PIAA 525 wiring.... INSTALLED! Pictures and info inside!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 2:28 pm

In normal fashion I have flooded this forum with my newest project, a set of PIAA Dual Beam (fog/driving) lights.

Wiring them per instructions looks like cake. The problem is, when they are turned on, and you want to switch between driving and fog light you have to press the included piaa switch, as well as your stock headlight switch to make the adjustment for both sets to be on low, or high. Example. Im driving down the interstate with the high beams and driving lights,,, I will need to press the PIAA switch, and also the high beam switch to get them both down to low (fog).

I did a bit of googling and came across a thread that was explaining how to wire these lights so that the vehicles light switch controls it, and I THINK the piaa switch still controls main power of the lights (on/off), but it was never addressed in the thread.

I took the diagram, re-made it to post here so it showed more of it.

(Diagram got cut off please use this link:)
http://photos.imageevent.com/rc_racer_0 ... iagram.jpg

Piaa 525 install manual, http://www.piaa.com/Lamps/install/525.pdf

After doing the quad beam mod, I think I understand it,, but I have a few questions if some of you more electrical guys can answer...

#1) What was the battery ground now says to, "Connect two wires to end ond of switch. Ground other end of switch". But then it shows the Negative wire coming from the switch as not used?

I have no clue on that? Ideas?

#2) Where it says "cut the black wire going in and ground" (coming from the lamp going to the relay). That doesnt seem right to me,, or does it? Seems like the relay needs the ground? but the lgiht will still be ground if you do that...?

I am just trying to wire it so I have a main on/off switch, but the vehicle controls the auxilary lights with the low and high beam (when the auxilary is turned on of course).

Thanks in advance.

Edit - The guy who made the diagram above that I copyed from that forum also said this:

"I'm assuming your wire harness includes 2 relays then? You can connect the positive relay trigger wires to the stock low and high beam wires respectively. Then run a single ground wire off your switch of choice to the relays. So when switched on, the piaas will follow the stock lights with no further action on your part.
A pic of what you have would help explain things easier."

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 2:50 pm

I hate to tell you , but it is going to be easier to eliminate the switch that you have there.

If I get this right you want to have your high beams come on activated by the vehicles high beams. Then you want the low beams to come on activated by the vehicles low beams. You also want a master shut off for them.

What you need to do is cut the wires to that switch and wire them to your headlamps instead. Basically, it will almost be easier to start from scratch. Use the diagram from the quadbeam mod as an example.

This might be worth trying:

Low beam relay:
#30- PIAA low +
#87- Fuse / Battery +
#85- vehicle LH low beam wire + (YEL/BLK)
#86- switch

High beam relay:
#30- PIAA high +
#87- Fuse / Battery +
#85- vehicle LH high beam wire + (DK GRN/BLK)
#86- switch

Switch:
Terminal 1 - #86 from both high and low beam relays
Terminal 2 - Ground

Light:
+ #30 low from relay
+ #30 high from relay
-Ground

Now all that looks great on paper, but in reality, I think you are going to find a problem with it if our lights are activated by the grounds. That tosses everything I wrote above out the window. You would use the power side to kill the lights and the grounds to activate the relays. If that is indeed the case as I suspect then you wire like this:

Low beam relay:
#30- PIAA low +
#87- Fuse / Battery +
#85- vehicle LH low beam wire - (YEL)
#86- switch

High beam relay:
#30- PIAA high +
#87- Fuse / Battery +
#85- vehicle LH high beam wire - (PPL) (polarity of this wire rotates for reduced intensity DRL, be careful)
#86- switch

Switch:
Terminal 1 - #86 from both high and low beam relays
Terminal 2 - IGN +

The next issue is the AHL and DRL circuits. The ground rotates polarity. So what was once a ground is now a power wire.

that is how the reduced intensity DRL system works. Now throw in the flash to pass circuit. Are your lights going to flash on when that is activated? Perhaps. Our lighting system is not so simple.
You have some experimenting to do

A little testing and you should be able to figure it all out.

BTW, If you leave the quad mod enabled, both elements on the PIAA will be energized, just as the headlamps are.
One more problem, you will need to disable the DRL or shut off your lights so they are not enabled by the daytime running lamps.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:03 pm

Oh! This is where Reed steps in and shouts...FM!
Then promptly runs away screaming!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:05 pm

Think I got it now.

