Battery Brain

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:04 pm

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:52 pm

I like that idea. I ordered a Platinum model to do a little field testing with. Looks like these are adjustable versus the ones in emergency services catalogs that are a tad higher in change. I ordered it from nearby but, it looks like they hammered me in shipping and tax. Still $40 off msrp!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:01 pm

I'll be watching. I have thought about these several times.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:20 pm

HenryJ wrote:I'll be watching..........

I am trying out this for a couple of ridiculous reasons.

1. A club member, who is a manager at a local parts chain store, assured me that returns have almost dropped to 0 on Optimas purchased in the last 18 months and he gave me a killer deal on a red top. Yeah I know, mistake #1.

2. I yanked the fuse for my dome lights in the heep due to running without doors. This also eliminated the buzzer for when the lights are left on with ignition off. Therefore I already have shortened the red top's lifespan and cannot give it a decent review! I am going with a cut off switch for the dome light next yr.

3. There is a big debate going on with all kinds of tech talk of solenoids and high amp fuses for preventing thugs from screwing with winches. I am sitting back and just thinking about your battery cut off mod. $15 and be done with it.

I will keep you up to date.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 5:42 pm

Mine arrived today but, I am a tad perplexed. You have a choice of making sure that it is armed (will not start) and disarmed (will start). Both of those will keep voltage going to the clock and ecm. Then the remote has a button to fully disconnect and that would cut off all juice and you would lose your radio channels and any SES/MIL codes would be cleared. It has a buzzer to verify that it is on or off.

What is confusing me is that it has a vibration sensor that needs to be placed on a plastic part of the engine or intake. All the instructions are well written and everything explained EXCEPT the purpose of a vibration sensor. Anyone have a clue why it is needed?

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:34 pm

f9k9 wrote:... everything explained EXCEPT the purpose of a vibration sensor. Anyone have a clue why it is needed?

So it can not disconnect with the engine running?
That might fry an alternator.

border man · Post by **border man** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:35 pm

Tampering?

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 6:51 pm

Brule has it right, it's to keep it from shutting down while engine is running without it it could shut off when at a light in idle if you were drawing a lot of juice.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:37 pm

04crewvt wrote:Brule has it right, it's to keep it from shutting down while engine is running without it it could shut off when at a light in idle if you were drawing a lot of juice.

I did think of that but, remember bone head moves that I have performed in the past.

I have been known to remove a battery, while keeping the engine running, to make a core return. It's been a decade or more since I did that.

I was also concerned how heavy amp draw will affect it. It is allegedly rated for 1100 amps. During heavy winching the battery might drop below the cut off volt setting of 11.8 and throw a wrench into the fray. The install looks easy but, will probably draw the usual stray flock of ducks to my location. Hopefully the pool's cover will prevent any accidental drownings.

Going on a ride this Sat on a couple of rough trails and I should have it installed by them. We'll see.