steel round head screws to attach my flares through the underside flare edge into the wheel well. Good idea to apply a dab of clear silicon caulk to screws through holes to seal steel and slow rust to wheel well edges. There is a large picture of my truck with this all done somewhere in these pages ? I'll look.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Tue May 15, 2012 10:24 am

Thanks HenryJ and Horsehammerr.

So to understand...do the cuts on the trucks, then match up the fender to those cuts? I appreciate all the help guys.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu May 17, 2012 9:14 am

Silentmerx wrote:Thanks HenryJ and Horsehammerr.

So to understand...do the cuts on the trucks, then match up the fender to those cuts? I appreciate all the help guys.

YES !! EXACTLY !! The whole job took me about two days of slow cruise. Don't be afraid.

I used my trusty Sawsall on the fender cuts , mines a variable speed, so just went slow and easy with a very fine tooth blade.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Thu May 17, 2012 2:24 pm

Horsehammerr,

Ok, Thanks

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Tue May 29, 2012 5:50 pm

So back and forth with what to do....Options are 2" BL with 2" rear shackles and TB crank then run 31x10.5x15. But now looking at the MML again since I have the the shackles, will do tb crank and the BL here tomorrow. I am planning to replace shocks in next couple of months. Also 33x10.5x15 are about 23 bucks more then the 31". So I guess my question is all I have to do is the "skid cuts" to get the 33's to work?

Thanks

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue May 29, 2012 7:32 pm

I had to to get 31's to work... Does that help??? lol

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue May 29, 2012 7:38 pm

I copyed this from my other forum... http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachme ... 1336675660
can you tell I did the skid cuts???

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Tue May 29, 2012 8:24 pm

Jongo88 wrote:I copyed this from my other forum... http://www.s10planet.com/forum/attachme ... 1336675660
can you tell I did the skid cuts???

Still looks like you have room....

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue May 29, 2012 8:41 pm

I do with the cuts... I can go anywhere with no rub now... Without the cuts the tires would not only rub but would hit the back of the fenders.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Tue May 29, 2012 8:46 pm

So with the 2" BL with 2" rear shackles and TB crank and the "cuts" I should be able to run the 31's or the 33's then. I just want to make sure since I am doing it this weekend and Have to order the tires by tomorrow to get by this weekend.

Edit: from the photo you running flairs?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue May 29, 2012 9:26 pm

No flairs...
I have no idea about the 33's.
I myself would not go bigger than 31's. I drive a lot and I know that the 33's would kill my gas millage...
I do know if you run the 33's you will have to do the skid cuts in the back too. With the 31's you only need them in the front.
I hope this helps you out...

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Tue May 29, 2012 10:41 pm

Jongo88

Thanks for your help. Right now I don't do a lot of driving just to take me kid to school and go hunting. The 33's I am looking at are really 32.8" and the 31's are 31.2" So 1.6" would be that big of a deal? If I am going to do the cuts for the front, might as well do them for the rear.

Also if HenryJ (or anyone else) sees this should I be good with no getting new shocks right away and not running the spacers right away or at all?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed May 30, 2012 4:43 am

Shocks are a very good investment. The stock shocks are terrible. You will be very happy when you install some good shocks. If you must wait for shocks, or spacers, no big deal. Personally I would do the shocks and add rear spacers before the lift or bigger tires. Add the pieces as you can afford them.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Wed May 30, 2012 8:19 am

After looking at somethings...I should now be able to bump the shocks up to next week. The BL will show up today and the shackles on Friday. So this weekend looks to be busy working on the CC. So I was also looking at doing the tires Saturday or Monday since mostly everything will be done. I just can't rack my head to go with the 31's or the 33's. I have read so much on the MML and then fallvitals build. I just don't want to do the 33's and they don't work for what I was hoping for and can't take them back. I do like the look of the 33's, but the 31's seem to be more practical.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Wed May 30, 2012 8:32 am

I did the 31's for the same reasons... You will be happy as I am.
My truck handles like stock it mite be better. I can go through ditches drive over stuff crossways and never have the tires rub in anyway.
I'm on my second set of tires now and if I thought I needed bigger I would of got them this time...

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Wed May 30, 2012 9:02 am

Jongo, did you use spacers in the rear with the 31's and do you know what the "true" number is on your tires?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed May 30, 2012 9:39 am

I have a couple things to add to this...

