Loose gas tank
Moderator: F9K9
Loose gas tank
While I was under the truck tonight checking for leaks and such. I noticed the rear tank trap bolt was about 1" loose. It apears that the bolt had vibrated loose at some time. As I started to tighten the bolt back up, the nut holder (for lack of a better name) broke loose from the frame. It (the nut) is inside a frame cross rail. Now the bolt spins with the nut. Any one else have this issue? I think I will jack up the tank and cut the bolt off and replace it with a new one. Might be fun trying to hold the new nut inside the frame. Any thoughts?
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- F9K9
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I found my tank strap loose while I was preparing for last years Moab trip and found resistance when tightening it. I soaked it for a couple of days to go further in the process but, that is not helping your situation. Better wait for other ideas before I post what I have learned in Jeep forums. Our rigs are getting older and often preparation for a week or two before the work is performed is becoming more important.
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No one is blaming you. I would have done it myself if, I hadn't had a couple of yrs working on pos heeps lately. They just broke me bad is all. Let's wait on Brule or someone else before we accept reality in this situation.DLP wrote:I would have PB blasted it. But it looked harmless enough as I turned the ratchet. O-$#!! as it poped and spun before I had a chance to even react!
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I would consider a nutsert, or spring retention nut to replace the welded nut. Hard to say what would work the best.
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Mine did too. I was born in MI and something always raises alarms in me when anything that has spent time there becomes difficult to tighten or loosen. The resistance creates heat and I was told that sometimes that is bad. I am anxious to try the candle wax theory that I have recently learned that frees up frozen bolts. I haven't pack any yet in my trail bag but, it sounds plausible.DLP wrote:............it looked harmless enough........
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I knew he would drop by to answer your question. All you have to do is research the answer, solve it and let us all know how it worked. Thanks, BruleHenryJ wrote:I would consider a nutsert, or spring retention nut to replace the welded nut. Hard to say what would work the best.
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I would just tack-weld a nut to the support. But it's a little too close to the big black plastic thing that might go boom! That wouldn't be good. I am heading out tonight to get a measurement on the bolt size. I belive once I cut the bolt, I can weld a stem on the new nut to hold it in place inside the support. No way to get an open-end wrench or socket in there. Hide and watch. I will be back!
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I got the bolt cut off. What a POS mounting tab. The nut has a square coller that fits between the walls of the crossmember. The clip that holds the nut to the crossmember has 2 small tabs that hold it together. The bolt vibrated loose and the tabs rusted through alowing the nut to spin inside the crossmember. I hacksawed the bolt off and pulled the rest of the bolt out. As much as I hate to replace this with the same POS. It would be the easiest way out. At 130,000 miles, It wont be long before I have to drop the tank to replace the pump. I will use a little antisieze on the new bolt.
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- 04crewvt
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Just goes to show, if you see that color on a fastener stop- spray with Deep Creep for a few days - then remove
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Do we have a Deep Creep convert? Mention anything other that the miracle "PB Blaster" on a heep forum and prepare to be flamed......lol! I think it is much better.04crewvt wrote:..........spray with Deep Creep for a few days..............
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It is sure better than wd-40 been using it for a while now got tired of breaking of bolts. Never tried PB Blaster.
[size=75]Why does the universe decree that if you have all the time in the world to work on projects you have no money and vice versa?
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I got a new nut and bolt from our local auto store. The clip is beefier but I don't know if I like the tube type nut. I used a little locktite and a jam-nut at the end for good measure.
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That type spring clip retention nut will work just fine. You may need a dab of Loctite to keep it from loosening.
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Playing devil's advocate here, Brule. Why not use anti seize (gawd, why did I ever bother to learn "'I before 'E' except, after 'C' ") when it is a fastener that you know you will have to readdress in the future?HenryJ wrote:That type spring clip retention nut will work just fine. You may need a dab of Loctite to keep it from loosening.
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The straps tend to loosen. Loctite will prevent the oxidation that damages it too. I would rather have to cut it again and not worry about it loosening up.
Anti-sieze may not be the wrong answer either if it doesn't loosen due to vibration.
Anti-sieze may not be the wrong answer either if it doesn't loosen due to vibration.
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Sounds logical to me. I use the heck out of it for other applications. Front wheel bearing assemblies for starters. I hit all contact surfaces. Just want to make a trail or roadside repair a little easier.HenryJ wrote:The straps tend to loosen. Loctite will prevent the oxidation that damages it too. I would rather have to cut it again and not worry about it loosening up.
Anti-sieze may not be the wrong answer either if it doesn't loosen due to vibration.
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