Temp not going over 160

coolpick · Post by **coolpick** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:26 am

Its ungodly cold the other night, anyways, warmed up the truck for awhile, and drove around. I noticed my temp wasn't going over 160 usually its around the 190-200 region. Should i be worried?

Oh BTW when you get in your trucks first thing in the morning when its really cold, does your suspension kind of pop/crack, when some weight is placed on it. My roommate's ZR2 does the same thing.

raven2510 · Post by **raven2510** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:32 am

the heat this it fine. it was -3* yesterday and it takes like an hour to get to operating temp

coolpick · Post by **coolpick** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:34 am

Thanks for the quick reply. It snowed early this morning, and I wanted to go play in it in the snow, so I was just making sure.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:09 am

The thermostat controls the engine temperature , not the climate. In most cases.
If it does not warm up to operating temperature, you may have a problem with your thermostat.
Make sure the coolant if full too.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:35 pm

It's -30 C here and my temp guage won't go above 70 C.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:20 pm

blaz wrote:It's -30 C here and my temp guage won't go above 70 C.

Year ,make and model please.

S-series prior to the crew cab line do not set a code until below 158 F or 70 C.

Crew cabs will set the MIL after consecutive failures to reach 178 F.

For a crew cab with the stock thermostat if you do not reach 178 F , you have a problem.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:32 pm

2005 blazer, The coolant is full and the temp. will not rise above 70 C. If the T-stat is stuck open will the temp even get that high? When my grand-am T-stat stuck open the temp wouldn't even register on the gauge. What else would cause this to happen? This appears to be the same problem coolpick has so I figured I would see if this was normal.

Post by **HenryJ** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:42 pm

That cold will set the MIL if it continues. The temp could get that high if it were stuck open. Don't trust the stock gauge to give you accurate readings.
No more than the price of a new stat, I would sure try one.
If you are the type to test things you can put your stat in a pan of water. Heat it and use a thermometer to measure when it opens fully. Obviously if it is open and cold, you have a problem.

Worth a look for sure.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:01 pm

If I don't rely on the stock temp. guage, what do I rely on? Also should I change the coolant to get away from dex cool or were the problems related to dex cool solved by 2005. I have not chanced my coolant yet, what is the recomended interval for the coolant?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:11 pm

A very long flush and get away from Dexcool. You will not get it all out unless you do a thorough search and go to efforts to do it now. Anything other than Dex will be fine. Changing your tstat to eliminate that as the culprit is a good start.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Dec 17, 2008 5:34 am

If you have access to a IR temp gun, that will work. The temp gauge for AC that push in the radiator will work too. They kind of look like a meat thermometer, which might work too?
A scan tool, ScanguageII, etc. Lots of choices. Just don't trust the stock gauge to be accurate until confirmed.
Newer vehicles are supposed to be better with Dex, but I say dump it and go green. Either that or watch it closely.

There are plenty of Dex threads, read them for more information. Recommendations for flushing and additives are there too.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:27 pm

Man, if it's THAT cold...you should try getting some cardboard and coverup about 80% of your radiator to prevent some of that cold, cold air from getting into the radiator. (something the truckers have been doing on their big rigs for years, which is where I originally got the idea from)

I've been doing that for years when it gets down into the 20s cause it makers my heater work muchy better and brings the temp gauge up to where it normally runs on a hot summer day.

I think it would be cool to rig up some fins that you can push a button and close of air to 80% of your radiator so you don't have to get all ghetto with the cardboard

PATRICKH · Post by **PATRICKH** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 6:48 pm

Yeah, my cc will make all kinds of odd noises when it's cold out.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:50 pm

Replaced the t-stat today and the temp is back to where it should be.

Thanks.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:20 pm

Yeah, I was getting an occasional code showing my coolant wasn't getting warm enough, so I installed a new "Fail Safe" 195 degree t-stat.

Now, my truck warms up to just under 210.
Is that was other S10 trcuks read?

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:24 pm

Rockrz wrote:............Is that was other S10 trcuks read?

The needle was meant to stick up at 12 o'clock at 210*. Some just prefer to run a them a "little" colder.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:25 pm

Great...so I'm normal for once

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:33 pm

f9k9 wrote:The needle was meant to stick up at 12 o'clock at 210*. Some just prefer to run a them a "little" colder.

