Marine Intake Manifolds

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:20 pm

Anybody ever install a "Mercruiser Volvo 4.3 MPI 8 Bolt Intake Manifold" on their truck?

I found a decent deal on eBay for about $250 shipped at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercruis ... otohosting

This think should be a direct fit physically, but what all would have
to be done to make it work right with the factory ECM?

daevans315 · Post by **daevans315** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 1:43 pm

Rockrz wrote:Anybody ever install a "Mercruiser Volvo 4.3 MPI 8 Bolt Intake Manifold" on their truck?

I found a decent deal on eBay for about $250 shipped at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercruis ... otohosting

This think should be a direct fit physically, but what all would have
to be done to make it work right with the factory ECM?

I've been looking at these in combination with a supercharger for my 97 4.3 6 speed. Most of the issues have been solved if you do some searching but there is some drilling, tapping, welding needed to get everything hooked up.

http://www.wynjammer.com/ALM1115/Als_Workbench.html

wynjammer used to have a link to one of the 'generic' s10 forums with a 200+ post thread on how to get it all working. I don't see it now and a quick google didn't turn it up.
If you needed more fuel and flow for forced induction, thats the way to go it appears.

edit:
found it.
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=317

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:40 pm

On one of the other boards, some guy was saying he did this and, using a dyno before and after, he was able to see about a gain of about 45 horses.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:59 pm

I think after reading some of Brule's stuff, I'm starting to see that
some mods aren't worth messin with unless you're into drag racing
and you have an endless supply of money.

I guess I'm a middle of the road guy in that, yes I do want better
performance but I don't want to spend a mint to get it and I really
don't need to get in trouble with speeding tickets.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:11 pm

Remember Rockrz . Horsepower is directly proportional to money spent and inversely to longevity of the power plant.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:45 pm

roadrunner wrote:...inversely to longevity of the power plant...

Does this mean adding more horse power decreases the life of your engine?

If so, then I know I'm on the right track tweaking for a little extra power without spending a bunch of money adding alot of extra power.

My last truck is still running great at 212,000 miles, and I want my
new '03 truck to get that, at least.

But, after lookin at the Jasper HiPo engines...I'll prolly go that route
once I reach 200k, which will take me about 6 or 7 years.

Heck, by that time obama will prolly have a $14,000 yearly tax on
all internal combustion engines

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:08 pm

Rockrz wrote:
roadrunner wrote:...inversely to longevity of the power plant...
Does this mean adding more horse power decreases the life of your engine?

Yup, you got it!

04crewvt · Post by **04crewvt** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 9:07 am

If you just are going to drive it normal why in the world do you need extra HP??? The little we can add with CAI and high flow exhaust would put us at around 200HP max, we have a good power band ,not too high a RPM band, we can tow 5200lbs with little problem. If we start adding Hp we have to look at upgrading our cooling, transmission, braking, suspension, and we still can't use all that extra except on the track or to show off on the highway (expensive when the blue lights come on behind you).
This not even going into the fact that in most locals this setup will not pass emissions testing (it's not rated for highway use) and you will have to basically reprogram from scratch the PCM to even work with this. Marine engines are built differently from the engines put in vehicles so they work correctly with these manifolds. Seems like a lot of work for anything but a show car/toy certainly isn't going to be any better a daily driver.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 2:41 pm

Rockrz wrote:If so, then I know I'm on the right track tweaking for a little extra power without spending a bunch of money adding alot of extra power.

Nope, I want to add as much power as possible without going to alot of expense and major mods like this marine intake

That way, I have a little better than stock power (when needed) but driven normal I'll get a little better fuel efficiency.

Heck, my '03 extended cab 2WD gets about 19 to 20mpg with about half city driving and half highway driving

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:23 pm

What is it going to take to make the marine intake manifold work? Costs, parts, modifications.

The injection system is totally different, so a new PCM and wiring will be needed. New gauges or a conversion harness for the new PCM.

Lets see the links from the other forums that have done it.

Lots more than a supercharger would cost, but we might as well know here too.

okie s10 · Post by **okie s10** » Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:44 pm

If I'm understanding the writeup on the new intake, when set up correct it will get you an extra 30 hp. Of course the only cost quoted is the $200 for the intake. Doesn't mention the other cost of wiring and PCM.

