Making plastic stronger???

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 2:23 pm

OK, so I buy the cheapy CAI off of eBay, but I'm
going to retain my stock air box and cut the front out.

But, I read on another board that the plastic has split
on some of the guys that have used this cheapo setup at shown here:

So, I was thinking...does anyone know of some good, heavy duty plastic epoxy (or something similar)
that can be used around this seam to strengthen it so it won't split?

And, are the K&N units known for splitting too?

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:06 pm

Just a suggestion and no I have not tried it but you can buy a plastic welder from harbor freight tools. You then could build up the plastic seam or better still "weld" some reinforcement straps across the weak spot. JMO

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:16 pm

I have never heard of K&N units having this issue before. I don't really see how the plastic splits like that maybe being squished by the hood?

JB Weld available at hardware stores, walmart and homedepot to name a few places, works very well. It is a two part epoxy, takes some time to dry but I used it on the lower valence (air dam) on my truck after it cracked. It has held strong for two years now. It is also paintable and sandable. Very strong.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:21 pm

I guess that could work OK, but seems like they'd have something manufactured specifically for plastic.

Heck, I ought to find a shop that does plastic welding and see what they could do to make the seam stronger, since that is literally melting plastic together until it becomes one

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:22 pm

Opps, sorry I didn't see the post above about harbor freight tools carying plastic welders...I'll scope that out if I can find them on the net

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 3:57 pm

The JB Weld will make the seam stronger. It is stronger than plastic.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:27 pm

How about "DUCK Tape"?

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:31 pm

green02crew wrote:The JB Weld will make the seam stronger. It is stronger than plastic.

I know it's stronger than plastic, but my concern would be about the JB Weld adhering to the plastic long term sitting there on top of my engine where it's going to be getting pretty hot.

Seems like after a while the heat would effect the way it sticks to the plastic.

f9k9 wrote:How about "DUCK Tape"?

Yep, that's a good reason to join Ducks Unlimited ( http://www.ducks.org )

Post by **HenryJ** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 6:57 pm

Waterweld

Properties (psi)
Tensile Strength: 6,000 psi
Density: 15.8 lb/gal
Compression Strength: 12,000 psi
Shear Strength: 700 psi
Hardness: 65-75 psi
Resistant to: 300° F
Modulus of Elasticity: 6 x 105 psi

You can always go back to using the stock turtle. That is what I did.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:00 pm

Does all this mean it will actually STiCK to the plastic long term?

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 7:58 pm

The plastic welder would be the best perminet fix. It is a bit of an art-form. But it is fun too. You will find all kinds of uses after you get one.

F9K9 · Post by **F9K9** » Fri Dec 26, 2008 11:04 pm

This is beginning to remind me of how I fixed my model airplanes and cars that my little brother broke. I'd use my Dad's soldering iron tow warm it up and stick it together.

Wait a second

I think it was actually a wood burner that looked like a soldering iron. Anyone remember them? Can anyone imagine them marketed now for a 9 yr old?

We, as a society have not done well in my book!

rlrnr53 · Post by **rlrnr53** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 4:07 am

Reed, IMO our fantastic legal system is what has screwed up everything. A look at the "STELLA" awards will tell you why. (For those that don't know, the Stella awards are given to the winners of large law suits.) I think there should be an award to the judges and juries that hand out these no common sense awards

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:55 am

The heating and cooling will not have a negative effect on the JB Weld adhesion, the stuff really is amazing. If you tried it you would understand, quick, easy, cheap, strong. I don't see many negatives there.

If you clean the plastic and scuff it slightly before adhesion I would not worry at all. I did not clean or scuff my lower valence (air dam) before application. It has been 2 years strong and it has taken a few hits from snowbanks without the adhesion coming off the plastic. I am actually surprised the air dam hasn't broken in another location yet. It was cracked nearly from top to bottom as well.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:44 pm

JB is good stuff. A friend of mine used to use it on cylinder heads when a valve seat got cut too deep as a sealant with excellent results. On plastic however I would be more concerned with flex-damage as JB gets hard and takes the flexibility away from the plastic thus possibly causing additional problems if it is flexing enough to crack at seams already.
As an aside I would be looking into what is causing this flex such as possibly loose motor mounts allowing too much engine lift under torque or loose mountings of the neck in the picture.

roadrunner · Post by **roadrunner** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:49 pm

Leave it to Reed to come up with a solution involving "DUCKS". lol

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:40 pm

Think this thing is taller than the OE version?

If it is, then the hood is probably laying on top of
it causing the plastic to rupture eventually

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:50 pm

My K&N is taller than stock. The hood comes down on top of it so that it just touches. I have not had any issues with because of the touching after about 25k miles. If anything it helps. There is an issue with the aftermarket ones popping off, the hood holds it down quite well.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sat Dec 27, 2008 5:56 pm

These shouldn't have any issues with popping off since it is held in place by 3 bolts.

The ones I heard that pop off are the ones that are held on by a big hose clamp.

green02crew · Post by **green02crew** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:52 am

Thats correct, the hose clamp does allow them to pop off.

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:46 am

Anybody know why they make thing
with that indention on top?

I've noticed even the K&N version has
this, although it is positioned differently.

DLP · Post by **DLP** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:46 pm

rlrnr53 wrote:Reed, IMO our fantastic legal system is what has screwed up everything. A look at the "STELLA" awards will tell you why. (For those that don't know, the Stella awards are given to the winners of large law suits.) I think there should be an award to the judges and juries that hand out these no common sense awards

I remember making Christmas presents using a wood burning iron in Cub Scouts. It didn't take long to learn which end to hang on to

Rockrz · Post by **Rockrz** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 8:25 pm

Yeah, I can remember back in the late 80s when I went to work at this shop where they did alot of exhaust work, and they were teaching me to weld.

I worked at it a few days and when it finally dawned on me how to lay a pretty bead with the wire feed welder....I lifted my hood and for some strange reason I reached out and touched the weld I had just done with two fingers just seconds after it had quit glowing red.

Needless to say, I uttered a few word I can't repeat here!
But, I learnt my leason and I've never done that again...