4x4 Different Problems!!!!!!

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 5:08 pm

I replaced my encoder motor because I was having these symptoms:

Lights would go out on the 4x4 switch
Grounded out the 13th pin and it told me the encoder moter was bad
I would pull to reset the TCCM

After all this, I am still having the same problems. Still says the encoder motor is bad AFTER I replaced it, and lights go out on the switch and you cant operate them. I tried a search, but because this problem is so complex, I decided to start a new thread. Anyone else have these problems, or could point me in the right direction? Thanks a lot guy, you all have done me good in the past, and I appriciate it!

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 5:20 am

You are going to have to wait for someone else or search on ZR2USA.com

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:10 am

might be a bad 4x4 computer? im not really sure though....or a defective motor?

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:36 pm

You have pulled the TCCM behind the right kick panel?? If so and still troubles have you checked all fuses under the hood as well as the dash? I say this as it is unusual to have no lights at all operational on the dash switch. If you have done the above and are still having troubles then you have three possibilities. First perhaps a bad/defective dash switch unit. Second a bad/defective TCCM. Third possibly a defective new encoder motor. The third is unlikely but possible. Generally a bad motor (or more correctly a bad position sensor in the encoder unit) will not prevent the dash lights from working. When you first start the truck all three dash lights should light up and blink. If they don't you have lost supply power or the TCCM has completely failed. All this is assuming you have no damaged wiring underneath and the encoder motor is the proper part number for your application and is plugged in properly. (Electrically speaking of course) Hopefully this will give you some starting points and or ideas to start your diagnosis. Let us know.

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:52 am

roadrunner wrote:You have pulled the TCCM behind the right kick panel?? If so and still troubles have you checked all fuses under the hood as well as the dash? I say this as it is unusual to have no lights at all operational on the dash switch. If you have done the above and are still having troubles then you have three possibilities. First perhaps a bad/defective dash switch unit. Second a bad/defective TCCM. Third possibly a defective new encoder motor. The third is unlikely but possible. Generally a bad motor (or more correctly a bad position sensor in the encoder unit) will not prevent the dash lights from working. When you first start the truck all three dash lights should light up and blink. If they don't you have lost supply power or the TCCM has completely failed. All this is assuming you have no damaged wiring underneath and the encoder motor is the proper part number for your application and is plugged in properly. (Electrically speaking of course) Hopefully this will give you some starting points and or ideas to start your diagnosis. Let us know.

Yeah thanks for all the help, guys. I guess the best option is to just start repalceing things, starting with the switch. I have though a bad TCCM, but stayed away from it because of the cost. But, It might just have to be done. Thanks again!

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Wed May 13, 2009 12:59 pm

Update:

I have changed the TCCM, encoder motor, and the dash switch on my truck. It is still having the same problems. When I pull the fuse, It will work for the first, say, 10 or so cycles from 4hi to 2hi. after that it will flash when i push the 4hi, but immedietly go right back to 2hi, before the orange lights go dim. This is nuts. I have no idea

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Wed May 13, 2009 5:57 pm

Given what you've replaced have you checked the vac pod on the front axle shift. It can act that way if the pod comes loose from it's mounting bracket or the bracket comes loose from the fender or if the shift cable hangs up preventing full engagement of the front differential. Trust me on this I've learned the hard way. If that checks out okay you could have an overly sensitive front axle light switch. (Located on the differential end of the shift cable) This can cause erratic/no shifting problems as well. Have you checked/replaced the vacuum switch on the transfer case. There is a good thread here regarding why that is a necessary/good idea.

Given what you've done and the balance of the suggestions I've just made about all that's left is a wiring problem. If it's that it could be a real b***h to find and if so you have my sympathies.

Keep in mind the TCCM records good vs bad shifts. When it hits a certain number of bad shifts it shuts down normal operation. Each good shift removes/offsets one bad one so an intermittent problem can take a while to show up and may seem unrelated to other symptoms. Further if you want to be sure to clear all shift data from the TCCM remove the kick panel and unplug it for a few minutes with the ignition off of course. Others will argue this point but there have been times that was the only way I could clear codes (shift failures) from mine.

