Fuel Pump Stopped *solved (new pump w/connector)

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 8:53 am

MAYDAY!! After moving my '02 CC with 111,000 miles on it a few feet I tried to restart and its dead meat. No sound from my fuel pump and I've tried different fuse, nothing happening. Is there any thing else I should check before I go for a new pump ? Oh , it cranks good and everything else works fine, just no fuel. HELP !!

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 12:22 pm

Get a rubber mallet or just use you fist and bang on the bottom of the fuel tank and see if it starts.

If it does start, move it to a spot where you can work on it and order a new fuel pump.

If it doesn't start and you suspect a fuel problem, go buy a fuel pressure tester, hook it up to the schrader valve near the back of the intake manifold (kinda looks like a valve stem on a tire) and check the fuel pressure.

Steve

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 12:49 pm

I got a truck home by kicking the bottom of the fuel tank with the heel of my boot once. It only worked once but that was all I needed.

James

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:21 am

Thanks , I had already tried the bang on it fix , and it laughed in my face. I have gotten 111000 miles out of the original pump and it did take a dump in my driveway so I was double Blessed. Only took 5 hours to get the dang tank out,now I wait for a new module. Hows $317.99 for an AIRTEC sound?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:21 am

Not good! This is a situation where oem parts are needed. I witnessed first hand how an aftermarket pump took a dump several miles from the end of a trail. It sux, I know, but, we are saddled with this one.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:35 am

I would also recommend a new Delco pump over anything else out there.

Walbro pumps are also very good!

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:46 pm

killian96ss wrote:Walbro pumps are also very good!

I did not know they made a module for our truck. I have not seen one for our application. Do you have a link?

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 1:40 pm

OK Delco OEM it is . My '02 CC has the steel tank and the pump is held in with a snap ring, no twist lock ring. what is the part # for this replacement. No way the stealer is getting $655.55 for their GOLD PLATED model.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:41 pm

Try this. $349

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... SubCatId=2

After looking at it again, I'm not sure which one is for the Crew Cab. The note may be for the item above or for the item below.

Delphi is the OEM ( I think )

ICBW MWSIUA

James

One other thing.
Read this post:

http://www.s-10crewcab.com/phpBB2/viewt ... highlight=

about the line that tends to rub on the crew cabs. It's an easy fix if you catch it before it rubs thru.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:27 pm

Don't risk buying one from NAPA. Their pumps are poor. Junk may be more appropriate.

Buy Genuine AC Delco. Check Rockauto for good pricing.

Spend a little more and do it once, or go cheap and replace it over and over.

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:48 pm

HenryJ wrote:
killian96ss wrote:Walbro pumps are also very good!
I did not know they made a module for our truck. I have not seen one for our application. Do you have a link?

I'm sure there are more places to get them, but here is a link to FuelPumps.com

They do list pumps for the Crew Cab and the prices are pretty good!

Steve

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 7:14 pm

Thanks! Are you using one?
All my Walbro experience is with Karting. They were a good choice there.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sun Oct 19, 2008 9:46 pm

HenryJ wrote:Buy Genuine AC Delco. Check Rockauto for good pricing.

Is Delphi not the GM manufacturer for the fuel pump in our trucks?

James

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 7:52 am

HenryJ wrote:Thanks! Are you using one?
All my Walbro experience is with Karting. They were a good choice there.

Are you talking about go-karts, shifter karts etc.?

I have a high volume 255 lph Walbro in my SS and a factory type 90 something lph Walbro in my 88 S10.

The 255 lph pump is a very popular pump for a wide range of performance cars from high hp imports

to domestic race cars because it supports 700-800 hp and is very reliable.

I know a couple guys who run them in BMW's, Corvette's, and some factory type applications like Silverados etc. and they seem to hold up better than AC/Delco pumps.

From my experience with AC/Delco fuel pumps, they are actually pretty good pumps (about the same quality as Walbro pumps), and it seems like most of the failures are cause by high resistance in the wiring (undersized power and ground wires) which burn up the pumps and sometimes even the wiring and plugs inside the tank.