Is this a stand alone upgrade, or does it have to be used in conjuction with the supercharger? If you could do it for a grand or less, might be worth the money. But really wondering if you would notice the extra horses.

Then they talking about that bonnet which if I read that right, it's to be used if you add a supercharger. And the basic cost for that is 2500 bucks.
So the two upgrades together your looking at close to 300 horses for a huge amount of dollars. Yep, I'm thinking a V8 swap would be the way to go for the money.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:05 pm

You do NOT need a new pcm or wiring harness. All you have to do is adapt leads from the stock injector harness with plugs that fit on "normal" injectors. The computer will need a re-tune but it will run the truck just fine.

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:09 pm

purduecrew wrote:You do NOT need a new pcm or wiring harness. All you have to do is adapt leads from the stock injector harness with plugs that fit on "normal" injectors. The computer will need a re-tune but it will run the truck just fine.

Got pictures? Yours is a 2003 so did you start with the MFI injection? Did you drill the steam ports, or were they there? What did you do with the stock injection distribution electrical?

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:32 pm

No pictures but I didnt say that these were all inclusive either

I just know that you can use the factory computer and harness. Yes you will have to change the MAP sensor/steam holes, CC brkt, etc. to make it work perfectly.

great link
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums/sh ... hp?t=50198

Post by **HenryJ** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:47 pm

Definitely not a "bolt on mod". If you can do the fab work and adaption it is possible. I wonder if it is worth the expense in the long run? No going back once you dive into this one.

UR50SLO , Dec. 2007 wrote:The marine intake is a direct bolt on for any Vortec headed 4.3L.
Remove old intake,Clean,new gaskets,Install lower intake.
Uses stock application intake gaskets. Plastic/rubber.

From here there's several differences that your going to run into. I'll try and lay out the hurdles on each part one at a time so as you come across them you will be able to figure it out quickly.

Removal of old intake:

If your this far.. your commited.. Here we go.

Quicky removal stuff as usual:
Disconnect battery, De-pressure fuel,drain cooling system,remove fuel lines from top of injector pack, connectors,Throttlbody,distributer(label where it is or put on #1tdc)
*hint* remove a/c compressor... if you've got a carbide bit or dremel tool you can grind away some of the bracket to allow you to get at the intake bolt hidden under there. It won't hurt the bracket and it saves you from taking the entire bracket back or off to access that one darn bolt. GM should have made it accessable from the factory*.
Remove bolts and pull intake.
Clean and place new gaskets/new *HEAVY* lower plenum.. I wondered if they sent me a intake or a boat anchor.

Now the nitty gritty.

Brake Booster:
The upper alluminum plenum needs to be tapped at the back where the MAP sensor would go (for the marine application) 3/8 Pipe tap and fittings work good here to a barb where you can then plug your Brake booster line back into. *There are several other places up there you can do the same thing*
The Marine intake MAP sensor will not work with your system since it has the temp sender and the MAP all in one.

PCV:
Run the PCV line to the valve cover with 3/8 evap/fuel line. I used the Marine intake's metal line to do this.

MAP/Vaccume connections:
I used a few T-s to run the vaccume lines... One to the Fuel Pressure regulator on the Marine intake*Needs that*

EVAP:
You can hook your evap solonoid up to any vaccume connection if you desire.

EGR:
If your going to re install your EGR the Marine intake does have the brass plug up in the front that "can" feed EGR. You will have to get a bit creative here and make a flange coming off your stock feed tube. Then feed the port in the front of the marine intake the outlet of your EGR.
It's possible but this will take some fabrication. (I delted ours)
If your going to delete this... You can remove the fitting in the drivers manifold and put a plug in it or cut and weld that existing plug shut.

Injector wiring:
You will need to cut the injector harness off at the connector.
There are 12 wires total.
ALL Pinks are 12volts with Ignition on. (hot)
All the other wires are grounded by the ECM.
You will need injector connectors for your stye or choice of Injector.(6)
Wiring is as follows:
(Letters are on the stock injector connector)*see picture below*
#1 injector: (E) Pink and (F) Black
#2 injector: (H) Pink and (G) Green/Black
#3 injector: (D) Pink and (C) Pink/Black
#4 injector: (J) Pink and (K) Light blue/Black
#5 injector: (B) Pink and (A) Black/White
#6 injector: (L) Pink and (M) Yellow/Black
Please take the time to solder your connetions and shrink wrap. Make sure your wires are long enough to go to each injector.
This is the only wiring you'll have to do on the entire project. Cool !!!