Terminal 1 - #86 from both high and low beam relays, I am just gonna splice both wires together and run them to the switch as one, correct?

I'll have to set here and study some more to ee if I can salvage the kit... id hate to have to buy two relays and possibly other things (even if I do buy two relays, I have the one for the quad beam im gonna disable, and I should be able to salvage the wiring from the kit, and fuses).

Thanks Brule. That really cleared it up. I kept feeling like I had it almost figured out and that stupid switch would ruin my idea, lol. I can do simple electrical stuff, but once you get more then one set of wires going my head locks up, lol.

lol, im not sure what FM means?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:09 pm

fallvitals wrote:Terminal 1 - #86 from both high and low beam relays, I am just gonna splice both wires together and run them to the switch as one, correct?

Yes. You can even jumper from one to the next and then just run one wire. This is just to enable the relays.

Thanks Brule... im not sure what FM means?

I would let Reed tell you, but he has lots on his plate right now, so I will. it is "F'n Magic!"
His story of how that came to be is a good listen

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:24 pm

lol, well if he ever wants to tell it ill listen... or read, lol.

I just dont understand why piaa wouldn't have em wired up like this anyways.

looks like ill just need to find a good place to mount these relays at.. shouldn't be too awful bad. If your gonna do something right...

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:29 pm

fallvitals wrote:I just dont understand why piaa wouldn't have em wired up like this anyways.

They do. Just as an independent installation. Their liability would be huge if they planned the kit to integrate into all vehicles stock headlamps systems. Not to mention all the legal matters we already discussed.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:56 pm

True True, it would seem like a legal disclaimer would work though. lol, but now I know what I need to do...

Ill have to get a rocker switch, 1 more relay (use the quadbeam relay for this) and I should be able to use the wires and fuses from the kit. And I think I sitll have enough female connectors for the relay.

I need to find a good place to mount the rocker switch... Im thinking theres an empty accessory hole below the 4x4 selection buttons. Take off that cover, dremel it out, slip the switch in it so it looks pretty stock.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:39 pm

The switch/ign +, is that just a constant 12v source? Any idea where to tap into one at? I know dad helped me find one before on my old truck bu can't recall what it was or how he did it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 4:50 pm

fallvitals wrote:The switch/ign +, is that just a constant 12v source?

No. Hot only with the ignition in the on position. That way you don't leave them on and drain the battery

You will have to tap the fuse panel in the dash.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:03 pm

Gotcha last question! thinking about it, why is the switch grounded in the first set up you typed, an the second set up you gave the switch is +? why is that?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:19 pm

fallvitals wrote:Gotcha last question! thinking about it, why is the switch grounded in the first set up you typed, an the second set up you gave the switch is +? why is that?

Activation by the highbeam wire may be done through the ground instead of the power. Basically I am saying that the headlamps may have power to them all the time and they are grounded to turn them on. The system was complex and I don't recall all the details now.
This is the original thread from almost seven years ago: Quad Beam Headlight Mod
If you follow that you will find the problem with the reduced intensity daytime running lights and their rotating the polarity of the high beam head lamp wiring to operate them in a series rather than parallel.
The low should be easy to wire up. You get into trouble while trying to figure out how to tap the highs.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 5:42 pm

sounds fun! Lol. Thanks for that info, I'll have to do a lot more reading. I guess I'll have to disable he drls, that doesn't bother me. I think that can be done from the dash. I plan to turn the auxiliary off when I park also.

Sounds like finding the high beam might be a bit of a chore. I guess I'll just lightly crimp in a splice connector first then once I got it figured out, solder it, tape it.

Not sure if I'll be able to salvage the piaa relays, wish I could they are much smaller. It will just be very hard to crimp a connector on the small wires coming out from the relay. In my experiance thin wires don't hold onto a crimp too long without breaking.

If I tap the wrong high, can any thing be damaged, or if somethings polarity reverses like you mentioned?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 6:05 pm

fallvitals wrote:If I tap the wrong high, can any thing be damaged, or if somethings polarity reverses like you mentioned?

