Coolant Leak

[paintballrocker]

I just finished up doing the usual tune up items on the CC last night and i think i found where my mysterious coolant leak is. it appears to be leaking from the hose connection at the bottom point on the passanger side of the truck. I just replaced the rad last summer so i doubt the plastic connection nipple is cracked, im thinking its either the hose or clamp since i didnt replace those when i did the rad. what would be the suggested route to take, replace the hose first or replace the clamp first?

thanks!

[okaussie]

I would loosen the clamp and make sure the hose is on all the way then retighten it.

I had to replace my radiator due to a crack in the plastic on the drivers side at the top.

While I was at it I went and replaced all the hoses and clamps. Mine had 150K miles on it so it was due.

If you find that the bottom hose is cracked, it needs to be replaced. Mine was a PITA to change due to age. While I was at it I also changed the clamps too. Made it alot easier to put back together. Also replace the radiator cap.

Bill

[HenryJ]

Something to keep in mind is that our hoses are now made of EPDM. This takes a set when first installed. Once heated it forms to the part on which it has been installed. This promotes a very good seal. However when installing a new part the hose may no longer fit the form it has taken.
sometimes you hear the mechanic replacing all the hoses every time a new connection is installed. That is why. You run a risk of leaking installing a used hose on a new part.
Older natural rubber hoses are different. They require more torque to seal and resist forming to the connection.

Clamps: Those spring clamps that often time get tossed in favor of the worm drive screw hose clamps are not all bad. They are called constant tension clamps or variable tension hose clamps. They maintain pressure on the connection whereas a screw type clamp must be checked periodically. my opinions have changed on their usefulness and I am not so quick to discard them. Spring tension does weaken with time so replacement is needed at some point.
EPDM hoses require less clamping force. That is a good thing on plastic connections.

[paintballrocker]

well ill have to check the hose and clamp tomorrow after i hit this offroad park i found over here. i suspect its prob the hose since i didnt replace it when i replaced the rad.

[F9K9]

Something to keep in mind is that our hoses are now made of EPDM. This takes a set when first installed. Once heated it forms to the part on which it has been installed. This promotes a very good seal. However when installing a new part the hose may no longer fit the form it has taken.
sometimes you hear the mechanic replacing all the hoses every time a new connection is installed. That is why. You run a risk of leaking installing a used hose on a new part.
Older natural rubber hoses are different. They require more torque to seal and resist forming to the connection.

Clamps: Those spring clamps that often time get tossed in favor of the worm drive screw hose clamps are not all bad. They are called constant tension clamps or variable tension hose clamps. They maintain pressure on the connection whereas a screw type clamp must be checked periodically. my opinions have changed on their usefulness and I am not so quick to discard them. Spring tension does weaken with time so replacement is needed at some point.
EPDM hoses require less clamping force. That is a good thing on plastic connections.

Awesome info for us old timers! Thanks, Brule

[rlrnr53]

I've come to the same conclusion as Brule on the clamps. Over the last couple o years, I've seen less leaks with the OE (Corbin) clamps. A lot of heavy duty trucks have gone to a heat shrink clamp which works well, but can leat a little when the engine is cold.