Brake pads, lines and system discussion

[Horsehammerr]

At 101k my fronts were on the verg of metal to metal, the rears were 2/3 gone. I simply cleaned everything up, lubed my pins and put Werner Thermo ceramic pads on. Everything worked better than any brake system I have used and made me understand that my brakes were not so good before. This little sucker stops smooth and in total control wet or dry or snow with very little effort. I tried a speed test on open SAFE road at 60mph, clamped down hard, dead stop in 94 feet. I LIKE !!

[BDiefAZ]

The best brake upgrade I have done is the SS braided teflon hoses to replace the 5 stock hoses. It really firms up the pedal and seems to shorten braking distances. We are running these hoses on all of our cars and trucks and really enjoy the enhanced braking.

In my opinion, the best braking upgrade you can do.

[roadrunner]

I'll continue to use stock rotors on my CC as they seem to be the best suited to my particular driving application. As to pads my preference after having used numerous different types and brands is the Bendix MKD series (full metalic/titaniumcoated/heavy duty). They have proven in my usage to outlast by nearly 2 to 1 the next best and out-perform them as well. I've even contacted several brake pad manufacturers including Bendix and put forth my particular application problems to them and they have all told me "there is no higher quality pad available for my situation than the particular pad of theirs I have tried or am using". Pads don't last long for me on the CC. If I get 20k out of the fronts and 8-10k out of the rears that's about it. I have gotten as little as 2k out of a set of rears and they were clear down to the metal on all 4 rear pads. These were some of the poorer quality pads I tried. On a side note please don't lecture me about other parts of the system causing early wear as I check and or replace or flush as needed and keep on hand new calipers (all 4) new caliper mounts (all 4) hardware kits (also all 4) new guide pins (full set for all 4 wheels) spare wheel bearings and rotors as well as brake hoses. I do this because the parts stores around here are a: high priced and b: usually don't stock the parts I need not to mention when I need them I want them immediately not tomorrow and due to not many S10 CCs in this area they are reluctant or some refuse to stock them for my truck. The only reason I don't keep a new master cyl or booster on hand is mileage and age of the truck. I may adjust this also as the truck ages.
On my Buick however I am running drilled front rotors and also the Bendix MKD pads and that combination is performing admirably both longevity and braking ability-wise. On second set of pads on those rotors and no signs of any cracking yet. Rears there are drum and doing fine.
Not saying everyone should run out and buy these brands/types of brakes. Just saying they are what is working best for me in my usage and man, I've tried LOTS of different combinations.

The best brake upgrade I have done is the SS braided teflon hoses to replace the 5 stock hoses.

Where you buying these? I've been looking for something like this and haven't found a "reasonable" source. I don't mean cheap but one clown quoted me $75 per hose. I may want em but I ain't that desperate!

[BDiefAZ]

I had the hoses made at classictube.com

Great products and excellent service.

I would recommend measuring the hoses prior to ordering, that is how I know they have excellent service. My truck is a ZR2, listed with a 3" lift, they made them an extra 3" longer, they gladly changed the length of the hose without charge.

[F9K9]

.................. If I get 20k out of the fronts and 8-10k out of the rears that's about it. I have gotten as little as 2k out of a set of rears and they were clear down to the metal on all 4 rear pads.............

WTF are you doing on a regular basis. Something is truly amiss here. I have never heard of rear pads going out first. I thought it was a universal rule like fuel is lighter than water. The front pads are doing the majority of the braking. Do you have any ABS related codes? The least amount of miles I ever got out of front pads was 4K and that was on a law enforcement packaged Tahoe and the conditions were extreme.

[roadrunner]

WTF are you doing on a regular basis. Something is truly amiss here. I have never heard of rear pads going out first. The front pads are doing the majority of the braking. Do you have any ABS related codes? The least amount of miles I ever got out of front pads was 4K and that was on a law enforcement packaged Tahoe and the conditions were extreme.