Sure. You could burn out a relay, or worse. I am fairly sure that they are fused. That should take some of the risk out of it

Check the underhood electrical center for headlamp fuses.
Using a multimeter to test each connections function prior to assembly is a good idea. You can even test the relays using a little nine volt battery to energize them. That way you can visualize the polarity.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 6:35 pm

Alrighty, I'll have to get dad to help me with the multimeter, I have winged it using one before but really don't know, lol.

As for the ignition + wire for the switch. Instead of running a wire to the fuse box, I can run one to the pink wire (ign 1) in the ignition harness, if I'm not mistaken, it would be cleaner.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:07 pm

Actually,,, I think I might just to be able to use the supplied relays, Might just need a little extra wire to reach the headlight wires wehre the quad is set up now.

The wires from the auxiliary lights will say the same, ill just need to cut and ground the black wire. (Eliminating it from the relay)

The positive white lead going to battery, with fuse, will stay the same.

The white leads from the switch in the above diagram, will still go to be tapped into the the low/high

and if im not mistaken, the negative battery terminal wire coming from the lead will be changed to the low/high for the rocker switch.

edit- like a big dummy with tons of help from you Brule, I finally get what that diagram is saying. its running the main ground to the rocker switch just like you said, but still using this same wiring kit. Im glad you havea lot more knowledge on the headlights then I do, from the diagram I found on techline I was gonna use the yellow and dark green/white. This wont be bad at all... just finding the right low and high to tap into will be fun though, lol.

I think I got it down now, ill have to i make myself a good drawing before I start, lol.

These lamps have a LED thats lights the lamps up blue when the lights arent on. Running the set up like this wont make it work, but I could care less

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 7:55 pm

fallvitals wrote:As for the ignition + wire for the switch. Instead of running a wire to the fuse box, I can run one to the pink wire (ign 1) in the ignition harness, if I'm not mistaken, it would be cleaner.

Soldering a connection to the back side of the in dash fuse panel is not only easier, but safer. You can even just add one wire and you have a fused connection.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 8:38 pm

Oh it's soldered to the back of the fuse panel. I thought you just ran a wire to the front of I and used the fuse to hold it in place. I don't think ihave ever hooked a wire to the fuse box, I'll have to google how to wire that, sounds good.

Anyways, big thanks Brule. I figure I'll get the lights mid part of the week.
Monday I need to get my registration renewed, then show a deputy sheriff cause I got pulled over last night and it was dead, I forgot and mom always takes care of that stuff for me.

Then go to the muffler place and talk about putting a 3" catback generic flowmaster on this week, and ask about a precat delete, and hopefully get that new exhaust done this week. Then I'm done with all the big projects to this stupid truck! lol.

The 3" cat back flowmaster is what you recommend if iirc?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 9:45 pm

fallvitals wrote:...Then I'm done with all the big projects to this stupid truck!

I have said that more times than I can count now!

The 3" cat back flowmaster is what you recommend if iirc?

I think it is the sweet spot.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:30 pm

lol I think you got enough in this truck to buy another! If I did as much as you did to one, I might just keep it as a play truck once I wanted to upgrade, maybe put that v8 you were talking to me about in it for that boat of yours

Heck, I might keep it as a play truck too whenver the day to upgrade comes... just depends on cost of insurance to keep a play truck.

IIRC, the generic flowmaster, no fancy tips is like $160 installed. Hopefully they will straight pipe the precat, I dont think I have problems with it,, but its one less thing...

Thinkin some more, DRL can be disabled with the dome override switch if I'm not mistake .... Hope I don't have to disable the AHL, I really like that feature. DRL disables won't bother me at all.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 1:57 am

I lied, again, I can't recall which highbeam wire I taped into for quadbeam, green with stripe I think. You said I would more then likely have to us that second set up,which was the purple wire...

Shouldn't I use the same wires I'm using for quadbeams? The highbeam
wire in use now seems to flawlessly active the yellow low beam, and no drl issues? I thought the purple wire gave issues when trying to quad? I'm probably wrong, but from my logic it seems these two wires I'm using, at least the high beam being the activator for the relay, is good?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 7:38 am

fallvitals wrote:Shouldn't I use the same wires I'm using for quadbeams?

