A Slight Modification

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 4:18 pm

EDIT: Antirock sway bar installed, 2" coil spacers front, added leaf springs to rear (3" lift), rear Isuzu Dana 44 installed, emergency brake cables installed, adjustable trac bar installed.

Painted bow tie and grille. New headlights and turn signals.

Some of you may have noticed that I haven't been active around here for a while. Well, I've been pretty busy.

Didn't do it myself of course, but you can say I "oversaw" its construction. The axles are Dana 44's from a 1988 Grand Wagoneer - rear converted to disc brake. Uses a BDS 4-link long arm kit for an XJ.

I will answer any questions as best as I can despite not having done the work myself. There are some kinks that need to be worked out, but overall it turned out great. Goodbye torsion bars, goodbye front-end sag.

Mike

EDIT Pictures Added

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:10 pm

Looks REALLY good. Now if you can resist the urge to go too big with the tires... It looks very capable now. Congrats!

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:01 pm

Thanks, HJ!

Unfortunately if I put on 35" tires, I may not be able to fit in my garage. I'm cutting it close. Call me crazy, but I'd rather keep my CB whips than put 35's on. I don't wheel it enough to make them worth it. It's possible I will go 33x10.5, though.

When ya' gonna SAS the Avalanche?

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Jul 01, 2011 8:31 pm

14x4 wrote:... It's possible I will go 33x10.5, though.

That would be just right. Availability is much better and that will be a very good combination.

When ya' gonna SAS the Avalanche?

Not likely. I am more of a Baja / Dakar terrain driver. IFS is the suspension of choice there.
I will edge into a bit rougher terrain, but I think I have found my "happy place" for this truck.

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:29 pm

i vote 33x12.5 to fill int he width of the flares. good lookin build. geuss youve been researching on the sfa section of s10forum?

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 1:57 pm

I guess you have been busy! That looks awesome!

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 3:57 pm

Thanks guys!

paintballrocker wrote:i vote 33x12.5 to fill int he width of the flares.

33x12.5 is a bit too wide for my tastes. I much prefer the look of tall, narrow tires. Even if I go 33x10.5, I still might throw on some spacers in the rear.

paintballrocker wrote:geuss youve been researching on the sfa section of s10forum?

I've read more than I can remember. I had the "professionals" do the swap for me, but it certainly helps to know what is going on.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 4:49 pm

Nice looking truck, and it's very capable now! Good job!

Steve

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sat Jul 02, 2011 8:12 pm

If that is a slight mod., I would love to see what you would call a large mod.

Who were the "professionals"? Looks so clean (like always), keep up the awesome work!

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Jul 03, 2011 10:48 am

Thanks for the compliments, guys.

blaz wrote:If that is a slight mod., I would love to see what you would call a large mod. Who were the "professionals"?

I was just being sarcastic with the "slight" part.

I took my truck to an off-road shop. The head mechanic there does solid axle swaps regularly.

I will have more pictures and information later on. Right now I am in the troubleshooting phase.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Jul 04, 2011 6:57 am

very nice.

hootz · Post by **hootz** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:14 pm

A great looking mod; I spotted the solid axles right away. Definitely a permanent and long term lift solution for the S10.

HARv · Post by **HARv** » Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:04 pm

How's she running? What "issues" were you having? I'm considering basing mine off a similar kit/axles. That's one of the cleanest swaps i've seen. It almost looks like it came from the factory that way. Could you get more pictures of the suspension?

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Fri Aug 12, 2011 5:45 am

how did you connect your ebrake? if you connected it at all

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sat Aug 13, 2011 4:30 pm

HARv wrote:How's she running? What "issues" were you having? I'm considering basing mine off a similar kit/axles. That's one of the cleanest swaps i've seen. It almost looks like it came from the factory that way. Could you get more pictures of the suspension?

I will post more pictures in the coming weeks. Some issues are minor while others frighten me. I need a sway bar which isn't a big deal. Also my steering is a bit loose. But what really concerns me is that, because of the 4.56 gears, I can't go past 65-70 mph. When I get to that speed, my truck will not allow me to accelerate anymore. In fact, it will slow down until about 50 mph in which I can accelerate again.