Whenever I put in a new fuel pump I also run some larger gauge power wires (spliced into the factory harness with their own fuse and hd relay) directly to the alternator, battery, or fuse box power terminal.

The stock harness still turns the fuel pump on and off while the spliced in power cables supply more voltage to the pump.

In some cases I have seen a 2-3 volt increase to the pump @ idle by doing this modification, although I'm more concerned about voltage as the rpms go up where I have seen the biggest problems occur.

The other type of failure is the one we we alll know about (lack of lubrication from running the fuel tank too low).

I get on my wife all the time about this one.

Walbro and AC/Delco are the only pumps I would use in any GM vehicle.

Steve

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:52 am

Rockauto lists Dephi FGO123 as the actual OEM for CREW CAB 4x4, $267.99. Their AC Delco pump does not list Crew Cab application.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:22 am

Horsehammerr wrote:Rockauto lists Dephi FGO123 as the actual OEM for CREW CAB 4x4, $267.99. Their AC Delco pump does not list Crew Cab application.

I see the AC Delco pump available for all the years I checked. The crew cab is not listed separately from what I have seen.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:34 am

I think the Delphi part number for the crew cab is FG0248 but I could be wrong (again).

James

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:26 am

There may be a difference in the steel and plastic fuel tanks requiring a different module. Check the part number for your application specifically.

I also see one listed for those with the fuel gauge PCM reflash. That may be something to consider in your selection as well.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 12:40 am

Sorry I did mean Delphi not Dephi. I was hoping someone who has changed the pump would have the part # available. Most listing on line are very iffy.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 4:06 am

Does anyone have the part # for the fuel pump for '02 CC with steel tank ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 5:58 am

Horsehammerr wrote:Does anyone have the part # for the fuel pump for '02 CC with steel tank ?

Rockauto.com is a good place to look up numbers.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:04 am

I thought I read about someone in the past cutting an access hole in the rear floor for Fuel Pump work. I've searched but can't seem to find the information ? Anyone know about this ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:45 am

The fuel pump is not under the bed it is under the back of the cab. Cutting would require cutting through a support structure. Dropping the tank is not all that bad, and much easier that cutting up the cab.

Looking for Measurements from a fuel pump inside the module

HenryJ wrote:
tomtk wrote:I am going to cut an access panel into the cab floor and have a friend in a Detroit sheet metal shop make me a bolt in cover for it to regain cab stiffness in the area.

I will be able to fold rear seat forward and remove plate and pull module up and out quickly.
Nice thought, but not an option. Look closer at where the module resides in relation to the cab. A quick look between the cab and bed shows mine to be partially behind the cab. Not only would you have to cut through a structural portion of the cab support structure, it would be futile as the module would not be under the cab. It would hit the pinch weld of the back and not come out.
Just as well as I can not imagine trying to get the electrical connections, retention ring and lines loose through a hole in the cab , behind the rear seat.

Dropping the driveshaft, draining the fuel and dropping the tank is not all that bad a job. After the fourth or fifth time it gets easier

Hope you guys don't learn the hard way about changing pumps and not the whole module. I have been there and done that. Thought I was really saving money...NOT. I just got the pleasure of repeating the job, over and over.
I learned my lesson a long time ago. Now I bite the bullet and buy a good complete module. Treated right by using the top half of the tank, good fuel and regular treatments of cleaner, they last another 100k miles like the stock one.

Just another opinion, and you know what else everyone has, so take it for what that is worth.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 12:12 pm

I already discovered that when I pulled the tank. I still think there is someone who knows the part number for the fuel pump for an '02 CC with steel tank. There is no reference to steel or plastic by any parts co. online. Or I'm just missing something.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 1:14 pm

I think that I would just use the '01 part number. They were all metal tanks that year, they switched mid '02. I went crazy ordering one piece brush/grille guards for four '99 Tahoes. 4 different sets just wouldn't mount up. Turns out they changed bodies 1/2 way thru '99

I ordered some for a '98 and bam, I had four sets installed in an hour and a half!