Not really. That is apples to oranges on too many levels. That is trying to ground the lows to keep them on with the highs.

... from my logic it seems these two wires I'm using, at least the high beam being the activator for the relay, is good?

True. The first scenario does work like that and may work. The only thing that is the same is the tapped wire.
I am sure there are at least a couple other ways to wire this all up.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Feb 14, 2010 11:48 am

Oh this is gonna be sooo much fun! Lol. Eh shouldn't be too bad.

This will be a fairly quick project, should be. Just have to tap the low/high, ground a wire, connect a wire to the battery, run 2 wires to a switch, ground the switch, and run a ign + for the switch. (i think all the switches at advance are 2'position 3 terminal *+\-\load*).

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:22 pm

I want to install the switch in the empty panel directy below the 4x4 select. But there's a wire harness that's connected to the back of it (air bag wires I think since some models have a selector there for the passanger airbag). It was plugged into just a piece of plastic that's plastic rivited? to the back of the panel.

I'm think j can disconnect the "rivited" plastic wire connector thing from the back of the panel and Velcro it somewhere withen reach behind this panel and then drill and install my master light switch. Sound good? I'm just not 100% sure what that wire is and wanted to ask here first.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:30 pm

Blank panel , left of radio

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:Do the Crew Cabs have the wiring harness behind the blank panel for the air bag switch?
No, we have the same harness as all the utilities (Blazers) , so the wiring for the rear wiper/hatch release is back there.

Wiring question

HenryJ wrote:...Can you use the wiring? YES! I even used the switch

(I've added a couple indicator LEDs since this picture)

Heres the wiring:

Pin A YEL = Accesory Voltage

Pin B DK GRN = Rear Window washer Control

Pin C GRY = Rear Window Wiper Switch Signal

Pin D BLK = Trunk Release Switch Signal

Pin E BLK = Ground

Pin F GRY Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:50 pm

Oh snap, that's awesome. I didn't even think to search that

Pin A yellow, is that constant 12v? Or ignition like I need?

So, looks like I just need to find some place to relocate that harness to so my switch can go in there!

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:03 pm

Accessory power, just like you need. If the switch you use is lighted, the dash panel light wire is there too.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:15 pm

The switch I got is a simple on/off with led when on. I'm sure the accessory power will take care of that. This will make that switching wiring a bit easier.

I bought a add a fuse, guess I won't need that now? You did suggest connecting to the fuse box instead?

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 6:23 pm

Well... No luck and I have no idea what to do.

I tapped into the yellow,yellow/black,green/white, and purple wires. I have connectors on all of em right now, and a connector on each light connection, to easily change em.

Tried each set up listed above no luck. Best luck I had was 'mixing' one wire from each set up. Best I got was the power switch to work, and fog to work with low beam, turn off but driving light wouldn't kick on.

I'm at a lose right now, and dad is pretty stumped. The switch has a load, pos and neg on it. With his complex system might loosing the ground on it matter? Doesn't seem like it would as it's seems a matter of the right wires... If they exist.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:27 pm

HenryJ wrote:
fallvitals wrote:Gotcha last question! thinking about it, why is the switch grounded in the first set up you typed, an the second set up you gave the switch is +? why is that?
Activation by the highbeam wire may be done through the ground instead of the power. Basically I am saying that the headlamps may have power to them all the time and they are grounded to turn them on. The system was complex and I don't recall all the details now.
This is the original thread from almost seven years ago: Quad Beam Headlight Mod
If you follow that you will find the problem with the reduced intensity daytime running lights and their rotating the polarity of the high beam head lamp wiring to operate them in a series rather than parallel.
The low should be easy to wire up. You get into trouble while trying to figure out how to tap the highs.

Gonna go back and read more into this post, and the linked post. Tommorow im actually a temporary full time guy again, so wont have time till saturday to play with it some more.

I dont see how just grounding the switch will ground the high beams when all those are doing is just "completing the circuit" for the relays? But I could be talking out of my butt right now too, but ill give it a try. I wonder if the little led on my switch would still work without the accessory wire? I doubt it? but if that makes it work I can live, lol.