When it comes to tire sizes, with the appropriate sizes of 31 and 33, the 33 is not going to need ~2 more inches of clearance than the 31. It will only ~1 because it's a circle. Yes it is roughly 2 inches taller, but from the center it will only be roughly 1 inch in all directions. (I think I could explain that better with out typing)

A few weeks ago I went to the local o'rielly's to pickup the bilstein shocks. I was told they cannot get them. So i asked what the travel was on them with the thinking I would just get a different brand. They couldn't look the travel on them up, sooooooo........ I didn't get shocks.

What do YOU want to do with YOUR truck? If you are going for the look, 33s. If you are going for ground clearance for off road, 33s (tires are the ONLY way to get ground clearance, no other way to get more clearance under the differentials, none.) If you are just cruising around on pavement, 31s.

With all that being said, I probably won't do 33s when I finally get around to it, I'll do 31s. My reasoning is I won't be taking my cc off road, through the trees, through the creek, over and under and back again (much). That's what the YJ and the MJ and the K5s are for. I will mainly be doing it for snow and looks.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Wed May 30, 2012 10:32 am

All my info is in my sig..
I started off by getting new tires and 1.5 inch T bar tweek and shackles. Then I bought shocks and spacers for the back. Then I had to do the skid cut outs. Then came the body lift. Then I bought 2.5 spacers for the back and moved the 1.25 to the front.
I seems for every mod you have to do more mods for the first mod to work..lol But you don't have to do everything at once..
The way my trucks sits now there is no rub at any angle. I do go off roading. Not so much mud but trails and making my own trails... I have to go through ditchs and over dead trees that have fallin over the trail.
I climb hills too get where I want to go.
I have the 373 gears so I feel like the tire size didnot kill me.
If I had 342's I think the 31's would give it a work out.
I still get about 17 mpg all around driving but if I stay city driving it's about 14.5.
I bet with the 33's the would really kill the mpg...

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Wed May 30, 2012 10:39 am

_Stucky, I like the look of the 33s. I want more ground clearance, I do pavement drive about 70-75% and the rest off road to go hunting. I don't do any krawling. But we do get like 20-30 inches of snow a year....unless last year were we got 27 inches in a week. Then I didn't have the truck, but my civic..but now have the truck.

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Wed May 30, 2012 10:46 am

Jongo, Do you think that doing the TB crank and shackles along with the BL I might be able to get away with the 31's without the skid cuts?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Wed May 30, 2012 10:54 am

You know that I that I try to think back I don't really remember if I did the cuts before or after the bl.
But I think I did them before because I was tryin to see if I could get away without the bl...

Silentmerx · Post by **Silentmerx** » Wed May 30, 2012 12:26 pm

Ok, so I think I will run 31's with the MML, if I don't like them...I'll change them after the 31's

Thanks for all the help guys!

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:37 pm

Just a FYI. I have just completed the on my 2005 blazer. Thanks to everyone that has made contributions to this thread.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 4:53 am

I have seen it, but others have not. How about a pic

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Wed Jun 06, 2012 5:34 pm

Unfortunately my computer is broken right now and I am using the hell out of my phone. I don't think resizing a pic is with in my capabilities right now. Feel free to steal one if you want.

I also have something to add. I used Z28 camaro rims witch have a back spacing of aprox. 4.25" so I only have spacers on the rear. Turning radius is slightly worse than with my 31's on stock rims. I can feel the KM2 lugs on the frame. (Steering stops haven't been built up yet.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:43 pm

I have a computer again. Let's try this out.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:53 am

Beautiful

kermit · Post by **kermit** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:45 pm

I like it!

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:33 pm

Thanks a bunch gents!

This pic just showed up from the week end;

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 4:54 am

Nice articulation shot

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:35 pm

That pic is with the swaybar still connected. I did make discos but with flex like that I don't use them very much.

Sorry for the thread jack.

Back on topic.

On my blazer to mimic the MML this is what I did.

Add 2 long thin leaf springs to each rear pack - Free from a buddy
Added longer shackles (2" c to c) - Made myself maybe $10 in materials
Torsion bar crank - $70 for alignment
2" PA body lift - $350ish in Canada
Front fender trimming - A sawsall blade and some mig wire
Rear fender trimming (only behind the rear tire) - Free
33x10.5x15 KM2's (only 4) - $1150 in Canada (got a free used spare from a buddy)
7 Z28 Camaro rims - $300 + two cans of spray paint and some elbow grease

I will edit later if anything else comes to mind. Thanks again HJ for the R & D that we have all used.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:00 pm

What is the two long leaf springs from?