No codes. Other than that pesky "low no pedal" problem in another post on rough or rutted roads no other problems either.
Here is how I explained it to the brake engineers at Bendix and others: the majority of my driving with the CC is in wet/muddy conditions. Problem is around here they put "sand" on the roads instead of gravel. 95% or more of my miles are on that type of road. Net result there is a LOT of silica-sand rich slurry of mud which is being dumped on the pads constantly. To top that off the soil type here is also high silica content.
This is where they informed "no pad is designed to stand up under those conditions". To date I haven't devised a way to divert the mud from being splattered into the calipers after getting picked up by the wide flat part of the aluminum/stock five spoke wheels. If I don't clean the residual mud out of the wheels immediately or conditions cause it to dry before I can then the dried mud/sand mix takes out the boots on the guide pins and lets moisture in there adding to the problems. I am currently looking into having caliper mount brackets drilled to the outside and fitted with grease zerks so I can grease them often without even taking the wheels off (thru the spokes) and trying to figure out how to "shield" the pin boots. I know these problems are rather specific to my driving and usage but I have little choice in that matter. No driving=no job=no pay.

[HenryJ]

I would get away from the semi metallic and go back to ceramic pads.
I run a fleet in worse conditions than you can imagine. The ceramic pads do better in the offroad conditions than others. Try the NAPA brand CMX pads.

I would not drill the calipers for grease zerks, nor the pins. Weakening them is not a good idea. The next issue is that you would need to find silicone brake lubricant in a tube for a grease gun. It may exist, but I have not seen it.
Lube the pins. Use good boots and replace them if needed. Contaminants should not enter in your 20k intervals.

I am with Reed here. Something is not right, somewhere. If you are truly having problems this bad with your crewcab, I would sell it and find something that will give you better service. 8-10k miles is not an acceptable service life for brakes, IMO. Shop for a vehicle with better suited systems.

[roadrunner]

I would get away from the semi metallic and go back to ceramic pads.
I run a fleet in worse conditions than you can imagine. The ceramic pads do better in the offroad conditions than others. Try the NAPA brand CMX pads.
I would not drill the calipers for grease zerks, nor the pins. Weakening them is not a good idea. The next issue is that you would need to find silicone brake lubricant in a tube for a grease gun. It may exist, but I have not seen it.
Lube the pins. Use good boots and replace them if needed. Contaminants should not enter in your 20k intervals.
I am with Reed here. Something is not right, somewhere. If you are truly having problems this bad with your crewcab, I would sell it and find something that will give you better service. 8-10k miles is not an acceptable service life for brakes, IMO. Shop for a vehicle with better suited systems.

Tried the ceramic from NAPA and GM and Two other sources all =1/3-1/2 the life of the metallics so, No to that one.
Not drilling calipers or pins, just the mounting bracket they hook onto. Not going to be large holes either. only 1/8" or less dia except where zerk is installed. The silicone grease and gun are no problem. I have a "reloadable gun, just a matter of what I load it with.
All things are relative. I can imagine some extremely bad conditions and have driven in some as well. You know you're in trouble when you have to go to Lo4 and Lo gear and run red-line for 1/2-3/4 miles moving at only actual ground speed of 4mph or less to get your a** out of a jam.
I've replaced the pin boots more times than I can remember and no they won't make it 20k for me here. Not on the rear for sure and not always on the front either.
I've considered the replace the vehicle route as well. One problem FINANCES dictate I am unable to for at least three years yet and my job requires I use the CC when weather is too bad for any other vehicle.
I have discussed this problem with other "wheelers" in the area and the general consensus is that the main reason the S10 rears go out so often for me is the placement of the caliper on the front side of the axle instead of the rear side like other brands. This leads to the wheel "dumping" contaminates on the caliper instead of forward of it. Don't know if this is true but others with calipers mounted on the back side of the rear axle are not having the type trouble I am so who knows. I am unaware of any way to move them to the rear of the axle without considerable welding/machine work either.

[F9K9]

!. I am no way doubting your findings or conditions.
2. Can you link these findings to the forums that they have been discussed in? I am a member in several of them but only active in four. I just need to see what conditions yielded rear pads going out at under 10K. This is really puzzling me. I do not doubt you but, there are some serious problems going on to cause this to happen.

The Tahoe I mentioned eating a set in 4K was because I had an emergency run across 3 southeast KY counties, when shots were fired at some coworkers. They wanted my dog there fast. No doubt I smoked them and they were less than 3 days old.

ABS is over my head but, the proportioning valving is what comes up in my head and I am a moron in these matters.

