need your help for ordering parts

[paintballrocker]

hey im ordering my parts for the mystery lift soon, and would appreciate your opions.

Here's the list of what im thinking of ordering from summitracing:
1. PA-192 body lift, $217
2. PA gap guards, set of 4, $75
3. Rancho long style add a leafs, $80, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAN-RS50212/
4. Shocks, either Pro comp ES100, rancho RS5000, or Pro Comp ES3000
5. lug nuts and center caps, $50
6. US Wheel 97 series 15x8 4.75 BS, $250, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/USW-97-5834P/

What i need help with is deciding what shocks to buy, and if those wheels will work

BTW i plan on doing the skidz cuts and either 32's or 33's

thanks!

[kwalsh]

I'd do a search on the shocks. A few members have installed the Ranchos. I don't recall that many folks installing the Pro Comp. Did you consider the Bilsteins? I personally have the Bilsteins and love them and they have at least 110k miles on them.

[gocntry]

hey im ordering my parts for the mystery lift soon, and would appreciate your opions.
4. Shocks, either Pro comp ES100, rancho RS5000, or Pro Comp ES3000

I Had The Rancho Shocks On My Crew. The Fronts Were Shot The 1st Year. Forget Those And Go For The Bilsteins, I Replaced My Ranchos With Those And Never Had Another Problem

Just My

[Horsehammerr]

BILSTEIN HEAVY DUTY ----F4-b46-1681 HD REAR---F4-B46-1410 HD FRONT

[paintballrocker]

well i know everyone here likes the blisteen's but i remeber fallvitals saying in his lift journal that when he installed them he didnt experience a "night and day' difference.

thats why i was considering the rancho or pro comp shocks instead of the blisteens, as a way to save a little $$.

[fallvitals]

#1, check out jcwhiteny. They have free shipping right now,, they have also had 10-15% discount codes in conjuction with the free shipping the past few months. Right now it looks like just shipping. I got my PA kit from them for $183 shipped

#2, You don't need the front gap guards. But the wall base trim molding will work fine, I have yet to put mine on (mine is 4" wide, 6" is harder to find, but better). I havent mesed with it yet due to other projects, but I also plan on asking the boss at work to see if i can get some scrap conveyor belt material to use instead of the wall base molding I have.... Heck of a lot cheaper....

#3 no comment

#4 Like you mentioned, I didnt see a night and day differance with the bilstiens. There was a differance but very minor. Id say go with the cheaper ones,,, but, Bilsteins do have a lifetime warranty... And I cant see the ride being any better then bilsteins... might be best to spend the extyra bucks for the warranty sake?

#4 no cmment

#5, nice, but i personally like black rims

As for tires, I have yet to get myu 33x9.5 BFG ATs, but id recommend those over the 32 or 33x10.5 becuase of the same reason Brule runs his. Lighter, less rolling resistance, less impact on your front end. I was tlaking to a buddy tronight at work who apperantly does a lot of wheeling. Has a big jacked up ford ranger. He asked what tires I was gonna put on, I replied. Then he comented that was a good idea, he was about to warn me of big, wide tires on light trucks, the front ends just dont handle em very well. He knows first hand. Now Reed, I know what you run! Im still saying.... if it wasnt for the 33x9.5 option I would just go with 31s.

[green02crew]

I ran cheap shocks for a little over a year. Two were blown out. They too had a lifetime warranty but how many times do you need to replace them to make it worth the extra cost to purchase better ones the first time? They're shocks, they won't make your pickup handle like a porche. There is a night and day difference too: failure vs longevity.

[killian96ss]

#1 Looks good, but shop around for a better price (if possible).

#2 Don't buy the gap guards. You can easily make your own for 1/4 the price. After I bought my gap guards I quickly realized that I could have made my own. Use the extra money for the Bilsteins.

#3 The add a leafs will work, but so will several other options like the Boise spring pack kit, 1-1/2" - 2" rear shackles, Hellwig helper springs, etc. It all depends on exactly what you plan on using your truck for. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages.

#4 Don't bother with the Pro Comps or Ranchos. Get the Bilsteins. Sure they cost more, but they also provide a better ride, have a better design, and will last much longer!

#5 Looks good!

#6 New wheels are not needed. Those wheels look good, but if it were me I would just use the factory wheels with spacers if needed. This would save you money so that you can buy the nicer shocks. If you don't like how they look after a while you could always get something different.

Steve

[F9K9]

Glad you guys are saving me from answering about the plan. It is thought out but, there is info found here in the forum that answers most of it.

US WHEEL........ two out of five that I got were bad. Make the installer run them on the balancing machine straight out of the box without a tire mounted on them. Summit will replace them if, no tire is mounted.

Shocks...........we have danced all around that issue and 75% ended up with Bilstiens.

Gap Guards .............You just need to read the thread below this one and send me the $65 saved.

Vinyl Wall Base Cove Moulding



Drill a few holes and attach with......