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:10 pm

I wish I could answer that. From what I was told they were from a custom YJ pack. They were only 1/4" thick and fairly soft. I got 2" of lift and only a slightly firmer ride.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 10:46 pm

crewcabs10 · Post by **crewcabs10** » Mon Sep 16, 2013 11:01 am

I'm just res-erecting threads everywhere... I'm running 33x12.5's.

Too bad I couldn't hop on the MML train earlier. I wish I was parked next to Brule and F9K9 in that sweet pic of the CC's. I may have fit in nicely...Cowl hood and all.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Sep 16, 2013 2:53 pm

Saweet 'noma

crewcabs10 · Post by **crewcabs10** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 4:05 am

Thanks, everyone has faded out...what gives? CC's might be 9-12 years old but I still think they are awesome. I mean, the ZR5's are a three year only truck, and having leather makes it a little more "rare". I would think, maybe in 10-15 years they would be harder to find, like a Nissan 300zx or a Sy/Ty. In the end, I know, it's only an S10. Does anyone have production numbers on these trucks?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:06 am

The first year production was limited to sales in the northwest. Many GM factory conversions preceded those. There was a thread on production numbers, but I do not recall there ever was an answer.

Over a dozen years here is a Looong time. Many have come and gone. We are now on a new generation of truck owners. The need for this forum seems to come and go, just like the members.

LoneWolf04 · Post by **LoneWolf04** » Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:08 am

Well if things go the way as planned ill be keeping mine for the next 10+ years. Only need to get the drivers side cab corner and back half of the rocker fixed where it started rusting on me. I check in here and there when doing mods, yet I think most of them I'm planning on doing have been completed.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:10 pm

F9K9 wrote:.....................

One of my favorite pics.....

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:37 pm

Nine out of ten of those wheels came from Kentucky

Love that pic too

MCbowhunter · Post by **MCbowhunter** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 5:44 pm

Hey gang
I'm new to registering on the site

but have followed for a long time and have had my '04 CC since 2006.
This site has helped keep my sanity when my own skills and experience were not enough.
So for this being my first, just wanna say THANKS!

Now back to the main reason. I have been wanting to lift my truck for many years and reasons.
What size torsion keys did you use HenryJ? If I missed it somewhere please direct me.

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 6:35 pm

MCbowhunter wrote:...
What size torsion keys did you use HenryJ? If I missed it somewhere please direct me.

Stock keys. You did not miss them. The stock s-series keys will adjust beyond the range of the suspension components already. I adjust to the maximum Z height dimension. Then add the fullsize bump stops and call it good.

DannyBFresco · Post by **DannyBFresco** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 1:37 pm

4WheelParts has the PA body lift for $200, just an FYI.

P.S. this is great info. I just got my CC about a month ago and was shocked at the limited lift options and the high prices...this restored my faith in my truck's potential (within my budget)

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 1:50 pm

DannyBFresco wrote:4WheelParts has the PA body lift for $200, just an FYI.

P.S. this is great info. I just got my CC about a month ago and was shocked at the limited lift options and the high prices...this restored my faith in my truck's potential (within my budget)

They really can be an AWESOME vehicle. Welcome aboard

DannyBFresco · Post by **DannyBFresco** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:22 pm

HenryJ wrote:
DannyBFresco wrote:4WheelParts has the PA body lift for $200, just an FYI.

P.S. this is great info. I just got my CC about a month ago and was shocked at the limited lift options and the high prices...this restored my faith in my truck's potential (within my budget)
They really can be an AWESOME vehicle. Welcome aboard

Thanks! Glad to be aboard. Already started ordering parts lol

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 4:55 pm

Update...........the BF Goodrich T/A 33x10.50s are still alive and well. I started pricing them awhile back. The best online deal that I could find was from Tire Rack. By the time I figured up shipping, taxes and installation by one of their closest certified installers, (55 miles away) it came to $933 for 4 tires.

The last time that I ordered online tuned out to be a pure nightmare!! Local dealers would not honor the BFG warranty for new out of round tires that were purchased elsewhere. Long story short, I went to my local dealers armed with a "Bottom Line" but, didn't give them the price. At the first (and only) stop, I was told that they were never made in that size. I told the manager and the owner to walk outside and tell me that after they looked at my tires. Afterwards, I got a price of $800.33 out the door.

I wouldn't go wider than 10.50s especially, after the three point turns and 1000' drop offs that I experienced in Moab, with Brule. My turning radius was already way too limited for my comfort zone and any less wouldn't do for me.