[roadrunner]

Reed, When I said I discussed this problem with other "wheelers" in the area I meant literally other guys who live here or near here. I don't know if any of them are members or visitors to the forums. This was a direct person to person contact situation locally. Some are capable auto techs as well. Some are just drivers/users of 4x4s.
I don't think you are doubting me and wouldn't be concerned if you did. What is is. No need to prove anything to anybody. Just stating what has been happening for me personally so my experience in this is actual and not anecdotal.
The only other possible solution I can come up with is to retrofit drum rear brakes to my truck. I don't know how or if this would work with ABS or if that would have to be removed/disabled to work properly. I am out of other ideas and have simply resigned myself to frequent pad replacement. That's the main reason I keep so many brake parts on hand for the truck.

[F9K9]

............. That's the main reason I keep so many brake parts on hand for the truck.

I am on your side so, try to keep that in mind. I am really puzzled by this. Something else is involved here. Let's just sleep on this issue and maybe you can do some sort of write up on the problem. There is a former GM engineer on USAZR2.com and there are many other gurus out there, that may be able to help. Your problem is just wrong on so many levels. I bet if, you write it all out for us that Brule or Steve will come up with valid solutions to try.

[roadrunner]

I appreciate the thought Reed. Having discussed this problem with the engineers at Bendix, Hawk, and Raybestos to name a few and having all of them tell me the same basic thing I don't know if any of us here on the forum have the knowledge/experience to solve this one. I, like many others on this forum, am no slouch at wrenching either and I've never seen anything like this either in my professional career or private life.
There are oil field trucks that regularly work out here also and their brake life is shortened also although not as severely as mine. This is one of the reasons for my frustration. They can get 1 1/2 or 2 times the life I can in the same areas. Only difference is they are off-road even more than I am. Hence I figure they are exposed to mud but less silica sand content in that mud. Only explanation I can figure out in that situation.

[F9K9]

I do not accept thoughts like mud contents on this one. There is something wrong in a major way. I have to second Brule in recommending that you dump the rig for something like a used Toy or Nissan.

[roadrunner]

The "mud/sand/slurry" content is from the brake engineers not me. They all said it would be the same as running an abrasive bath with steel on one side and fibrous material on the other and applying clamping pressure while rotating same. All said no pads on earth can stand up in that situation. Their words not mine. Does make some sense though all other things being basicly equal. Also no problems with rear drum brakes on two other vehicles on same roads or on third vehicle with rear disc and ABS that doesn't go on these roads but "lives" here as well. Also no discernable difference in how the ABS functions on the two vehicles that are so equiped.
As I told Brule earlier, finances dictate keeping the CC for 3 more years so I have to continue to repair and drive. On an unrelated note I unlocked the pass door with key this AM and the *&*$%## outer door handle is broken on the inside of the door now. Almost pulled the thing off the truck without realizing it.

[F9K9]

You're the one experiencing your particular road conditions. If, you would like, write me up something and I will ask the ZR2 god. I do not ever look at his thread but, would post your problem in this case.

[roadrunner]

You want it on forum or as pm? Let me know which and I'll post it tomorrow afternoon. Gettin late on me here and I gotta get up at 6am tomorrow. Old geezers like me need some rest from time to time.

[F9K9]

You want it on forum or as pm? Let me know which and I'll post it tomorrow afternoon. Gettin late on me here and I gotta get up at 6am tomorrow. Old geezers like me need some rest from time to time.

I am probably older than you but, either a PM or here is good.

[green02crew]

I have been told that the calipers are not in the best location as well. Sometimes the rear brakes might wear oddly due to their location but going through brakes that fast seems unreasonable to me.

[roadrunner]

I am probably older than you but, either a PM or here is good.

Will try tomorrow. Spent all afternoon and evening till 10pm wrenching on car and pickup tonight. Not for fun just emergency repairs. Never rains but though it pours. If you're older than me then you must be callin dirt sonny or maybe watched God create it! I ain't no spring chicken anymore either. Just like to think like one.

I have been told that the calipers are not in the best location as well. Sometimes the rear brakes might wear oddly due to their location but going through brakes that fast seems unreasonable to me.

I've been considering either mud flaps in odd places or possibly scraper/deflectors ahead of the calipers but haven't settled on locations or designs yet. Workin on it though.
The most "unreasonable" part is paying for all those pads! Not that pulling and replacing them is any fun either but at least I've gotten faster at it from so much practice.