My 12 o'clock reads 100!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:43 pm

Canadian Truck ??

killian96ss · Post by **killian96ss** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:13 pm

With a 180 degree t-stat my gauge reads 2 lines below the 210 mark.

My 210 mark is @ 12 o'clock on my temp gauge.

Steve

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:26 pm

04crewvt wrote:Canadian Truck ??

Yes, I'm in canada, but I'm thinking the USA weather looks much better this time of year. It was -39 ( I think that is the same in F or C ) here yesterday.

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 10:53 pm

blaz wrote:
04crewvt wrote:Canadian Truck ??
Yes, I'm in canada, but I'm thinking the USA weather looks much better this time of year. It was -39 ( I think that is the same in F or C ) here yesterday.

Oh God that just made me shiver.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:05 am

-40 is the official equal point on the F to C conversion chart but yea that's close enough to OMG it's freaking cold out. I joke I moved to Vermont to get away from winter weather after spending nearly 7 years in Potsdam NY we would usually get the -40 temps for a week or so straight each winter around now where we felt lucky when the high for the day hit -20F

YellowCrewCabber · Post by **YellowCrewCabber** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:40 am

04crewvt wrote:-40 is the official equal point on the F to C conversion chart but yea that's close enough to OMG it's freaking cold out. I joke I moved to Vermont to get away from winter weather after spending nearly 7 years in Potsdam NY we would usually get the -40 temps for a week or so straight each winter around now where we felt lucky when the high for the day hit -20F

Does -20 actually fee warmer than-40??

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:46 am

Yup- At least for the first few minutes outside.

sonoma · Post by **sonoma** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:35 pm

i have a heat problem now as well.
just noticed that i lose my heat and have cold air blowing and will notice my temp gauge will fluctuate as well. the heat will come back over time but will lose it again and it repeats off and on but i have noticed it more in the city than when im driving on highway.
could this be a tstat problem or do i have other problems??

Post by **HenryJ** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:48 pm

Might be air in the system, or the stat. Make sure you are not using the stock cap. Get a good one with a spring loaded relief. Purge the air. Make sure the expansion tank is full to the hot mark when cold.

A new thermostat is cheap. It might be worth replacing just for the peace of mind.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:23 pm

HenryJ wrote:A new thermostat is cheap. It might be worth replacing just for the peace of mind.

It is also a quick easy job, no problems. I reused the wrap around gasket but I would have bought a new one if I knew I needed one when at the part's store, just a heads up.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:26 pm

My new thermostat came with a new seal. I got the fail safe one. When it goes bad it is open so you don't burn up the motor.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:31 pm

Jongo8 wrote:My new thermostat came with a new seal. I got the fail safe one. When it goes bad it is open so you don't burn up the motor.

I also got a fail safe. I asked the parts person if I needed a gasket and he just gave me a blank stare. I know for next time.

Jongo88 · Post by **Jongo88** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 9:19 pm

Don't you hate that.. Makes you want to slap him...

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun May 02, 2010 7:51 pm

So my T-stat went again today, 16 months. I replaced it today (aways easier the second time).

The question this time is;

The check engine light came on, will it clear it's self after so many cycles or do I have to disconnect the battery?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 02, 2010 7:53 pm

blaz wrote:So my T-stat went again today...will it clear it's self after so many cycles or do I have to disconnect the battery?

Yes to both.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:03 pm

HenryJ wrote:Yes to both.

Does that mean either way will work?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:05 pm

Yes.

Personally I'd clear it and start fresh.

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:09 pm

Wow, fast with the answers!

Thanks again.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:11 pm

You are using a quality stat with the bypass valve, right? How about the coolant? Have you gone green and changed it every two years?

Don't forget to add some "Redline Water Wetter"

blaz · Post by **blaz** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:16 pm

Warranty is now finished, so green will be going in this summer. Just have to find the flush instructions on here. As for a quality T-stat yes, fail safe and I think the brand was stant?

Post by **HenryJ** » Sun May 02, 2010 8:22 pm

Sounds good. The "Orange stuff" is a problem for these engines. The next gen V , the 5.3L seems to be doing better with it. Way too many variables to say why for sure.

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Temp not going over 160

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