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:22 am

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... permPage=1
no body lift yet... orange keys on my stock purple bars bolts arent even half way ran in... just 2 turns over where they were marked stock on with my purple keys. shackles in the back.. it rubs the rear fender flare if i get into deep ruts clears the front fine no cutting done to the actual fender just tapped the fender well in some did have to trim the plastic air dam and they do rub the frame when i make real sharp turns they are 33/12.5/15's next time i'm gonna get the 10.5s gotta wear these out first... lol they aint cheap

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 12:35 pm

Need to look into making SKIDZ Flare Cuts or your going to tear up your tires and/or fenders. Might check out adapter spacers to move your wheels out enough to clear the frame rub and match the width of the front to the rear. you know the front span is 2.5" wider than the rear ?

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 2:20 pm

thanks, no i just thought it was like 1 inch difference per side... so if i put a 1.25 spacer on the front to help clear the frame do i need a 2.5 on each side of the rear to make it equal?? also do they still make the skidz flares i thought i heard that they quit making them..i dont really want to cut the truck if i cant hide the cuts i cant bottom the suspension out enough even crossing deep ditches at an angle to make the tires hit the top of the fenderwell on the front..and in the back it starts rubbing about 1-2 inches above the bottom most flare screw on the back side of the wheelwell maybe since i clear the 33's pretty good without the bodylift... maybe the body lift would give me enough clearance in the back... if all else fails i'll trim it... but before i cut it i'd get the diff drop and a-arms from roughcountry crank the keys up more and put some add a leafs to go with my shackles in the back with a body lift... but if i can find flares to cover up the cuts i'll feel more at ease about cutting it thanks again for the info

DannyBFresco · Post by **DannyBFresco** » Wed Mar 12, 2014 8:16 pm

Looks sweet dude!

DannyBFresco · Post by **DannyBFresco** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:59 pm

Hartleybl wrote:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... permPage=1
no body lift yet... orange keys on my stock purple bars bolts arent even half way ran in... just 2 turns over where they were marked stock on with my purple keys. shackles in the back.. it rubs the rear fender flare if i get into deep ruts clears the front fine no cutting done to the actual fender just tapped the fender well in some did have to trim the plastic air dam and they do rub the frame when i make real sharp turns they are 33/12.5/15's next time i'm gonna get the 10.5s gotta wear these out first... lol they aint cheap

So you got those to fit with just a tb crank and shackles??

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:40 pm

yes they did fit and i drove around for a couple of weeks like that i had to trim the plastic air dam before i left the tire store... but yes t-bar crank and shackles they did rub when i hit a bump hard with my wheels turned they would catch the corner of the fender they still rub the frame but they are 12.5 wide on factory wheels yesterday i broke down and did the skidz flares cuts for the front (got some mud flaps from autoparts store to cover the cuts.. if your careful you can barely tell they were even cut) and now i cant make it rub even with the sway bar unhooked i plan on doing the cuts on the rear fenderwells as of right now they dont rub in moderate articulation but if i go thru some deep rough stuff they catch about half way up the wheelwell but yes t-bar crank and shackles

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 8:48 pm

if i had it to do over i wouldnt go with the 12.5 inch wide tires and next time i'm going with 10.5's still debating spacers because i used to have a set of adapters on a std cab 2wd with fwd offset wheels on it and the adapter cracked..hitting a hard bump... cracked the wheel 2.. 205/40/17's lol came off a cavalier

DannyBFresco · Post by **DannyBFresco** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:16 pm

Hartleybl wrote:yes they did fit and i drove around for a couple of weeks like that i had to trim the plastic air dam before i left the tire store... but yes t-bar crank and shackles they did rub when i hit a bump hard with my wheels turned they would catch the corner of the fender they still rub the frame but they are 12.5 wide on factory wheels yesterday i broke down and did the skidz flares cuts for the front (got some mud flaps from autoparts store to cover the cuts.. if your careful you can barely tell they were even cut) and now i cant make it rub even with the sway bar unhooked i plan on doing the cuts on the rear fenderwells as of right now they dont rub in moderate articulation but if i go thru some deep rough stuff they catch about half way up the wheelwell but yes t-bar crank and shackles

Yeah I wouldn't mind doing the cuts...did some cutting on my last truck too

Hartleybl · Post by **Hartleybl** » Tue Mar 25, 2014 9:24 pm

i went to the how-to section on this forum and followed it step by step turned out nice i could have just took a little body filler/sanded it down ect ect and hid the edge of where the cuts ended but it needs the mudflaps anyways so i just painted the baremetal and went ahead and re-blacked out my fenderwells and frame rails and put the mudflaps on it... i'll take some pics tomarrow