[roadrunner]

Okay Reed, here we go.
Vehicle: 2001 CC LS, 5150GVW, ABS 4Wheel discs.
Purchased Sept 05 used. Know first owner personally. Vehicle was never off pavement while he had it. 59K miles when I got it. Immaculately clean inside, outside, and underneath as well.
My primary use of truck is mail route consisting of over 110 miles per day 95% sanded, dirt, and very little graveled. Speed seldom exceeds 50mph except on highway to and from post office.
After-purchase inspection revealed front brakes (originals) at 40% fronts 30% rears.
For the sake of brevity pin boots and clips replaced every time pads were replaced.
Nov 05 62K scraping in rear=all 4 rear pads gone, replaced with NAPA ceramics.
Late Nov 05 64K scraping in rear=all 4 rear pads gone again NAPA warrantied pads.
Jan 06 68K all pads gone all 4 wheels installed Autozone ceramics replaced all 4 calipers system flushed. GM code check on brake system NO CODES.
Feb 07 75K fronts 40% rears gone Bendix rears installed new mtg brackets and guide pins all 4.
"New Problem presents" Low or No Brake Pedal" after bouncing around on rough or rutted roads. Bled system checked all areas of system-no change or effect from attempted service.
June 07 80K all 4 wheels pads gone again Bendix installed all 4. Replaced all brake hoses. Swithced out mtgs and calipers in attempt to eliminate/change low/no pedal situation. No change put calipers & mounts back on. GM scan again shows no brake codes.
Nov 07 82K replace all pin boots as abrasion has rubbed holes in them & water is beginning to cause rusting of pins. Fronts 50% rears 40%.
April 08 84K Fronts 35% rears 15%. Abrasion has again ruined pin boots replaced all 4 wheels. Will need to replace pads within 3-4 weeks depending on weather and usage.
The only reason there are some odd gaps in time in this list is I have adopted the strategy of using a car on the mail route as much as possible and only now use the truck when weather or breakdowns force it. I simply can't afford to do otherwise. Keep in mind this is only the brake problems. There have been numerous others as well. Some quite expensive.

Addendum: After reading the ZR2 thread on this subject I need to add I am using a high quality high-temp silicone grease for guide pins and any other needed locations on braking system. Also I am not melting any rubber parts on calipers. Only damage showing up there in that concern is clearly abrasion by buildup in stock aluminum wheels.

[HenryJ]

Rotors.

[F9K9]

Rotors.

I sincerely think that this is a strong possibility. I am thinking that the proportioning valving may be amiss. Jug has already posted up on ZR2 USA.com because he is having similar problems with a his BlaZeR2.

I am letting it run it's course in the appropriate section in their forum before posting in Mike's thread.

[Jigg]

Rotors.

Not the case for mine... they were replaced already.

[roadrunner]

Rotors.

Still originals. Smooth & no pedal pulsation or braking unevenness.

[roadrunner]

Rotors.

I sincerely think that this is a strong possibility. I am thinking that the proportioning valving may be amiss.

From what I understand of our ABS and prop valving it is sort of a cross-connected system. If so I don't think it likely one end or the other of the truck would suffer wear excessively compared to the other especially the rear compared excessively to the front. But perhaps my understanding is incorrect. Thoughts/knowledge anyone?

[HenryJ]

ZR2 USA thread

[F9K9]

ZR2 USA thread

Definitely a new train of thought for me to try to understand. If, this works I have a very large piece of humble pie to eat.

[rlrnr53]

After reading the ZR2 thread, I have to agree with the solution. I have seen pads cooked in only 40 miles after someone lengthened the rod on the master cyl, it doesn't take much. I think the rod mentioned above was only lenghtened by about one to one an a half turns.

[roadrunner]

Read the ZR2 thread. Will check it out. I've not messed with the booster rod length on it at all. It is still "at stock" at this point. Have serious doubts it is problem. Will keep an open mind though. Ill let you all know what test results are. Again thanks for all help and suggestions.

[roadrunner]

04/24/08 Update: Replaced rear pads (88k) fronts still 30% flushed fluid again. Did residual pressure check (per ZR2 thread) before and after. Results negative. Rotors still smooth and even. Will probably have to replace them from excessive wear in emergency brake portion. I seldom use it but it is required operational by my employer. Appears badly grooved from contamination by sand/gravel. Also replaced broken guide pin in Rt rear-lower. (replaced all in both wheels just stated above for reference on problems)

[Rockrz]

Anybody using slotted and drilled rotors?

I've heard these help keep the pads cooler and cleaner, or so they say.

