The first time I did it, I dropped the driveshaft and the tank and did the cussing-contortionist method. It took me a loooong time, and was sore for 2 days afterward. Today I decided to pull the bed. Only 2-1/2 hours from the time the truck went into the garage until it left under its own power, and my body definitely thanked me. No cussing, either.
You'll need a buddy for this step, but it is a lot easier than it looks. Only 6 bolts for the bed, 6 bolts for the bumper. The rear tail light harness disconnects and stays with the bed. Don't forget to unscrew the ground straps:
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/j ... 300092.jpg
![Image](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/2001%20Chevy%20S-10/PA300090.jpg)
Put a floor jack under the tank. Take out only the four bolts from the driver's frame rail at the cab/bed line and the one bolt from the rear strap also at the driver's frame rail. In other words, the front skid and strap will still be bolted to the tank and the rear strap will be hanging from the crossmember. Lower the tank down about 4"-6" or so rotating it slightly toward the driveshaft. Leave it on the jack:
![Image](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/2001%20Chevy%20S-10/PA300095.jpg)
Take the pump in and out through the gap between the cab and crossmember:
![Image](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/2001%20Chevy%20S-10/PA300094.jpg)
Here's the difference in pumps. Aftermarket Airtex on left, OEM Delphi (new replacement) on right. Note the plastic bulge where the harness plugs into the motor. That is roughly the diameter of the motor, probably around 1-1/2" or so. The Airtex motor on the left is harder to make out, but it is tiny, not much bigger in diameter than a quarter! I'm really peeved that the parts guys even sell that POS!
![Image](http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h89/jayhawkclint/2001%20Chevy%20S-10/PA300098.jpg)