Just a little information that I thought someone might use along the way.
The radiator draincock is not hard to open or remove except for the fact that the slot and pin are on the back side where you can't see it. It's also hard to tell by looking that a 1/4" ratchet fits the center of the draincock without looking at it with a mirror.
In the picture you can see that if you open it all the way, the draincock will not come out. You have to go about half way back in and then straight out. With sand built up around the draincock you will have to keep wiggling it to get it out.
It would also be a good idea to replace the o-ring. I have pulled two and both o-rings got pinched on the way out. I think it's happening where the grooves fork. I put vaseline on it to help the o-ring slide in without pinching.
The size of the o-ring is a -108 (I think the guys that actually know this stuff say "dash 108" but I could be wrong) or 7/16 OD, 1/4" ID, 3/32 thickness. The old o-ring will measure a slightly larger. I bought a new GM draincock and measured the o-ring on it. Being 3/32 thick makes the o-ring harder to find.
Very good info.. Thanks big time.. There is no way to see it in the truck...
2002 GMC Sonoma crew cab 4x4. Tb mod, Air box mod, pre cat delete,B&M shift improver, Trans cooler, Big three ,AD-244 alt,Red top Optima, e-fan, HD Radaitor,265/70-16' on 16x8 TA wheels,, t-bar tweek, 1.5 inch shackles and 2 inch body lift,Skids fender trim, 1.5 inch wheel spacers in front and 2.5 in back, Quad mod and Frog lights.
Transfercase vacuum switch change DO IT!!!
never knew that! good info. I thought it had "ears" on it so you could unscrew it by hand. I ended up pulling the radiator hose. Better info for next cooling system flush!
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