These rigs are a minimum of being five yrs old. Not a whole lot hasn't been investigated, turned upside down and inside out. Allot has been researched like what came with cast iron transfer cases, one piece front passenger axle shafts, being regeared using cryogenic treated components and the list goes on and on.

There are a couple of lessons to be learned from all of this. Most of the S-10 GURUS have been through this little forum. I can't think of allot of their names but, they all touched base here. The site is referenced countless times by sites like ZR2USA.COM and S10Forum.com. The info needed is all right here. Don't stop with one search. Hit it again using the info that is found in my signature.

[HenryJ]

I think the list looks pretty good.
Buying it all from Summit will save some shipping charges incurred elsewhere. That will probably beat any discounts found.

I too think you better forget those gap guards. Those can be home brewed for under $20

The Rancho long leafs will be interesting to try. Looks like they are the right width. That is good. Hope they are not brittle Mexican steel. They may be firm? At that price worth a shot though.

I definitely think I would not consider Rancho shocks with them though. Firm and firmer may equal uncomfortable. I know it sounds a little like we get something back from Bilstein, but there is a difference. If you plan to keep the truck five years. Make the investment. $241 , that is only another $50-$60 over the others.

I think the wheels are "do-able" , but check locally too. You may get a better deal with mounting? Those are pretty simple wheels and most shops will have an inexpensive wheel that is comparable. You are still going to want spacers for the rear.

I would add one more to your list: ES front sway bar bushings
They are a pretty good bang for the buck. With the rest of your order you save the "handling rip-off" (fee)

[paintballrocker]

thanks everyone for the input, as of now i have a "modified" list

PA-192
homemade gap gaurds
Rancho add a leafs
Bilstiens, since ill save $$ on the gap gaurds
sway bar bushings

and i think ill take your suggestion, HJ, about the wheels. My local 4x4 shop where i plan on buying my tires, said they have 11 different style of wheels. so im prob just buy the whells and tires together.

Thats my next Q, after i do the skidz cuts, im going to have the shop test fit tires sicne they advertizes it. what do you think would be better, going with a 32x11.5 or a 33x10.5? i was thinking id be able to flex a little bit more with the smaller 32's than the 33's.

Also what type of screws are those used with the homemade gap gaurds?
thanks

[HenryJ]

... what do you think would be better, going with a 32x11.5 or a 33x10.5? i was thinking id be able to flex a little bit more with the smaller 32's than the 33's.

Flexing is not going to be a problem. The width will be your worst enemy. Especially with wider than stock wheels.
All of the above are going to rub the top of the fender until you get the fullsize bump stops.
IMO, Narrower is better.

Also what type of screws are those used with the homemade gap gaurds?

They are not screws. Those are nylon xmas tree fastners. Check for an Au-ve-co dealer, or your local auto parts supplier. 1/4" diameter works well.

[fallvitals]

Id really consider the 33x9.5s.. Thats a big heavy tire for a smaller truck like ours, who inherently have weaker front ends. Now I don't have first hand experience yet with 33x9.5, but it is a fact. Sure the 10.5s look a heck of a lot better, its all about compromise.

And for the gap guards... I just put one on today, Did a terrible job... I should have made the portion of the gap guard facing the rear a couple inches longer. And I only did one side.. lol... I bought 2 pieces of the molding for like $1.80 each at lowes. And even got the "christmas tree" fasteners at lowes. I think like $.80 for a 2 pack. A bit cheaper then auto stores. I didn't do both sides becuase I apperantly lost half of the fasteners I bought somwhere in my truck...

But I plan on redoing this if i can get a piece of conveyor belt from work. the 4" tall molding just isnt wide enough to cover it all up where the frame drops down...

[HenryJ]

When you re-do your gap guards wrap around the ends too. They should help cover the front and rear of the inner fender too. This directs mud and debris downward.

Mine were made from thin belting like material and are trimmed to extend all the way down at the fenders.

Don't drill the frame! These just hang down to cover. You do not attach the bottom.

[paintballrocker]

well hopefully ill order my parts today, only thing that sucks is summit only sells the rear shocks from bilstien

So im going to roder the BL, AAL and sway bar bushing from summit.
And im going to order the shocks from offroadwarehouse, theyre $62 each there.

Back to the tire tho quick, i dont like the look of the skinny 33x9.5, and i also want something more agressive. So what would be the better choice that wont put as much strain on the IFS, 31x10.5 or 33x10.5?

[roadrunner]

Don't drill the frame! These just hang down to cover. You do not attach the bottom.

I agree. The body/frame relationship may seem solid but there is some small flex there and you will eventually tear the plastic rivets or their holes out and have to replace the guards if you attach to the frame and the body.

[F9K9]

................So what would be the better choice that wont put as much strain on the IFS, 31x10.5 or 33x10.5?

Check out the specs at the manufacturer's web site. Lighter would be better. the 33x10.5s are heavy!

[fallvitals]

Oppps. Oh well , its done. That plastic molding needed some kinda of securing on the bottom. If I get the conveyor belt I want, It will be plenty stiff enough to not flap around like that plastic molding.