I figured I would ask all the guys on S-10forum about speed problem because they've all done swaps. So far I haven't gotten a definitive answer. It's strange because no one seems to be having this same problem. I am the only person that is facing this issue. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f221/acce ... es-473427/

I am hoping that once my pcm is programmed, it will correct the issue. My Hypertech programmer will not work because my ABS and e-brake light are constantly on now. I will have to get it programmed at a Chevy dealership.

paintballrocker wrote:how did you connect your ebrake? if you connected it at all

No e-brake, no ABS.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:37 am

I Think your speed is limited by RPM's. With 4.56 gears your RPM's are way up and the speed limiter function in our co mputer simply shuts down the fuel pump. The dealer can't do anything about that. They are not allowed to do ANY custom programing, not even for tire size. I tried on that one for adjusting my speedometer. they said they are limited to factory computer specs. Also told me they would not work on modified vehicles.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:30 pm

Bigger tires!

I think 35's with 4.56 gears would help.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:26 pm

One more reason I like my Wait4meperformance computer!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:51 pm

Really looks good. Nice choice on the axles. I am confused my your speed issue. Is your speedo calibrated or are you using a GPS? I have 5.13s in the heep and I have no issues cruising at 75 mph without hitting any limiter.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:26 pm

blaz wrote:Bigger tires! I think 35's with 4.56 gears would help.

I'm thinking about it. But even with 33's, this shouldn't be happening.

roadrunner wrote:One more reason I like my Wait4meperformance computer!

I would use my Hypertech programmer but it throws a trouble code because of my e-brake and ABS light. Do you send your pcm to Wait4meperformance?

F9K9 wrote:Really looks good. Nice choice on the axles. I am confused my your speed issue. Is your speedo calibrated or are you using a GPS? I have 5.13s in the heep and I have no issues cruising at 75 mph without hitting any limiter.

Thanks Reed. According to my GPS, my speedometer is only a few MPH off. Also, my RPM's are not ridiculously high right before it slows me down.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:46 pm

Maybe time to check the fuel pump?

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:13 pm

When I got my computer I opted to buy a used reprogrammed one so I would not have down time while waiting for the round trip on the OE unit. After install of performance unit crank position relearn must be done or random mis-fire codes will keep setting. Not difficult. Any competent mechanic with a snap-on or similar scanner can do it. Just make sure they don't do re-flash as that would wipe out the performance settings in the unit.

Along the lines of HJ's post, time for a new fuel filter?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:24 pm

roadrunner wrote:...........Along the lines of HJ's post, time for a new fuel filter?

Another valid point!! I was ready to take a rig to a tranny shop because of shifting and faltering issues. A fuel filter was all it needed.

Do you have any plans for the e-brake situation? Whether you wheel it or not, I would think that you need to address the situation. You mentioned rear discs, did they come with the e-brake capability?

Tires? I think that I would stick with 33s if, you can even come close to stuffing them now. Unless your shop stretched everything forward you will not be able to keep them out of your firewall unless you have seriously limited your front axle's up travel.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 10:25 am

HenryJ wrote:Maybe time to check the fuel pump?

Something to be considered. Thanks.

roadrunner wrote:Along the lines of HJ's post, time for a new fuel filter?

I will replace that as soon as possible.

F9K9 wrote:Do you have any plans for the e-brake situation? Whether you wheel it or not, I would think that you need to address the situation. You mentioned rear discs, did they come with the e-brake capability?

No plans for the e-brake right now. The rear did not come with the capability. I was told I would need special hubs.

F9K9 wrote:Tires? I think that I would stick with 33s if, you can even come close to stuffing them now. Unless your shop stretched everything forward you will not be able to keep them out of your firewall unless you have seriously limited your front axle's up travel.

I'm pretty sure I have plenty of room for 35" tires! Of course I'd need wider wheels.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Aug 15, 2011 3:29 pm

14x4 wrote:
F9K9 wrote:Tires? I think that I would stick with 33s if, you can even come close to stuffing them now. Unless your shop stretched everything forward you will not be able to keep them out of your firewall unless you have seriously limited your front axle's up travel.
I'm pretty sure I have plenty of room for 35" tires! Of course I'd need wider wheels.

I hope you're right but, I'll be surprised if, you pull it off. What width rims are on there now? Unless you get silly with the width of the 35's, 8" wide rims will do well aired down to 10-12 psi.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:23 pm

F9K9 wrote:I hope you're right but, I'll be surprised if, you pull it off. What width rims are on there now? Unless you get silly with the width of the 35's, 8" wide rims will do well aired down to 10-12 psi.