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sat Oct 25, 2008 10:33 pm

I put a Delphi FG0070 in my wifes 2001 crew. It was sold to me as being OEM. I have no way of proving that. I can't answer the question about if it will fit the '02.

James

jayhawkclint · Post by **jayhawkclint** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 6:42 pm

Get the Delphi!!! I bought an Airtex and it lasted me exactly 17 days.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:09 am

DONE!

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 11:26 am

f9k9 wrote:Not good! This is a situation where oem parts are needed. I witnessed first hand how an aftermarket pump took a dump several miles from the end of a trail. It sux, I know, but, we are saddled with this one.

Mine went out 45 miles from home. With AAA, it still cost me $95 for the tow.

gofast505 · Post by **gofast505** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 11:05 am

All of a sudden my truck is not fireing up on a half turn of the ignition, the second it is right there. Also at higher speeds, like 75, everyone once in a while its like the truck momentarily shuts off. Classic fuel pump problem?

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:33 am

HenryJ wrote:Don't risk buying one from NAPA. Their pumps are poor. Junk may be more appropriate.

Buy Genuine AC Delco. Check Rockauto for good pricing.

Spend a little more and do it once, or go cheap and replace it over and over.

Couldn't agree more. I had to do mine last year. What sucked the most was I lived in an Apartment complex and had to have it done at a shop.

$780 later and all is well. They used the Delco. figure it's a bear of a job, better to do it right the first time.
\
Up side to the deal is, if you're having any guage issues, this will take care of that too.

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:24 pm

In the parking lot at work today the fuel pump on my 03 CC took a crap at 128k. I'm assuming it's the fuel pump because I do not have fuel pressure at the nipple under the hood & I do not hear the fuel pump turn on...no "buzz"sound. Go figure, during lunch break I filled the tank up so I have a full tank to empty before I start the work.

Rock Auto has two part numbers listed. Delphi, FG0123, Actual OEM part & the ACDELCO Robust Module, MU1773.

I've gathered enough info from fellow CC owner to avoid the aftermarket pumps. Thank you for your postings.

Where should I drop the $$, the Delphi or ACDelco?

Should I drop the the tank or lift the cab?

Thank you.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:36 pm

Drop the tank. you can pull the filler hose and siphon the fuel out.

I can not advise on which assembly may be the best choice since I have not examined the differences personally. Maybe another with first hand experience can be a better judge of the BEST choice.

kwalsh · Post by **kwalsh** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 12:18 pm

Thanks for the feedback HenryJ.

I ordered the Delphi OE pump and after jacking the truck up, removal of the fuel tank doesn't seem so bad.

border man · Post by **border man** » Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:17 pm

I've done the swap several times now, and have it down to just over an hour. Longest part of the process is getting the fuel out. I too, had a full tank when it happened. Worst part was that I was on temporary duty in New Mexico and only had a small assortment of my tools with me. I had to buy four 5 gallon fuel jugs

Anyways, take your fuel tank vent line or filler line off at the tank, and siphon through there before dropping the tank. When dropping the tank, lower it at an angle(rear first) and disconnect the hard plastic fuel lines before dropping it completely(those lines kink easily). DO NOT BUY THE AUTOZONE PUMPS

. I am on my third pump, I immediately got the check engine light after install, so I dropped the tank again to check my work, switched pumps nothing. Have been putting up with it since, waiting on my current replacement to die before ordering the OEM pump.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 6:58 pm

Guess what happened to me today...

Eight years ten months and 83,874 miles. Driving home and out of the blue it just died. No warning signs. I treated it well as I rarely see below half a tank of fuel and try to give it a maintenance dose of cleaner periodically.