Fuel Feed Fuel Return:
There's several ways to change the fuel line feed and return. They make fittings to convert the connetions at the back of the intake to AN. You can do it that way. More expensive but a very good way.
I ended up taking that fitting off the lines coming up from under the truck off. I removed the two small o-rings. I purchased from Autozone the "Goodyear" brand High Pressure Fuel Injection hose. 3/8 for the feed and 5 1/16 for the return. Also Fuel injection clamps. (worm clamp will work too) I did double clamp each end. The barb on the up coming fuel line helps keep the line on as does the barb on your Marine intake inlet fuel line.
We've had this on there for 15,000mi with no problems so far.

Coolant Lines:
I used a few fittings from the "Help" secion at advance/zone. To adapt a few differences in the heater hoses.

Throttle Body:
The stock marine intake throttle body will not work with our throttle linkage.
You will need to re-use the stock GM throttle body.
The problem is the marine throttle body has a o-ring seal on it.... where the stock GM has the seal on the plenum. So, when we go to use the stock throttle body on the Marine plenum.. we are left with no gasket!
Get some of the black gasket in a roll from auto parts store. It's like black cardboard.
Take some masking tape and lay it on the bottom of your stock throttlebody. Trace out with a marker where your holes are and pattern.
Cut out the places that need to be open, lay on your gasket material and then cut the gasket.
Make sure to trial fit it to the manifold and throttle body to make sure you have all the holes cut out and it fits with out haning out anywhere it shouldn't.
The cruze lever will hit the fuel rail. Carfully bend the cruze lever up till it does not hit the rail. Simple enough.

Making sure you've got all connections hooked up, wiring double checked, cooant filled,distributer clocked right it's time to see if your hard work payed off.

Notes from my experiences:

I had trouble sealing the 32lb/hr injectors to the lower manifold. I ended up using the o-rings off the marine intake and one thinner o-ring on top of that to get a good seal.

Stock Marine intake fuel pressure is higher than ours trucks was stock, The injectors are 24lb/hr also. So if your planning on not programming the ECM for the differences you will need to buy a Adjustable Fuel PRessure REgulator for the 98Corvette fuel rail. It is a direct fit for the Marine intake fuel rail and will allow you to adjust the fuel pressure down to where your (Short term/Long term Fuel trims) are low. 1-4%. Any Scan tool will show those perameters.
(link for AFPR)---

Our 98 Jimmy is Turbo charged with stock Typhoon exhaust manifolds,turbo,downpipe. We have over 15,000mi on it being turbo and has 150+000mi on the stock engine. We run 10-11psi of boost every day. It get's better MPG than stock and is WAY more fun to drive.

Overall the Marine intake has been fantastic. I've also done a 99 Blazer in the same fashon as ours that he plans on going turbo soon.

The manifold comes with 24lb/hr injectors. If you plan on using them you'll need a AFPR to dial down the Fuel Pressure till your LTFT/STFT's are with in 5%. (long/short fuel trims)

In an application where you need the option of bigger injectors, I can see it.
Normally aspirated the MFI conversion is all we would ever need.

purduecrew · Post by **purduecrew** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:51 pm

You think if you took a stock truck and did the swap, you would see a 40hp difference??

I mean thats not a crapload at 230 total but with the relative torque we make, wouldnt it feel like a vortec 350 motor swap? Only thing is Im sure it kills low end torque...

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:07 pm

roadrunner wrote:Remember Rockrz . Horsepower is directly proportional to money spent and inversely to longevity of the power plant.

not necessarilly... i've seen really fast cars with not alot of money
invested in them, and ive seen cars that had a fortune in top of the
line go fast goodies on them, that were downright embarrassingly slow.

it all depends on how knowlegeable you are, and how wisely you spend your money...
sometimes, awesome deals can be found on
good condition used parts.

i recently picked up a used Crane 204/214 deg., .429/.430"lift cam
for my truck, for just over $100 from an S10F member,
and i got an 2002 non-EGR complete intake manifold from Ebay
for$35, that ive been doing some porting work on.

not awesome deals, but pretty good though..
i plan to install both soon...