Any ways, gonna do some reading, but if any one has any ideas feel free to post

BTW, the green/white & purple are the only wires I can use to activate the high beams right? (BTW Brule,,, is there a green/black? I havent seen one in the diagrams, in the harness, or going to the high beam?)

Put for laughs, when tapping the purple wire. My factory fog light switch for some reason switched the piaa lights, turns out theres a light and dark purple wire. I tapped the light purple and thats the fog light switch, lol. Had me really confused for a little while, lol.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Feb 19, 2010 6:53 pm

fallvitals wrote:.......I dont see how just grounding the switch will ground the high beams when all those are doing is just "completing the circuit" for the relays? But I could be talking out of my butt right now too, but ill give it a try.

That is theorem number 16 of the bigger FM theory.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Feb 19, 2010 7:02 pm

Hmmm,,, FM theory? I need enlightened to all your abbreviations with the letter "f" in the
?

I'm not hopefull that it will work like I want.... Are there any other wires in that big bundle I'm tapping into that might help? I don't think there is but asking, lol.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:24 pm

Alrighty, thanks for all the help.

Finally got em installed. #1 problem was I didnt have the relays grounded. the diagram I posted above was half right. After fixing the grounding problem we still couldn't get the fog light to turn off with the high beam.

We messed around and messed around till it got to dark for DRL to kick on to see what was gonna happen there. And at this point there is no master power switch.

So I started the next day, I decided to start working on the power switch. I took the 30 amp Relay from the quad beams, and wired it up with the main power going to the relays and a activation wire going to my LED switch in the cab. So that made it work perfectly.

Only problem was the fog lights staying on, and not turning off when driving lights (high beams) were activated.

After a while longer I finally discovered the problem. I used a splice connector to temporarly tap into the Purple wire, and I made a bad connection, it was getting no power. I fixed that, it got power, and Whaaa Laaaa, lows kick off when high beam is activated!

There is a LED that is in the lamps that you tap into a low beam/high/park/etc lights... it glows blue... I decided not to install it. Maybe next time I have my grill off ill do it just to see what it looks like... but it looks like a rice burner light and cop attractant.

Brule, heres the wires that were used..... The Driving light is activated by the YELLOW wire, and the fogs are activated by the PURPLE wire. Those are the only two wires that that get grounded. Crazy stuff huh?

They come with a yellow fog light and white driving light (H4 Wattage 60/55w = 110/100w XTRA). The fogs make a pretty big differance, but im not fond of the yellow. I havent had a good chance yet to try out the high beams, they help but so far not as good as I thought... but again I havent had a really dark long stretch of road to try em.

I already bought a new pair of PIAA Intense white (60/55w = 135/125w, 4100K) bulbs. So no more yellow fog, and thse will be much whiter, and they are advertised to had 25 more watts of output.

I also have a set of HIR 9011s coming for my stock high beams.

But heres some pictures. I broke my valance in half taking it off,,, I bought a new on ebay for $30 shipped. Should be here shortly.

Switch in the dash.

Its not as bright as it looks. I bought a similer switch with BLUE LED at advance auto... it was BLINDING! Plus I bought 3 of those green LED switches on ebay for $1 less then the one switch from Advance Auto! The LED looks like it will be just right for not driving, not too bright.

3 relays and two fuses.

High Beams.

The forum cuts some of the pictures off, full size ones at the bottom of the page here: http://imageevent.com/rc_racer_007/s10lift

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 6:31 pm

They really look outstanding!!!!!!! Congrats!! I am sorry that I couldn't contribute but, when it comes to electrical stuff, Brule is "da' MAN"!!!! I just know the basics and all my lighting skills can be directly attributed to him and his patience with the poster child of technical morons. My CC has been nicknamed "Stadium Lighting" by the local off road clubs and I have been called out on more than one day ride that turned into a night recovery.

Super job and thanks for the effort to document it!!!!!!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 1:21 am

Thanks Reed. I'll have the other all white and more wattage bulbs for em tommorow.

Now apperantly my problem is the Led rocker switch. The first stopped stopped glowing after 1 night. And it happened tonight after I got home. Apperantly if I turn the truck off, then th switch off, it kills the LED... Weird... Gonna contact the eBay seller about it... I bought 3 for $7....

