A few mods done.

[zjrebel]

So I bought my 01 CC as stock as could be and didn't care for the look as everything I own I lift even my trailer I tow my golf cart on . So lets get down to it. I ordered the 1-3" torsion bar keys and 2" shackles for the rear and ran it that way for a couple months w/ stock tires while out of town working to let everything settle in. Today I installed 31X10.5/15 Kelly Safari TSR's. Added a 102" whip for the future CB. I have also upgraded to the ZR2 rearend as well so no spacers in the rear. I have a little rub on the frame at full lock but that's it. Also tinted the front windows to match the rear for that hot Florida sun.

[killian96ss]

Looks good! Be careful with those torsion bar keys since they allow you to adjust way past the recommended Z height specs which accelerates ball joint wear and causes CV axle problems. The factory t-bar keys are already capable of going beyond this limit which is why we don't recommend using them. You'll be fine as long as you stay within the Z height specs.

You can eliminate most if not all the front frame rub by adding material (welding) to the factory steering stops located at the rear of each front lower control arm.

Steve

[zjrebel]

I'm working on a way to drop the front axle and looking for upgraded ball joints as I type. I'm also ordering spacers for the front to help with the tire rub. Thank you for the advice.

[killian96ss]

Most of the good suspension lift kits have drop brackets for the front diff. I wonder if you could just order the brackets from one of them, or just use the design and make your own? MOOG problem solver ball joints are pretty good and what I use on just about everything, however recently I've started using Raybestos Professional Grade ball joints since they appear to have a better designed joint and they have nice bonded blue polyurethane boots that should last longer than rubber boots. I just replaced a set of MOOG lower BJ's on my 88 S10 and was a bit disappointed how much they had loosened up and the boots were trashed after only 50k miles.

Steve

[Jongo88]

I just replace my front end parts one time... I stay away from the cheep store bought stuff.
Just get the stuff that will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 1,000,000 (one million) miles.
My old Blazer has 200,000 on the ball joints and are still like new.
My Crew has 80,000 and still like new.
If you like working on your truck replacing the same stuff over and over buy the stuff from your local store.
Just my 2 cents..

[Horsehammerr]

I just replace my front end parts one time... I stay away from the cheep store bought stuff.
Just get the stuff that will be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 1,000,000 (one million) miles.
My old Blazer has 200,000 on the ball joints and are still like new.
My Crew has 80,000 and still like new.
If you like working on your truck replacing the same stuff over and over buy the stuff from your local store.
Just my 2 cents..

Just wonder what brand of ball joints you consider "million mile" ?

[Jongo88]

They used to be Power Permormance but they are now proforged.
http://www.proforged.com/

[JaVeRo]

The last ball joints I bought were XRF. Too early to tell how they hold up but I like the boot much better than the moog.

http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm

James

After looking at the proforged website, they may actually be the same ball joint. The XRF also claim a million mile warranty and the boot looks the same.

[Serge PETIT]

The last ball joints I bought were XRF. Too early to tell how they hold up but I like the boot much better than the moog.

http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm

James

After looking at the proforged website, they may actually be the same ball joint. The XRF also claim a million mile warranty and the boot looks the same.

Are these ball joints bolt on or are some modifications necessary ?

[Jongo88]

They are an exact replacement.. Just built the right way..

[Serge PETIT]

Thanks , I hope that I will be able to find a way to import these to France when necessary .........

[F9K9]

I know that we are talking about apples and oranges here but, the XRF BJs were much heralded in the jeep world 1-2 years ago. Spicers did rule there and is still the number one choice. A new kid on the scene is 250% more in price but, no long term reports in yet. Reports (that I trust) have XRFs failing in under 4K but, that is under extreme situations. I installed XRFs on mine but, wish I had done the Spicers, at this point.

[Horsehammerr]

Unable to locate Spicers for CC's

[z28]

sorry to get off the ball joint topic. zjrebel, could you post a pic of how you mounted your 102"? Ive been looking for a way to mount mine but cant seem to find a way a like. Just lookin for some ideas.

[zjrebel]

wow I didn't get a notification about your post. I'll get a pic in the next day or 2.

[z28]

thanks that would be great. i havnt been able to come up with a mount i think is sturdy enough, or a place to put it where its not slapin around between the cab and the bed.

[mars2878]

wow I didn't get a notification about your post. I'll get a pic in the next day or 2.

any pics yet??

[JaVeRo]

The last ball joints I bought were XRF. Too early to tell how they hold up but I like the boot much better than the moog.

http://www.xrfchassis.com/parts-balljoints.htm

James

After a couple of years with the XRF ball joints, my recommendation would be anything except XRF. The top ball joints seem to do ok. The bottom ball joints will split the boot in 6 months. The idler arms are pure junk, 15k max miles on the mail route.

James