I just put my spacers on.... drivers side is sticking out!

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:49 am

I have had my spacers for a while now, 1.25" front and 3" rear.

Finally put them on today. Got done, I was admiring the front. Very nice.

Looking at the back, very nice. Started studying it and noticed the drivers side is sticking out about 3/4" further then the passanger side?!?!

Very noticable just by eye balling it... The spacers and wheel are flush with each other.... if I can find a ruler im gonna measure the spacers and a bunch of other things, but im pretty certain i set the spacers side by side before I started and they were identical in hieght....

what the heck?!

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:58 am

It has been that way all along. You are the one who will notice it as you are looking for it now. Be happy that you can only look at one side at a time.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:32 pm

Guess thats one way to look at it.

If I was behind my truck, id say "that Jackass has one tire sticking out further then the other! HA!"

lol.

I dont recall ever reading any thing about this... do you kow why one side stick out further then the other? Was UAW in a hurry that day?

Driver:

Passanger:

I put my rear flares on with some clamps, and they are stillfairly decent, I did it on the dirvers side before I noticed it stuck out further, splashed some water on the flare, let it drip down, and it hit just outside the tread about 1/4" on the side wall. In my state tires cant stick past the body work, but thats close enough for me, I see atleas 4 or 5 trucks every day with tires sticking out inches past the body work.

The front is still withen the body work without a flare, or just a hair past it, either way the flare will tuck it unders still.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:44 pm

You should be able to find a few threads on the subject. Not really what you go looking for until you see it on yours though.

Check the gaps at the cab. Some shifting can happen during the body lift. The directions have you adjust it to match measurements before the lift.

There is some room to shift at the u-bolts holding the axle. Then you have normal tolerances for fit. Add it all up and you have a pretty wide margin for error.
The RPO ZR2 have it worse with the panard rod. It pushes the axle side to side as it swings through the suspension movement.

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:49 pm

I have got to get this camera thing taken care of !!! My rear wheels are identical in protrusion as are my fronts. I have 8" wheels with 3 3/4" back spacing. Thats the same as 2 1/4" spacers all around. The only difference is the fronts stick out 1 1/4" further than the rear because the frontend is 2 1/2" wider than the rear on all CCs.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:08 pm

HenryJ wrote: Check the gaps at the cab. Some shifting can happen during the body lift. The directions have you adjust it to match measurements before the lift.

Ah, well I apperantly missed those threads, lol. But that was the first thing I looked for, the bed being off center. But its good.

Horsehammer, nice to know im not the odd ball with the one tire sticking out, lol. Its about a good 3/4". I wonder if I could buy a single 2 1/2" spacer from the guy I got mine from to even it out? lol.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:15 pm

Here's one from five years ago: One rear wheel sits out more than the other
Seems like there was a thread on the old forum too. That site is still up.

Found another: rear end is not lined up

Horsehammerr · Post by **Horsehammerr** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:27 pm

My wheels set exactly the same on both sides in the front and in the rear. The only difference is the fronts set out 1 1/4" further than the rears since the front axle span is 2 1/2" wider than the rear axle span. No odd ball offset.The difference front to rear is stock from the factory on ALL CCs.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:40 pm

HJ is a perfectionist! If, he says to get over it then do it. No one but, you will notice it. I spent major bucks in my early CC mod yrs and fretted all over not having the ridiculous flaming bowtie even on both sides. It will get easier, I promise!

I yanked them off anyway.

Next hurdle is drilling holes into perfectly good exterior sheet metal for what ever mod comes next for you.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:47 pm

Bump over to ZR2USA and do a search. There is quite a bit on the subject there.

If it really bothers you, first have a thrust angle alignment check to make sure the axle is straight. Then you can loosen all the body and bed mounts to shift everything to center.
Loosening the rear axle u-bolts and shifting and slack in the centering pins may help too. Swapping spring packs might be something to try?

All that failing a track bar could be added to center it. An adjustable panard rod, or track bar depending upon which would work for what you do with your truck.

I am sure you could make it perfect with effort, but how much to you want to expend? The benefit may not justify the efforts?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 4:57 pm

I'm glad my truck is not like that.. That would drive me nuts...

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:11 pm

Jongo8 wrote:.....................that would drive me nuts...

Until you got over it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:14 pm

My truck has quite a few things that drove me nuts. I do my best to find other problems that worry me more

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 8:26 pm

I hate to keep dwelling on this but, upgrade the stereo to neutralize horrific sounds. It's mandatory in heeps and no part of my suspension and drivetrain has not been upgraded and meticulously maintained in the heep.

The newest CC on here is five years old. There are going to be noises even if, your name is JIM.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 1:26 am

Well I dont think I am gonna go through all of that

What if I got a single 2.5" spacer for the dirvers side, and kept the 3" on the passanger side? Im ignorant on this also, but would that through any thing out of balance by having two different weights on the end of the diff?

Also, I jsut now recalled, I think one of the "grade 8" studs on the rear drivers spacer started to strip on me as i was torquing it down. And I am by far no power house to be able to strip out a wheel stud.

Guess I should take the nut off, or wheel, look at the threads, see if it is stripped/starting to, then contact the seller..... ghay.

As for my next mods.... after I get the flares on, 33s, and some bump stops. All I plan on is a flowmaster, and prerunner bar/piaa lights. So driling required there, but I think ill be done.

I have worked on and off on the step bars/flares/etc etc for a couple weeks now, this is really starting to annoy me! I just want it done, lol!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 3:07 am

If you did strip a grade 8 stud with only 100fl/lbs of torque you may have a serious problem with the rest as well, unless you just cross threaded it when you first installed. At least if the seller does not make it right it's only a couple dollar part at the local parts store to replace. I know from snapping 3 years ago when just snugging up the lugs on mine after getting the spacers, apparently grade 5 hardware and I do not get along without a torque wrench intervening between us.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 4:08 am

Different width spacers wouldn't be wise. Was the wheel lug/stud stripping out or possibly the nut was "rounding" off? Should not be a problem as mentioned above. Only thing that I have found when you are using spacers is to recheck their torque when rotating tires and if, you are chasing tire related vibrations, clean the mating surfaces of the rotor and spacer.

fallvitals · Post by **fallvitals** » Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:48 am

No, I dont think so, but ill have to check it all out to be sure. Then go from there.