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Wed May 13, 2009 6:39 pm

roadrunner wrote:Given what you've replaced have you checked the vac pod on the front axle shift. It can act that way if the pod comes loose from it's mounting bracket or the bracket comes loose from the fender or if the shift cable hangs up preventing full engagement of the front differential. Trust me on this I've learned the hard way. If that checks out okay you could have an overly sensitive front axle light switch. (Located on the differential end of the shift cable) This can cause erratic/no shifting problems as well. Have you checked/replaced the vacuum switch on the transfer case. There is a good thread here regarding why that is a necessary/good idea.

Given what you've done and the balance of the suggestions I've just made about all that's left is a wiring problem. If it's that it could be a real b***h to find and if so you have my sympathies.

Keep in mind the TCCM records good vs bad shifts. When it hits a certain number of bad shifts it shuts down normal operation. Each good shift removes/offsets one bad one so an intermittent problem can take a while to show up and may seem unrelated to other symptoms. Further if you want to be sure to clear all shift data from the TCCM remove the kick panel and unplug it for a few minutes with the ignition off of course. Others will argue this point but there have been times that was the only way I could clear codes (shift failures) from mine.

thanks for the reply. I forgot to add that i did change the vac switch on the transfer case. I will have to look into this vac pod you speak of. You are not refering to the acctuator, are you? thanks again!

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed May 13, 2009 6:42 pm

The vacuum reservoir is in the left front fender. It can be tested to see if it holds vacuum. Also check those dry rotting hoses near the brake booster.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed May 13, 2009 9:46 pm

I had a vacuum leak and I narrowed it down to being located near the engine. It was on another flavor of vehicle and not one of our beloved CCs.

I certainly take no responsibility for trying this and you would be entirely on your own if, you did.

I took a UNLIT. propane torch, with the valve cracked slightly open and traced my vacuum lines with it. When the engine RPMs suddenly increased over an area then I knew that I was close to my leak. I am sure that this doesn't apply to most of our problems but, it is just being tossed out there.

I do not think a vacuum leak that close to the motor is the problem though. These rigs are getting some age on them. They are five years old, minimum, Dry rot is going to happen sooner than later. As much as a pain that it appears to be, we have to start thinking about replacing the lines.

That line to the transfer case might present a problem before long. Correct me here, Brule but. aren't manufacturers only required to carry non emission related parts for 5 years?

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 14, 2009 4:16 am

Spraying carb cleaner works too. I always heard 10 years was all the law required for parts, but not from a solid source. I recently found Ford parts discontinuted and no longer available for a 2001 model. Nothing aftermarket either. Had to build all the engine compartment wiring from scratch.

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Thu May 14, 2009 10:39 am

HenryJ wrote:Spraying carb cleaner works too. I always heard 10 years was all the law required for parts, but not from a solid source. I recently found Ford parts discontinuted and no longer available for a 2001 model. Nothing aftermarket either. Had to build all the engine compartment wiring from scratch.

really? what 2001 ford was that?

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Thu May 14, 2009 11:18 am

Any Ford... lol J/K..

Post by **HenryJ** » Thu May 14, 2009 12:16 pm

blks10 wrote:...what 2001 ford was that?

Fleet truck caught fire. Four different harness with either of two connectors for the injectors were possible for a 2001 fullsize 4x4 extra cab 5.4L auto. None new or used available in the USA.
Next time use the five gallons of diesel instead of four fire extinguishers.

blks10 · Post by **blks10** » Thu May 14, 2009 5:09 pm

HenryJ wrote:
blks10 wrote:...what 2001 ford was that?
Fleet truck caught fire. Four different harness with either of two connectors for the injectors were possible for a 2001 fullsize 4x4 extra cab 5.4L auto. None new or used available in the USA.
Next time use the five gallons of diesel instead of four fire extinguishers.

wow that is nuts. good idea wiith the extra fuel. I am goin to rip down my truck this sunday when i have off. hopefuly ill find something broken, so i can stop all this

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Thu May 14, 2009 7:08 pm

blks10 wrote:
roadrunner wrote:Given what you've replaced have you checked the vac pod on the front axle shift. It can act that way if the pod comes loose from it's mounting bracket or the bracket comes loose from the fender or if the shift cable hangs up preventing full engagement of the front differential. Trust me on this I've learned the hard way.

You are not refering to the acctuator, are you? thanks again!

Yes I was referring to the actuator and it's mountings. I only called it a pod as some folks may not be aware of it's proper nomenclature. Not saying you but we do have a lot of new folks here lately.