My rims are 8" wide now. If I get 10" wide rims with the same backspacing, it'll push the wheels out two inches. I thought it was kind of a bad idea to put 12.5" wide tires on an 8" wide rim. Am I wrong?

Why don't you think I have enough room? Every person who has looked at my truck says "you need 35's" lol. I've had seasoned veterans of wheeling look at my truck and find no problem with fitting 35" tires.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 3:52 pm

Personally, I hope that you can resist the urge to go bigger. That has been the downfall of more than one.
A pair of spacers on the back to even things up a bit and I'd leave it alone. Work on fine tuning it. It looks great "as-is".

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:15 pm

HenryJ wrote:That has been the downfall of more than one.

In what way? Breaking parts?

Also, I can't really find a good source for spacers for the 6x5.5 lug pattern.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 4:26 pm

14x4 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:That has been the downfall of more than one.
In what way? Breaking parts?

Death wobble, ill handling, PITA to drive, first 35, then bigger. Most sold or traded off the rig soon after. I don't know all the reasons they get rid of the truck soon after all the mods. It just seems to happen.
Riding on 33's you have enough tire to do plenty. Better mileage with less rotating mass. The tires you have will air down and float over the terrain.

I can't really find a good source for spacers for the 6x5.5 lug pattern.

cjbargains on ebay has spacers. $80 pair.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:15 pm

HenryJ wrote:Death wobble, ill handling, PITA to drive, first 35, then bigger. Most sold or traded off the rig soon after. I don't know all the reasons they get rid of the truck soon after all the mods. It just seems to happen.
Riding on 33's you have enough tire to do plenty. Better mileage with less rotating mass. The tires you have will air down and float over the terrain.

I see. Well, Brule, your opinion is pretty valuable in my book. Same with Reeds. If you guys really don't think it's a wise decision, I probably won't do it.

HenryJ wrote:cjbargains on ebay has spacers. $80 pair.

Thanks a lot! I'm going to buy them right now.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:23 pm

I could see the next set of tires being 33x10.5-15 since they are readily available. You should have room for a wider tire and those don't add too much weight or rolling mass. Wear those out first. That will tell you lots. Maybe a taller tire is a better answer? Maybe a wider tire is the "stuff". Experience and driving skill will tell you more.

You will like those spacers. I bought the $70 1.5" spacers from them for the Avalanche.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Aug 17, 2011 5:44 pm

HenryJ wrote:I could see the next set of tires being 33x10.5-15 since they are readily available. You should have room for a wider tire and those don't add too much weight or rolling mass. Wear those out first. That will tell you lots. Maybe a taller tire is a better answer? Maybe a wider tire is the "stuff". Experience and driving skill will tell you more.

It seems like those AT's will never wear out! They look like they have the same amount of tread as when I bought them.

HenryJ wrote:You will like those spacers. I bought the $70 1.5" spacers from them for the Avalanche.

I appreciate the link. I just bought them. I'm not going to put them on until I swap out my rear axle, though. Those rear Dana 44's out of the Grand Wagoneers are a pain in the ass to find parts for, and the axle seal is leaking. Also, I don't fancy the disc-brake conversion. I'm going with a 95 Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44. Factory discs and I can set up my e-brake.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Aug 20, 2011 3:46 am

I have an HPP3 and my ABS light is always on. Never had an error programming??

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 5:18 am

quick question bout your setup. what size lift springs did you use up front? also how did you go about your steering? high steer arm/knuckle? did you have to use a astro van steering box? just asking cause ive been slowly gathering parts for the swap, right now im pretty much just trying to figure out my steering and what size springs. i have a xj D30/stock rear so im staying with 33's. and im either gonna run a rough country xj long arm kit or the radius arm kit from offroad direct when they release it

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:08 am

paintballrocker wrote:quick question bout your setup. what size lift springs did you use up front? also how did you go about your steering? high steer arm/knuckle? did you have to use a astro van steering box? just asking cause ive been slowly gathering parts for the swap, right now im pretty much just trying to figure out my steering and what size springs. i have a xj D30/stock rear so im staying with 33's. and im either gonna run a rough country xj long arm kit or the radius arm kit from offroad direct when they release it

I'm running 4" lift coils for a TJ. The kit, like I mentioned, is a BDS 4-link long arm for an XJ. I'm also using a JK trac bar. As for the steering, I used a 2wd Astro box with the Astro pitman arm. It's not a high-steer, just a basic cross-over steering set up with the stock knuckles. I'm sorry I haven't been very descriptive. I will post close up pictures of the coil/shock mounts and the steering setup.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 7:15 am

green02crew wrote:I have an HPP3 and my ABS light is always on. Never had an error programming??