I had this sort of thing happen once before , so I quickly swapped the ignition coils. No go. Next I bypassed the MSD, still no go. I did suspect the fuel pump as it is a "usual suspect". Kicking the tank did no good. I could hear no buzz or whirr, so I was pretty sure I was hosed. Towed in for the second time in its life. Once home I tested the fuel pressure. It read 0. Touching the relay I confirmed it did click when the ignition turns on. I swapped it just to make sure and checked all the fuses.

JaVeRo wrote:I put a Delphi FG0070 in my wifes 2001 crew. It was sold to me as being OEM.

That was the story I got too. It is not. My stock pump is AC. It is very close and the parts guy swears the Delphi bought AC Delco. I don't know about that. The AC Delco pumps were plug-n-play, the Delphi pump requires cutting the wires and splicing in a new connector. I don't like that

It is Saturday and there is no AC Delco dealer open. I had a choice of three cheap pumps, Carter (BAD choice) , Autozone (never heard of their brand before), and I assume Shucks / O'Rileys had Bosch.
My price for the Delphi at NAPA was better than I could get through Rockauto for the same pump, so I went that way.
The Delphi DFP FG0070 pump was $332. I had $30 in gift certificates. That was further incentive to go this route.
Comparing the two they are similar. The fuel hose is smaller on the new pump. The basket differs a little. wiring and senders were very similar.

I was not having problems with my fuel gauge, but it looks like I was not far from them. The fingers on my sender were twisted and worn. Definitely not far from failure.

The inside of the tank was pretty clean. Even though I blew off around the pump before removal, I got some debris in the tank. Watch that edge on the inside lip of the fuel tank. It cut / scraped my arm several times while cleaning the tank out with a rag. Enough to draw blood. Not enough to bandage though.
With all the extra running, lunch, and that skid plate removal it took nearly five hours from the tow to being back in service.
I guess I'm glad it happened like this in town. There are much less convenient places it could have happened.

Guess I'm one of the "new" pump club members now. Not a club to aspire to, but eventually we all get to join.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:05 am

Welcome !!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:06 am

Can't wait till I join (insert sarcasm).

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:18 am

fallvitals wrote:Can't wait till I join (insert sarcasm).

Start saving your dues now. $350 with out planning for it can be a tough pill to swallow.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:12 am

Brule, how full was the tank when the pump died? Were you able to siphon off the fuel before dropping it? Did the BL help in anyway?

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:22 am

Got my spare on hand ready and waiting. I can't prove it but I was told Delphi makes the pumps AC Delco sells as OEM new. $90.00 when I got mine but I see they have went up slightly. However the seller has included free shipping at that price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-FUEL ... ccessories
Over 100k now and gauge hasn't worked for about 15-20k so it's only a matter of time.

Sonoma GT · Post by **Sonoma GT** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:44 am

The AC Delco pumps were plug-n-play, the Delphi pump requires cutting the wires and splicing in a new connector. I don't like that

The Bosch pump that I installed a few months back was plug and play.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 11:42 am

f9k9 wrote:...how full was the tank when the pump died?

I had about 7/8 of a full tank. Murphys law says it always happens on a full tank. Mine is never under half, so It was inevitable.

Were you able to siphon off the fuel before dropping it?

I did. I used a 3/8" ID hose to siphon out a good 13 gallons or so. Two five gallon cans over filled and part of a six gallon can.

Did the BL help in anyway?

I think so. It gave me a little more room to disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors.

The tank skid added some work, but not too much. I took the four bolts that go through the frame for the front bracket off and left the front tank strap and bracket attached. The bolt behind the E-brake cable was a PITA, but a 15mm ratchet-swivel end wrench made it tolerable. Then one bolt to take loose the rear tank strap. It comes down really pretty easy. I left the driveshaft in the transfercase so I didn't lose any fluid. There was enough room to sit up between it and the tank to get the lines loose.
Before all this I took the clamp loose for the filler hose at the filler neck closest to the cap. The vent tube could be taken off here too. Mine is T-eed for the auxiliary tank so I took it loose there. All this was accessible from under the left fender flap.

