Scotchloks

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:34 pm

I try to stay away from them but, since I am "solder challenged", I use them in non critical connections. I think Damon has good advice and once again, I wonder why I never thought of it since I always keep it on hand. I think I know a member or two that might try dielectric grease when they have to use the scotchloks

DoctorD wrote:Scotchloks work best if pre-filled with dielectric grease before installation. Since they're insulation piercing and heat sensitive,the dielectric helps slice the insulation then acts as a heat sink compound as well as corrosion prevention. They're OK for non-critical connections that don't pass a lot of current.

F9K9 wrote:I should known better. Great tip for us simple minded members. Thanks, Damon!

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:38 pm

No names mentioned...RIGHT!

Good tip. Still not a good thing to use since they cut the wires, but preventing corrosion would help for sure.

Did I mention that I still need to solder and heat shrink that quad mod?
Hey, I did get the roof lights fixed though.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 2:59 pm

HenryJ wrote:No names mentioned...RIGHT!

Hey, I have met several CC members in person.

HenryJ wrote:Did I mention that I still need to solder and heat shrink that quad mod?
Hey, I did get the roof lights fixed though.

What was the problem?
We need some downtime in Moab in '10. You can research and make recommendations for what I need for the "solder challenged" before then and I will buy it.

A description was given in another forum and it was determined that they were called scotchloks.

f9k9 wrote:I call them something to check first when anything electrically modded fails. That is in my case, anyway! Yeah, yeah, I have had some very good teachers try to give me the gift of soldering and I know all the principles but, it just ain't gonna happen. I have also become friends with heat shrink and liquid tape and when something fails I go to the scotchloks(sp?) and they are always the culprit!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:30 pm

I am guilty of using these fairly regularly myself along with butt splices and quick connects. I guess I have been lucky since I have never had a connection go bad with them but I also am not quite as hard on my toys as some. I can solder quite well but just never seem to have the time to bother with it.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:00 pm

f9k9 wrote:
HenryJ wrote:Hey, I did get the roof lights fixed though.
What was the problem?
We need some downtime in Moab in '10. You can research and make recommendations for what I need for the "solder challenged" before then and I will buy it.

The clamp that held the box grounded out my power point on the roof rack bow. I made new plates and hardware for that side from high density ABS. The contacts are now stainless and recessed, so hopefully that will not be a future issue.

I really should go out and remove that Scotchlok from the quad beam mod. It has plagued me more on trips than just Moab. I might just do that this afternoon.

Get your list made up. I sure do hope to do another Moab trip in '10. This years vacation is gone. laid off for the last month , I go back to work Monday. I burned my comp time so as not to go financially backward. hard to believe , but it will be a relief to go back to work. That unemployment stuff is for the birds. I haven't done that in 20 years.

off topic.

Now back to the Scotchlok thread

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 4:24 pm

HenryJ wrote:......................Get your list made up. I sure do hope to do another Moab trip in '10. This years vacation is gone. laid off for the last month , I go back to work Monday. I burned my comp time so as not to go financially backward. hard to believe , but it will be a relief to go back to work. That unemployment stuff is for the birds. I haven't done that in 20 years.
off topic.

Now back to the Scotchlok thread

Well, you just floored me the "lay off" story. I am sorry but, am glad you are going back to work!!!!!!!!!
I should have known that hanging around me for a few days would bring out circling flocks or waterfowl!

Buying the bike (which was a wise move) didn't help in going into a stealth mode and preventing attracting those friggin' ducks either.

I just need the simplest method for automotive soldering. I don't need the "word burner" looking style (been there) or a top of the line Craftsman (from 30 yrs ago where the bits just fold over) either. The cordless BS has been tried and I do not think I could burn myself with one of those.

You have over a year to research the topic. Think of it as "soldering for the complete idiot". Not unlike what Muir did with a the Type I

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:25 pm

Been lots of stress around my house for a while. I have 11 years tied up in the state run retirement plan. That limits options when you want to keep that going.
Timing on the bike was perfect. No way I would be in the market right now

Actually if I get the advertised 80 mpg this summer, it will not take long to catch up a little. Besides it was time to put a few less miles on the V65 and this will also make a great back up for offroad. I am looking forward to some trail riding this summer.

I have a Military spec solder/de-soder set that is just wonderful. It has at least ten different tips. I would suggest that a soldering iron is superior to a gun. Much better control.
I don't know that I can offer suggestions on how to do a great job. It is kind of like welding. Practice helps. Good tools help. And sometimes there is nothing you can do that helps.

Thanks for the push. I stripped all the Scotchloks from my quadbeam mod. They are now all soldered and heat shrunk now.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:37 pm

Scotchlocks IMO are only good for a temporary fix. After working for 30+ years around snow and ice removal equipment, I have tried about everything. Solder and heat shrink is the way to go if you have the time. Heat shrink butt connectors are my weapon of choice. Used with a good pair of crimpers that don't puncture the heat shrink on the connector and careful use of a butane torch make a good fast repair. We use probably 800 to 1000 of heat shrink butt connectors a year between the 4 of us in the shop. Properly used, these butt connectors make a permanent repair. We even have some that allow the joining of two different gauges of wire, or connecting more than 2 wires at a time. The best crimpers I have found are a compound ratcheting type that Snap-On has. They aren't cheap, but are well worth the price if you do much wiring. So far, I've worn out three pair of these crimpers.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 5:45 am

I guess in my case the 3 or 4 years I have kept other vehicles means someone else might have had to repair or replace the connections I have used but as I said I have been lucky and not had one fail. I prefer the butt connectors myself and use them when I am able.

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:43 am

In the conditions our trucks operatein, scotchlocks would last about 2 days to maybe a week before the green corrosion sets in and destroyes the connection. It pays to take the time to do it right if you drive on roads where salt is used. It will save time in the long run.

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:49 am

I tend only to use them inside. I really try to do outside connections correctly the first time so I do not have to make time to do them again. I even used GM weathepac connectors for my front camera power connections since I have to unhook the camera to remove the grill.