I'll give it another try and report back.

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:54 pm

I'm running 4" lift coils for a TJ. The kit, like I mentioned, is a BDS 4-link long arm for an XJ. I'm also using a JK trac bar. As for the steering, I used a 2wd Astro box with the Astro pitman arm. It's not a high-steer, just a basic cross-over steering set up with the stock knuckles. I'm sorry I haven't been very descriptive. I will post close up pictures of the coil/shock mounts and the steering setup.

sweet thanks alot man! any pics or info will be greatly appreciated. i hoping to have all the parts gathered by oct/nov so i can do the swap in dec when i get my week vacation. do you think 3.73 would be good for 33s? how did your truck run when you had the MML with those gears? im hoping i can get away with it cause id only like to regear the front if i have to, not fron and back haha

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:11 pm

paintballrocker wrote:sweet thanks alot man! any pics or info will be greatly appreciated.

Not a problem my friend.

I almost don't want to answer your questions just because most here can answer them so much better.

paintballrocker wrote:do you think 3.73 would be good for 33s?

paintballrocker wrote:im hoping i can get away with it cause id only like to regear the front if i have to, not fron and back haha

As far as I know, 3.73 works just fine for 33's. But that ratio is only in ZR2's. (Someone chime-in if I'm wrong.) Are you saying that's the current ratio in your rear end?

paintballrocker wrote:how did your truck run when you had the MML with those gears?

When I was running the MML, I was using stock gears. Now after the swap, with 4.56 gears, it is not an extraordinary difference (aside from the fact that something is hindering my accelerations past 65-70mph). The only reason I put 4.56 gears in my axles is because I originally planned on going with bigger tires later on. Now I'm not so sure.

Start reading here: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/4wd-sfa/

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:44 pm

3.73 ratio gears came with the optional offroad tires and G80 package. Mine had 3.73 and they worked great with the 33" tires.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Mon Aug 22, 2011 9:33 pm

HenryJ wrote:3.73 ratio gears came with the optional offroad tires and G80 package. Mine had 3.73 and they worked great with the 33" tires.

If I only would've used the search bar.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Aug 23, 2011 6:54 am

RPO GT4 is the optional 3.73 ratio and I believe the stock ratio was RPO GU6 for the 3.42 gears

paintballrocker · Post by **paintballrocker** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 2:24 pm

Start reading here: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/4wd-sfa/

ive been reading on there since i got my s10, the sfa swap has always been my dream hahha

3.73 ratio gears came with the optional offroad tires and G80 package. Mine had 3.73 and they worked great with the 33" tires.

yea thats what i have. glad to know i can get by on 3.73's for 33's. i really didnt feel like regearin 2 axles

I used a 2wd Astro box with the Astro pitman arm

do you think its a must have for coils, cause ive read mixed views on if its really needed for coils cause you dont have to worry bout your linkage clearin leaf spring. i would like to be able to just run a stock box with a drop pitman arm.

sorry if im askin alot of Q's but you have a set up im most likely gonna run so i thought id pick your brain a little haha

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Aug 24, 2011 7:37 pm

paintballrocker wrote:
Start reading here: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/4wd-sfa/

ive been reading on there since i got my s10, the sfa swap has always been my dream hahha

3.73 ratio gears came with the optional offroad tires and G80 package. Mine had 3.73 and they worked great with the 33" tires.
yea thats what i have. glad to know i can get by on 3.73's for 33's. i really didnt feel like regearin 2 axles

I used a 2wd Astro box with the Astro pitman arm
do you think its a must have for coils, cause ive read mixed views on if its really needed for coils cause you dont have to worry bout your linkage clearin leaf spring. i would like to be able to just run a stock box with a drop pitman arm.

sorry if im askin alot of Q's but you have a set up im most likely gonna run so i thought id pick your brain a little haha

It's always been my dream too, man. Just find your parts, save your money and give yourself as much time as possible. If you plan to do it in a week, get as much help as possible.