Dropping the tank is definitely the way to go. It gives you the chance to clean everything us and tip the tank back a forth to get the crumbs.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:05 pm

Great info!!! I guess that I am gun shy of the fuel and electrical connections after all the horror stories on heep fuel tanks. I was a nervous wreck doing my tank skid install because it required removing the tank and strapping it inside skid.

Good to know that the gas can be removed too! I get a big laugh now when I see locking gas caps on a heep. There is no way to siphon gas from one. Tried for over an hr in broad daylight and couldn't do it!

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:06 pm

Just curious if you looked at the evap hoses shown it the pictures in this threadand if they were rubbing.
James

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 6:18 pm

JaVeRo wrote:Just curious if you looked at the evap hoses shown it the pictures in this threadand if they were rubbing.

2" body lift on mine, so no rubbing and more clearance.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 7:55 pm

Thanks,

James

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:59 pm

There may be something to this connector replacement: Chevrolet fuel pump failure

Chevrolet fuel pump failures are a common and growing problem. These defective fuel pumps can cause a stalling condition or a no start problem.

This is most common on Chevrolet truck models from 1996 to 2003 model years. You can go on any automotive forum and see people discussing this far-reaching problem.

Replacement of the fuel pump is not a quick or easy job due to the fact that the pump is in tank mounted and the fuel pump is replaced as a unit. The replacement parts for the job are also not inexpensive.

To make matters worse, what I have seen are repeat failures of the replacement unit. I have experienced this myself and again I have seen it many a times on popular automotive repair forums.

The original Chevy pump motor has a life expectancy of about 15-20 years.

Running the vehicle out of fuel, which will actually run the pump in a dry state, can shorten this. Gasoline is a petroleum product and actually lubricates the inside of the fuel pump.

The more you run the vehicle low on fuel or out of fuel, the more damage will occur and the quicker the pump will fail.

When you buy the replacement parts from Delco, which is the recommended procedure. They will sell you a fuel pump module. This factory replacement unit also includes the fuel level gauge sender, hanger assembly and tank filter.

Most aftermarket replacement pumps just include the motor itself. This means that you just replace the motor and transfer over the used fuel pump stock, fuel sending unit, and hanger assembly. This process leaves more room for error and is also a large cause of repeat failures.

But I have experienced repeat failures, even when using the direct expensive replacement Delco fuel pump module. I found a technical service bulletin that addresses just this problem.

TSB wrote:The technical service bulletin that explains the cause of the repeat failure of the Chevy fuel pump replacement unit covers all years from 1996 to 2003 and includes all of the pickup trucks, Tahoe and suburban and their GMC counterparts such as the sierra and envoy. Oh and don't forget the Cadillac Escalade is also included.

The Chevrolet service bulletin states that the cause of the repeat failures is due to worn or damaged electrical connectors at the fuel pump assembly. When you get the Delco replacement parts it comes with a new connector on the fuel pump side.

The problem is the connector on the vehicle side of the harness. Chevrolet states that this connector needs to be replaced along with the fuel pump assembly.
Failure to replace the electrical connector on the harness side will cause an excessive voltage drop across the new fuel pump that over time will damage the new replacement part.

Replacement of the harness connector is a fairly simple operation and the parts are readily available from your GM dealer parts department.

With the cost and difficulty of the repair, it is wise to follow this technical service bulletin and take a few extra minutes to replace the connector. In my own personal experience I have had no comebacks since employing this new procedure.

I am feeling better about changing that connector now.

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:40 pm

I did it....

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:52 pm

I guess I'll add to this topic again!

My Autozone pump went out again, this time after being in service for a year and a half. Got a call from my daughter's school nurse, had to pick her up. I got two blocks away before it died on the freeway off-ramp

This time its OEM delphi? FG0070 like HenryJ put in his as this is available locally (NAPA $354) and it need it YESTERDAY!. Not much difference vs. Rockauto +/- $30.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jan 13, 2010 5:58 pm

Be prepared to change the connector. The industry is placing the blame for the pump failures there. The larger terminals can't hurt. Time will tell if that is indeed the solution.

