u joints problem

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:27 pm

hello everyone I am trying to replace my u joints but the front one won't seem to move to get it off any idea's ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 4:50 pm

Does it have spring clips or does it still have the plastic injected retainer?

If it has never been changed you will need to heat the yoke with a torch to melt the plastic and press the u-joint out while hot.

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:53 pm

has the plastic retainers

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:54 pm

press out with like a c-clamp ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:34 pm

It will take more than that. A big vise , joint press, or arbor press would be helpful.
I have one of those Harbor Freight ball joint presses, but have yet to use it. Most often I use an 8" jaw bench vise.
Seasoned veterans do it with just hammers. I do too much damage that way.

Heat it up until the plastic crawls out like a snake, then quickly remove the joint. Once out pick it clean before installing the new joint.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:37 pm

junkraider wrote:press out with like a c-clamp ?

After you get the plastic melting I would use a vise that would spread far enough apart. Otherwise check what loaner programs you local auto part stores offer. Normally is you rent (buy) the loaner tools and get 100% reimbursed upon their return. Watch out for the caps on the u-joints when they let go. It can be violent and I have need some pretty cool holes through windows and drywall. If, you have a drive line shop, check on their prices.

It's normally pretty reasonable compared to parts, time, glass and drywall costs combined.

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:37 pm

lol i dont have any vises and tried hammers and tried c-clamp and well lets just say i might be buying a vise tomorrow

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:40 pm

Watch out for the caps on the u-joints when they let go. It can be violent and I have need some pretty cool holes through windows and drywall. If, you have a drive line shop, check on their prices.

It's normally pretty reasonable compared to parts, time, glass and drywall costs combined. Wink

well i guess working on it right next to my truck is not a good ideal then ! i was thinking about useing a saws all and choping the old ones out lol probably wont work either

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:48 pm

Nope

Lots of heat. You have to melt the plastic out. I use an Oxy-acetylene cutting torch. A propane torch doesn't quite get it hot enough. Map gas might get close.

When it is hot enough they come out pretty easy.

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 8:54 pm

figures just my luck i might just see what the shop will charge to do the u joints when the drive shafts already out . or maybe i could see how much they will charge to take the old u joints out only

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:06 pm

Once they are out changing them next time will be easy. They will be held in place by spring clips now.

IMO, if you haven't done one and feel the least bit hesitant, have a shop pull the originals. Watch it if they will let you. Cheaper than college tuition.

junkraider · Post by **junkraider** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 9:15 pm

lol yeah im trying take it to a friends shop right now
if hes got time for me

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Aug 20, 2009 10:01 pm

I really do not understand that plastic sealing reasoning. Heeps did the fronts like that on the axle end of the drive shaft. I spent almost $125 in decent parts and destroyed mine. New OEM one was $175. I bit the bullet and bought a custom one for $300. They will rebuild them all day long for $50. Have my OEM one as a spare but, the heep is getting a definite reverse rake to it with all the tools, axles, fluids and drive shafts in the rear.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 4:23 pm

Are there Mallards circling the heep?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Aug 21, 2009 5:09 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:Are there Mallards circling the heep?

Not anymore than any other heep.

In case you missed it before, Heeps are a true black hole for money. The name says it all!

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu May 27, 2010 8:03 am

Speaking of doing U-Joints... When doing the rears 3 out of 4 bolts came out with only slight effort. The 4th bolt as you guessed it, broke.

Thoughts or solutions?
I do have a spare axle sitting in the garage with no broken bolts and good threads. Is it possible to remove what looks like 1 1/2" nut and take it off the front of the axle and attach it to my current one?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 27, 2010 8:10 am

green02crew wrote:I do have a spare axle sitting in the garage with no broken bolts and good threads. Is it possible to remove what looks like 1 1/2" nut and take it off the front of the axle and attach it to my current one?

Yes. You will need a needle type inch pound torque wrench to measure the pinion preload prior to removing the nut. That way you can get the correct preload on the pinion bearings when you reassemble it.

It seems like there is a thread around on how to do this?

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu May 27, 2010 8:24 am

This sounds like it will be a project. Northern rust is not my friend. With the added rust, will that change the measurement of torque? Any other ways to get around the broken bolt?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 27, 2010 10:11 am

You are not measuring the torque of the nut. You are measuring the torque required to turn the pinion. The nut is torques a couple hundred foots pounds to create the preload on the bearings by crushing a steel sleeve that rides between the opposing bearings.

Exterior rust should not affect the bearing preload.

Drill and extract is as good as I know for the broken bolt. It will be easier to fix while removed. You may need heat and that would damage the seal. You should plan to replace it while things are apart anyway.

It IS going to be a "project". Sorry.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Thu May 27, 2010 2:48 pm

The thread which Brule speaks of,

http://forums.s-10crewcab.net/viewtopic ... inion+seal

if you have any questions about that pinion nut, ask. Been there, FYI your gonna need to buy or rent a GOOD gear puller.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri May 28, 2010 4:02 pm

Is the Zr2 yoke the same as the standard s-10 yoke? I could easily swap them out.

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri May 28, 2010 4:24 pm

green02crew wrote:Is the Zr2 yoke the same as the standard s-10 yoke? I could easily swap them out.

I doubt it. The pinion in the 8.5 is bigger. Mine did use the same u-joint, but I have heard others had different joints.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sun May 30, 2010 8:45 am

Would the yoke out of a silverado work seeing as they have the same size rear end or would the ujoints be a different size?

I tried drill and extraction on the broken bolt with no luck.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun May 30, 2010 9:13 am

Don't know about the silverado yoke but if you're up against it drill the bolt clear out and heli-coil it. Cheaper than a new yoke at least.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 30, 2010 9:34 am

The full size will also be the 8.5 that may or may not match the ZR2 axle.
I would head down to the local salvage yard and buy one that is a match if you don't have one.
I have one for the stock 7.625" off of my old axle, but I am quite a distance from you.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:18 am

Okay, figured what the heck, tossed in my zr2 axle.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 3:49 pm

HenryJ wrote:...............I have one of those Harbor Freight ball joint presses, but have yet to use it.............

Many praises but, more cussings on the HF press. I spread mine on a DS U joint replacement. I don't know how that it would apply to a DS ujoint replacement but, one method recommended is to apply torque to the press then hit the thing that you are removing something from with a BFH. I know it works with pitman arms and drag links with the TREs. Also keeping the threads lubed in the process helps. Make any sense?

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 7:05 pm

Just finished using a HF ball joint press tool (4x4 model) installing new ball joints in a 94 nissan sentra with no problems. Worked well.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Thu Jun 03, 2010 10:19 am

I did end up using a drill press to get the bolt out of the yolk. I then tapped it out to 3/8. I followed up with all the holes and did them all out to 3/8 so they would be even. Since the yolk is now course thread, I thought lock washers would be a smart choice. Axle is about ready to go now. Some new seals and bearings since its sitting and it will be nearly new again.

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