As for the steering box, even if you go coils instead of leafs keeping the stock box, you may still have problems with the trac bar getting in the way. I'll have to do more research and get back to you on that.

Don't worry about asking questions. I love answering questions that I know the answer to. The problem is I don't know much. Lol

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sat Aug 27, 2011 11:48 am

Pictures added. ^

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Aug 28, 2011 9:12 pm

14x4 wrote:Pictures added. ^

Explains a lot.

I was going to ask a few more questions but, after rereading your earlier comments, my questions are answered. Looks really good.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 11:51 am

Update

Modifications Currently Underway:

- Currie Antirock sway bar
- 1" to 2" more lift via coil spacers and additional leaf-springs
- Swapping '88 Grand Wagoneer rear for '95 Isuzu Rodeo rear
- Wheel spacers, attempting to program the ecm, other miscellaneous mods

It should all be finished next week. Pictures soon to come.

BTW Brule, those wheel spacers/adapters for a 6x5.5 Chevy don't fit the Isuzu rear. The center bore isn't big enough. I had to order another set specific for the Isuzu. If anyone needs 2" spacers for a 6x5.5 Chevy, PM me!

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 2:12 pm

Could you have them turned out to fit your oversize hub?

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:45 pm

Have them milled to make the hole bigger? It would cost $25 to $50 per adapter from what I'm told. It's much easier just to buy the correct ones. I should've just done 5 minutes more of research in the first place. Rookie mistake

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:53 pm

14x4 wrote:Have them milled to make the hole bigger? It would cost $25 to $50 per adapter from what I'm told. It's much easier just to buy the correct ones.

You're probably right. Live and learn. "Cheaper than a college education".

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:18 pm

Well I said my truck would be done this week but it ended up taking longer than expected. Big surprise.

However, I have a couple teaser pics of the truck almost done. The Isuzu rear hasn't been installed yet in these pictures but it shows the 2" increase in lift. (The back is NOT that high - the jack stands just couldn't go any lower. The back will be 3/4" taller.)

As you might have noticed, I installed new headlights and painted the grille & badge before I brought it to the shop. More pictures as soon as possible.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 3:18 pm

14x4 wrote:Update

Modifications Currently Underway:

- Currie Antirock sway bar.....................

For the front, I assume? Definitely post up pics on this process. I love mine but, it takes some "getting used to" on the street. If, you aren't going to seriously off road it then, wouldn't a more stable alternative come a little cheaper and be more stable during a rapid accident avoidance situation?

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 5:48 pm

F9K9 wrote:
14x4 wrote:Update

Modifications Currently Underway:

- Currie Antirock sway bar.....................
For the front, I assume? Definitely post up pics on this process. I love mine but, it takes some "getting used to" on the street. If, you aren't going to seriously off road it then, wouldn't a more stable alternative come a little cheaper and be more stable during a rapid accident avoidance situation?

The appeal of the Antirock is that I'll never have to disconnect in order to get good flex while off road. I've read that it is not as firm as a stock sway bar, but then again, I've been driving for months without ANY sway bar. Anything is an improvement.

Pictures ASAP.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Nov 01, 2011 7:51 pm

More detailed pictures as soon as I get the truck home.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 02, 2011 4:23 pm

14x4 wrote:More detailed pictures as soon as I get the truck home..................

Gonna hold you to it.

Looks like you lost a lot of the adjustment holes on the Currie AR but, you may never need 'em. Anxious to see more pics from dead straight ahead of the front axle and some side shots. Looks good!!

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Nov 02, 2011 8:42 pm

F9K9 wrote:
14x4 wrote:More detailed pictures as soon as I get the truck home..................
Gonna hold you to it. Looks like you lost a lot of the adjustment holes on the Currie AR but, you may never need 'em. Anxious to see more pics from dead straight ahead of the front axle and some side shots. Looks good!!

Picking up the truck Friday. Having some trouble with the emergency brake cable. The shop building my truck said a custom brake cable would take 4 weeks to make. I said SCREW THAT, put in a stock brake cable! That's what the guys at S10forum are doing.