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:06 pm

I changed the connector when I bought the first chinese pump two years ago. I guess I''ll change it again for good measure.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jan 13, 2010 7:07 pm

Oh! It is probably ok as long as it matches then.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:07 pm

Well one year and three months on my $141.99 World-AutoParts "hot deal" fuel pump. I'm going to check out the connector first.

But, I did locate the AC Delco MU1751 GM part # 19177238 Pump at OEMPartsGarage.com for $314.76. I haven't inquired about shipping yet, but it is ,according to my Vin.# through local dealer parts man , the right part.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:50 pm

killian96ss wrote:
HenryJ wrote:Thanks! Are you using one?
All my Walbro experience is with Karting. They were a good choice there.
Are you talking about go-karts, shifter karts etc.?

I have a high volume 255 lph Walbro in my SS and a factory type 90 something lph Walbro in my 88 S10.

The 255 lph pump is a very popular pump for a wide range of performance cars from high hp imports to domestic race cars because it supports 700-800 hp and is very reliable.

I know a couple guys who run them in BMW's, Corvette's, and some factory type applications like Silverados etc. and they seem to hold up better than AC/Delco pumps.

From my experience with AC/Delco fuel pumps, they are actually pretty good pumps (about the same quality as Walbro pumps), and it seems like most of the failures are cause by high resistance in the wiring (undersized power and ground wires) which burn up the pumps and sometimes even the wiring and plugs inside the tank.

Whenever I put in a new fuel pump I also run some larger gauge power wires (spliced into the factory harness with their own fuse and hd relay) directly to the alternator, battery, or fuse box power terminal.

The stock harness still turns the fuel pump on and off while the spliced in power cables supply more voltage to the pump.

In some cases I have seen a 2-3 volt increase to the pump @ idle by doing this modification, although I'm more concerned about voltage as the rpms go up where I have seen the biggest problems occur.

The other type of failure is the one we we alll know about (lack of lubrication from running the fuel tank too low).

I get on my wife all the time about this one.

Walbro and AC/Delco are the only pumps I would use in any GM vehicle.

Steve

Would it be worth doing this larger wire mod on a pump that is going off and then back on ? Could that be happening because of too low of power to the pump ? If this could help , can I get some more details on how you did this ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:56 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:Would it be worth doing this larger wire mod on a pump that is going off and then back on ?

No. The stock wire is big enough for the stock pump.

Could that be happening because of too low of power to the pump ?

Yes. Due to the connector. Read the TSB above. The thin connector terminals are what they are blaming for the low voltage. That will not necessarily cause an intermittent failure. It can contribute to the pumps demise though.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:43 am

Any Idea what to look at for the cause of this intermittent failure ?

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:44 am

A bad fuel pump.

JaVeRo · Post by **JaVeRo** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 6:13 am

Just a shot in the dark.

I had a 98 Suburban company truck that the fuel pump went out and was replaced at the dealer. A few days later it quit again on the jobsite. We loaded it on the trailer and took it back. At the dealer it cranked right up. They kept it a few hours but couldn't duplicate the problem.

It did that a couple more times over the next few days. I decided I was gonna replace that pump myself. I dropped the tank a little ways and reached over it to unplug it. I don't remember exactly what the plug looked like but it had two sets of ears, tabs or catches (whatever them doodads are called). One catch or pair of catches released the plug and the other set would actually let you take the plug apart.

Since I couldn't see the plug I was trying to release the wrong tabs. When I figured out my error, I finally pulled the right tabs or ears and got it unplugged. After getting the plug down where I could see it, I put it back together making sure the ears latched and tightened the straps up. Problem solved. The mechanic at the dealer must have done the same thing I did and partially separated the plug.

