Some questions. Testing Ball joints?

[fallvitals]

Okay, first, I want to test my ball joints. I have a lot of popping upfront all the time, I hope its just the Torsion Bar rubbing the frame like someone said. How do you do that, jack it up under the control arm, dial indictator on the rim, move tire, if its outside of .125" they are bad?

I saw this last weekend,,,, I dont know if its something to be worried about, its the ?front sway bar? the driers side has a gap in it like the rubber gasket thing has flatened, I dont know if that will cause problems?

Passanger (good)


Driver (bad)



Also, I started my truck tonight, and I heard the most awful whinning noise from it. I just installed my efans, I thought it was them. I opened the hood and they were on... I tracked it to the distributer. It was making a whining sound, I put my hand on it and I could feel it rotating and it kinda softened the noise. Then it stopped after about 2 minutes. Should I be worried about that?

[JimmyMac]

I had a popping noise when I turned my steering wheel also, I found ball joints were bad. Because of time issues and wanting to get the noise fixed asap, I originally took truck to a local shop and they told me ball joints were good. They told me bad shocks were my problem. It sounded very unlikely but had them instal new shocks. I already knew my shocks were shot so... anyway I drove out of there and heard noise again. I took truck to a parkin lot and had a friend spin steering wheel back and forth many times, while I crawled around underneath, thats how I found ball joints were bad. The shop had truck on a lift so I am guessing that is why they did not show as bad. (I do not use that shop anymore LOL)
As far as the control arm, I replaced them myself, very easy to replace and you can get them from any local auto parts shop.
The cap and rotor noise, not sure what the issue is there but I'd just replace both and see if it helps. Thats very easy also to do.
Good Luck

[HenryJ]

Check for play in the distributor shaft. More than a few have found worn drive gears.

[roadrunner]

I too have had the sway-bar bushings go out on one side. It will make a LOT of noise if they get loose enough or the bushings go completely. Replace them with the poly bushings instead of rubber. They will perform better and last longer. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN the poly bushings as this will cause them to split and fail early. Only tighten them till they compress 10% or a little more.

[fallvitals]

Im pretty certain I tested the ball joints correctly. I took pictures to show, and ask to be certain.

Where I jacked (drivers side). And how high the tire was off the ground.








Got the dial indicator zeroed in at the botom of the rim. I then pushed and pulled on the tire at the top and bottom. It moved to either side .010".



The GM manual says:

"Check the ball joints for horizontal looseness.
Position the J 8001 dial indicator against the lowest outboard point on the wheel rim.
Rock the wheel in and out while reading the dial indicator. This shows horizontal looseness in both joints.
The dial indicator reading should be no more than 2.00 mm (0.080 in). If the reading is too high, check the lower ball joints for vertical looseness. "



I moved the indicator to the left side of the rim to check for vertical looseness, i didnt relize I did this wrong and your suppose to do the spindle. But I think if the horizontal is good, then there is no need to check the vertical correct?


But for poops and giggles since I took the picture here is the set up and reading on the verticle test I did, which appreantly was wrong, your suppose to put it on the spindle. It only moved left to right .030"






So... it looks like my ball joints are good, right?



Ill have to check out the distributor now.. lol... one more thing...


Road Runner... How hard is it to replace those? Any special tools needed? Is there a better place to order from to get the poly bushings your talking about? If that entire assembly am I only replacing the one bushing on each end of the sway bar?

Mine makes A LOT of noise. EVen when braking driving striaght, does that sound similer to when yours went bad?

[HenryJ]

Check out the sway bar disconnect thread for the bushing part numbers. Pick up some ES poly bushings, end caps, bolts, wingnuts and pins to make your own.

[fallvitals]

Ill check that out. Im glad my ball joints are good to go, assuming to tested em right, lol.

[roadrunner]

Replacement of the sway bar bushings is fairly simple and straightforward. I did mine with the truck sitting on the ground and the suspension in normal driving loaded position. Just unbolt both ends of the sway bar and pull it down. Install the poly bushings in place of the rubber ones. Note: I added washers to one end of my sway bar since when sitting on the level there was a difference in available space for bushings large enough to cause a problem. Notice I said on the level. Bolt the bar back up in place compressing the bushings only 10-15%. More will cause them to split and fail. I used nylon insert locking nuts to keep the bolts from coming loose. You could use double nut method if you prefer. I don't trust mechanical locking nuts (dimpled) as I have had trouble in the past with them coming loose.

In answer to your question on noise. YES they most definitely make a lot of noise when the bushings are loose or missing!

As for where to get the bushings you can buy them online from energy suspensions and numerous other sources. I bought mine from Autozone for a quite reasonable price and have had no trouble with them.

Also note there are 4 bushings on each end of the sway bar. Typical kits for replacements come with 8 bushings and the necessary washers etc. You reuse the hard spacer between the two lower bushings on each side.

[fallvitals]

Sounds good. Alot better then ball joints!

I'm looking at the energy kit. Lots of amazing reviews. The kit every one got is for a 33mm sway bar. I decided to measure my sway bar before ordering, and I apperantly have a 35mm sway bar. It was inconstant, measuring 14.5-15.2mm. Guess I need a larger size then everyone else.

[fallvitals]

If the distributor gear is worn, can the gear be replaced? Or the whole thing?

[roadrunner]

Yes the gear is available separately. I thought mine was getting bad a few months ago and ordered one out on Amazon.com. AC Delco # 10457356 gear washer and pin kit. About 30 bucks if I remember correctly. I then discovered I had a shorted dist cap instead. Oh well, at least I have a spare on hand.

[fallvitals]

Alrighty, before I pull the distributor, is there any thing I should know? I have only replaced the cap. That's all the experiance I have with the distributor. Does it just pull out and drop in? Has to be put back in the exact same position? I'm assuming if it's the gear It will be obviously worn?

[HenryJ]

Check the stock information pages for distributor removal and replacement. if there is play it is worn. If there is not, no need to pull it.

[roadrunner]

Couldn't say it any better than HJ just did.

[fallvitals]

Well the new bushings did nothing to fix my popping and cracking noises. Even disconnected it was the same noises.

So I'm guessing my tb is making all of the sound? I don't know where else to check?

[HenryJ]

Lube the TBs

[fallvitals]

I have with aerosol white lithium grease. No differance.

[HenryJ]

I like GM Superlube. It penetrates better. The white grease works OK too though. Check your A-arm bolts. A couple have found them loose.

[JaVeRo]

If you are hearing the noise from inside the cab, don't forget to check the hood hinges.

It would really suck if you replaced a bunch of parts only to find out you needed a 50 cent washer that GM sells for 5 dollars.

[HenryJ]

Excellent point! A piece of hose can be used to diagnose that. The e-brake lines and pinch weld vs EGR tube are others to check as well.
Maybe motor mounts?
Lots of suspects.