I know the fancy high end cars usually have these like Vettes, etc.

[04crewvt]

Aftermarket Brake Rotors

[HenryJ]

Anybody using slotted and drilled rotors?

I've heard these help keep the pads cooler and cleaner, or so they say.

Big waste of money. The braking performance is poor on a daily driver. Stick with the stock rotors.

Aftermarket Brake Rotors

[roadrunner]

05/01/08 Update: Experiment #1 now in progress. Have made some home-built poly mud-flaps behind front wheels, at rear of cab, and behind rear wheels. I have observed that installing my 1" rear wheel spacers may have changed or possibly helped the rear problem. The calipers now run shallower in the wheel and the pin boots are actually outside the wheel inner diameter. Will advise of success/failure. Might be a while though.

[roadrunner]

10/25/08 Update: Mud flap experiment seems to be helping as does 1" rear wheel spacers. Replaced rear pads today at 97k miles. All 4 rear pads were gone. Nearly iron on iron. Caught em just in time! Boots and pins on all 4 wheels were free and lubed with no signs of contamination or rusting. Re-lubed them anyway. I did check out the booster rod per the ZR2 post. No problem found there. Shortened rod 1/64th of an inch anyway. Have noted however since doing this modification I no longer am experiencing the low/no pedal on rough roads syndrome. Coincidental perhaps but I ain't going to argue with success. Also nice to see boots on guide pins living longer now they don't run inside the wheel diameter. Front pads down to 15% useable but still hangin in there. I've got my eye on em though and spares waiting on the shelf.

[YellowCrewCabber]

I recently replaced my rear pads. This is the second set of rear pads I have put on this truck in the 120k miles I've owned it. Pretty darn good I think. This time I went with Wagner's from O'rielly's Autp Parts. Who will turn your rotors also. There is a lifetime warranty with the Wagner's and since I turned my rotors there, as long as I don't let them wear down metal to metal they will replace the pads free. I did have one pin that was a little stuck and rusted but it cleaned up okay. The little "boot" that seals it had two small holes in it. Replaced with a new one.

[roadrunner]

9/27/09 Update. 101k miles all rear pads near iron on iron again. Rotors smooth and no excess run-out. Front pads getting thin but still serviceable. Mud flaps and rear 1" spacers definitely helping on the rear pin-boot wear problem. No idea what to try for the quick rear pad wear problem any more. Just always keep spares on hand. At least the shortened booster rod seems to have solved the low/no pedal problem.

[JaVeRo]

My wife runs a mail route with her crew cab and gets about equal wear for the front and rear brakes. About 45-50 miles is dirt road. I really think part of your problem may be the proportioning valve.

If you have access to an infrared thermometer (or whatever that doodad is called) you may be able to check the difference in temperature of the front and rear rotors while you are on the route. No experience with it but just common sense would say they should be about the same.

James

[roadrunner]

My wife runs a mail route with her crew cab and gets about equal wear for the front and rear brakes. About 45-50 miles is dirt road. I really think part of your problem may be the proportioning valve.

If you have access to an infrared thermometer (or whatever that doodad is called) you may be able to check the difference in temperature of the front and rear rotors while you are on the route. No experience with it but just common sense would say they should be about the same.

James

I think my problems stem from only using the CC when the roads demand it (mud). Otherwise when it's dry it mainly sits in the front yard. My route is about 6 miles paved and 100 miles mix of dirt and sanded dirt. Hence the diagnosis in the post above by the brake folks. Also as stated before I have tried all the different types of friction material out there to be had with no better results.
I have checked the brake temps with a borrowed IR gauge and they are very nearly the same front to rear after moderate and also hard use.
Gonna have to get out the new (used) OEM manual I just bought before addressing the prop valve suggestion. From what I previously understood of the system it is a sort of cross-connected affair. (LF-RR&RF-LR) I may be mistaken but the book should tell. Mostly I have learned to hate rear disc brakes for my useage. No similiar problems on 3 other vehicles used on the route that have drum rear brakes and disc fronts.

[roadrunner]

A little early to pass judgment on wear yet, but, I have pulled the ABS fuse and the brake wear seems to have evened out some. I definitely like the way the brakes work this way on loose gravel and slick muddy or icy roads (no more "rolling through" desired stops). Will keep all advised on the wear aspects.