It's been a few years since I put a fuel pump on the CC so I don't remember what the plug looked like. It might be worth checking.

James

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:26 am

I got my tank back out . After I read about the " HIGH " quality feed plug on our low bidder product, I decided not to chance it. I go to some very out in the woods places. I went to Napa and bought a new plug with pigtail for $12.95, american made. Oh I know I should have bit the bullet andgot an AC Delco plug , BUT they can shove their $ 131.00 plug DEEP !!

My original plug looked good and solid, but according to the GM report they are under built for long lasting use. My new pump will be here next Tuesday and all will be good again. Weather permitting !

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:48 am

Doesn't the new pump come with the pigtail? Mine did.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Thu Jan 28, 2010 11:03 am

I'm not sure

I guess if it does I can get my $13 back or just have a spare

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 9:26 am

I just pulled my connector wires out of the shield chevy put them in and see that the gauge of wire in the original is way smaller on two wires. My new connector has the big size for all four. Won't going from small to large cause resistance in power flow. In liquid that will increase pressure, but reduce volume. What about with electricity?

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 11:52 am

Horsehammerr wrote:Won't going from small to large cause resistance in power flow.

No small to large offers less resistance than maintaining the same smaller diameter.

In liquid that will increase pressure, but reduce volume.

Just the opposite. Going from small to large decreases pressure due the the increased volume.

What about with electricity?

Water and electricity do work in similar ways. Your analogy is sound. Keep in mind the length of the run. A short neck down in size and back up offers little measurable resistance, just as a small increase in size offers little change as long as the length of that transition is short.

Keep the demand in mind for this application. No sense running 2" pipe is a dribble is all you need. Most of the stock wiring is in an acceptable size for the load.

In this case the terminal size is being blamed. I am not sure if that is indeed the case as I have not measured, nor see actual testing across the connector. Bigger can't hurt though as long as the splices made are sound and you do not create another problem there.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 1:16 pm

Gotcha, I do understand the wire part. I thought about what I had said about the liquid flow and realized I'd said exactly the opposite of what I thought I meant to say.

Thanks for sitting me straight.

Anyway, I will be making these splices with solder and shrink wraps before I put the wires back in the shield. Our little Southern Plains 10" snow storm slowed the UPS delivery one day so hopefully tomorrow I'll be back on the road.

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 01, 2010 1:18 pm

Keep us informed as to the results. It helps the next guy loads.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 3:38 pm

New AC Delco # MU1751 fuel pump came today.

The connector that fits the connection on it is NOT like original. Instead of four prongs in a square connector it has four in horizontal elongated connector. Well after calling Tech and getting straight on which wire is which, I got the new connector installed. Sure looks like a lot stronger and beefier fitting. A little to icy and wet to crawl under and stuff the tank back in tonight. Always tomorrow with these extra unemployment hours on hand.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Feb 02, 2010 4:21 pm

Horsehammerr wrote:...I got the new connector installed. Sure looks like a lot stronger and beefier fitting.

That is what we were describing when referring to a new connector. It is indeed different and uses larger terminal contacts.
BTW. I think this is the same connector used on the later model fullsize as well.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Feb 03, 2010 2:14 pm

Well, ok it's all back together and works just like it used to.

Now lets see if this new connector makes it last 15-20 years like Chevy says it's supposed to.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:29 pm

Today at work, I found another problem relating to fuel pumps. We have a 98 2500 GMC pickup that has been giving us fuel pump trouble. After installing a new pump, the truck ran for about a week before laying down again. after replacing the relay, it ran for a few more days and it quit again. while checking the relay, we found athat the connector in the underhood electrical box had overheated and lost contact. It melted the the plastic under the relay so bad that we are have to cut out the plastic under the relay and replace it with a pigtail that will accept the relay.

S-10CREWCAB.NET

Fuel Pump Stopped *solved (new pump w/connector)

Fuel Pump Stopped *solved (new pump w/connector)

Think this is fuel pump?

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