Been a long time since I posted - actually took me a lil while to find you guys again!
anyway - quick question - stock radiator crapped out yesterday @ 110k miles. Looks like it cracked somewhere in the upper drivers side, on the front side of the rad. When I am installing the replacement this evening, can I hook up my flush kit (using the prestone kit that is installed into the heater return line) and circulate water through the motor without the lower rad hose connected to just flush the motor/heatercore?
It's been a while since I flushed the truck out, so I'm foggy on the process. I remember you used to just pull the lower drain plug and let it drain while flushing, so would I be hurting the built-in trans and oil coolers if the radiator is empty when running the motor?
flush without the rad hooked up?
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adrenalnjunky
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flush without the rad hooked up?
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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F9K9
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Re: flush without the rad hooked up?
I would rather flush with the engine running and the AT lines hooked up. There is a plug on the block (drivers side) that I pulled.
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adrenalnjunky
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Re: flush without the rad hooked up?
Yeah - did that, the block was pretty much empty. I had to drive it a short distance with the temp gauge pegged.
Once I realized the block was empty, I connected the Oil/AT lines flushed the block for a min, then connected the radiator hoses and filled her up.
Truck is running about 20 degrees cooler now than it did with the old 109k mile radiator.
Only prob now is that when the old radiator cracked , it doused my new Gates drivebelt and the front of the motor in antifreeze, and the belt won't stop squeeling at mid-rpm. I cleaned the engine w/ a very mild degreaser solution, and it didn't help. Looks like I get to buy another belt to get it to go quiet.
Once I realized the block was empty, I connected the Oil/AT lines flushed the block for a min, then connected the radiator hoses and filled her up.
Truck is running about 20 degrees cooler now than it did with the old 109k mile radiator.
Only prob now is that when the old radiator cracked , it doused my new Gates drivebelt and the front of the motor in antifreeze, and the belt won't stop squeeling at mid-rpm. I cleaned the engine w/ a very mild degreaser solution, and it didn't help. Looks like I get to buy another belt to get it to go quiet.
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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green02crew
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Re: flush without the rad hooked up?
Belt conditioner?
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adrenalnjunky
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Re: flush without the rad hooked up?
Didn't make much better.green02crew wrote:Belt conditioner?
[size=75]Thanks, CHRIS
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
2000 S10 Blazer 4x4 4Dr. -- 2" PA BodyLift, Daystar Shackles, TB Crank, 1.75" Rear wheel spacers, Yakima roofrack, 30" BFG AT's.
1969 VW Bug -- airbagged and in pieces.
1962 VW Karmann ghia -- rusting over in the corner. "That's not a tool--that's a damn brick!"[/size]
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WVHogRider
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Re: flush without the rad hooked up?
Funny thing just happened to me yesterday. The stock radiator just went out on mine @145K in the same location. Anybody got the part number to the upgraded/oversized or even the stock radiator? Looks like I'll be changing that out tomorrow/ASAP.adrenalnjunky wrote:stock radiator crapped out yesterday @ 110k miles. Looks like it cracked somewhere in the upper drivers side, on the front side of the rad.
Edit: Nevermind, I found the part numbers on the other thread. Found it locally for 109.99, (129.99-$20 coupon), and then add tax.
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