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:02 pm

My reference to money and horsepower is more directly related to major improvements. Some gains can be had with minor outlays and they are not generally adverse to longevity. I'd certainly inspect that cam very closely to make sure it is in pristine condition before installing in your engine. Sometimes a good buy can turn expensive if you are not careful. As for "really fast" that is a relative term also. If you are speaking to 1/4 mile times or road course performance then money usually does come into play in a fairly large way. If you are speaking to street performance then it just depends how far you want to go and still have a "streetable" vehicle. You can achieve some "quickness" modestly. When you go beyond that the vehicle becomes less fun to drive unless you only plan to race it. Streetability of the cam you bought is more related to overlap than lift or duration. Additionally you should make sure you have springs that will support that cam and guide clearance as well as piston to valve clearance before you fire it up.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:12 pm

I didn't know that there were Marine intakes.

Post by **HenryJ** » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:34 pm

Did I just hear a... "Hoo YA!"

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:08 pm

Shucks! I'd think you former marines would know that one f9k9. It's called an induction center. hehehe

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:30 pm

roadrunner wrote:........... I'd think you former marines........

Ain't no 'former marines"! "Prior Service Marine" is politically correct this month but, it is still an another foo-foo piece of BS!

crew cab sonoma · Post by **crew cab sonoma** » Thu Feb 19, 2009 9:31 pm

roadrunner wrote:My reference to money and horsepower is more directly related to major improvements. Some gains can be had with minor outlays and they are not generally adverse to longevity. I'd certainly inspect that cam very closely to make sure it is in pristine condition before installing in your engine. Sometimes a good buy can turn expensive if you are not careful. As for "really fast" that is a relative term also. If you are speaking to 1/4 mile times or road course performance then money usually does come into play in a fairly large way. If you are speaking to street performance then it just depends how far you want to go and still have a "streetable" vehicle. You can achieve some "quickness" modestly. When you go beyond that the vehicle becomes less fun to drive unless you only plan to race it. Streetability of the cam you bought is more related to overlap than lift or duration. Additionally you should make sure you have springs that will support that cam and guide clearance as well as piston to valve clearance before you fire it up.

well, i have a friend with a turbocharged 98 Z28 that has runs high
10 sec. 1/4 mile times. idles smoothly, runs on pump gas, and on drag
radials. still has A/C on it.
he has about $2600 in the car... that includes the purchase
price of the car...

not bad performance for the investment, huh?
ofcourse, this guy knows where to find amazing deals on everything...
i dont think he's bought anything new other than tuneup parts for it.

as for the cam i bought, it barely has more than stock lift, so no
problems with guide clearance.
and the cam is in exellent condition. gear teeth, lobes, and journals
all look good. i even checked it to make sure it wasnt bent.

and the Crane tech i talked to, said the stock 4.3 springs
are fine, as long as they are in good condition...
but if i need to, i can swap in some stock low mileage LS1
beehive springs i have sitting on the shelf. i just need to aquire
the right keepers/retainers for them...

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Feb 20, 2009 5:29 pm

Glad your friend has such good luck finding "deals". IMHO this more the exception than the rule. Mostly finding things like that requires more patience and checking around than most people are willing to invest. Additionally when figuring costs you should consider how much time and gas your friend also invested to find all these deals. Most people neglect to mention or figure in these costs in their "bargains". Can it be done? Sure! Not always that easily though.

daevans315 · Post by **daevans315** » Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:35 pm

I just wanted to drop in here again and update on the marine intake. I've not been on the site in a while as I sold my crew about a year ago but I still have a 97 S10 that I did a marine intake swap on. If I still had my crew cab and was towing with it I would do this and the LS1 E-fans on it in a second. The ~1000 to 2500 RPM torque that you pick up with the marine intake would have been very nice towing.

Also, having spent some time on the site I know there are a few fuel economy addicts on here. With the 97 2wd, with a basic starter tune, the marine intake, and the t56 I'm now getting 23mpg(averaged over several tanks) around town and I pulled down 26 on a tank that was mostly interstate at 70 to 80mph. The low end torque of the marine intake sure helped it pull the 80mph at 2100 rpm. Before the intake, but with the t56 I could get 25mpg but I had to keep it below 70 and have a tail wind. It always seemed to struggle to pull 6th at higher highway speeds.

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Marine Intake Manifolds

Marine Intake Manifolds

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Re: Marine Intake Manifolds