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:04 am

I know that it is probably to late for me but, the next build I do will use a unit like the The Control Freak from Skinny Pedal.

SkinnyPedal wrote:
The Control Freak

· These are built to order. Lead time is about 7 to 10 working days

· Weather Tight Power Distribution Center

· Houses 5 Fused Relays and 5 Aux Fuses

· Power Output and Control Connects Through Metri-Pack Sealed Connectors

· Dimensions - 4” Long x 3.5” Wide x 3” Tall
Includes Battery Cables with In Line Fuse, Accessory Wiring, Control Wiring to Switches, and Basic Mount.

He's working on a smaller less expensive unit now but, just one hot wire running into the cab would be sweet. I have relays and wires scattered everywhere in my CC. Another nice deal is that the owner, Josh, will help you when need it. I was having my usual problems with installing "in cab" winch specific controls switches. I called Josh up on a weekend and luckily he wasn't out beating the snot out of his Rubicon. I snapped a couple of pics of my winch and emailed them to him. Minutes later I got an email with my pics professionally altered with excellent directions.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:17 am

That's a pretty interesting set up. Never heard of any thing like that. Sounds like a good guy to do buisness with as well. But that thing is about $150 more then I expected!

I don't think ill have any thing else running into the cab.... I have the switch wire going to the relay for my piaas, and a power cable running from my battery to my amp. I got my generic flowmaster on, and PIAAs installed, and HIRs today.... im done with this thing! lol.

s10 again · Post by **s10 again** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:46 pm

Sweet I need

just to look at the pic of those when lite.

F9K9 wrote:I know that it is probably to late for me but, the next build I do will use a unit like the The Control Freak from Skinny Pedal.

I was thinking about making something like that for my Jeep XJ. I have a Wilderness rack on the roof and want to mount off road lights, side work lights,rear work lights,high powered reverse lights and a winch with fold down boom to assist in getting my 35" spare off the roof. I don't want a ton of wires pulled up to the rack. So my plan is to pull two heavy wires (hot, ground) and 1 muli wire thin guage. Then build a control box with relays and fuses most likely out of a converted military ammo can mounted to the rack. Then switches in the cab using the ground to control the relays. This way I'm not pulling high current through the cab and if something shorts in the cab it is just to ground and turns on a light.

Chris.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Fri Feb 26, 2010 4:17 pm

I was having a problem with the LED on my swich dying. I got some help on another forum. Apperanty the problem was when he circuit was cut off, the emf dies and creates a voltage spike. Turns out soldering in a diode the the coil contacts all absord that voltage.

So far while trying to recreate the situation that killed the LED before, it seems to have worked, my LED switch is still workin!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:08 pm

Hey guys. Thought I'd dig this old thread up.

Playing with my lights today, I was trying to reinstall the quad beams and have them work in conjunction with with piaa fog/driving lights.

The wire I was using to trigger the piaa lights was the same yellow wire used for the quad beams going to contact #30.

I soldered in a addition wire from that yellow so I could plug it into the quad relay and into the connection of my piaa light. But because of the quad relay, it will not trigger the driving light mode of my piaas when high beams are on using the quad mod.

Any idea how I can get them all on at once? Or just have to live without the quad mod?

Also, i installed my new 9011 bulbs. For some reason the passenger high beam bulb was aimed much higher the with my other bulbs. I took it out, reinstalled it, no help. Seems weird that one light would e aimed way higher? I'll try to even em out but need had a new bulb be so far off from the other just by changing. The headlights are installed correctly, anow beams haven't moved.

Crewjoe · Post by **Crewjoe** » Sun Dec 28, 2014 5:23 pm

fallvitals , did you ever get the lights to work all together like you wanted? I did some creative wiring for just such a mod on my dodge ram. My fogs work with the low beams, flip to high beam the driving lights work with high beams...now the cool part. I wanted to be able to have all my lights on the front of the truck lit at once, which is illegal on the road in Indiana. To make this work, you need a double pole double throw toggle switch. Wired with relays for both sides of this all that really is needed is a trigger circuit that is on with either high or low beams, like the parking light circuit. I can also turn them off so just the fogs work in a legal fashion as well as the driving lights only work with high beam, no fogs with low. Or no aux lights at all...