[F9K9]

Oppps. Oh well , its done. That plastic molding needed some kinda of securing on the bottom. If I get the conveyor belt I want, It will be plenty stiff enough to not flap around like that plastic molding.

Mine has held up and I beat the snot out of them. Top_Sgt bought it so, I can't make a recommendation there. My front's came from Jigg and "Synergy Offroad"! As much as I like his stuff, my fronts went out quickly. I am sure he would have replaced them if, I had asked. I was battling overheating issues and just went w/o them.

[HenryJ]

Oppps. Oh well , its done. That plastic molding needed some kinda of securing on the bottom... to not flap around like that plastic molding.

That is why you roll the ends around the front and back. It serves to hold the side from flapping loosely.

[Horsehammerr]

6" hangs down just right with NO fly away, even attached only on top.

[paintballrocker]

well i got an update. i had to cancle my lift order becuase my choclate lab, dixie, hurt her hip and i had to pay a $600 vet bill.

So anyways i was talking to my recuiter today about offroading, since hes big into it. Well the topic came up of doing an solid axel swap on my crew. so anyways it turns out my recuiter has a set of Dan 60's at his house waiting to be put in his rubi. and he said he might consider selling me the Dana 30 axel real cheap. and that his brother could do the swap for just about free, xcept the cost of parts.

so after that long xplanation, will regular dana 30's out of a rubi work for an SAS?

[F9K9]

Rubis have D44s. If, that axle came out of his Rubi then he is being untruthful. Not that a recruiter would ever be untruthful. You do not want a 30 under your CC. 44 minimum front and minimum Fod 9" in the rear.

[paintballrocker]

maybe i mis heard him? i know its an wrangler.

well y wont a D30 work, lots of guys are running them over at s10forum. i know anything bigger than 33's will break it but thats all i plan to run if i do the swap

[F9K9]

maybe i mis heard him? i know its an wrangler.

well y wont a D30 work, lots of guys are running them over at s10forum. i know anything bigger than 33's will break it but thats all i plan to run if i do the swap

Then why did you a ask a question
here , that was answered on on S10Forum.com here?

Turning the wheel into an incline at a step/stair/ledge and hitting the gas with your stock tires will result result in your inner and outer axle shafts breaking at the u-joint connection.

A dana 30 is a weak axle , it is an upgrade from our weak IFS system. It is great if, mall crawling and maybe playing in mud. Outside of that then I wouldn't waste my money. This is just my opinion. Please do as much research, as you possibly can, on the topic.

[paintballrocker]

maybe i worded it wrong, i wanted to know if wrangler axle are long enough to use or not.

my bad

[F9K9]

They are wide enough and it has been done many times. It really depends on what your end use will be. The do have a "super 30" kit that upgrades the axles to chromalloy(SP?) but, they are expensive and most will not waste that money when they can upgrade to a better axle.

Brand new Dana 44s, with your choice of gearing and electric lockers, were available from Mopar. a little over a yr ago. That was from brake disc to brake disc for $1200 each. Now I doubt you can find them for under $2500.

If, you are just going mall crawling or mild mud, a D30 is okay. Problem is that most want to wheel more difficult stuff soon after they get the taste. That means bigger and stronger.

I wheeled a D30 hard but, I had to be careful.

The XJ had an open 30 in it but, I couldn't hit things on an angle and had to go easy on the skinny peddle.

[paintballrocker]

its been awhile since ive been on this site, work has been eeping me busy.

anyways i wasnt able to do the MML like i wanted, and the crazy idea about SAS is long gone . well i ended up ordering some 1.25" wheels spacers from ebay for the rear. as soon as i got them on i leved out my truck with a tbar tweak. and becuase of that i just ordered some 30x9.5" hankook MT's. i think the mod bug finally bit me.

well thats my update, ill have the tires installed thursday or friday so ill def post some pics then

[HenryJ]

Save up for a 2" body lift and you will be all set. That makes a pretty good combination.

[paintballrocker]

well i finally got around to taking some pics, let me know what you think

this is stock:
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o387 ... CT0273.jpg

this it now with a tbar crank, 1.25" rear spacers, and 30x9.5 Hankook MT's
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o387 ... CT0283.jpg

http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o387 ... CT0284.jpg

and heres a shot of the tires, im impressed so far with them. they work well in the mud, spots id have to use 4x4 to get thro i can now do in 2x4 . and the road noise isnt bad either
http://s341.photobucket.com/albums/o387 ... CT0285.jpg

[F9K9]

Looking good! I love that green color too!

[HenryJ]

Boy those spacers really helped thing out. That before picture is a great example of the funny look. Those faux flares just kill us in that department.
Those tires do look lots more aggressive and fill the wells.
Looking good.

[paintballrocker]

thanks for the compliments guys!

it isnt much but the CC looks alot better, even tho its stoll pretty low to the ground, oh well geuss ill learn to live with it. Maybe when i need new tires ill do a BL and 31's