[wnyred]

I realize this post is a little old and ongoing. You do know that if you have a bad ehcu its probably not going to come up on a diagnostic scan. Seepage,is about the only way to figure it out from what I am told. That is if you suspect a proportioning kind of prob. Experiences I've learned with my nightmare.

[roadrunner]

After considerable non ABS driving with my truck (ABS fuse pulled) I have determined for my usage this is the only way to go. Brake wear is much more uniform, even, more durable, and I don't "roll through" desired stops anymore. I don't think my problem was a proportioning one wynred. Just simply the ABS system design does not work well for my particular type of driving. If I were to start driving on primarily pavement again I would not at all be afraid to put the fuse back in and make ABS functional again. This is not the first vehicle I have experienced the deficiencies ABS introduces for non pavement driving.

[wnyred]

Ok.w/ my problem I am exp that same roll through stops scenario. I only drive on the paved roads since ive had this, 6 mos. so I havent even exp. it in winter/sand/salt conditions.Im still not convinced my issue is'nt abs related. But enough,dont want to hijack this thread!

[roadrunner]

If you have ABS doubts just pull the large fuse in the fuse center under the hood. This will de-activate the electrical part of the system and turn on both the brake and ABS lights. If your brakes improve significantly you're onto the problem. If not at least you've eliminated one.

[LoneWolf04]

Tried the ceramic from NAPA and GM and Two other sources all =1/3-1/2 the life of the metallics so, No to that one.
Not drilling calipers or pins, just the mounting bracket they hook onto. Not going to be large holes either. only 1/8" or less dia except where zerk is installed. The silicone grease and gun are no problem. I have a "reloadable gun, just a matter of what I load it with.
All things are relative. I can imagine some extremely bad conditions and have driven in some as well. You know you're in trouble when you have to go to Lo4 and Lo gear and run red-line for 1/2-3/4 miles moving at only actual ground speed of 4mph or less to get your a** out of a jam.
I've replaced the pin boots more times than I can remember and no they won't make it 20k for me here. Not on the rear for sure and not always on the front either.
I've considered the replace the vehicle route as well. One problem FINANCES dictate I am unable to for at least three years yet and my job requires I use the CC when weather is too bad for any other vehicle.
I have discussed this problem with other "wheelers" in the area and the general consensus is that the main reason the S10 rears go out so often for me is the placement of the caliper on the front side of the axle instead of the rear side like other brands. This leads to the wheel "dumping" contaminates on the caliper instead of forward of it. Don't know if this is true but others with calipers mounted on the back side of the rear axle are not having the type trouble I am so who knows. I am unaware of any way to move them to the rear of the axle without considerable welding/machine work either.

Obviously an old thread, but I would lean towards a ABS valve. Even with the ABS fuse your fluid is still routed through the ABS valve assembly which divides the two lines that go into it, one for the front and one for the rear, into 3 lines going out. One to the rear and one to each front wheel. On another note, my 2002 cc has the calipers on the rear axle are facing the rear of the vehicle. Now on another note, I've got an 02 2wd blazer and the calipers are facing the front like yours are. I also have an '01 4wd blazer that I will have to look at the rear axle to see which way they are facing when I get home. I think it's weird that GM did not make all the calipers facing the same direction on the rear axle across the s-platform since it is using the same axle 7 5/8th, exept on the zr2 which uses the 8 1/2. Even when you look up calipers on autoparts websites it will give you which side they think it goes on, then it says may be used on opposite side of vehicle.

[roadrunner]

Yes Lonewolf4 those quotes are from some old posts and threads. I have, for the most part, solved my problems with the addition of 1" rear wheel spacers, pulled ABS fuse, and 1/64th of an inch shortening of the brake booster rod. The spacers changed where the debris is dumped and saves the boots on the guide pins as well as prolonging the brake pad life on my rears. Since installing the rear spacers I have had zero problems with guide pin seizures as well. Pulling the ABS fuse has helped tremendously keeping the front brakes from releasing so much and putting too much stopping effort on the rear pads. Shortening the booster rod, in my case, eliminated an intermittent no brakes pedal to the floor condition. This last was primarily encountered on rough wash board road conditions. Quite unnerving in a panic stop situation.
While it is true my pads wear out much faster than most here on the forum it is directly attributable to my job delivering mail on roads which are muddy, snowy, icy, and sanded rather than graveled. The majority of the driving done with my cc is in bad weather as I drive a small car in good weather for fuel economy considerations.