The sway bar could have been mounted further towards the front of the vehicle (so that the arms could have remained longer), but my grille guard brackets are in the way. I did NOT want to get rid of it in order to mount the sway bar further up. I made sure I would be able to keep my grille guard. I love it. It protects the front end of my truck against small trees and branches and it gives me a step up into my engine. It looks good, and weighs WAY less than a full-blown ARB style front bumper. Of course, you already knew all this Reed.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 11:36 am

Updated pictures at top. ^

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:00 pm

14x4 wrote:EDIT

It really looks like a good thought out install. I do have to ask if, what I am seeing in the photo is the shop welding on the Currie AR.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Nov 06, 2011 9:09 pm

F9K9 wrote:I do have to ask if, what I am seeing in the photo is the shop welding on the Currie AR.

Yes it is. Why do you ask?

sonomadude4x4 · Post by **sonomadude4x4** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 5:44 pm

saw u changed your headlights where did u get the ones for the turn signals? did u have the stock fog lights?

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Nov 08, 2011 11:42 pm

sonomadude4x4 wrote:saw u changed your headlights where did u get the ones for the turn signals? did u have the stock fog lights?

The turn signal housings came with the headlights. It was a package deal I got off of Ebay. The only downside to this is it erases your fog lights because it doesn't have hole for the bulb to go into. Didn't really bother me though as the fog lights were kind of hindered by the grille guard and didn't do much anyways.

I definitely recommend buying that kind of stuff on Ebay. There is a HUGE selection and you'll probably be very satisfied if you buy from a reputable seller.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:52 pm

14x4 wrote:
F9K9 wrote:I do have to ask if, what I am seeing in the photo is the shop welding on the Currie AR.
Yes it is. Why do you ask?

I was/am concerned about welding to something that is supposed to "twist" for it's full length being welded on or near the frame horns. It seems that you lose the entire section, between the welded points, from being able to flex or twist. I just may not be seeing things correctly and I certainly do not know anything about metallurgy and how heat affects it different treated metals. I do know that if, they welded it where the section between the welds cannot move then, they have really limited the amount of fles that could attain.

That long piece at the top of the photo should be allowed to have movement along the entire length of the shaft.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 5:00 pm

I believe the mounting tube is welded, not the torsion bar.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:32 pm

HenryJ wrote:I believe the mounting tube is welded, not the torsion bar.

Brule, you're 100% correct. My bad!! Thanks for setting me straight.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:41 pm

Meh, it throws you off a little when they weld a tube in place of the mounts

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:07 pm

HenryJ wrote:I believe the mounting tube is welded, not the torsion bar.

Yes, this is correct. The torsion bar/sway bar is inside of the metal tube.

I see the picture of the AntiRock components you posted includes two separate mounts, instead of a tube like I have. This is odd. I would imagine it's because the AntiRock kit that I have is universal, while the kit you posted is probably vehicle-specific.

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 6:27 pm

I was FINALLY able to swap my TJ 4" lift coils and 2" coil spacers for XJ 6" lift coils. The XJ coils lifted the front end of my truck way more than I expected. It had a serious "Cali Lean," so we cut one ring from the bottom of the coils to level it out. The XJ coils are so much more firm - my truck is much more stable now. I can't believe the difference in spring-rate between a TJ and a XJ!

The TJ coils bowed like crazy because they were so soft. But these coils stand perfectly straight up and down. Way better.

All in all, my truck's front end is about 2" higher than it was. Looks much more level now but the front end still might be about .5" higher than the rear. The springs should settle a little bit though.

I'm thinking about bumping the rear up a tiny bit. One inch max. What do you think, 1" lift shackles, 1" lift blocks or throw a couple leaves in the pack?

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:02 am

Updates?

14x4 · Post by **14x4** » Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:34 pm

Lol not much has changed since this thread died, aside from an Aussie locker and maintenance/repairs. Although I should have a decent update sometime in January. Nothing crazy. We're reworking the front end.

_STUCKY · Post by **_STUCKY** » Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:01 am

Well I need motivation. Let's see some teaser pics

jedthrocornpone · Post by **jedthrocornpone** » Fri Feb 27, 2015 5:19 pm

Did you use the 32" universal antilock? I'm in the market and looking for help choosing the correct length arms